I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

Thanks for the assistance.

Neil Larson

Neillarson wrote:
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Make sure both surfaces to be glued are flat. You need some surface area
for a solid joint.

Second, put thick CA on one piece and accelerator on the other. This
will assure the joint is cured completely. (Hopefully)

On Jul 5, 10:18 am, Harry Pye wrote:
Neillarson wrote:
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Make sure both surfaces to be glued are flat. You need some surface area
for a solid joint.

Second, put thick CA on one piece and accelerator on the other. This
will assure the joint is cured completely. (Hopefully)

Flat Surfaces - I thought of that after I posted, I am going to try a
platter tonight, I will face joint them first. I normally do not and
that may be where the issue is coming from.

As far as accelerator, I don't have any nor have I ever used it. Is it
readily available? where can I get it. My glues are from Penn, I would
imagine they have the accelorator but woill take a week to get it.
Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and do that and wait.

Thanks.

I have used Titebond glues to fasten turning blanks to a wood block fastened
to a faceplate.

I have also made wooden faceplates by epoxying a nut (whose threads matched
my headstock spindle) into a wooden block and then gluing that block to a
turning blank.

Only problem I have had happened when I used cheap(underflooring) plywood
for the glue block - it delaminated while roughing out an eccentric blank.
bernie feinerman

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 07:03:55 -0700, Neillarson wrote:

I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

Thanks for the assistance.

Neil Larson

Neil....

Since Darrell Feltmate hasn't jumped in (yet) I'll refer you to his page on glue
blocks:

http://aroundthewoods.com/gblock.shtml

If you haven't been to his site, it's a real education... one of the good guys
that puts a lot of time and work into "giving back"...

Also, though I use a lot of CA of different types, I don't think I'd use it for
glue blocks...
Being an old fart, I used to use Elmers/titebond with a piece of brown paper in
between, but I'm sure that there are better ways now... *g*

One of the problems that you've had is not using accelerator with the CA....
In a (hopefully) tight place life between 2 well fitting pieces of wood, it
actually takes a long time for it to really cure... kind of like trying to get
it to set inside the bottle.. *g*

Darrell uses hot glue... but he's much braver than I am... I would be fast and
easy, and removable, I guess...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Neillarson" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 5, 10:18 am, Harry Pye wrote:
Neillarson wrote:
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Make sure both surfaces to be glued are flat. You need some surface area
for a solid joint.

Second, put thick CA on one piece and accelerator on the other. This
will assure the joint is cured completely. (Hopefully)

Flat Surfaces - I thought of that after I posted, I am going to try a
platter tonight, I will face joint them first. I normally do not and
that may be where the issue is coming from.

As far as accelerator, I don't have any nor have I ever used it. Is it
readily available? where can I get it. My glues are from Penn, I would
imagine they have the accelorator but woill take a week to get it.
Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and do that and wait.


Flat can be had by using a drillpress and the depth stop with your favorite
Forstner bit. Put the whole rough on a tray of plywood - properly wedged -
so that you can slide the thing easily to overlap the bores. You can even
use your drillpress quill as a clamp while the glue's curing.

CA cures poorly on acid woods, so wipe with a weak solution of bicarb to
help things along until you get the nitro.

"Neillarson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

I have had problems with CA. Even with accelerator, the piece comes flying
off and I find the glue is still liquid.
I will be humble and assume the problem is mine; I didn't get the surfaces
flat enough.

I have switched to polyurethane glue and have no more problems. Apparently
it is not quite a fussy about perfectly smooth surfaces.
It does however take several hours to set, and has to be clamped.

I wondered about this, too, when I turned my very first bowl from a
really green blank. Does the CA glue work properly when the wood is so
wet that dropletts fly off while turning?

If it doesn't work well, what DO you do to connect a wet blank to a
faceplate without screwing it on?

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------

Neillarson wrote:

I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

Thanks for the assistance.

Neil Larson

mac davis wrote:
Being an old fart, I used to use Elmers/titebond with a piece of brown paper in
between, but I'm sure that there are better ways now... *g*


What I keep wondering is this: if the OP finally gets the CA to stick,
how's he gonna get it UN-stuck?

What Mac says, works ... and there's no need to get 100% coverage,
either. IF the mating surfaces are 'sortof' flat.

I've had CA delaminate off pen blanks, too. I only use it for the finish
now and rely on epoxy to glue the tubes.

Bill


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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"Toller" wrote in
:
snip
I have switched to polyurethane glue and have no more problems.
Apparently it is not quite a fussy about perfectly smooth surfaces.
It does however take several hours to set, and has to be clamped.


The poly glue I used, one of the Titebond polys, seemed to be subject to
breaking under side shock stress. And since that often occurs in my
turning shop, I don't us epoly glue for that any more.

YMMV.

Patriarch,
still searching for catch-proof methods of work...

Two thoughts in addition to what the others have been saying--

The face plate mounting is inherently a weak one. Even on my successful
turning, I after the piece is done, I can usually hit the bottom of the bowl
with the heel of my hand and it pops off. So...

I use the tailstock as long as I possibly can. Well into hollowing the
inside, I leave a pillar that supports the work. All of the outside of the
bowl is turned with the blank secured with the tailstock.

I had an instructor point out that you need to watch where your chisel is
pointing and how it is pressing on the wood when you do the interior. If it
is pushing out from the center, a small catch will give you a discus throw.
If you are pushing back, towards the headstock, you have a better chance of
keeping your work on the lathe.

And, I use Titebond 2, clamped, cured for 24 hours at 50 degrees or more,
and a piece of grocery bag as the release point in the joint.

It is possible to get a flat surface by mounting the rough piece on the
lathe, with the face you want to be flat at the tailstock. Round the piece
to reduce vibration, and turn the bottom flat, leaving a narrow button
extending to the tailstock. Remove the work, cut off the button, chisel it
flat, and Bob's your uncle.

Happy turning!

Old Guy
Who worked on the bathroom floor instead of the lathe today. Bummer!






"Neillarson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

Thanks for the assistance.

Neil Larson

I have been turning with glued faceplates for 22 years and my
experience echoes most of the other posters here.
I use mostly titebond glue, although epoxy is often a substitute if I
can't afford to wait for days for it to dry (I have found on a 6" or
larger glue circle that some can still be wet and get a flying disk
after only 24 hours of drying). Some of my glue ups are 10-12" dia
disks and for these I usually wait a couple days or more, and
hopefully in hot sunlight.

I used to use paper as a release between joints, but find that when I
turn things over 6" dia it's no longer a good idea, and either forego
the paper (most of the time now I forego paper) or I use the tailstock
for the bulk of the turning. I find the extra work sanding or carving
off the paper is almost as long or longer than the time it would take
to part off the bowl and slice off the nub, so why put myself at risk
plus deal with glue loaded sandpaper to save a minute of time?

I have had bad luck with gorilla glue (polyurethane foaming glue). It
has failed in every circumstance, however you should know that like
Patriarch who posted earlier, I do a lot of irregular blocks that have
shock loads.

Shock loading is also a problem for CA glues, so even if you start
with a hexagon or octagon, or just the occasional catch, you can have
real problems. I use CA glue mostly for repairing cracks. In aerospace
industry it is used for holding accelerometers on a vibration table,
and when you're done with it, a little side shock is all it takes to
break the glue joint...CA is really strong in pure tension, but any
torsion or shear, it's very weak, so even with perfectly flat
surfaces, it's not a good faceplate glue.

If you can't get a good flat joint, or you have all endgrain in one of
your glue faces, two things can help: use epoxy with fine sawdust
(like from the power sander) as a gap filler and add a nice big fillet
around the joint. Turn off the fillet only when the rest of the
turning and sanding is done. (sawdust makes a good filler with yellow
glue too, but not as strong as epoxy and it shrinks and cracks, and
dries very slowly)
Second method I use a LOT when I have tall narrow vases is make a
short tenon (even only 1/2" long by 2"-3" dia works well) make mating
hole in face plate waste block and glue together. Nearly doubles the
glue surface and it's not all endgrain joint. This is especially handy
if you want to move the faceplate around on the glue block for multi
center turning, as it will hold very well off center and at angles.

ok, I'm confused - what's wrong with screwing the blank to a faceplate? -
for anything of size, that's what I do - don't put the faceplate on teh
bottom of hte bowl, put it on the top side, shape the outside of the bowl
including the foot, reverse into a chuck and then hollow it out, reverse
onto a vac chuck (or longworth chuck) clean up the chuck marks on the foot,
finish the bottom and you are done
"spaco" wrote in message
...
I wondered about this, too, when I turned my very first bowl from a really
green blank. Does the CA glue work properly when the wood is so wet that
dropletts fly off while turning?

If it doesn't work well, what DO you do to connect a wet blank to a
faceplate without screwing it on?

Pete Stanaitis
-----------------------

Neillarson wrote:

I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

Thanks for the assistance.

Neil Larson




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

I turn in Hawaii, and using a faceplate exclusively for roughing.
Norfolk pine typically, mounting a log section up to 24" diameter and
18" long or so. 1 1/2" screws through a 6 or 8" faceplate. I also turn
segmented work, and always use a faceplate for these projects as well.

When turning green NP, I turn inside out, compared to most people, in
that I rough out the outside into a cylinder, then cut the inside, and
then shape outside to match. I know it's backwards from what most
people teach and/or do, but it's the way that feels right and works best
for me. Once inside and outside are shaped and wall thickness is about
3/8", I turn a foot that can be used with my 4" chuck, then use a
parting tool to get the bottom of the foot to a couple of inches
diameter and cut the bowl loose with a bow saw.

After drying a couple of months or more, I mount it in a 4-jaw chuck and
(sometimes) turn to near final thickness and finish sand before
sending it to finishing.

For segmented work, everything is done on a faceplate. I plan so I have
an extra half inch to inch of thickness at the base so I can cut the
base off of the faceplate without hitting screws. If I'm turning
something long (recently made a pair of segmented "grecian style urns"
that were 35" tall and nearly 11" diameter) I use a steady rest to
support the vase while the top half is being turned. For segmented work
I use Titebond II. Urethane (gorilla) glue didn't work out on the
faceplate block interface, and separated. CA is way too stiff and tends
to fracture if you do get it dry all the way through. I've heard of a
few people that used hot melt on smaller items, but once you get beyond
8" diameter or so, you're playing with some pretty large forces,
particularly if the blank is longer than 8".

Typically, I find that people use faceplates that are far too small for
the forces involved. Given some mechanical engineering in my
background, I just don't like the amount of force exterted on a 3"
faceplate for a work piece over 6" diameter. All of my faceplates start
at 6" and go up from there. (largest is a 12x12 square plate a half inch
thick). My lathe is a 3hp shop built reversible unit with a 1 1/4 x
8tpi spindle, and will swing 42" above the bed. It's turned out a fair
number of bowls, the largest from a single chunk of wood was about 26"
diameter and 10" tall. In segmented work, I turned a 29" diameter by
29" tall balloon shaped vase in February 2007 using a 7" faceplate, but
the forces involved with segmented work aren't nearly as large as
roughing out a solid hunk of log of the same size.

The technique of mounting to a faceplate and turning the bottom and a
foot for the chuck, then reversing it and turning the inside using the
chuck to mount the item seems to take more time than I like, and (of
course) I can't turn inside out like mentioned above. Besides, when
turning NP, I rarely know what shape I'm making until the wood "tells" me.

Whatever method you use, be safe. Mounting anything larger than 6"
"thick" on a faceplate by gluing a sheet of paper to make it "release"
is asking for just that, and at the most inopportune moment. I know
very well about that, because in 1967, I recieved a nasty concussion in
a wood whop class when the fool running on the lathe behind me was
trying to turn a pair of bookends and oversped the lathe, causing the
project to leave the faceplate and whack me on the back of the head.
That one was good for several days off from school and may even help
explain why I'm so wierd even today... I learned long ago to not be
cheap when it comes to mounting something on a faceplate. My rules are
as follows:
1) never use any sort of laminated wood to mount to a faceplate
(Plywood). It just isn't designed for the forces involved.
2) use large faceplates so the forces aren't as large on the screws, or
on the glue interface to the project. (small faceplates can break or
strip screws because of the leverage relative to the small footprint of
a small faceplate).
3) use a faceplate block at least as large as the faceplate and use
screws that run the full thickness of the backing block. For relatively
lightweight items, I use screws that stick out of the faceplate by an
inch. For green Norfolk Pine (end grain) i use at least 1 1/2" screws,
typically two rings of 6 per ring. For non-NP, the faceplate block is
reused for the next project, by dressing it flat before gluing on the
foot block of the next project. (The past couple of years, my faceplate
blocks have been Koa, and are still going strong after 4 or 5 projects
each. Even at the cost of Koa, it's cheap in the long run because it is
reused for a long time.
4) Glue the "foot" block of the project directly to the faceplate block.
This block will be somewhere from a half inch to an inch thicker than
I intend to make the base, to allow for cutoff when the project is ready
to remove from the lathe. The extra wood here really doesn't cost all
that much, particularly if you look at it as "insurance" cost.
5) if you're at all unsure of the solidity of your setup, don't turn
it. Wood rotating at even relatively slow speeds packs a hell of a lot
of energy, and if you're in the way, it can do you some serious damage.
I know from personal experiece that a solid log turning the normal
direction (top toward you) will crawl right over the toolrest if
anything goes wrong, and that's typically where you stand when making
the rough cuts, at least. Having once used too few and too short screws
and seeing a 300 lb block leave the faceplate and smack the wall behind
me, by some miracle missing me entirely, it's something I never wish to
see again. Once lucky is wonderful, and I'm not one to push my luck,
particularly as I'm getting older and wish to get much older.
6) if the project is relatively long and of solid wood, use the
tailstock to support it at least until you get it round and balanced.
(I've used a tailstock perhaps three or four times in the last 5 years,
except when refinishing a piece damaged in a gallery)
7) Don't turn when you're tired. Don't turn if you have a feeling
something isn't right. It's better to wait for the next day, look
things over with a fresh eye and take it easy than try to finish when
tired or in a hurry.

Got me going, and I didn't know where to stop, I guess...

Find your limits, work safe, and have a wonderful time turning...

Thanks
--Rick

"Rick Frazier" wrote in message
...
I turn in Hawaii, and using a faceplate exclusively for roughing.
Norfolk pine typically, mounting a log section up to 24" diameter and 18"
long or so. 1 1/2" screws through a 6 or 8" faceplate. I also turn
segmented work, and always use a faceplate for these projects as well.

When turning green NP, I turn inside out, compared to most people, in that
I rough out the outside into a cylinder, then cut the inside, and then
shape outside to match. I know it's backwards from what most people teach
and/or do, but it's the way that feels right and works best for me. Once
inside and outside are shaped and wall thickness is about 3/8", I turn a
foot that can be used with my 4" chuck, then use a parting tool to get the
bottom of the foot to a couple of inches diameter and cut the bowl loose
with a bow saw.

You're turning the same way we all do. The cylinder you make is really
outside first turning, because it makes sense to have round and balance.
Outside finishing it isn't. I do my goblets and such that way.
Outside/inside/outside I call it.

Now that we're to the point of telling how we work rather than answering the
question posed, I'd say the OP should add a chuck to his list of wants and
get it over with.

Advice for you. I don't believe a log rotating toward you will crawl over
the rest if you keep the rest above center. Especially if you keep the
working part of the tool there too. The tool will be carried naturally
toward the outside, tangent to the surface, where there's air not wood or
iron. It will also not get underneath the wood because the diameter's less
up top. Then remember what Dave Hout always says and whittle the ends,
working back toward the middle so you don't get underneath a splinter.

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 07:03:55 -0700, Neillarson
wrote:

I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

I don't usually use a glue block, but when I have, I've always used
either wood glue or hot glue. Using wood glue and clamping overnight
worked the best for me.

Far as CA goes, doesn't it soak in too fast to get a really good bond?
I would think it's just too thin, unless you've got some specialty
stuff.

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 18:09:50 GMT, "Toller" wrote:


"Neillarson" wrote in message
roups.com...
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

I have had problems with CA. Even with accelerator, the piece comes flying
off and I find the glue is still liquid.
I will be humble and assume the problem is mine; I didn't get the surfaces
flat enough.

I have switched to polyurethane glue and have no more problems. Apparently
it is not quite a fussy about perfectly smooth surfaces.
It does however take several hours to set, and has to be clamped.

Careful with that polyurethane glue- it says it expands to fill gaps,
and it does. But when it expands, it gets really, really weak. It's
good stuff when you need it, for outdoor applications and the like,
but not that great for doing things indoors- and it's expensive as
well. You're better off with Probond or Titebond, IMO.

On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 13:32:27 -0500, spaco
wrote:

I wondered about this, too, when I turned my very first bowl from a
really green blank. Does the CA glue work properly when the wood is so
wet that dropletts fly off while turning?

If it doesn't work well, what DO you do to connect a wet blank to a
faceplate without screwing it on?

Wood glue and an F-clamp- if you don't have a suitable clamp, you
could put a wieght on it or use the lathe itself as a clamp overnight
if you use the tailstock to hold it together.

Hot glue does work as well, and once you get it to hold, it's plenty
strong- but it usually takes me a couple of tries to get it to tack
properly. Then again, I have a pretty cheesy glue gun, and I don't
think it gets as hot as it should be- getting two pieces of wood glued
together with it is tougher than forge welding.

Pete Stanaitis

On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 22:33:12 -0700, "William Noble"
wrote:

ok, I'm confused - what's wrong with screwing the blank to a faceplate? -
for anything of size, that's what I do - don't put the faceplate on teh
bottom of hte bowl, put it on the top side, shape the outside of the bowl
including the foot, reverse into a chuck and then hollow it out, reverse
onto a vac chuck (or longworth chuck) clean up the chuck marks on the foot,
finish the bottom and you are done

99 times out of 100, nothing. That's why I rarely use a glue block-
but there are some exceptions. My wife does pyrography, and sometimes
the blanks she cuts out are less than even, so I stick them on a glue
block and turn them round and put a little profile on the edge. But
that doesn't happen that often, usually she does her burning on
irregular or rectangular stock. She does her burning on 1/2" thick
maple, for the most part, so a glue block is the best bet.

In those cases, putting screws into the back might not destroy the
piece, but it just doesn't look as good.

I never use a glue block on end grain., and I seldom use a glue block,
but if I do and the wood is dry when roughing out (very seldom here),
I'll use hot glue, or CA, make sure the glue gun has heated up real
well, before you use it and I usually will heat the wood as well with
a heat gun, then put on the glue, twist, and clamp.

The foregoing is to much of a hassle, so I use CA more often, I will
put on the thin CA an let it soak in and harden, after that I use the
thick CA and clamp, and let it sit till it's hard, sometimes I will
spray some accelerator on the seam if I don't trust it.

AND Before you start turning give it a real good tug, so you know it
will stay on.

One more thing, almost always, I will have a shallow tenon and
mortice, to align and for greater strength of the joint.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Allow me to chime in here. I almost always use a glue block for bowls and
platters in both wet wood and dry. Most of the time I use hot glue but have
used CA.

Hot glue
1) let the gun heat for about 10 minutes.
2) get the glue surfaces flat or slightly concave, no rock allowed
3) use a generous spiral of glue on the block
4) immediately pust the two pieces together and twist the block
5) bench test: hold the piece and hit the glue block on the bench to see it
it holds
6) turn

if the wood is wet
2a) dry the bottom of the piece with a heat gun or hair drier. make sure
both surfaces are dry.
6a) turn the piece in one go. Overnight in a plastic bag which some of us do
to prevent cracking will allow condensation and moisture movement to weaken
the glue joint.

if using CA
1) work as in hot glue above but no need to heat the CA
2) use medium or thick hot glue
3) use glue on the block and accelerator on the piece
4) rumor has it that CA will work on wet wood. It will but I prefer not to
try on dripping end grain. Use screws and work around them or dry the wood
with a heat gun.
5) bench test: see above

I use glue blocks on bowls and vases and hollow forms without problem and on
a bunch of other stuff, usually hot glue.

There is not a lot here but you you might want to see
http://aroundthewoods.com/hollow1.shtml#tip22
and
http://aroundthewoods.com/gblock.shtml

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

Here is another link with glue block ready to use
http://aroundthewoods.com/finishing.shtml

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Darrell Feltmate" wrote in message
news:Sa4ki.20456$Io4.4778@edtnps89...
Allow me to chime in here. I almost always use a glue block for bowls and
platters in both wet wood and dry. Most of the time I use hot glue but
have used CA.

Hot glue
1) let the gun heat for about 10 minutes.
2) get the glue surfaces flat or slightly concave, no rock allowed
3) use a generous spiral of glue on the block
4) immediately pust the two pieces together and twist the block
5) bench test: hold the piece and hit the glue block on the bench to see
it it holds
6) turn

if the wood is wet
2a) dry the bottom of the piece with a heat gun or hair drier. make sure
both surfaces are dry.
6a) turn the piece in one go. Overnight in a plastic bag which some of us
do to prevent cracking will allow condensation and moisture movement to
weaken the glue joint.

if using CA
1) work as in hot glue above but no need to heat the CA
2) use medium or thick hot glue
3) use glue on the block and accelerator on the piece
4) rumor has it that CA will work on wet wood. It will but I prefer not to
try on dripping end grain. Use screws and work around them or dry the wood
with a heat gun.
5) bench test: see above

I use glue blocks on bowls and vases and hollow forms without problem and
on a bunch of other stuff, usually hot glue.

There is not a lot here but you you might want to see
http://aroundthewoods.com/hollow1.shtml#tip22
and
http://aroundthewoods.com/gblock.shtml

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com

"Prometheus" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 05 Jul 2007 18:09:50 GMT, "Toller" wrote:


"Neillarson" wrote in message
groups.com...
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

I have had problems with CA. Even with accelerator, the piece comes
flying
off and I find the glue is still liquid.
I will be humble and assume the problem is mine; I didn't get the surfaces
flat enough.

I have switched to polyurethane glue and have no more problems.
Apparently
it is not quite a fussy about perfectly smooth surfaces.
It does however take several hours to set, and has to be clamped.

Careful with that polyurethane glue- it says it expands to fill gaps,
and it does. But when it expands, it gets really, really weak. It's
good stuff when you need it, for outdoor applications and the like,
but not that great for doing things indoors- and it's expensive as
well. You're better off with Probond or Titebond, IMO.

I bought 5 bottles at 80% off at a going out of business sale; so price is
no object.

"Toller" wrote in
:

snip
Careful with that polyurethane glue- it says it expands to fill gaps,
and it does. But when it expands, it gets really, really weak. It's
good stuff when you need it, for outdoor applications and the like,
but not that great for doing things indoors- and it's expensive as
well. You're better off with Probond or Titebond, IMO.

I bought 5 bottles at 80% off at a going out of business sale; so
price is no object.


But there is a rumor that age might be. Some, most, maybe all, of these
are oxygen sensitive. An opened bottle certainly has a shelf life of
single digit months. Don't know of unopened bottles.

Just take care with the stuff, and watch for bowl launches!

Patriarch