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Old January 15th 08, 09:31 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

After 2 years of venting tumble dryers, fitting waste pipes etc I finally
decided to buy a TCT Core Drill set from Toolstation. Cheap enough @25 ish
so worth a punt and its seems pretty well engineered. www.toolstation.com
part number 41361.

It came with; 30, 50 and 110mm core. 200mm Hex and SDS arbors. 8mm Taper
Guide Drill. 2 x Drift keys.

No instructions however! Since I've never used one before, a few questions;

Do I use the hammer action on my SDS?

I assume the best way is to drill straight through with an 8mm extra long
drill, then drill from each side?

The 8mm taper drill guide looks pretty much like an 8mm masonry drill and
appears to be a taper fit. I assume the drift keys are to remove it, but
why 2?

I have a 620w Wickes SDS with clutch, powerful enough? Failing that I have
a Wickes High Torque mains drill, around 85Nm torque - but no clutch, just a
large side handle. Don't fancy using that much :-)

I've e-mailed Toolstation asking for instructions, but obviously no reply
yet.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257




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Old January 15th 08, 11:28 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

In article >,
John Rumm > writes:
> The Medway Handyman wrote:
> It will do the smaller ones. My 780W Makita will just about cope with
> the 110, but you have to take it carefully and make sure you drill a
> nice straight core so you don't add to much resistance.


I find it varies enormously with the brick hardness.
Old commons go through quite quickly. Drilling a newer
house with quite hard bricks took ages. I have a 1050W
Metabo and plugged it in through a power meter out of
curiosity. With my full weight leaning in to the drill,
it was using about 750W at top speed in low gear. On
softer bricks, I wouldn't have been able to put such a
force behind it. You need to keep an eye on the drill
temperature and may need to cool the drill (run at full
speed with no load) from time to time.

A friend of mine completely melted his bog standard B&D
drill which wasn't man-enough for the job (when it did
overheat, he didn't know how to cool it). Then he went
and bought a cheap SDS with no clutch, and ended up in
A&E having stiches in his chin after the core jammed
and the drill spun round and whacked him. On another
occasion where the drill couldn't spin round because it
hit an ajacent wall, he ended up with a 90 degree twist
in the arbour.

>> a Wickes High Torque mains drill, around 85Nm torque - but no clutch, just a
>> large side handle. Don't fancy using that much :-)

>
> Well 85Nm is going to be the same as about a 20kg weight on the handle
> - might be ok if you are expecting it and positioned safely!
>
> (think I would rather have a smooth shank arbour though to allow for
> some slip!)


That's not reliable. You really have to have a drill
with a safety clutch for this job.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Old January 15th 08, 11:39 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

The Medway Handyman wrote:
> After 2 years of venting tumble dryers, fitting waste pipes etc I finally
> decided to buy a TCT Core Drill set from Toolstation. Cheap enough @25 ish
> so worth a punt and its seems pretty well engineered. www.toolstation.com
> part number 41361.
>
> It came with; 30, 50 and 110mm core. 200mm Hex and SDS arbors. 8mm Taper
> Guide Drill. 2 x Drift keys.
>
> No instructions however! Since I've never used one before, a few questions;
>
> Do I use the hammer action on my SDS?
>
> I assume the best way is to drill straight through with an 8mm extra long
> drill, then drill from each side?
>
> The 8mm taper drill guide looks pretty much like an 8mm masonry drill and
> appears to be a taper fit. I assume the drift keys are to remove it, but
> why 2?
>
> I have a 620w Wickes SDS with clutch, powerful enough? Failing that I have
> a Wickes High Torque mains drill, around 85Nm torque - but no clutch, just a
> large side handle. Don't fancy using that much :-)
>
> I've e-mailed Toolstation asking for instructions, but obviously no reply
> yet.
>
>

I have drilled one 110mm core with the same drill using a hined diamond
bit. I would not dream of trying again without a clutch. The drill
coped, but I would not want to do many with that drill, and yes I did
work from each side

Malcolm
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Old January 16th 08, 08:51 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills


"The Medway Handyman" > wrote in message
.uk...

> After 2 years of venting tumble dryers, fitting waste pipes etc I finally
> decided to buy a TCT Core Drill set from Toolstation. Cheap enough @25
> ish so worth a punt and its seems pretty well engineered.
> www.toolstation.com part number 41361.


> The 8mm taper drill guide looks pretty much like an 8mm masonry drill and
> appears to be a taper fit. I assume the drift keys are to remove it, but
> why 2?


So you can still get the bit out when you lose the first one?


> I have a 620w Wickes SDS with clutch, powerful enough? Failing that I
> have a Wickes High Torque mains drill, around 85Nm torque - but no clutch,
> just a large side handle. Don't fancy using that much :-)


IMHO: Seriously, don't use one without a clutch. It will snag (especially
with the large core). Unless you have forearms like Charles Atlas it will
rip out of your hands and you will break your wrist or your nose/cheekbone
as my unlucky friend found out when the clutch on his B&Q cheapy failed.

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Old January 16th 08, 10:40 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

On Jan 15, 9:31 pm, "The Medway Handyman"
> wrote:
> After 2 years of venting tumble dryers, fitting waste pipes etc I finally
> decided to buy a TCT Core Drill set from Toolstation. Cheap enough @25 ish
> so worth a punt and its seems pretty well engineered. www.toolstation.com
> part number 41361.

[snip]
> I have a 620w Wickes SDS with clutch, powerful enough? Failing that I have
> a Wickes High Torque mains drill, around 85Nm torque - but no clutch, just a
> large side handle. Don't fancy using that much :-)


If the 620W isn't enough for larger cores, how about the following
approach:
- Drill pilot hole
- Use large core as deep as it will go without jamming on both side
(this gives a nice clean edge to the hole)
- Use the largest core the drill can cope with to remove the centre
(might be worth getting an ~80mm core).
- Go back to the tried and tested ring-of-holes + SDS-chisel to finish
off.


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Old January 16th 08, 11:36 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

On Jan 15, 9:31*pm, "The Medway Handyman"
> wrote:

> The 8mm taper drill guide looks pretty much like an 8mm masonry drill and
> appears to be a taper fit. *I assume the drift keys are to remove it, but
> why 2?


Someone somewhere is asking where his drift key is.

The pilot drill is a masonary drill. You can leave it in place when
drilling a solid wall but it's not needed once the core drill is far
enough in to guide itself.
If you go though a cavity wall, either go through from one side
(without hammer), or drill a pilot hole smaller than 8mm and core
drill from both sides. This leaves a neater hole as you break out into
the cavity. Remove the pilot drill as soon as the core is self guiding
or the pilot bit will fall out and disappear into the cavity.

Use a drill with a clutch or make sure the kick when the drill snags
is restrained. A pipe on the side handle and against the floor will do
this. A clutch is better though.

John
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Old January 16th 08, 11:26 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 21:31:33 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> After 2 years of venting tumble dryers, fitting waste pipes etc I
> finally decided to buy a TCT Core Drill set from Toolstation. Cheap
> enough @£25 ish so worth a punt and its seems pretty well engineered.
> www.toolstation.com part number 41361.
>
> It came with; 30, 50 and 110mm core. 200mm Hex and SDS arbors. 8mm
> Taper Guide Drill. 2 x Drift keys.
>
> No instructions however! Since I've never used one before, a few
> questions;
>
> Do I use the hammer action on my SDS?
>
> I assume the best way is to drill straight through with an 8mm extra
> long drill, then drill from each side?
>
> The 8mm taper drill guide looks pretty much like an 8mm masonry drill
> and appears to be a taper fit. I assume the drift keys are to remove
> it, but why 2?
>
> I have a 620w Wickes SDS with clutch, powerful enough? Failing that I
> have a Wickes High Torque mains drill, around 85Nm torque - but no
> clutch, just a large side handle. Don't fancy using that much :-)
>
> I've e-mailed Toolstation asking for instructions, but obviously no
> reply yet.


Like you I initally bought a TCT unit. The results were noisy dusty and
the bits didn't last long. Eventually I had to switch on the hammer to
make any progress.

I'm on my second lot of diamond cores now (theft not wear) except for the
big ones ( 117 and 127.) They do seem to last a long time.

I'm on my 6th or 7th SDS drill (All bar one due to theft).

The hardest for me is keeping the line absolutely level and square or
else the drill jams and the clutch (you better have one) slips.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html

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Old January 17th 08, 02:58 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Default TCT Core Drills

Ed Sirett wrote:
> On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 12:46:12 +0000, Skipweasel wrote:
>
>> In article >,
>> says...
>>> IMHO: Seriously, don't use one without a clutch. It will snag
>>> (especially with the large core). Unless you have forearms like Charles
>>> Atlas it will rip out of your hands and you will break your wrist or
>>> your nose/cheekbone as my unlucky friend found out when the clutch on
>>> his B&Q cheapy failed.
>>>

>> I must have arms like Charles Atlas then! My B&Q £30 SDS drill snatched
>> a few times doing a 110mm hole in hard brick - it wasn't nice but it
>> didn't throw me off the ladder.
>>
>> What helped was keeping the hole wet. Apart from keeping the dust down
>> the slurry seems to help the drilling process.

>
> It would have to be very wet, I tried that way but did not get it wet
> enough. It would have to be jetted into the hole during drilling.
> Half wet is much much worse than dry.


You can get proper wet core drilling systems if you really want to do it
this way...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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http://www.internode.co.uk |
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