As I get ready to buy the new lathe, I'm trying to iron out potential problems..

One is that I have 2 Oneway Talon lathes with 1" x 8tpi adapters and the new
lathe will be 1 1/4" x 8 tpi..

I could order one 1 1/4" adapter from Oneway and use one chuck on the Nova and
one on the 2 Jet lathes, but I'd like to use both..

I'm looking at this:
http://tinyurl.com/ynodeo
at Amazon and wonder if it's safe...

It seems better to bring down the new lathe to match my present accessories (vac
chucks, etc.) than bring the other 2 lathes UP to 1 1/4"..

Any experience with these adapters?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I'm looking at this:
http://tinyurl.com/ynodeo
at Amazon and wonder if it's safe...

It seems better to bring down the new lathe to match my present accessories
(vac chucks, etc.) than bring the other 2 lathes UP to 1 1/4"..

No picture on your link, at least for me. The downside of most
spindle-size adaptors is that they extend everything further from the
headstock. If you could (and I doubt there's quite enough metal there to
do it between these two sizes, without having drawn it out to be sure)
it would be better to have a "non-length extending" adaptor to take the
smaller size up to the larger - a cylinder threaded inside and out.

If taking the larger one down, try to find an example that is a beefy as
possible over the spindle and behind the smaller thread.

Just found via web search to have a picture to look at, no affiliation:

http://woodenpost.com/products/chang...e_on_lathe.htm

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Hi Mac, Chuck adapters are concentric with the chuck body and don't
extend the chuck's overhang. Spindle reducing adapters do extend the
chuck, faceplate or whatever device that's being driven. To the extent
that the more the overhang the less safe, a chuck adapter is preferable
to a spindle adapter, but both are useful and relatively safe.

That brayed, I have several homemade reducing spindle adapters for using
old 3/4 in. and 1in. fixtures that seem safe enough to me. Also a
spindle reducing adapter allows me to use much cheaper dies, nuts &
bolts for shop made devices.

I think the important thing is to use steel instead of aluminum adapters
and to be sure to secure them to the chuck or spindle.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

I think the important thing is to use steel instead of aluminum adapters
and to be sure to secure them to the chuck or spindle.

Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Securing them is a key point. I failed to do just that a couple days
ago and when I stopped the lathe the bowl and chuck unscrewed
themselves from the adapter I use. Nothing hurt but scary as hell when
the whole thing come flying off the lathe. Luckily it had slowed to
near stopping before it decided to go for a walk.

JD

t
"mac davis" wrote in message
...
As I get ready to buy the new lathe, I'm trying to iron out potential
problems..

One is that I have 2 Oneway Talon lathes with 1" x 8tpi adapters and the
new
lathe will be 1 1/4" x 8 tpi..

I could order one 1 1/4" adapter from Oneway and use one chuck on the Nova
and
one on the 2 Jet lathes, but I'd like to use both..


I have been making and selling adapters along with faceplates
(www.wbnoble.com) and so far most folks are happy - one customer was quite
unhappy with 5 thousandths runout (which is actually better than the specs
on any wood working chuck), but that was the exception.

With anything that increases the overhang from the headstock, you will find
increased vibration (potentially) -

you may find that the larger lathe warrants larger accessories - after I got
a larger lathe, I have never felt the urge to put a chuck back on my Nova
Comet - it does pens and stuff like that exclusively - I certainly wouldn't
try to put faceplates on adapters just because they are so cheap (plug for
my web site) - but it might be worth it with a more expensive accessory, or
with light weight stuff - and in that case the best bet would be to adapte
the 1.25 to 1 inch even though this maximizes the overhang



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 02:58:47 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

I'm looking at this:
http://tinyurl.com/ynodeo
at Amazon and wonder if it's safe...

It seems better to bring down the new lathe to match my present accessories
(vac chucks, etc.) than bring the other 2 lathes UP to 1 1/4"..

No picture on your link, at least for me. The downside of most
spindle-size adaptors is that they extend everything further from the
headstock.

Well, I'll admit that I haven't seen the lathe that I'm getting in person, but
if it's like my 2 Jets, I'd enjoy the chuck being a little farther from the
headstock... and I have the scars to prove it.. ;-]

My gut feeling is that PSI isn't going to put their name on something that's
going to break under normal use, but I would like to see if anyone has used
one..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 22:26:35 -0500, (Arch) wrote:

Hi Mac, Chuck adapters are concentric with the chuck body and don't
extend the chuck's overhang. Spindle reducing adapters do extend the
chuck, faceplate or whatever device that's being driven. To the extent
that the more the overhang the less safe, a chuck adapter is preferable
to a spindle adapter, but both are useful and relatively safe.

That brayed, I have several homemade reducing spindle adapters for using
old 3/4 in. and 1in. fixtures that seem safe enough to me. Also a
spindle reducing adapter allows me to use much cheaper dies, nuts &
bolts for shop made devices.

I think the important thing is to use steel instead of aluminum adapters
and to be sure to secure them to the chuck or spindle.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

Thanks, Arch...
I know from the years that I've had the jet mini and 1442 that 1" 8 tpi is very
common and most tools come in that size...
Being lazy, I'd rather screw an adapter on the spindle than get involved with
the process of changing chuck adapters often... it's a PITA just doing it once
when you buy a chuck..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 19:40:18 -0800 (PST), JD wrote:


I think the important thing is to use steel instead of aluminum adapters
and to be sure to secure them to the chuck or spindle.

Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Securing them is a key point. I failed to do just that a couple days
ago and when I stopped the lathe the bowl and chuck unscrewed
themselves from the adapter I use. Nothing hurt but scary as hell when
the whole thing come flying off the lathe. Luckily it had slowed to
near stopping before it decided to go for a walk.

JD

Wow.. that must have been a sphincter check!

I've actually had that happen without an adapter.. just put the chuck on to do a
bit of sanding or something and it didn't get that last nudge to tighten it
down..

Any other problems with your adapter?

Is it to increase or decrease the spindle size?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Mac,
You may want to consider getting separate chucks for the bigger lathe.
The spindle adapters do extend out a bit, and you do get more
vibration, especially if you are turning bigger things. I had one for
a bit, and would use one for a demo, but not for regular turning in my
shop. For getting more distance from the headstock, I use extended
jaws on my chuck (vicmarc). You can change the insert for the chucks,
but it is a PITA.
robo hippy

On Jan 6, 8:25*pm, mac davis wrote:
On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 19:40:18 -0800 (PST), JD wrote:

I think the important thing is to use steel instead of aluminum adapters
and to be sure to secure them to the chuck or spindle.

Turn to Safety, *Arch
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Fortiter

http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Securing them is a key point. I failed to do just that a couple days
ago and when I stopped the lathe the bowl and chuck unscrewed
themselves from the adapter I use. Nothing hurt but scary as hell when
the whole thing come flying off the lathe. Luckily it had slowed to
near stopping before it decided to go for a walk.

JD

Wow.. that must have been a sphincter check!

I've actually had that happen without an adapter.. just put the chuck on to do a
bit of sanding or something and it didn't get that last nudge to tighten it
down..

Any other problems with your adapter?

Is it to increase or decrease the spindle size?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Any other problems with your adapter?

Is it to increase or decrease the spindle size?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

No other problems. For increasing the size (3/4" to 1")

Good Luck

JD

On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 18:01:50 -0800, mac davis
wrote:

As I get ready to buy the new lathe, I'm trying to iron out potential problems..

One is that I have 2 Oneway Talon lathes with 1" x 8tpi adapters and the new
lathe will be 1 1/4" x 8 tpi..

OK, I don't have a Oneway, mine is a Woodfast Cobra and when I
upgraded to it from a cheap pole lathe with 1" x 8 to the Cobra's
M30x3.5 ( Cobra was sold in USA with 1 1/4" x 8 tpi.) the dealer
simply replaced the 1" adapter in my Vicmarc chuck with the M30. No
problems. In the unlikely event that I further upgrade to a Stubby I
expect to get a screw-in adaptor to fit.

All the quality chucks I have seen have these adaptors available, this
may be your best way to go. I make my own faceplates, weld a M30
nut on a steel circle, drill holes for screws, true with an angle
grinder. Yours would be 1 1/4 nut instead of M30

mac davis wrote:
As I get ready to buy the new lathe, I'm trying to iron out potential problems..

One is that I have 2 Oneway Talon lathes with 1" x 8tpi adapters and the new
lathe will be 1 1/4" x 8 tpi..

I could order one 1 1/4" adapter from Oneway and use one chuck on the Nova and
one on the 2 Jet lathes, but I'd like to use both..

I'm looking at this:
http://tinyurl.com/ynodeo
at Amazon and wonder if it's safe...

It seems better to bring down the new lathe to match my present accessories (vac
chucks, etc.) than bring the other 2 lathes UP to 1 1/4"..

Any experience with these adapters?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
For the bowl chuck, make sure the insert has the grub screw to latch
it onto the spindle. Then you can reverse sand without activating the
automatic chuck ejection feature.

I had the same quandary. I relegated the oldest one to buffing. The
middle one sat in the way for a year until I gave it to my brother.

I noticed the comments on the link you gave--the adapter is not hollow
all the way through. You would have to drill it out to use a vacuum chuck.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Useless Invention: Ejector seats for
helicopters.

Can someone here post or reference info re the threads and diameters of
the holes for inserted adapters in the bodies of some of the most used
scroll chucks; Nova, Oneway, Vicmarc, etc.? So why do I care? Just
that COCs like to know specs that are never listed or appear to be trade
secrets.

Yes I can measure, but I don't have them all to measure and the threads
don't seem to be 'standard' anyway. A grudging TIA


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 20:00:26 -0800, "William Noble" wrote:

I have been making and selling adapters along with faceplates
(www.wbnoble.com) and so far most folks are happy - one customer was quite
unhappy with 5 thousandths runout (which is actually better than the specs
on any wood working chuck), but that was the exception.

With anything that increases the overhang from the headstock, you will find
increased vibration (potentially) -

you may find that the larger lathe warrants larger accessories - after I got
a larger lathe, I have never felt the urge to put a chuck back on my Nova
Comet - it does pens and stuff like that exclusively - I certainly wouldn't
try to put faceplates on adapters just because they are so cheap (plug for
my web site) - but it might be worth it with a more expensive accessory, or
with light weight stuff - and in that case the best bet would be to adapte
the 1.25 to 1 inch even though this maximizes the overhang

Not sure, Bill, but I might add a Oneway Stronghold later, but I can't see
needing it right now..

All of my vac chucks, mandrels and small accessories are 1/8 and I hate to have
to replace/duplicate them..

I'm only moving up from 14" to 16", so no radical change.. just a nicer lathe
with direct drive and digital speed..

I use my mini once a month, at traveling shows.. Other than that, it's for
friends and students...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Jan 6, 6:01 pm, mac davis wrote:
As I get ready to buy the new lathe, I'm trying to iron out potential problems..

One is that I have 2 Oneway Talon lathes with 1" x 8tpi adapters and the new
lathe will be 1 1/4" x 8 tpi..

I could order one 1 1/4" adapter from Oneway and use one chuck on the Nova and
one on the 2 Jet lathes, but I'd like to use both..

I'm looking at this:http://tinyurl.com/ynodeo
at Amazon and wonder if it's safe...

It seems better to bring down the new lathe to match my present accessories (vac
chucks, etc.) than bring the other 2 lathes UP to 1 1/4"..

Any experience with these adapters?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing


Hello Mac,

When I changed lathes from the Record Power lathes with 3/4" x 16 tpi
spindles to a Nova 3000 several years ago, I purchased an adapter from
Craft Supplies USA to convert the 1-1/4" spindle to 3/4" x 16 tpi and
found it worked great. Eight or nine years later, I have one that goes
from 1-1/4" to 1" x 8 and one that goes from 1" x 8 to 1-1/4" so that
we can use chucks back and forth from the Nova DVR, the Oneway 1018,
and the Vicmarc VL-100 without having to change inserts in the chucks.
I have not noticed any run out on any of these adapters. Also, it is
sometimes nice to have the chuck moved a ways from the headstock.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

On Sun, 6 Jan 2008 21:21:42 -0800 (PST), robo hippy
wrote:

Mac,
You may want to consider getting separate chucks for the bigger lathe.
The spindle adapters do extend out a bit, and you do get more
vibration, especially if you are turning bigger things. I had one for
a bit, and would use one for a demo, but not for regular turning in my
shop. For getting more distance from the headstock, I use extended
jaws on my chuck (vicmarc). You can change the insert for the chucks,
but it is a PITA.
robo hippy

Agree on the PITA changing adapters..

I'm ordering a 1 1/4 adapter for the talon, just in case, but I'd like to use
either one on whichever lathe, because I have standard jaws on one and spigot
jaws on the other and I'm too lazy to keep changing them..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 22:50:12 +0900, Alan wrote:

OK, I don't have a Oneway, mine is a Woodfast Cobra and when I
upgraded to it from a cheap pole lathe with 1" x 8 to the Cobra's
M30x3.5 ( Cobra was sold in USA with 1 1/4" x 8 tpi.) the dealer
simply replaced the 1" adapter in my Vicmarc chuck with the M30. No
problems. In the unlikely event that I further upgrade to a Stubby I
expect to get a screw-in adaptor to fit.

All the quality chucks I have seen have these adaptors available, this
may be your best way to go. I make my own faceplates, weld a M30
nut on a steel circle, drill holes for screws, true with an angle
grinder. Yours would be 1 1/4 nut instead of M30

I understand the adapter thing, Alan... my Oneway chuck was originally on my
Shopsmith.. (5/8" shaft with set screw)

My problem is that if I change the adapter on the chucks, I can't use them on
the other 2 lathes any more..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 07 Jan 2008 08:56:49 -0500, Gerald Ross wrote:

For the bowl chuck, make sure the insert has the grub screw to latch
it onto the spindle. Then you can reverse sand without activating the
automatic chuck ejection feature.

Damn... Never thought of that.. lol
I've never had a reversing lathe before..
Definitely something to consider, since I do about 90% of my turning with the
chuck...

I had the same quandary. I relegated the oldest one to buffing. The
middle one sat in the way for a year until I gave it to my brother.

Yeah.. the mini is about to be traded off for an ironwood log, but I'll replace
it soon... I do working shows and the 14" Jet is kinda hard to carry..
If I was in the States, I'd try to sell my jet 1442 for maybe $500, but the last
thing I want here is someone else with a lathe.. I don't want competition..

It's going outside for the dirty work like bark and stuff, and will probably
become my buffer....
I'm guessing that once I get the new lathe, I won't want to spend much time
turning on the old one..

I noticed the comments on the link you gave--the adapter is not hollow
all the way through. You would have to drill it out to use a vacuum chuck.

Good point...

I may drill it if I go with a spindle adapter, but I'll probably just make new
vac chucks for the Nova.. Just a matter of a few new nuts, since I have a life
time supply of 1" 8 tpi ones, and a few chunks of wood..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 7 Jan 2008 07:24:33 -0800 (PST), Fred Holder
wrote:


Hello Mac,

When I changed lathes from the Record Power lathes with 3/4" x 16 tpi
spindles to a Nova 3000 several years ago, I purchased an adapter from
Craft Supplies USA to convert the 1-1/4" spindle to 3/4" x 16 tpi and
found it worked great. Eight or nine years later, I have one that goes
from 1-1/4" to 1" x 8 and one that goes from 1" x 8 to 1-1/4" so that
we can use chucks back and forth from the Nova DVR, the Oneway 1018,
and the Vicmarc VL-100 without having to change inserts in the chucks.
I have not noticed any run out on any of these adapters. Also, it is
sometimes nice to have the chuck moved a ways from the headstock.

Fred Holder
http://www.fholder.com

Very good to hear, and concise and usual, Fred.. I'll order the sucker..

The Nova DVR XP is the lathe I'm TRYING to order from Woodcraft... How do you
like it?

Sounds like it's the poor relation is your shop.. ;~]


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

A tip - make sure that you have snugged up the adapter before turning
on the lathe. I had mine just about tight but not quite and now I
cannot free it.

On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 06:21:54 -0800 (PST), ebd wrote:

A tip - make sure that you have snugged up the adapter before turning
on the lathe. I had mine just about tight but not quite and now I
cannot free it.

Thanks.. After Kevin's comment about reversing, I'll make sure everything is
tight..lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

to free it, you need a significant impact in the proper direction - if the
adapter has flats for a wrench, put a wrench on it and it it really hard
with a hammer (beware of the flying wrench) - it will loosen with a couple
of hits
"ebd" wrote in message
...
A tip - make sure that you have snugged up the adapter before turning
on the lathe. I had mine just about tight but not quite and now I
cannot free it.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

I tried using a vice and strap wrench but hadn't thought of a sharp
impact. Thanks for the tip. It's kind of moot now because the older
lathe is used rarely, and only for spindle work. I think I will give
it a try though just to get the sattisfaction of finally freeing it.

if that doesn't work, use a clamp to squeeze the Vbelt together to lock the
spindle (dont' use the spindle lock or indexing pin for risk of damage) and
repeat the impact process - if you can hit it right, one hard smack ought to
do it.


"ebd" wrote in message
...
I tried using a vice and strap wrench but hadn't thought of a sharp
impact. Thanks for the tip. It's kind of moot now because the older
lathe is used rarely, and only for spindle work. I think I will give
it a try though just to get the sattisfaction of finally freeing it.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com