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Plans for bench
Hi all
I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. |
Hi all
I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html |
Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of building one... he's "new". -- Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/ |
AAvK wrote: Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of building one... he's "new". -- Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/ Alex - I was only trying to help him out with plans that he requested. The same link has a more modest bench that might make you both happy. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1273396.html Something real simple would be a solid core door on a set of sawhorses. HTH Big John |
"Big John" wrote in message oups.com... Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver, various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander, drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures, carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the top at 34" tall. I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without hunkering over so much. Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? Chris |
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 01:55:29 GMT, "Jon" wrote:
any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Do a lot of Google, and read "The Workbench Book" before you start. There's a _lot_ of information out there, especially this newsgroup. Benches are important. Expensive in materials too. But no-one ever builds their "ultimate" bench - most people will re-work the old one every few years, as they want more from it. So don't be afraid to make something usable but basically nasty, if it gets you going. What are you going to do with this bench ? Just woodwork, or other stuff too ? Clean or dirty ? What have you got to make it with ? How much skill? Have you got an existing bench? - I wouldn't fancy chopping mortices without one! What machinery have you got to work with ? A substantial table saw is a great advantage for ripping the strips of a bench top to size. What's your budget ? 2" solid maple top, or just two layers of 3/4" plywood and a 4mm MDF top for wear ? (cheapest sensible option). If you're a woodworker, what tools do you use ? Hand or power ? Hand work puts a lot more force (especially sideways) into the frame and needs something that resists these racking forces. Just one bench ? It's worth having more than one, even if this means a smaller bench. A benchtop that's always clean and clear is a great help - find an adjoining table for storing small parts and tools "out of your hand", or something as an assembly stand for the finished item. As these aren't workbench surfaces, they don't need to be so substantial. But hand woodworking needs a benchtop that's empty before you start. Simple benches are the Workmutt. Get a genuine B&D, solidly-made model but without the gimmicks. It's a terrible bench, but an excellent clamp. Every home owner needs one. Another simple bench is a pair of trestles, either portable and nesting, or semi-permanent with a strong firedoor blank on top as a workbench. Not a great bench, but easy and quick. Trestles are also great for big work outdoors, when the weather is good. If you're in a cellar you'll be doing a lot of ripping up big sheets of plywood, just to get them downstairs easily. Next up is a laminated plywood top. Two 3/4" plies and 4mm MDF or Masonite on top. Stick the top down just with DS tape, so you can pry it off and replace it every few years. Fit a hardwood trim strip around the edge. The frame can be construction-grade softwood; 4x4 legs and 2x4 framings. Use screwed half-laps (easy to make) to hold it together. Make the end frames as one panel each and _bolt_ the lengthways stretchers on, for easy dismantling. Put diagonal bracing (or sheet plywood) across the end panels and the rear, as bracing. Size all the screws to be twice what you expect to need - there's a lot of racking force in a handwork bench and you don't want it wobbling. Don't put drawers and cupboards into a bench. You need that space fro framing instead, so a useful cupboard needs to be Then you're into laminated wood tops. These are probably best bought as a one-piece. There are several makers doing maple, beech or oak and they're not easy to make yourself until you have an established workshop. Think about vices. IMHO, there are three sorts worth having. First off is a big cast iron face vice - as big and wide as you can find, ideally an old English one like a Parkinson's, Paramo or Record. Fit maple faces to it. Attach it firmly too, to the underframe rather than the benchtop. Add extra framing to the underframe, if needed. Secondly you need a lengthways clamp system, which holds timber for planing. The best of these is a set of movable height-adjustable dogs, ideally in two rows. Moving these is the real function of a tail vice. If you aren't building a traditional European bench (Frank Klausz http://www.workbenchdesign.net/frankbench.html or Tage Frid pattern) then you don't get moving dogs. Moving dogs are _the_ way to clamp for hand woodworking - they're why you'd bother with this complex style of bench. In other cases (especially the plywood top) then drill two rows of 3/4" round dogholes and buy some of the Veritas "Wonder Dogs" which are a dog with a built in clamp screw. Thirdly you need a metalworking vice. This should be a _small_ _East European_ vice, possibly with a rotating base, and attached to a 3/4" plywood sub-panel that attaches to your main workbench. If you have a metalworking bench, then just use that and put a 6" jawed '50s Western monster onto it. But if you're sharing a bench for two tasks, then go with a demountable vice on a dirt-catcher panel that bolts quickly to your bench (through the dog holes, or maybe held in the vice). It might have a plywood front apron too. The Czechs, maybe the Poles, make the best of these vices. Chinese are rubbish, with brittle castings. Get some soft jaws for it too. You also need clamps - lots of clamps. A thick 4" deep apron on the front of a 2" solid bench is great, because you can cut the dog holes into the apron, you can G clamp downwards and still get a clamp over the apron, or you can G clamp onto the face of the apron. One of my other benches (not my manufacture) has a 12" deep front apron that's a nice thing for stability and vice mounting, but it spoils it entirely for clamping. Vices you don't need: A Klausz/Frid style shoulder vice. They're great for holding assembled drawers, no damn use at all for holding a shallow piece of timber. Go for an iron face vice instead. A patternmaker's tilting vice - Emmett style, or the £150 Taiwanese copy. Nice things to have in the workshop, but they'll drive you batty as an _only_ vice with their wobbling jaws. A tail vice. Not much use for clamping stuff onto the end of a bench, especially when you're tight for space. A tail vice - the L-shaped Euro style, where the two ends of the frame form a notch in the front edge of the bench. Now these are great if you're building a Euro bench, but if you're not, then the iron vice will do what you need. If you're fitting out a workshop you also need wall cupboards, which in a cellar should have doors on. Get yourself a load of good 1/2" WBP plywood and a biscuit jointer, maybe birch plywood (lighter) for the doors. You'll also want some sort of circular saw to slice it up - either a decent table saw, or those trestles again with a handheld saw and a decent plywood blade. -- Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet. |
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote: Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? No - I just don't believe there is such a thing. It's all too dependent on what you're doing, and how you do it. Go with what's comfortable for you. My main bench is 36", which is "too tall" by the usual rules. I find it perfect for plaing and chisel work, whether standing or sitting (which I do a lot, for close work). I can also saw on this bench because I use Japanese saws, but I find it unusably high for Western saws. My cabinet saw, planer and second bench are all 33", which is about the standard. I always found this bench too low - one reason for building its successor. The router table is 31", for convenient manufacture, and should maybe be 33" instead. My assembly table is 27". This is definitely too low to work on, but it's useful when there's a piece on top of it and I'm not trying to peer over the top. For big pieces I might even put a pallet on the floor with a sheet of plywood and a blanket. -- Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet. |
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
My main bench is 36", which is "too tall" by the usual rules. I find it perfect for plaining and chisel work, whether standing or sitting (which I do a lot, for close work). I can also saw on this bench because I use I'd expect that unless you're especially tall in the upper body, sitting at a 36" bench would be pretty close to eye level. That seems kind of awkward to me. It's fine for seeing, but holding hands up to do everything at eye level would get tiring extremely fast. I should know because I'm sitting all the time. |
"Tyke" wrote in message
I knew I would want the bench to be higher or lower for certain tasks and so when I saw this neat idea at a woodworking show, I took the plunge and bought one. My ideal bench is one I saw at a rehab hospital. 1 3/4" laminated Maple top, solid metal legs on the ends, hand crank height adjustable. I seriously considered buying one at the glorified price of $1700, but the only place I could find them was in the USA and shipping up to Canada was quoted along the lines of $300. Just too rich for my blood. |
"Jon" wrote in message ... Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. This should get you started: http://www.plansnow.com/workbenchplans.html Lots of different styles for different applications. At the very least it will give you an idea why there are so many opinions on this subject. Here is where I was directed when I started looking: http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bench.html |
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung" wrote: Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? No - I just don't believe there is such a thing. It's all too dependent on what you're doing, and how you do it. Go with what's comfortable for you. But there is such a thing and that is why he is asking. There is no one optimal "one height fits all", but there surely is an optimal ergonomical height for everyone. The question is how do you determine what that height is. Should be bench be x inches below the elbow? Should it be x inches above the waist? Should the top overhand the support by 6" or should it be flush? If hand planing a board, what height do you like it in relationship to bending your back? What happens if it is too high or two low? |
If you have access to the next to last issue of WOOD magazine (June/July
2005), there are plans for a simple workbench. It uses standard 2X's and your choice for a top. I used a solid core door covered with 1/8" hardboard. It's rock solid and cost me less than $100. "Jon" wrote in message ... Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. |
Had the same problem with 3 wheel bandsaw I used to have until it was
put onto a 12" box raising it for better visibility. Have read recommendations that height of folder elbow is ideal for work surface. On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung" wrote: "Big John" wrote in message roups.com... Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver, various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander, drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures, carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the top at 34" tall. I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without hunkering over so much. Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? Chris |
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote: I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without hunkering over so much. Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? One of the woodworking mags a while back showed basically a mini workbench that you could clamp to the top of the bench to raise it up. My neck bothers me when using chisels on my bench for extended periods, so I've been thinking about doing this. The problem with actually building a raised portion into the bench is sometimes you'll work on things that are bigger than the bench and it'll be in the way. Getting the entire bench to raised up easily and yet still be sturdy enough would be a challenge. -Leuf |
Upscale wrote:
I'd expect that unless you're especially tall in the upper body, sitting at a 36" bench would be pretty close to eye level. That seems kind of awkward to me. It's fine for seeing, but holding hands up to do everything at eye level would get tiring extremely fast. I should know because I'm sitting all the time. I'm about average height for this group, 6'4", and when I sit my eys level is 47". 36" sounds like a reasonable benchtop height, especially since anything I put on it will end up being around 40" or so. YMMV Dave in Fairfax -- reply-to doesn't work use: daveldr at att dot net American Association of Woodturners http://www.woodturner.org Capital Area Woodturners http://www.capwoodturners.org/ PATINA http://www.patinatools.org |
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
But there is such a thing and that is why he is asking. There is no one optimal "one height fits all", but there surely is an optimal ergonomical height for everyone. The question is how do you determine what that height is. Should be bench be x inches below the elbow? Should it be x inches above the waist? Should the top overhand the support by 6" or should it be flush? If hand planing a board, what height do you like it in relationship to bending your back? What happens if it is too high or two low? The OP definitely needs to read "The Workbench Book". The fitting of bench to person is discussed fairly thoroughly as well as how it relates to hand vs power tool use on the bench. rule of thumb is the height of your palm held parallel to the ground at your side. I personally find that way too low. I like a bench that is just under elbow high. Dave in Fairfax -- reply-to doesn't work use: daveldr at att dot net American Association of Woodturners http://www.woodturner.org Capital Area Woodturners http://www.capwoodturners.org/ PATINA http://www.patinatools.org |
"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message rule of thumb is the height of your palm held parallel to the ground at your side. I personally find that way too low. I like a bench that is just under elbow high. My bench is 35" or about 3" higher than the palm Why 35"? Because that is an inch below the router table next to it. When routing a piece it will go over and not hit the bench. It is an OK height. A few times I wish it was lower for assembly type work, a few times I wished it higher for the same reason. For planing, it is about right for me at 5'10" -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ |
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 12:24:26 -0400, Leuf
wrote: One of the woodworking mags a while back showed basically a mini workbench that you could clamp to the top of the bench to raise it up. I'd ratherhave a tall bench, then stand on a box to lower it if I need to. My feet ar emuch better at balancing than a sub-benchtop. |
The link was very helpful for me. Thanks.
Art Big John wrote: AAvK wrote: Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of building one... he's "new". -- Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/ Alex - I was only trying to help him out with plans that he requested. The same link has a more modest bench that might make you both happy. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1273396.html Something real simple would be a solid core door on a set of sawhorses. HTH Big John |
The link was very helpful for me. Thanks. Art Actually that is a damn nice plan for free, so, last night I made it into a total word.doc. Did some Photoshop work and put everything in the right place. -- Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/ |
"Tyke" wrote in message ... It is common for the body to be more comfortable when performing different tasks with the workpiece at different elevations. I tend to have back problems if I bend over too much for too long. One of my benches doubles as an outfeed table for my router table/drum sander which are mounted next to each other. I chose the router table height which felt right for my height and then raised the drum sander to match. I knew I would want the bench to be higher or lower for certain tasks and so when I saw this neat idea at a woodworking show, I took the plunge and bought one. http://www.adjustabench.com/ It is very sturdy and a breeze to adjust up or down. Not cheap, but worth it to save my back. Dave Paine. Thanks for the link & I've bookmarked the site. It is damn pricy but maybe I could swing it by just getting the legs & building my own top. I have a couple of good friends, both serious craftpersons, who messed up their neck & backs by constantly hunkering over their work. Both had to have surgery and now have lingering neurological problems. When I'm working, I often lose track of time and will spend sometimes an hour or more hunched over. Afterwards my neck and back just ache. I'm coming to the conclusion that it's smarter for me to spend my meager funds on a really fancy bench that'll save my spine than go through surgery or - worse - give up on my sculptures/wood work. Chris |
"Chris Jung" wrote in message news:xzKCe.52150
it's smarter for me to spend my meager funds on a really fancy bench that'll save my spine than go through surgery or - worse - give up on my sculptures/wood work. Don't know about a really fancy bench, but if you're seriously concerned about injury and comfort when doing your woodworking, I'd look into an adjustable height bench. |
Perfectly square top with many holes for the screw and dogs, and the top adjusts different ways, a good view of one that is sold on this site: http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp A sculpter's bench, kind of like a really big single hinged "knee" with a dimensionaly small but heavy platform on top, in "The Workbench Book" on pages 202-203. |
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 09:24:45 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote: It is damn pricy but maybe I could swing it by just getting the legs & building my own top. I know a carver who has a bench mounted on a dentist's chair base. There's a hydraulic lift to adjust the height. Of course when I wanted to get rid of a dentist's chair, no-one would take the thing away for free! |
I've found a few good plans in Life Books (at the library). The one
I'm thinking about has a backboard bench, free-standing woodworker's bench, carving bench, and a few others. Another good book is by Landis, "The Workbench Book." Actually, I designed my own and used ideas from several sources. The height of the surface to the floor is something to think about. On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 01:55:29 GMT, "Jon" wrote: Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. |
I know a carver who has a bench mounted on a dentist's chair base. There's a hydraulic lift to adjust the height. Of course when I wanted to get rid of a dentist's chair, no-one would take the thing away for free! I hate to say it, but, just exatly that is also in the workbench book... a dental chair based table on page 200. It's "pink". -- Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/ |
Jon (in ) said:
| I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank | slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on | and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the | imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very | basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Jon... I built a simple sturdy 6' bench that might serve your needs. It requires an 8' 2x4 and two and a half 12' 2x12 boards. You'll need a saw (I used a circular saw), a carpenter's square, a power drill, and a pocket hole drilling jig. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig and recommend it strongly. You'll want some #8 2-1/2" square drive washer head screws and a #2 driver. I've posted side and front view drawings to news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking that show how the parts are cut and assembled. If you'd like more info I can take photos and post them; but the drawings may be sufficient. Assembly time (working on the garage floor without a plan or sawhorses) was under an hour. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html |
Thanks, appreciate it.
"Big John" wrote in message oups.com... AAvK wrote: Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html Yeah right, if he wants a classic woodworkers bench and the complexities of building one... he's "new". -- Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/ Alex - I was only trying to help him out with plans that he requested. The same link has a more modest bench that might make you both happy. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1273396.html Something real simple would be a solid core door on a set of sawhorses. HTH Big John |
On Sat 13 Aug 2005 08:14:13a, "Tyke" wrote in
: http://www.adjustabench.com/ It is very sturdy and a breeze to adjust up or down. Not cheap, but worth it to save my back. Dave Paine Those guys had a booth at the Twin Cities woodworking show a couple years back. I was impressed. Looked like a good, solid framework. You're limited to the increments built in, but I'd be happy with that. In one of Frank Klausz' videos he talks about bench height. It's supposed to be just high enough so if you let your arm hang at your side fully extended, then bring your hand up at 90 degrees, you hand should just rest on the bench without bending or stretching your arm. So when I built my bench, that's what I aimed for and it ended up about one inch higher than that. THEN, I find a transcript of an internet chat with Frank when I was looking for something else, and in it he says he's building a higher bench because he doesn't like bending over to get at stuff any more. So all the people who said "It's up to you and the stuff you do and what makes your feel comfortable" are right. My bench works fine for now but now that I've used it for a while, I've got a pretty good idea how I'm going to build the next one. :-) It just might have that adjustabench frame on it, I'm not sure. |
Dan wrote in
: On Sat 13 Aug 2005 08:14:13a, "Tyke" wrote in : http://www.adjustabench.com/ It is very sturdy and a breeze to adjust up or down. Not cheap, but worth it to save my back. Dave Paine Those guys had a booth at the Twin Cities woodworking show a couple years back. I was impressed. Looked like a good, solid framework. You're limited to the increments built in, but I'd be happy with that. In one of Frank Klausz' videos he talks about bench height. It's supposed to be just high enough so if you let your arm hang at your side fully extended, then bring your hand up at 90 degrees, you hand should just rest on the bench without bending or stretching your arm. So when I built my bench, that's what I aimed for and it ended up about one inch higher than that. THEN, I find a transcript of an internet chat with Frank when I was looking for something else, and in it he says he's building a higher bench because he doesn't like bending over to get at stuff any more. So all the people who said "It's up to you and the stuff you do and what makes your feel comfortable" are right. My bench works fine for now but now that I've used it for a while, I've got a pretty good idea how I'm going to build the next one. :-) It just might have that adjustabench frame on it, I'm not sure. I need that Adjust-A-Shop, that flexes outwards when I need it, and makes room for other stuff on the lot when I don't... Patriarch |
On Sat 23 Jul 2005 09:27:49p, Patriarch
wrote in . 97.136: I need that Adjust-A-Shop, that flexes outwards when I need it, and makes room for other stuff on the lot when I don't... Oh, yeah. Like you wouldn't fill it up a month after you get it, and the only setting you'll use is "Bigger". Or, maybe you're not like me. :-) |
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 01:55:29 GMT, "Jon" wrote:
Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. A good one can be daunting, a simple one is really easy. The first one I ever made was simple enough to describe in words, so I'll just describe it. Cut three 2" x 4"s as long as you want the bench to be, call these "A" Cut four 2" x 4"s as wide as you want the bench to be, call these "B" Cut four 2" x 4"s as tall as you want the bench to be, call these "C" Lay two A's next to one another, then two B's on either end so they make a rectangle. Put a framing square inside of each corner, then screw them in place (two screws per corner works). Set the C's on end in each corner, get them plumb using the framing square and drive a couple of screws into them from the outside of the rectangle you made in the last step to hold them in place. Turn the whole thing on it's side, and put the last A across the back two legs (about halfway between the top and the floor works) Check for squareness again, then screw into place. Turn the whole thing on it's end, and put one of the B's across the side just like you did with the last step, repeat this for the other side. Flip the bench frame up onto it's legs, and cut a peice of plywood or MDF to fit the top frame. Nail or screw the top into place. This isn't a classy solution, but it makes a stable table, and sometimes that's what you need to get started. You can always build a better one later, after all. Mine is still good after 5 years or so, and it's now the dedicated table for my lathe chisels and accessories after making a better bench for myself. |
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung"
wrote: "Big John" wrote in message roups.com... Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver, various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander, drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures, carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the top at 34" tall. I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without hunkering over so much. Try an ROS instead of a palm sander, it actually is a bit faster- and bearing down doesn't seem to help much. You might be able to cut some of your pain down a little by just letting the weight of the sander do the work. Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? I like to get the area where I'm working right at or a little above elbow height, keeps me from slumping, and works pretty well for me. Good light helps, too- that way you're not bending over and squinting to see what you're doing. |
Having built a bench for my workshop the main thing to do is make it out
of and 8 x 4 sheet of block board but the most important thing is to have it on casters so it can be moved around the shop Put 4 locking caster on each end and two freewheeling ones in the middle for different tasks and i would also make it the same height as your table saw come in very handy when loading 8 x 4 sheets in to be cut down cheers connor On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 13:54:56 +0100, Prometheus wrote: On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 10:58:34 GMT, "Chris Jung" wrote: "Big John" wrote in message oups.com... Hi all I just moved into a new house and the basement is basically a blank slate. I would like to make a bench approx 6ft long for working on and miscellaneous things. I am not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so I am wondering if anyone has any plans for a very basic work bench for a beginner carpenter. Thanks for any input. Jon, Here is a link (thanks to JOAT) I found while looking at JOAT's post on a gun cabinet. HTH Big John http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...e/1302961.html I'm not Jon, but thanks for posting the plans as I'm thinking about making a bench or modifying my current set-up. I'm a sculptor who has a very modest wood working set-up (Foredom flexible shaft, reciprocating power carver, various dremels, cheesy no-name 9" bandsaw, dust collector, palm sander, drill, lots of files, rifflers and handsaws) to build bases & armatures, carve details and sand. My "bench" is a big, ugly but solid dresser with the top at 34" tall. I'm curious about the typical height of workbenches and the whole ergonomics of woodworking. I find that I tend to hunch over my work and as a result get sore at the base of my neck/shoulders. It worse with sanding as it's my least favorite activity and I tend to bear down to get it over with as soon as possible. I'm toying with getting a dremel detail sander and/or a drill press with a sanding drum to see if that would help. My other thought is to possibly raise the work surface so that it's higher (perhaps make long bench with one part taller than normal?). I've noticed that I never get neck/shoulder pain when using my bandsaw. I think it's because the work surface there is higher and I'm able to look closely at my work without hunkering over so much. Try an ROS instead of a palm sander, it actually is a bit faster- and bearing down doesn't seem to help much. You might be able to cut some of your pain down a little by just letting the weight of the sander do the work. Does anyone else get neck/upper back pain from wood working? Any suggestions for optimal working ergonomics? I like to get the area where I'm working right at or a little above elbow height, keeps me from slumping, and works pretty well for me. Good light helps, too- that way you're not bending over and squinting to see what you're doing. -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I
applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a Velcro pad. On Sun, 24 Jul 2005 07:54:56 -0500, Prometheus wrote: Try an ROS instead of a palm sander, it actually is a bit faster- and bearing down doesn't seem to help much. You might be able to cut some of your pain down a little by just letting the weight of the sander do the work. |
On Sun 24 Jul 2005 01:27:12p, nospambob wrote in
: I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a Velcro pad. Good Lord. I've been using mine for a couple years and applying what I thought was pretty hard pressure now and then, and haven't had any trouble with the pad. Just how hard were you pushing that thing, and what were you doing? |
"Dan" wrote in message .. . On Sun 24 Jul 2005 01:27:12p, nospambob wrote in : I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a Velcro pad. Good Lord. I've been using mine for a couple years and applying what I thought was pretty hard pressure now and then, and haven't had any trouble with the pad. Just how hard were you pushing that thing, and what were you doing? One of the magazines just had an article about using ROS and pushing is defeating the workings and takes longer. I can't imagine enough to melt the Velcro. |
On Mon 25 Jul 2005 09:24:56p, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
: One of the magazines just had an article about using ROS and pushing is defeating the workings and takes longer. I came to that same conclusion. Heavy pressure doesn't seem to do any better than just guiding it around the piece. I can't imagine enough to melt the Velcro. Seems like that much heat oughta make smoke. :-) |
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
One of the magazines just had an article about using ROS and pushing is defeating the workings and takes longer. I can't imagine enough to melt the Velcro. I think you may be asking the wrong question. "Hard" is a relative thing. I'm 6'4" 265 and haven't have that problem, Bob, HOW BIG ARE YOU? %-) Dave in Fairfax -- reply-to doesn't work use: daveldr at att dot net American Association of Woodturners http://www.woodturner.org Capital Area Woodturners http://www.capwoodturners.org/ PATINA http://www.patinatools.org |
Bought it 1993 and sanding wide glue up panel made from several narrow
boards. Didn't know that sandpaper has a relatively short life and was trying to get more use from discs that were gone. Our DIL is learning woodworking and uses discs that our son has put back in the pile and she presses down making the same mistake I made. Oh well, .... On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 01:48:06 GMT, Dan wrote: On Sun 24 Jul 2005 01:27:12p, nospambob wrote in : I replaced the pad of the PC333 ROS shortly after buying it because I applied pressure while sanding, mistake. Heat melts the loops on a Velcro pad. Good Lord. I've been using mine for a couple years and applying what I thought was pretty hard pressure now and then, and haven't had any trouble with the pad. Just how hard were you pushing that thing, and what were you doing? |
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