It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

My Delta tool rest extension snapped like that. They sent me another,
also cast iron. I did have a couple of steel tool rests made, one
straight and one S shaped for bowls. I don't trust cast iron for that
type of use.

william kossack wrote:

It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

--

Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
............................................
May your life be filled with experiences.


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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Same thing happened, twice, to my Grizzly lathe a few years ago. Once was
the toolrest and the other time was the banjo. I've had many many things
break, strip, and breakdown with that lathe. Just poor quality. I see this
same type of problem across their entire line of lathes all the time. It's
not just an isolated problem and is the reason I can never recommend a
Grizzly lathe until they change their quality and some design issues.

Don't bother with this lathe anymore. Use it as a buffing, sanding station
or some other light-duty tool.

- Andrew




"william kossack" wrote in message
news:S51Mb.18800$8H.49147@attbi_s03...
It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just
snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

When you think about it tool rests are subjected to tremendous loads when a
heavy blank is mounted on a lathe and heavy cuts are being made.

I think it is important that we not try to use our lathes beyond their
working capacity. This "working capacity" is not always so easy to
determine.

However; just because a piece of wood will fit between the centers and spin
without bumping the bed doesn't mean the lathe can actually handle that size
blank. Listen to your lathe. It will tell you when you are pushing the
limits by excessive vibrations or its making strange noises. When it is
apparent that you are exceeding your lathes' limits........use slower speeds
and lighter cuts.........switch to a smaller blank........or get a heavier
lathe.

Barry


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:S51Mb.18800$8H.49147@attbi_s03...
It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just
snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

Cast iron can be brazed by a local welding shop and your tool rest can
be made as good as new if done properly. A reinforcing bar may have to
be added on the underside. It wouldn't cost much to give it a try.

Peace ~ Sir Edgar

Understood but I was turning slow (shoot maybe 100 rpm) with light cuts
as I was trying to round it. The problem with tthe grizzly is that you
have to take light cuts because the motor is so weak. The stand is also
so light that any amount of speed with an unballanced object makes the
entire thing shake and try and dance. I've used this lathe for about a
year and a half and turned a couple pieces each month that I've had it
except when Grizzly had the headstock for 2 months to replace the motor.

One of the reasons I've been looking at the Nova is that the Jet and
Delta lathes in the $5-800 range turn too fast for turning unballanced
pieces of wood. It seems that you have to go to a lathe around the
cost of the NOVA DVR to get a slow enough turning speed.

I try my best to trim and shape a blank with either my little electric
chain saw or my bandsaw but there is always something left so it is not
perfectly round. I would typically work for an hour or more rounding
out the chunck before increasing the speed and starting to have fun with
it. All the time watching how much of a bight I'm taking because the
Grizzly would bolg down too easily


Barry N. Turner wrote:

When you think about it tool rests are subjected to tremendous loads when a
heavy blank is mounted on a lathe and heavy cuts are being made.

I think it is important that we not try to use our lathes beyond their
working capacity. This "working capacity" is not always so easy to
determine.

However; just because a piece of wood will fit between the centers and spin
without bumping the bed doesn't mean the lathe can actually handle that size
blank. Listen to your lathe. It will tell you when you are pushing the
limits by excessive vibrations or its making strange noises. When it is
apparent that you are exceeding your lathes' limits........use slower speeds
and lighter cuts.........switch to a smaller blank........or get a heavier
lathe.

Barry


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:S51Mb.18800$8H.49147@attbi_s03...


It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just


snapped.


I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

Sir Edgar wrote: Cast iron can be brazed by a local welding shop and your
tool rest can be made as good as new if done properly. A reinforcing bar may
have to be added on the underside
^^^^^^^^^^^
Or it can be arc-welded, using nickel rod, very easily.
The shape of a tool rest is very forgiving--don't need to worry about
preheat and post-cooling. As far as reinforcement is concerned, I would
actually rather have my toolrest break than have the handle of my gouge come
up undere my chin and smite me.

However, I'm kind of a liar too, because the replacement toolrest I made is
solid steel.

Chuck wrote:

No refutation of what you are saying, Barry, but I can tell you this,
with my Jet mini, those dimensions do describe the working capacity
of the lathe. I've never been able to put a piece of wood on there
that it wouldn't turn, and the only thing that has ever broken, (and
believe me, I've had the MOTHER of all catches before) has been the
set screw knob for the quill, which I replaced with a plain piece of
1/4-20 threaded rod with a knob. Quality is a factor, IMO.

I was thinking just the same, actually. I'm still a very new turner, and I
really seriously suck at this, but I haven't been able to faze that stout
little sucker with any of my many mishaps.

I don't have a chainsaw or bandsaw, so the most reasonable way I have to
true something up is to stick it on the lathe and whack at it until it's
round. I haven't lost anything since that first day. It can spin
incredibly out of balance hunks of wood while vibrating many times less
than my bench grinder.

I do have about 80 pounds of counterweight on the bottom of the lathe stand,
to lower the center of gravity and make it less tippy, but it doesn't feel
like it needs anything more.

The only bad thing IMHO about this lathe is that I will never be happy with
a full-sized lathe that isn't up to the same level of quality, and that
means something spendy.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:38:53 -0600, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

I think it is important that we not try to use our lathes beyond their
working capacity. This "working capacity" is not always so easy to
determine.

However; just because a piece of wood will fit between the centers and spin
without bumping the bed doesn't mean the lathe can actually handle that size
blank.

No refutation of what you are saying, Barry, but I can tell you this,
with my Jet mini, those dimensions do describe the working capacity
of the lathe. I've never been able to put a piece of wood on there
that it wouldn't turn, and the only thing that has ever broken, (and
believe me, I've had the MOTHER of all catches before) has been the
set screw knob for the quill, which I replaced with a plain piece of
1/4-20 threaded rod with a knob. Quality is a factor, IMO.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

I just remembered something else that might be worth mentioning. I broke a
cast iron toolrest on one of my earlier lathes, and welded it together at a
135 degree angle, to make it more useful around or inside. Looking down on
it: __/

Grizz tools the school bought with a grant have all suffered from poorly
annealed castings. They break, and the crystal size is enormous, where
fine is considered best. Company is willing to send spares, but they
usually have to be flattened, cleaned of flashing, or some compensation made
for their own poor beginnings.

"AHilton" wrote in message
...
Same thing happened, twice, to my Grizzly lathe a few years ago. Once was
the toolrest and the other time was the banjo. I've had many many things
break, strip, and breakdown with that lathe. Just poor quality. I see
this
same type of problem across their entire line of lathes all the time.
It's
not just an isolated problem and is the reason I can never recommend a
Grizzly lathe until they change their quality and some design issues.

Don't bother with this lathe anymore. Use it as a buffing, sanding
station
or some other light-duty tool.

- Andrew




"william kossack" wrote in message
news:S51Mb.18800$8H.49147@attbi_s03...
It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just
snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

Ol' Blue, my Delta 46-204, has a lowest uncountershafted speed of ~500, and
a capacity of 12" over the bed. Fortunately he is also belt driven, and
when roughing a lumpy blank, I can slow him down by keeping the tool in
contact with as much wood as possible.

I do not cut with the nose of the gouge up, however, but running along the
toolrest toward the tailstock. That way my bevel can really rub what's
fresh cut, slowing the whole thing down, versus bumping and jumping and
possibly tipping in for a catch.

I also move the toolrest in toward the work several times on the average
turning to lessen the piece's leverage.

"william kossack" wrote in message
news:OF4Mb.20081$5V2.33475@attbi_s53...
One of the reasons I've been looking at the Nova is that the Jet and
Delta lathes in the $5-800 range turn too fast for turning unballanced
pieces of wood. It seems that you have to go to a lathe around the
cost of the NOVA DVR to get a slow enough turning speed.

I try my best to trim and shape a blank with either my little electric
chain saw or my bandsaw but there is always something left so it is not
perfectly round. I would typically work for an hour or more rounding
out the chunck before increasing the speed and starting to have fun with
it. All the time watching how much of a bight I'm taking because the
Grizzly would bolg down too easily

Well, that should be slow enough. The tool rest probably had a weak spot in
the casting. Grizzly has some great prices, but not the best machinery. I
have a Jet Mini that I have been very pleased with. The Jet 1642 generally
gets good reviews and has lower speeds, but is in about the same price range
as the Nova. It sounds like you may have outgrown your lathe.

Barry


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:OF4Mb.20081$5V2.33475@attbi_s53...
Understood but I was turning slow (shoot maybe 100 rpm) with light cuts
as I was trying to round it. The problem with tthe grizzly is that you
have to take light cuts because the motor is so weak. The stand is also
so light that any amount of speed with an unballanced object makes the
entire thing shake and try and dance. I've used this lathe for about a
year and a half and turned a couple pieces each month that I've had it
except when Grizzly had the headstock for 2 months to replace the motor.

One of the reasons I've been looking at the Nova is that the Jet and
Delta lathes in the $5-800 range turn too fast for turning unballanced
pieces of wood. It seems that you have to go to a lathe around the
cost of the NOVA DVR to get a slow enough turning speed.

I try my best to trim and shape a blank with either my little electric
chain saw or my bandsaw but there is always something left so it is not
perfectly round. I would typically work for an hour or more rounding
out the chunck before increasing the speed and starting to have fun with
it. All the time watching how much of a bight I'm taking because the
Grizzly would bolg down too easily


Barry N. Turner wrote:

When you think about it tool rests are subjected to tremendous loads when
a
heavy blank is mounted on a lathe and heavy cuts are being made.

I think it is important that we not try to use our lathes beyond their
working capacity. This "working capacity" is not always so easy to
determine.

However; just because a piece of wood will fit between the centers and
spin
without bumping the bed doesn't mean the lathe can actually handle that
size
blank. Listen to your lathe. It will tell you when you are pushing the
limits by excessive vibrations or its making strange noises. When it is
apparent that you are exceeding your lathes' limits........use slower
speeds
and lighter cuts.........switch to a smaller blank........or get a
heavier
lathe.

Barry


"william kossack" wrote in message
news:S51Mb.18800$8H.49147@attbi_s03...


It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood trying
to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap! and the
tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron just


snapped.


I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that turns
slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the nova.
I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

I haven't broken any tool rests yet, but I've had some spectacular catches.
World class, actually.

Barry


"Earl" wrote in message
om...
"Barry N. Turner" wrote in message
. ..

However; just because a piece of wood will fit between the centers and
spin
without bumping the bed doesn't mean the lathe can actually handle that
size
blank. Listen to your lathe. It will tell you when you are pushing the
limits by excessive vibrations or its making strange noises. When it is
apparent that you are exceeding your lathes' limits........use slower
speeds
and lighter cuts.........switch to a smaller blank........or get a
heavier
lathe.

Barry


So true... the problem is that some manufacturerers make lathes that
look like they are indestructible. And many of us didn't/don't know
enough to know the difference. Unfortunately for every one of us that
discovers great lists like this, there must be 1000's out there that
buy blind.

Even after reading books,until I began taking classes I didn't
understand what a light cut was. I thought I was taking light cuts but
because I was holding the tools wrong they wouldn't cut properly, so I
would increase pressure, etc., etc. Some of the catches I had
probably would have destroyed a Nova or One-Way!

So you give good advice. I hope all the other newbies like me listen.

Earl

Quality is always an issue, especially when it is lacking. I have one of
those little workhorses (Jet Mini) myself and it will usually turn whatever
you can fit between the centers. I have had some larger pieces of green oak
on mine that were definitely taxing the limits of my lathe. I didn't break
anything, but I finally gave up on one bowl that was about 9" in diameter
and 6" to 7" deep. It was just too tough and hard to cut.

Barry


"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:38:53 -0600, "Barry N. Turner"
wrote:

I think it is important that we not try to use our lathes beyond their
working capacity. This "working capacity" is not always so easy to
determine.

However; just because a piece of wood will fit between the centers and
spin
without bumping the bed doesn't mean the lathe can actually handle that
size
blank.

No refutation of what you are saying, Barry, but I can tell you this,
with my Jet mini, those dimensions do describe the working capacity
of the lathe. I've never been able to put a piece of wood on there
that it wouldn't turn, and the only thing that has ever broken, (and
believe me, I've had the MOTHER of all catches before) has been the
set screw knob for the quill, which I replaced with a plain piece of
1/4-20 threaded rod with a knob. Quality is a factor, IMO.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

I agree. You can undoubtedly find a better lathe............but its gonna
cost ya.................Barry


"Silvan" wrote in message
...
Chuck wrote:

No refutation of what you are saying, Barry, but I can tell you this,
with my Jet mini, those dimensions do describe the working capacity
of the lathe. I've never been able to put a piece of wood on there
that it wouldn't turn, and the only thing that has ever broken, (and
believe me, I've had the MOTHER of all catches before) has been the
set screw knob for the quill, which I replaced with a plain piece of
1/4-20 threaded rod with a knob. Quality is a factor, IMO.

I was thinking just the same, actually. I'm still a very new turner, and
I
really seriously suck at this, but I haven't been able to faze that stout
little sucker with any of my many mishaps.

I don't have a chainsaw or bandsaw, so the most reasonable way I have to
true something up is to stick it on the lathe and whack at it until it's
round. I haven't lost anything since that first day. It can spin
incredibly out of balance hunks of wood while vibrating many times less
than my bench grinder.

I do have about 80 pounds of counterweight on the bottom of the lathe
stand,
to lower the center of gravity and make it less tippy, but it doesn't feel
like it needs anything more.

The only bad thing IMHO about this lathe is that I will never be happy
with
a full-sized lathe that isn't up to the same level of quality, and that
means something spendy.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Guess what? I have never bolted mine down either. The Jet Mini is an
exceptional lathe, especially for the money. Its on sale right now for
$199. I gave $349 for mine and consider it one of the world's greatest
values.

Barry


"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:55:21 -0500, Silvan
wrote:



I do have about 80 pounds of counterweight on the bottom of the lathe
stand,
to lower the center of gravity and make it less tippy, but it doesn't
feel
like it needs anything more.

Ah,...I don't even have mine fastened to the top of the bench! But, I
do try to get it halfway balanced before I set it to spinning at
500rpm though.

The only bad thing IMHO about this lathe is that I will never be happy
with
a full-sized lathe that isn't up to the same level of quality, and that
means something spendy.

I hear you there, brother. I've been stuck turning on my mini for
over 2 years now...my sales unfortunately won't cover the cost of the
Stubby I've got my eye on, and I don't think I could settle for a
Grizzly.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
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-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

I've been smitten too. My right temple.........by a tool handle and leaving
a 1/2" X 1/4" deep cut beside my right eye.

Barry


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

Sir Edgar wrote: Cast iron can be brazed by a local welding shop and your
tool rest can be made as good as new if done properly. A reinforcing bar
may
have to be added on the underside
^^^^^^^^^^^
Or it can be arc-welded, using nickel rod, very easily.
The shape of a tool rest is very forgiving--don't need to worry about
preheat and post-cooling. As far as reinforcement is concerned, I would
actually rather have my toolrest break than have the handle of my gouge
come
up undere my chin and smite me.

However, I'm kind of a liar too, because the replacement toolrest I made
is
solid steel.

On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:55:21 -0500, Silvan
wrote:



I do have about 80 pounds of counterweight on the bottom of the lathe stand,
to lower the center of gravity and make it less tippy, but it doesn't feel
like it needs anything more.

Ah,...I don't even have mine fastened to the top of the bench! But, I
do try to get it halfway balanced before I set it to spinning at
500rpm though.

The only bad thing IMHO about this lathe is that I will never be happy with
a full-sized lathe that isn't up to the same level of quality, and that
means something spendy.

I hear you there, brother. I've been stuck turning on my mini for
over 2 years now...my sales unfortunately won't cover the cost of the
Stubby I've got my eye on, and I don't think I could settle for a
Grizzly.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----

I had planned on driving down to woodcraft to look at their lathes one
more time today but I got wrapped up doing some chores and working on a
maple chair I've been making.

Caught my next door neighbor as he came home today. I had to return
something so I took it over. During our conversation mentioned the break.

The update is he offered to fix the rest. He has a body shop with guyes
that can do the welding so what the heck I let him take it. We
continued our conversation about building a lathe that we have had
before....if only I could find a head stock.

Later as I was working on dinner while my wife was finally taking down
the christmas tree. A little girl showed up at the front door. It was
the 6 year old daughter from next door bringing a harber freight catalog
for me.

william kossack wrote:

It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood
trying to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap!
and the tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron
just snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that
turns slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the
nova. I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight

I've looked at some of the mini lathes and other midi lathes but one of
my goals is to get into larger
turnings....shoot my brother asked for something along the line of 12
inches after I gave his wife
a little bowl in a customer made box (he got a really nice wooden box
also).

Barry N. Turner wrote:

Guess what? I have never bolted mine down either. The Jet Mini is an
exceptional lathe, especially for the money. Its on sale right now for
$199. I gave $349 for mine and consider it one of the world's greatest
values.

Barry


"Chuck" wrote in message
...


On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:55:21 -0500, Silvan
wrote:




I do have about 80 pounds of counterweight on the bottom of the lathe


stand,


to lower the center of gravity and make it less tippy, but it doesn't


feel


like it needs anything more.


Ah,...I don't even have mine fastened to the top of the bench! But, I
do try to get it halfway balanced before I set it to spinning at
500rpm though.



The only bad thing IMHO about this lathe is that I will never be happy


with


a full-sized lathe that isn't up to the same level of quality, and that
means something spendy.


I hear you there, brother. I've been stuck turning on my mini for
over 2 years now...my sales unfortunately won't cover the cost of the
Stubby I've got my eye on, and I don't think I could settle for a
Grizzly.


--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget


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A good tool rest shouldn't break under ANY wood turning curcumstances...regardless of the severity of the catch. Just get a GOOD
tool rest and you'll be back in business. Personally, I replaced my THREE broken Jet tool rests (and banjo) with a Oneway banjo &
tool rest. Best investment I ever made in that lathe. It actually makes it pleasurable to turn on it again.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 02:15:41 GMT, william kossack wrote:

I had planned on driving down to woodcraft to look at their lathes one
more time today but I got wrapped up doing some chores and working on a
maple chair I've been making.

Caught my next door neighbor as he came home today. I had to return
something so I took it over. During our conversation mentioned the break.

The update is he offered to fix the rest. He has a body shop with guyes
that can do the welding so what the heck I let him take it. We
continued our conversation about building a lathe that we have had
before....if only I could find a head stock.

Later as I was working on dinner while my wife was finally taking down
the christmas tree. A little girl showed up at the front door. It was
the 6 year old daughter from next door bringing a harber freight catalog
for me.

william kossack wrote:

It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood
trying to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap!
and the tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron
just snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that
turns slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the
nova. I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight



Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

The question is how much should I spend for a tool rest for a lathe that
only cost $150 to begin with. The motor on this lathe is so weak that
if I hold on to a piece mounted to the lathe when I turn on the motor I
have no trouble keeping it from turning.

My wife gave me the lathe a couple years ago. It has been an OK
learning lathe but.... I now have a set of chisels (just two of which
cost more than the lathe), a grinder to sharpen the chisels (just the
grinder cost me more than the lathe but wish I had a better one). and
over time I've aquired a collection of blanks that I have either
purchased or been given as well as a few logs of local wood (the wood is
probably several times the value of the lathe) and a nova chuck which
cost more than the lathe.

I think a new lathe is in my future. I just wish they did not cost so much.


Peter Teubel wrote:

A good tool rest shouldn't break under ANY wood turning curcumstances...regardless of the severity of the catch. Just get a GOOD
tool rest and you'll be back in business. Personally, I replaced my THREE broken Jet tool rests (and banjo) with a Oneway banjo &
tool rest. Best investment I ever made in that lathe. It actually makes it pleasurable to turn on it again.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 02:15:41 GMT, william kossack wrote:



I had planned on driving down to woodcraft to look at their lathes one
more time today but I got wrapped up doing some chores and working on a
maple chair I've been making.

Caught my next door neighbor as he came home today. I had to return
something so I took it over. During our conversation mentioned the break.

The update is he offered to fix the rest. He has a body shop with guyes
that can do the welding so what the heck I let him take it. We
continued our conversation about building a lathe that we have had
before....if only I could find a head stock.

Later as I was working on dinner while my wife was finally taking down
the christmas tree. A little girl showed up at the front door. It was
the 6 year old daughter from next door bringing a harber freight catalog
for me.

william kossack wrote:



It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood
trying to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap!
and the tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron
just snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that
turns slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the
nova. I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight





Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

George,
According to your "opinion" then most of the woodturners in the world are
constantly putting their lives at risk.
Seeing has how almost all lathes, from entry level right on up to the top
end, such as Oneways make their toolrests from cast iron.
Some just use better iron then others.

James Barley
www.members.shaw.ca/jbarley


"georgetroy" wrote in message
om...
In my opinion anytime you use a cast iron tool rest you are putting
your turning life at risk. In my turning of over 20 years I have
broken one tool rest and snapped off on scraper. The broken tool rest
was on an outboard support and it tilted; pop went the wessel. GT

http://www.georgetroygraphics.com



Peter Teubel wrote in message
. ..
A good tool rest shouldn't break under ANY wood turning
curcumstances...regardless of the severity of the catch. Just get a GOOD
tool rest and you'll be back in business. Personally, I replaced my
THREE broken Jet tool rests (and banjo) with a Oneway banjo &
tool rest. Best investment I ever made in that lathe. It actually makes
it pleasurable to turn on it again.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 02:15:41 GMT, william kossack
wrote:

I had planned on driving down to woodcraft to look at their lathes one
more time today but I got wrapped up doing some chores and working on a
maple chair I've been making.

Caught my next door neighbor as he came home today. I had to return
something so I took it over. During our conversation mentioned the
break.

The update is he offered to fix the rest. He has a body shop with
guyes
that can do the welding so what the heck I let him take it. We
continued our conversation about building a lathe that we have had
before....if only I could find a head stock.

Later as I was working on dinner while my wife was finally taking down
the christmas tree. A little girl showed up at the front door. It was
the 6 year old daughter from next door bringing a harber freight
catalog
for me.

william kossack wrote:

It must be a sign from above but I was working on a chunk of wood
trying to round it after doing the best I could with a saw when snap!
and the tool rest for my grizzly 8691 lathe broke off. The cast iron
just snapped.

I cleaned up and then slathered the wood with green cut (no sense in
trying to bag it because it will be a while before I either get a
replacement or buy an new lathe) and pulled the lathe into the
garage.

I guess I have to get serious now about if I should replace the tool
rest or buy a new lathe all together. I've been looking at nova
but
feel an ouch each time I see the price. Then again anything that
turns slow enough for starting bowls is really the same price as the
nova. I'll have to have a talk with my swmbo tonight



Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

There is a large difference in the quality of the cast iron that is used by the
various lathe manufacturers for their tool rests. Oneway and several of the
other top quality lathes use a tool rest that is made from a Malleable Iron or
a Ductile Iron casting. Both are quite different from the common Grey Cast
Iron, and more expensive. The only thing they share with Grey Cast Iron is that
they are cast.

Russ Fairfield
Post Falls, ID


Russ Fairfield
Post Falls, Idaho
http://www.woodturnerruss.com/

That doesn't matter. Even if you get another lathe, you could still keep the old one (with a decent tool rest, of course) for
small stuff and/or just spindle work. Of course, if you don't have the room for both, disregard my comment.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:27:22 GMT, william kossack wrote:

The question is how much should I spend for a tool rest for a lathe that
only cost $150 to begin with. The motor on this lathe is so weak that
if I hold on to a piece mounted to the lathe when I turn on the motor I
have no trouble keeping it from turning.

My wife gave me the lathe a couple years ago. It has been an OK
learning lathe but.... I now have a set of chisels (just two of which
cost more than the lathe), a grinder to sharpen the chisels (just the
grinder cost me more than the lathe but wish I had a better one). and
over time I've aquired a collection of blanks that I have either
purchased or been given as well as a few logs of local wood (the wood is
probably several times the value of the lathe) and a nova chuck which
cost more than the lathe.

I think a new lathe is in my future. I just wish they did not cost so much.


Peter Teubel wrote:

A good tool rest shouldn't break under ANY wood turning curcumstances...regardless of the severity of the catch. Just get a GOOD
tool rest and you'll be back in business. Personally, I replaced my THREE broken Jet tool rests (and banjo) with a Oneway banjo &
tool rest. Best investment I ever made in that lathe. It actually makes it pleasurable to turn on it again.

Peter Teubel
Milford, MA
http://www.revolutionary-turners.com

On Mon, 12 Jan 2004 14:27:22 GMT, william kossack
wrote:

The question is how much should I spend for a tool rest for a lathe that
only cost $150 to begin with. The motor on this lathe is so weak that
if I hold on to a piece mounted to the lathe when I turn on the motor I
have no trouble keeping it from turning.

My wife gave me the lathe a couple years ago. It has been an OK
learning lathe but.... I now have a set of chisels (just two of which
cost more than the lathe), a grinder to sharpen the chisels (just the
grinder cost me more than the lathe but wish I had a better one). and
over time I've aquired a collection of blanks that I have either
purchased or been given as well as a few logs of local wood (the wood is
probably several times the value of the lathe) and a nova chuck which
cost more than the lathe.

I think a new lathe is in my future. I just wish they did not cost so much.

I know exactly what you mean...I had Grizzley for lathe #2, and a sorry
mess it was! I don't know where I'd be if I han't inherited some $$$ and
bought a decent one...I'd like better yet, but just can't afford it...

Save, plan, and do the best you can...(even a smaller GOOD lathe can
work)

William,

I had that happen to me with my Grizzly (first lathe) also. If I had to guess
I'd say it snapped right where the top of the rest meets the post, right?
That's where they all break. I think it's caused by having a sharp right angle
corner right there where the post meets the top part of the rest, right at the
Tee. Any time you have a sharp corner like that it creates a stress point where
it can snap. You can do several things:
Call Grizzly and have them repair it by replacing the cast post with a steel
post. They did it for me - no charge. They will drill up into the top section
and insert a steel post with a pin. After that you should have no problems.
They'll tell you it'll take about a week. After 3 weeks of waiting I went to
Woodcraft and bought their 6-inch modular toolrest, which is very nice. Soon
thereafter the Grizzly toolrest came back and it has worked fine ever since.
Then I had both a 6 inch and 12 inch rest, which was nice to have. When I
upgraded to my Stubby lathe which takes a 1 inch post all I had to do was buy a
1 inch post from Woodcraft to continue using the 6 inch rest (it's a modular
system and you can get different bars and different posts and they screw
together). The 6 inch rest is very handy for doing smaller stuff like pens or
ornaments. My Stubby toolrest is cast iron also, as are most toolrests, but
it's rounded at that point where the post and the top meet so it spreads the
forces better. It's also a much better casting. The fact that your rest is cast
iron isn't a problem in itself. It's the design and the casting--not the
material--that caused it to fail.

Incidentally, the Jet toolrests are made exactly like the Grizzlys and they
also break. I was at a 6-club competition picnic a few years ago and all the
lathes being used were Jet mini's. The competition was for each team to make a
natural edged bowl in one hour using 6-person teams, each person getting 10
minutes. All the rough blanks were mounted before starting the clock. When the
clock started there were at least 4 broken toolrests in the first 10 seconds,
all broken at that Tee join, all at the exact same spot. Both Jet and Grizzly
obviously figure that it's cheaper to replace broken rests than to redesign
them to make them right.

Take my advice and (1) Get Grizzly to fix the rest with a steel post, and (2)
immediately order the Woodcraft 6 inch rest. You'll be glad you did.


-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

I called woodcraft. Their universal rest system will not work

what I need is a base, the part that clamps to the frame of the lathe

Jim Gott wrote:

William,

I had that happen to me with my Grizzly (first lathe) also. If I had to guess
I'd say it snapped right where the top of the rest meets the post, right?
That's where they all break. I think it's caused by having a sharp right angle
corner right there where the post meets the top part of the rest, right at the
Tee. Any time you have a sharp corner like that it creates a stress point where
it can snap. You can do several things:
Call Grizzly and have them repair it by replacing the cast post with a steel
post. They did it for me - no charge. They will drill up into the top section
and insert a steel post with a pin. After that you should have no problems.
They'll tell you it'll take about a week. After 3 weeks of waiting I went to
Woodcraft and bought their 6-inch modular toolrest, which is very nice. Soon
thereafter the Grizzly toolrest came back and it has worked fine ever since.
Then I had both a 6 inch and 12 inch rest, which was nice to have. When I
upgraded to my Stubby lathe which takes a 1 inch post all I had to do was buy a
1 inch post from Woodcraft to continue using the 6 inch rest (it's a modular
system and you can get different bars and different posts and they screw
together). The 6 inch rest is very handy for doing smaller stuff like pens or
ornaments. My Stubby toolrest is cast iron also, as are most toolrests, but
it's rounded at that point where the post and the top meet so it spreads the
forces better. It's also a much better casting. The fact that your rest is cast
iron isn't a problem in itself. It's the design and the casting--not the
material--that caused it to fail.

Incidentally, the Jet toolrests are made exactly like the Grizzlys and they
also break. I was at a 6-club competition picnic a few years ago and all the
lathes being used were Jet mini's. The competition was for each team to make a
natural edged bowl in one hour using 6-person teams, each person getting 10
minutes. All the rough blanks were mounted before starting the clock. When the
clock started there were at least 4 broken toolrests in the first 10 seconds,
all broken at that Tee join, all at the exact same spot. Both Jet and Grizzly
obviously figure that it's cheaper to replace broken rests than to redesign
them to make them right.

Take my advice and (1) Get Grizzly to fix the rest with a steel post, and (2)
immediately order the Woodcraft 6 inch rest. You'll be glad you did.


-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

Best bet is to find a local welder to make a new base out of a piece of
2 inch channel steel. Just slot it to fit the bed, add a pipe to hold
the tool rest and you are set. All for avery small price