Two thoughts in addition to what the others have been saying--

The face plate mounting is inherently a weak one. Even on my successful
turning, I after the piece is done, I can usually hit the bottom of the bowl
with the heel of my hand and it pops off. So...

I use the tailstock as long as I possibly can. Well into hollowing the
inside, I leave a pillar that supports the work. All of the outside of the
bowl is turned with the blank secured with the tailstock.

I had an instructor point out that you need to watch where your chisel is
pointing and how it is pressing on the wood when you do the interior. If it
is pushing out from the center, a small catch will give you a discus throw.
If you are pushing back, towards the headstock, you have a better chance of
keeping your work on the lathe.

And, I use Titebond 2, clamped, cured for 24 hours at 50 degrees or more,
and a piece of grocery bag as the release point in the joint.

It is possible to get a flat surface by mounting the rough piece on the
lathe, with the face you want to be flat at the tailstock. Round the piece
to reduce vibration, and turn the bottom flat, leaving a narrow button
extending to the tailstock. Remove the work, cut off the button, chisel it
flat, and Bob's your uncle.

Happy turning!

Old Guy
Who worked on the bathroom floor instead of the lathe today. Bummer!






"Neillarson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have been using my 3" Face Plate with a round turned 1.5 inch piece
of maple for a mounting block. on the first one, I had a fine mist of
CA flying, second I clamped and let dry overnight but I stall had a
wood frisbee about 2/3 of the way through the bowl.

Both of the CA glues I used are the ones I use for my Pens. Is this
the wrong glue? I think I am getting good coverage but something is
bad. Any body using yellow glue?

Thanks for the assistance.

Neil Larson