Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.

Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank
slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.



Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html

Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html


Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of
building one... he's "new".

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html


Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of
building one... he's "new".

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Alex - I was only trying to help him out with plans that he requested.
The same link has a more modest bench that might make you both happy.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1273396.html

Something real simple would be a solid core door on a set of sawhorses.
HTH Big John

"Big John" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank
slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.



Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html

I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a
bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest
wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver,
various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander,
drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures,
carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the
top at 34" tall.

I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole
ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a
result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as
it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with
as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a
drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought
is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long
bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get
neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work
surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without
hunkering over so much.

Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

Chris

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 01:55:29 GMT, "Jon" wrote:

any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter.

Do a lot of Google, and read "The Workbench Book" before you start.
There's a _lot_ of information out there, especially this newsgroup.

Benches are important. Expensive in materials too. But no-one ever
builds their "ultimate" bench - most people will re-work the old one
every few years, as they want more from it. So don't be afraid to make
something usable but basically nasty, if it gets you going.

What are you going to do with this bench ? Just woodwork, or other
stuff too ? Clean or dirty ?

What have you got to make it with ? How much skill? Have you got an
existing bench? - I wouldn't fancy chopping mortices without one!

What machinery have you got to work with ? A substantial table saw is a
great advantage for ripping the strips of a bench top to size.

What's your budget ? 2" solid maple top, or just two layers of 3/4"
plywood and a 4mm MDF top for wear ? (cheapest sensible option).

If you're a woodworker, what tools do you use ? Hand or power ? Hand
work puts a lot more force (especially sideways) into the frame and
needs something that resists these racking forces.

Just one bench ? It's worth having more than one, even if this means a
smaller bench. A benchtop that's always clean and clear is a great help
- find an adjoining table for storing small parts and tools "out of your
hand", or something as an assembly stand for the finished item. As these
aren't workbench surfaces, they don't need to be so substantial. But
hand woodworking needs a benchtop that's empty before you start.



Simple benches are the Workmutt. Get a genuine B&D, solidly-made model
but without the gimmicks. It's a terrible bench, but an excellent clamp.
Every home owner needs one.

Another simple bench is a pair of trestles, either portable and nesting,
or semi-permanent with a strong firedoor blank on top as a workbench.
Not a great bench, but easy and quick. Trestles are also great for big
work outdoors, when the weather is good. If you're in a cellar you'll be
doing a lot of ripping up big sheets of plywood, just to get them
downstairs easily.

Next up is a laminated plywood top. Two 3/4" plies and 4mm MDF or
Masonite on top. Stick the top down just with DS tape, so you can pry it
off and replace it every few years. Fit a hardwood trim strip around the
edge.

The frame can be construction-grade softwood; 4x4 legs and 2x4 framings.
Use screwed half-laps (easy to make) to hold it together. Make the end
frames as one panel each and _bolt_ the lengthways stretchers on, for
easy dismantling. Put diagonal bracing (or sheet plywood) across the end
panels and the rear, as bracing. Size all the screws to be twice what
you expect to need - there's a lot of racking force in a handwork bench
and you don't want it wobbling.

Don't put drawers and cupboards into a bench. You need that space fro
framing instead, so a useful cupboard needs to be

Then you're into laminated wood tops. These are probably best bought as
a one-piece. There are several makers doing maple, beech or oak and
they're not easy to make yourself until you have an established
workshop.

Think about vices. IMHO, there are three sorts worth having.

First off is a big cast iron face vice - as big and wide as you can
find, ideally an old English one like a Parkinson's, Paramo or Record.
Fit maple faces to it. Attach it firmly too, to the underframe rather
than the benchtop. Add extra framing to the underframe, if needed.

Secondly you need a lengthways clamp system, which holds timber for
planing. The best of these is a set of movable height-adjustable dogs,
ideally in two rows. Moving these is the real function of a tail vice.

If you aren't building a traditional European bench (Frank Klausz
http://www.workbenchdesign.net/frankbench.html or Tage Frid pattern)
then you don't get moving dogs. Moving dogs are _the_ way to clamp for
hand woodworking - they're why you'd bother with this complex style of
bench. In other cases (especially the plywood top) then drill two rows
of 3/4" round dogholes and buy some of the Veritas "Wonder Dogs" which
are a dog with a built in clamp screw.

Thirdly you need a metalworking vice. This should be a _small_ _East
European_ vice, possibly with a rotating base, and attached to a 3/4"
plywood sub-panel that attaches to your main workbench. If you have a
metalworking bench, then just use that and put a 6" jawed '50s Western
monster onto it. But if you're sharing a bench for two tasks, then go
with a demountable vice on a dirt-catcher panel that bolts quickly to
your bench (through the dog holes, or maybe held in the vice). It might
have a plywood front apron too. The Czechs, maybe the Poles, make the
best of these vices. Chinese are rubbish, with brittle castings. Get
some soft jaws for it too.

You also need clamps - lots of clamps. A thick 4" deep apron on the
front of a 2" solid bench is great, because you can cut the dog holes
into the apron, you can G clamp downwards and still get a clamp over the
apron, or you can G clamp onto the face of the apron. One of my other
benches (not my manufacture) has a 12" deep front apron that's a nice
thing for stability and vice mounting, but it spoils it entirely for
clamping.


Vices you don't need:

A Klausz/Frid style shoulder vice. They're great for holding assembled
drawers, no damn use at all for holding a shallow piece of timber. Go
for an iron face vice instead.

A patternmaker's tilting vice - Emmett style, or the £150 Taiwanese
copy. Nice things to have in the workshop, but they'll drive you batty
as an _only_ vice with their wobbling jaws.

A tail vice. Not much use for clamping stuff onto the end of a bench,
especially when you're tight for space.

A tail vice - the L-shaped Euro style, where the two ends of the frame
form a notch in the front edge of the bench. Now these are great if
you're building a Euro bench, but if you're not, then the iron vice will
do what you need.



If you're fitting out a workshop you also need wall cupboards, which in
a cellar should have doors on. Get yourself a load of good 1/2" WBP
plywood and a biscuit jointer, maybe birch plywood (lighter) for the
doors. You'll also want some sort of circular saw to slice it up -
either a decent table saw, or those trestles again with a handheld saw
and a decent plywood blade.

--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:

Any suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

No - I just don't believe there is such a thing. It's all too dependent
on what you're doing, and how you do it. Go with what's comfortable for
you.

My main bench is 36", which is "too tall" by the usual rules. I find it
perfect for plaing and chisel work, whether standing or sitting (which I
do a lot, for close work). I can also saw on this bench because I use
Japanese saws, but I find it unusably high for Western saws.

My cabinet saw, planer and second bench are all 33", which is about the
standard. I always found this bench too low - one reason for building
its successor.

The router table is 31", for convenient manufacture, and should maybe be
33" instead.

My assembly table is 27". This is definitely too low to work on, but
it's useful when there's a piece on top of it and I'm not trying to peer
over the top. For big pieces I might even put a pallet on the floor with
a sheet of plywood and a blanket.


--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
My main bench is 36", which is "too tall" by the usual rules. I find it
perfect for plaining and chisel work, whether standing or sitting (which I
do a lot, for close work). I can also saw on this bench because I use

I'd expect that unless you're especially tall in the upper body, sitting at
a 36" bench would be pretty close to eye level. That seems kind of awkward
to me. It's fine for seeing, but holding hands up to do everything at eye
level would get tiring extremely fast. I should know because I'm sitting all
the time.

"Tyke" wrote in message

I knew I would want the bench to be higher or lower for certain tasks and
so
when I saw this neat idea at a woodworking show, I took the plunge and
bought one.

My ideal bench is one I saw at a rehab hospital. 1 3/4" laminated Maple top,
solid metal legs on the ends, hand crank height adjustable. I seriously
considered buying one at the glorified price of $1700, but the only place I
could find them was in the USA and shipping up to Canada was quoted along
the lines of $300. Just too rich for my blood.

"Jon" wrote in message
...
Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.



This should get you started: http://www.plansnow.com/workbenchplans.html
Lots of different styles for different applications.

At the very least it will give you an idea why there are so many opinions on
this subject.

Here is where I was directed when I started looking:
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bench.html

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:

Any suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

No - I just don't believe there is such a thing. It's all too dependent
on what you're doing, and how you do it. Go with what's comfortable for
you.

But there is such a thing and that is why he is asking.

There is no one optimal "one height fits all", but there surely is an
optimal ergonomical height for everyone. The question is how do you
determine what that height is. Should be bench be x inches below the elbow?
Should it be x inches above the waist? Should the top overhand the support
by 6" or should it be flush? If hand planing a board, what height do you
like it in relationship to bending your back? What happens if it is too
high or two low?

If you have access to the next to last issue of WOOD magazine (June/July
2005), there are plans for a simple workbench. It uses standard 2X's and
your choice for a top. I used a solid core door covered with 1/8"
hardboard. It's rock solid and cost me less than $100.

"Jon" wrote in message
...
Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.

Had the same problem with 3 wheel bandsaw I used to have until it was
put onto a 12" box raising it for better visibility. Have read
recommendations that height of folder elbow is ideal for work surface.

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:


"Big John" wrote in message
roups.com...
Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank
slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.



Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html

I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a
bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest
wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver,
various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander,
drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures,
carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the
top at 34" tall.

I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole
ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a
result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as
it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with
as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a
drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought
is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long
bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get
neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work
surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without
hunkering over so much.

Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

Chris

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:

I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole
ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a
result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as
it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with
as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a
drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought
is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long
bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get
neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work
surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without
hunkering over so much.

Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

One of the woodworking mags a while back showed basically a mini
workbench that you could clamp to the top of the bench to raise it up.
My neck bothers me when using chisels on my bench for extended
periods, so I've been thinking about doing this. The problem with
actually building a raised portion into the bench is sometimes you'll
work on things that are bigger than the bench and it'll be in the way.
Getting the entire bench to raised up easily and yet still be sturdy
enough would be a challenge.


-Leuf

Upscale wrote:
I'd expect that unless you're especially tall in the upper body, sitting at
a 36" bench would be pretty close to eye level. That seems kind of awkward
to me. It's fine for seeing, but holding hands up to do everything at eye
level would get tiring extremely fast. I should know because I'm sitting all
the time.

I'm about average height for this group, 6'4", and when I sit my eys
level is 47". 36" sounds like a reasonable benchtop height, especially
since anything I put on it will end up being around 40" or so. YMMV

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
But there is such a thing and that is why he is asking.
There is no one optimal "one height fits all", but there surely is an
optimal ergonomical height for everyone. The question is how do you
determine what that height is. Should be bench be x inches below the elbow?
Should it be x inches above the waist? Should the top overhand the support
by 6" or should it be flush? If hand planing a board, what height do you
like it in relationship to bending your back? What happens if it is too
high or two low?

The OP definitely needs to read "The Workbench Book". The fitting of
bench to person is discussed fairly thoroughly as well as how it relates
to hand vs power tool use on the bench. rule of thumb is the height of
your palm held parallel to the ground at your side. I personally find
that way too low. I like a bench that is just under elbow high.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message

rule of thumb is the height of
your palm held parallel to the ground at your side. I personally find
that way too low. I like a bench that is just under elbow high.


My bench is 35" or about 3" higher than the palm Why 35"? Because that is
an inch below the router table next to it. When routing a piece it will go
over and not hit the bench.

It is an OK height. A few times I wish it was lower for assembly type work,
a few times I wished it higher for the same reason. For planing, it is
about right for me at 5'10"
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 12:24:26 -0400, Leuf
wrote:

One of the woodworking mags a while back showed basically a mini
workbench that you could clamp to the top of the bench to raise it up.

I'd ratherhave a tall bench, then stand on a box to lower it if I need
to. My feet ar emuch better at balancing than a sub-benchtop.

The link was very helpful for me. Thanks.

Art



Big John wrote:

AAvK wrote:


Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html



Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of
building one... he's "new".

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/



Alex - I was only trying to help him out with plans that he requested.
The same link has a more modest bench that might make you both happy.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1273396.html

Something real simple would be a solid core door on a set of sawhorses.
HTH Big John

The link was very helpful for me. Thanks.
Art


Actually that is a damn nice plan for free, so, last night I made it into
a total word.doc. Did some Photoshop work and put everything in
the right place.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"Tyke" wrote in message
...
It is common for the body to be more comfortable when performing different
tasks with the workpiece at different elevations.

I tend to have back problems if I bend over too much for too long.

One of my benches doubles as an outfeed table for my router table/drum
sander which are mounted next to each other. I chose the router table
height which felt right for my height and then raised the drum sander to
match.

I knew I would want the bench to be higher or lower for certain tasks and
so when I saw this neat idea at a woodworking show, I took the plunge and
bought one.

http://www.adjustabench.com/

It is very sturdy and a breeze to adjust up or down. Not cheap, but worth
it to save my back.

Dave Paine.



Thanks for the link & I've bookmarked the site. It is damn pricy but maybe I
could swing it by just getting the legs & building my own top. I have a
couple of good friends, both serious craftpersons, who messed up their neck
& backs by constantly hunkering over their work. Both had to have surgery
and now have lingering neurological problems. When I'm working, I often lose
track of time and will spend sometimes an hour or more hunched over.
Afterwards my neck and back just ache. I'm coming to the conclusion that
it's smarter for me to spend my meager funds on a really fancy bench that'll
save my spine than go through surgery or - worse - give up on my
sculptures/wood work.

Chris

"Chris Jung" wrote in message news:xzKCe.52150
it's smarter for me to spend my meager funds on a really fancy bench
that'll
save my spine than go through surgery or - worse - give up on my
sculptures/wood work.

Don't know about a really fancy bench, but if you're seriously concerned
about injury and comfort when doing your woodworking, I'd look into an
adjustable height bench.

Perfectly square top with many holes for the screw and dogs, and
the top adjusts different ways, a good view of one that is sold on
this site: http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp

A sculpter's bench, kind of like a really big single hinged "knee"
with a dimensionaly small but heavy platform on top, in "The
Workbench Book" on pages 202-203.

On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 09:24:45 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:

It is damn pricy but maybe I
could swing it by just getting the legs & building my own top.

I know a carver who has a bench mounted on a dentist's chair base.
There's a hydraulic lift to adjust the height.

Of course when I wanted to get rid of a dentist's chair, no-one would
take the thing away for free!

I've found a few good plans in Life Books (at the library). The one
I'm thinking about has a backboard bench, free-standing woodworker's
bench, carving bench, and a few others. Another good book is by
Landis, "The Workbench Book." Actually, I designed my own and used
ideas from several sources. The height of the surface to the floor is
something to think about.

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 01:55:29 GMT, "Jon" wrote:

Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.

I know a carver who has a bench mounted on a dentist's chair base.
There's a hydraulic lift to adjust the height.

Of course when I wanted to get rid of a dentist's chair, no-one would
take the thing away for free!


I hate to say it, but, just exatly that is also in the workbench book...
a dental chair based table on page 200. It's "pink".

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Jon (in ) said:

| I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank
| slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on
| and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
| imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very
| basic work bench for a beginner carpenter.

Jon...

I built a simple sturdy 6' bench that might serve your needs. It
requires an 8' 2x4 and two and a half 12' 2x12 boards. You'll need a
saw (I used a circular saw), a carpenter's square, a power drill, and
a pocket hole drilling jig. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig and
recommend it strongly. You'll want some #8 2-1/2" square drive washer
head screws and a #2 driver.

I've posted side and front view drawings to
news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking that show how the parts are cut
and assembled. If you'd like more info I can take photos and post
them; but the drawings may be sufficient.

Assembly time (working on the garage floor without a plan or
sawhorses) was under an hour.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Thanks, appreciate it.

"Big John" wrote in message
oups.com...

AAvK wrote:
Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post
on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John


http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html


Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities
of
building one... he's "new".

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Alex - I was only trying to help him out with plans that he requested.
The same link has a more modest bench that might make you both happy.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1273396.html

Something real simple would be a solid core door on a set of sawhorses.
HTH Big John

On Sat 13 Aug 2005 08:14:13a, "Tyke" wrote in
:


http://www.adjustabench.com/

It is very sturdy and a breeze to adjust up or down. Not cheap, but
worth it to save my back.

Dave Paine

Those guys had a booth at the Twin Cities woodworking show a couple years
back. I was impressed. Looked like a good, solid framework. You're limited
to the increments built in, but I'd be happy with that.

In one of Frank Klausz' videos he talks about bench height. It's supposed
to be just high enough so if you let your arm hang at your side fully
extended, then bring your hand up at 90 degrees, you hand should just rest
on the bench without bending or stretching your arm. So when I built my
bench, that's what I aimed for and it ended up about one inch higher than
that.

THEN, I find a transcript of an internet chat with Frank when I was looking
for something else, and in it he says he's building a higher bench because
he doesn't like bending over to get at stuff any more.

So all the people who said "It's up to you and the stuff you do and what
makes your feel comfortable" are right. My bench works fine for now but now
that I've used it for a while, I've got a pretty good idea how I'm going to
build the next one. :-) It just might have that adjustabench frame on it,
I'm not sure.

Dan wrote in
:

On Sat 13 Aug 2005 08:14:13a, "Tyke" wrote in
:


http://www.adjustabench.com/

It is very sturdy and a breeze to adjust up or down. Not cheap, but
worth it to save my back.

Dave Paine

Those guys had a booth at the Twin Cities woodworking show a couple
years back. I was impressed. Looked like a good, solid framework.
You're limited to the increments built in, but I'd be happy with that.

In one of Frank Klausz' videos he talks about bench height. It's
supposed to be just high enough so if you let your arm hang at your
side fully extended, then bring your hand up at 90 degrees, you hand
should just rest on the bench without bending or stretching your arm.
So when I built my bench, that's what I aimed for and it ended up
about one inch higher than that.

THEN, I find a transcript of an internet chat with Frank when I was
looking for something else, and in it he says he's building a higher
bench because he doesn't like bending over to get at stuff any more.

So all the people who said "It's up to you and the stuff you do and
what makes your feel comfortable" are right. My bench works fine for
now but now that I've used it for a while, I've got a pretty good idea
how I'm going to build the next one. :-) It just might have that
adjustabench frame on it, I'm not sure.


I need that Adjust-A-Shop, that flexes outwards when I need it, and
makes room for other stuff on the lot when I don't...

Patriarch

On Sat 23 Jul 2005 09:27:49p, Patriarch
wrote in . 97.136:

I need that Adjust-A-Shop, that flexes outwards when I need it, and
makes room for other stuff on the lot when I don't...

Oh, yeah. Like you wouldn't fill it up a month after you get it, and the
only setting you'll use is "Bigger".

Or, maybe you're not like me. :-)

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 01:55:29 GMT, "Jon" wrote:

Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.


A good one can be daunting, a simple one is really easy. The first
one I ever made was simple enough to describe in words, so I'll just
describe it.

Cut three 2" x 4"s as long as you want the bench to be, call these "A"
Cut four 2" x 4"s as wide as you want the bench to be, call these "B"
Cut four 2" x 4"s as tall as you want the bench to be, call these "C"

Lay two A's next to one another, then two B's on either end so they
make a rectangle. Put a framing square inside of each corner, then
screw them in place (two screws per corner works). Set the C's on end
in each corner, get them plumb using the framing square and drive a
couple of screws into them from the outside of the rectangle you made
in the last step to hold them in place.

Turn the whole thing on it's side, and put the last A across the back
two legs (about halfway between the top and the floor works) Check
for squareness again, then screw into place.

Turn the whole thing on it's end, and put one of the B's across the
side just like you did with the last step, repeat this for the other
side.

Flip the bench frame up onto it's legs, and cut a peice of plywood or
MDF to fit the top frame. Nail or screw the top into place.


This isn't a classy solution, but it makes a stable table, and
sometimes that's what you need to get started. You can always build a
better one later, after all. Mine is still good after 5 years or so,
and it's now the dedicated table for my lathe chisels and accessories
after making a better bench for myself.

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:


"Big John" wrote in message
roups.com...
Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank
slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.



Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html

I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a
bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest
wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver,
various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander,
drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures,
carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the
top at 34" tall.

I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole
ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a
result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as
it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with
as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a
drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought
is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long
bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get
neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work
surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without
hunkering over so much.

Try an ROS instead of a palm sander, it actually is a bit faster- and
bearing down doesn't seem to help much. You might be able to cut some
of your pain down a little by just letting the weight of the sander do
the work.

Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

I like to get the area where I'm working right at or a little above
elbow height, keeps me from slumping, and works pretty well for me.
Good light helps, too- that way you're not bending over and squinting
to see what you're doing.

Having built a bench for my workshop the main thing to do is make it out
of and 8 x 4 sheet of block board
but the most important thing is to have it on casters so it can be moved
around the shop
Put 4 locking caster on each end and two freewheeling ones in the middle
for different tasks and i would also make it the same height as your table
saw come in very handy when loading 8 x 4 sheets in to be cut down
cheers
connor

On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 13:54:56 +0100, Prometheus
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote:


"Big John" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all

I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank
slate.
I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and
miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the
imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic
work
bench for a beginner carpenter.
Thanks for any input.



Jon,
Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on
a gun cabinet.
HTH Big John

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html

I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about
making a
bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very
modest
wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver,
various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander,
drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures,
carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser
with the
top at 34" tall.

I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole
ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and
as a
result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding
as
it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over
with
as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander
and/or a
drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other
thought
is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make
long
bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get
neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work
surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without
hunkering over so much.

Try an ROS instead of a palm sander, it actually is a bit faster- and
bearing down doesn't seem to help much. You might be able to cut some
of your pain down a little by just letting the weight of the sander do
the work.

Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any
suggestions
for optimal working ergonomics?

I like to get the area where I'm working right at or a little above
elbow height, keeps me from slumping, and works pretty well for me.
Good light helps, too- that way you're not bending over and squinting
to see what you're doing.



--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I
applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a
Velcro pad.

On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 07:54:56 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:

Try an ROS instead of a palm sander, it actually is a bit faster- and
bearing down doesn't seem to help much. You might be able to cut some
of your pain down a little by just letting the weight of the sander do
the work.

On Sun 24 Jul 2005 01:27:12p, nospambob wrote in
:

I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I
applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a
Velcro pad.

Good Lord. I've been using mine for a couple years and applying what I
thought was pretty hard pressure now and then, and haven't had any trouble
with the pad.

Just how hard were you pushing that thing, and what were you doing?

"Dan" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun 24 Jul 2005 01:27:12p, nospambob wrote in
:

I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I
applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a
Velcro pad.

Good Lord. I've been using mine for a couple years and applying what I
thought was pretty hard pressure now and then, and haven't had any trouble
with the pad.

Just how hard were you pushing that thing, and what were you doing?

One of the magazines just had an article about using ROS and pushing is
defeating the workings and takes longer. I can't imagine enough to melt the
Velcro.

On Mon 25 Jul 2005 09:24:56p, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
:

One of the magazines just had an article about using ROS and pushing
is defeating the workings and takes longer.

I came to that same conclusion. Heavy pressure doesn't seem to do any
better than just guiding it around the piece.

I can't imagine enough to
melt the Velcro.

Seems like that much heat oughta make smoke. :-)

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
One of the magazines just had an article about using ROS and pushing is
defeating the workings and takes longer. I can't imagine enough to melt the
Velcro.

I think you may be asking the wrong question. "Hard" is a relative
thing. I'm 6'4" 265 and haven't have that problem, Bob, HOW BIG ARE
YOU? %-)

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use: daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

Bought it 1993 and sanding wide glue up panel made from several narrow
boards. Didn't know that sandpaper has a relatively short life and
was trying to get more use from discs that were gone. Our DIL is
learning woodworking and uses discs that our son has put back in the
pile and she presses down making the same mistake I made. Oh well,
....

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 01:48:06 GMT, Dan wrote:

On Sun 24 Jul 2005 01:27:12p, nospambob wrote in
:

I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I
applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a
Velcro pad.

Good Lord. I've been using mine for a couple years and applying what I
thought was pretty hard pressure now and then, and haven't had any trouble
with the pad.

Just how hard were you pushing that thing, and what were you doing?