"Rick Frazier" wrote in message
...
I turn in Hawaii, and using a faceplate exclusively for roughing.
Norfolk pine typically, mounting a log section up to 24" diameter and 18"
long or so. 1 1/2" screws through a 6 or 8" faceplate. I also turn
segmented work, and always use a faceplate for these projects as well.

When turning green NP, I turn inside out, compared to most people, in that
I rough out the outside into a cylinder, then cut the inside, and then
shape outside to match. I know it's backwards from what most people teach
and/or do, but it's the way that feels right and works best for me. Once
inside and outside are shaped and wall thickness is about 3/8", I turn a
foot that can be used with my 4" chuck, then use a parting tool to get the
bottom of the foot to a couple of inches diameter and cut the bowl loose
with a bow saw.

You're turning the same way we all do. The cylinder you make is really
outside first turning, because it makes sense to have round and balance.
Outside finishing it isn't. I do my goblets and such that way.
Outside/inside/outside I call it.

Now that we're to the point of telling how we work rather than answering the
question posed, I'd say the OP should add a chuck to his list of wants and
get it over with.

Advice for you. I don't believe a log rotating toward you will crawl over
the rest if you keep the rest above center. Especially if you keep the
working part of the tool there too. The tool will be carried naturally
toward the outside, tangent to the surface, where there's air not wood or
iron. It will also not get underneath the wood because the diameter's less
up top. Then remember what Dave Hout always says and whittle the ends,
working back toward the middle so you don't get underneath a splinter.