Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use? About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some
years ago and bought some 20 or so Nicolson handles, all new red
plastic and have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of
the other files came with handles.

Files run in length from 6"-20" long. Some of the woodworking rasps
are pretty big.

Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.

I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and
not have to hunt for them.

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?

Thanks!

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:23:25 -0800, Gunner wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good 75
or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round, triangular,
square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files, ready
for use? About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some years
ago and bought some 20 or so Nicolson handles, all new red plastic and
have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of the other
files came with handles.

Files run in length from 6"-20" long. Some of the woodworking rasps are
pretty big.

Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them from
spikes..but not all do.

I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and not
have to hunt for them.

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what concentration?
A box of battery acid perhaps?

Thanks!

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3


I slide them into bits of bicycle inner tube. But I only have a dozen
files.

Dunno about sharpening -- I'd like to hear the answer.

When my dad did a lot of bodywork he sent his files out to be sharpened
by a guy that reground them, and was pretty contemptuous of the folks
that used acid -- but lead files are much coarser than regular files, and
none of the ones I saw were diamond pattern.

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...
sniop--

Dunno about sharpening -- I'd like to hear the answer.

When my dad did a lot of bodywork he sent his files out to be sharpened
by a guy that reground them, and was pretty contemptuous of the folks
that used acid -- but lead files are much coarser than regular files, and
none of the ones I saw were diamond pattern.

Sharpening a Vixen file is one hell of a lot different than trying to
sharpen a mill *******. Acid really is the only choice, so long as you
address the hydrogen embrittlement that results from its use.

If you make the decision to use acid, give your files a roast at 375 degrees
for a couple hours afterwards, to eliminate hydrogen. Sulfuric, nitric or
hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid will do the job. Might be hard to get nitric,
however.

Don't use any of these acids in your shop. The resulting fumes rust the hell
out of everything ferrous.

Harold

Gunner fired this volley in
:

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

You never heard of chalking a file to prevent pinning?

If you have any use for a file at all, put a handle on it, put a hole in
the handle, and hang it from the hole -- with a plastic or cloth scabbard
to help keep it clean.

Keep the rest rolled up in oiled paper -- just like Nicholson ships 'em.

Acid 'sharpening' takes a real knack, and isn't a good sharpening,
anyway. In practice, you run the file flat and backwards over a piece of
oiled fabric stretched tight around a sharp edge of a table or block.

That oils just the tips of the teeth as a sort of "resist" for the acid.
Hydrochloric acid dissolves iron (muratic).

You etch JUST the right length of time with JUST the right amount of
agitation to undercut those protected edges.

It never worked for me, and to hear old guys tell it, it never worked all
that well, anyway.

Lloyd

On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:23:25 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use? About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some
years ago and bought some 20 or so Nicolson handles, all new red
plastic and have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of
the other files came with handles.

Files run in length from 6"-20" long. Some of the woodworking rasps
are pretty big.

Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.

I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and
not have to hunt for them.

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?

Thanks!

I've seen references to "sharpening" files in a vinegar bath, pickling
vinegar was mentioned which I believe is stronger then table vinegar.
And, also reference to "battery acid". Apparently a variety of acids
work.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Mar 1, 2:23*am, Gunner wrote:

What method have *yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use?

Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.


Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? *A box of battery acid perhaps?

Thanks!


I have no good suggestions for storing.

As far as handles, I get golf balls at garage sales , drill a hole in
themo and use them for handles. Maybe not as good as regular file
handles, but much better than no handle. And the price is right.


Dan

"Gunner" wrote in message
...

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use?

I made two wall racks for them. The one for the files I use most is a
sheet aluminum U channel with nibbled slots far enough apart that I
can grab the handles. It also holds the dial caliper. The second,
denser one is a plank with two columns of angled finishing nails, for
the less commonly used files with no or smaller handles (wire nuts
etc). The excess and large taps and reamers are in drawers inside
heatshrink tubing or taped cardboard sleeves. I brush them clean
before putting them away so the heatshrink won't be contaminated with
conductive metal particles when I need it for wiring.

Then there is one of these near the mill and over the lathe for their
files, brushes, screwdrivers and wrenches:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31rU-1XXmhL.jpg
The tools in the front row keep the lathe toolholders on the back step
from sliding off. It's a convenient place to put the chuck key. A row
of L hooks under the lathe rack holds spring calipers and square-hole
Armstrong wrenches.
jsw

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner fired this volley in
:

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

You never heard of chalking a file to prevent pinning?

If you're filing aluminum, you don't need chalk. That's for filing
steel.

With aluminum, just oil your file. Or spray it with WD-40 -- one of
the few uses for WD-40 that's worthwhile. g

I keep separate files for aluminum and brass versus steel, for just
that reason. Once you've oiled a file you REALLY have to strip it
clean before using it on steel or it will skate, as you're well aware.
An oiled file won't skate on aluminum.


If you have any use for a file at all, put a handle on it, put a hole in
the handle, and hang it from the hole -- with a plastic or cloth scabbard
to help keep it clean.

Keep the rest rolled up in oiled paper -- just like Nicholson ships 'em.

Acid 'sharpening' takes a real knack, and isn't a good sharpening,
anyway. In practice, you run the file flat and backwards over a piece of
oiled fabric stretched tight around a sharp edge of a table or block.

That oils just the tips of the teeth as a sort of "resist" for the acid.
Hydrochloric acid dissolves iron (muratic).

Nitric is much better for sharpening files. Yes, I've used both.
Nitric takes a faster bite, and seems to be less inclined to
preferentially round the cutting edge. It bites everywhere.

I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. I keep it in the garage.

--
Ed Huntress


You etch JUST the right length of time with JUST the right amount of
agitation to undercut those protected edges.

It never worked for me, and to hear old guys tell it, it never worked all
that well, anyway.

Lloyd

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Gunner fired this volley in
:

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

You never heard of chalking a file to prevent pinning?

Sure I have. The problem was...the previous owners didnt from the
looks of things.


If you have any use for a file at all, put a handle on it, put a hole in
the handle, and hang it from the hole -- with a plastic or cloth scabbard
to help keep it clean.

Keep the rest rolled up in oiled paper -- just like Nicholson ships 'em.

Acid 'sharpening' takes a real knack, and isn't a good sharpening,
anyway. In practice, you run the file flat and backwards over a piece of
oiled fabric stretched tight around a sharp edge of a table or block.

That oils just the tips of the teeth as a sort of "resist" for the acid.
Hydrochloric acid dissolves iron (muratic).

You etch JUST the right length of time with JUST the right amount of
agitation to undercut those protected edges.

It never worked for me, and to hear old guys tell it, it never worked all
that well, anyway.

Lloyd

Thanks for the info. I know a couple companies out there do that
...cheap enough. I just didnt know how effective it was

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Fri, 1 Mar 2013 07:35:26 -0500, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Gunner" wrote in message
.. .

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use?

I made two wall racks for them. The one for the files I use most is a
sheet aluminum U channel with nibbled slots far enough apart that I
can grab the handles. It also holds the dial caliper. The second,
denser one is a plank with two columns of angled finishing nails, for
the less commonly used files with no or smaller handles (wire nuts
etc). The excess and large taps and reamers are in drawers inside
heatshrink tubing or taped cardboard sleeves. I brush them clean
before putting them away so the heatshrink won't be contaminated with
conductive metal particles when I need it for wiring.

Then there is one of these near the mill and over the lathe for their
files, brushes, screwdrivers and wrenches:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31rU-1XXmhL.jpg
The tools in the front row keep the lathe toolholders on the back step
from sliding off. It's a convenient place to put the chuck key. A row
of L hooks under the lathe rack holds spring calipers and square-hole
Armstrong wrenches.
jsw


Thanks!

Ive got a couple of those red tool holders tucked up here and there.
One in the shop is identical to yours, another is a blue one with a
bit better layout and is pegboard compatible, in the electronics shop

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:23:25 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use? About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some
years ago and bought some 20 or so Nicolson handles, all new red
plastic and have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of
the other files came with handles.

I'm finally getting around to putting handles on my older files. It
makes a much more usable file.


Files run in length from 6"-20" long. Some of the woodworking rasps
are pretty big.

Got a spare Nicholson 49 (or 50) in that stock you'd like to part
with? How much do you want for it?


Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.

So drill them. 'Taint rocket surgery. Hanging is the best way I've
found. Pound some 16d nails through a tubafore and mount that to the
wall. Grind the points off the nails and bend them up slightly to
hold the files.

Another possible way is taking lengths of PVC pipe and sticking them
in that. Tie 'em together with a band clamp and make them short
enough to see the file tooth pattern on each.


I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and
not have to hunt for them.

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Nice!


Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?

A woodworking buddy (Steve Knight, a retired hand plane maker from
Portland) used a service in HelL.A. area, Boggs Tool. He liked the
results. http://www.boggstool.com/page5.html


Thanks!

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

Soft, sticky types of aluminum are hell to get off files, aren't they?
I hate that. Doesn't lye eat aluminum?

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

An oiled file won't skate on aluminum.

No, but it will get oil on the work. Sometimes you don't want that.
I'll oil if I'm roughing, but chalk when I'm working with clean, nearly
finished stuff -- even aluminum.

I, too, keep separate files for separate work... but sometimes the roles
and treatments blend a little.
Lloyd

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

It never worked for me, and to hear old guys tell it, it never worked
all that well, anyway.

So, time to make a bunch of knives?

--
My liberal friends think I'm a conservative kook.
My conservative friends think I'm a liberal kook.
Why am I not happy that they have found common ground?

Tim Wescott, Communications, Control, Circuits & Software
http://www.wescottdesign.com

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 11:33:51 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Ed Huntress fired this volley in
:

An oiled file won't skate on aluminum.

No, but it will get oil on the work. Sometimes you don't want that.

That's true, but we get oil on work all the time in many types of
metalworking. I've never considered it to be a hardship with filing,
but then again...

I'll oil if I'm roughing, but chalk when I'm working with clean, nearly
finished stuff -- even aluminum.

I, too, keep separate files for separate work... but sometimes the roles
and treatments blend a little.
Lloyd

Sure. Most of my files are kept dry, and I chalk them if I'm getting
any pinning. But I'll oil them when I'm just working on aluminum or
brass.

The file cuts cleaner and easier, too.

--
Ed Huntress

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:23:25 PM UTC-8, Gunner wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files....
Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

I make cardboard scabbards for 'em, with staples on the seams
(and if I think of it, a tape wrap to keep the staples from biting).
Then it's OK to pile 'em in a drawer.

Biggest drawback: they all look alike in the scabbards, so there's
a few minutes sorting through the collection to find the right
shape and tooth for a job.

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 12:04:56 -0800, whit3rd wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:23:25 PM UTC-8, Gunner wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files....
Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

I make cardboard scabbards for 'em, with staples on the seams
(and if I think of it, a tape wrap to keep the staples from biting).
Then it's OK to pile 'em in a drawer.

Biggest drawback: they all look alike in the scabbards, so there's
a few minutes sorting through the collection to find the right
shape and tooth for a job.

With a heat sealer (like, eg, "Impulse Heat Sealer 12 Inch",
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Impulse-Heat-Sealer-12-Inch-/251237125610)
you can divide plastic bags etc into parallel pockets. Eg, top-loading
polypropylene notebook sheet protectors divided into 3 or 4 pockets
are ok for storing files. The translucent bags from cereal boxes work
ok too.

--
jiw

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 06:35:55 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:23:25 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use? About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some
years ago and bought some 20 or so Nicolson handles, all new red
plastic and have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of
the other files came with handles.

I'm finally getting around to putting handles on my older files. It
makes a much more usable file.


Files run in length from 6"-20" long. Some of the woodworking rasps
are pretty big.

Got a spare Nicholson 49 (or 50) in that stock you'd like to part
with? How much do you want for it?

I may have a couple 49s..not sure about the finer 50. Free to you of
course, if I have them.



Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.

So drill them. 'Taint rocket surgery. Hanging is the best way I've
found. Pound some 16d nails through a tubafore and mount that to the
wall. Grind the points off the nails and bend them up slightly to
hold the files.

I dont have an EDM machine to drill them. Oh..the handles. Blush..

Another possible way is taking lengths of PVC pipe and sticking them
in that. Tie 'em together with a band clamp and make them short
enough to see the file tooth pattern on each.

Yaknow..thats not a bad idea at all. Ill check into that!! Indeed!

I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and
not have to hunt for them.

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Nice!


Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?

A woodworking buddy (Steve Knight, a retired hand plane maker from
Portland) used a service in HelL.A. area, Boggs Tool. He liked the
results. http://www.boggstool.com/page5.html

Boggs is one of the names. And its in my service range.


Thanks!

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

Soft, sticky types of aluminum are hell to get off files, aren't they?
I hate that. Doesn't lye eat aluminum?

Thats what Ive been considering using. Got some Draino in the
lue..might make up a bit and soak the bad ones.

Ive been cleaning and oiling the files..yeah..not supposed to oil
them. Shrug. Got some very very very light gauge oil in a spray can
that lost its propellent so popped a hole in the can and put it into a
pump oil can. Paint brushed em with that gauge oil and set a bunch of
them in a small plastic tub last night and let em drain. More today.

Its a very very light oil. Runs like water. Almost kerosene.

If I find the oil to be an issue if I use one..got carby cleaner at
hand all the time. Spritz and the oil is gone.

Gunner, making a note to check for #49/50 rasps


The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Fri, 1 Mar 2013 12:04:56 -0800 (PST), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:23:25 PM UTC-8, Gunner wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files....
Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

I make cardboard scabbards for 'em, with staples on the seams
(and if I think of it, a tape wrap to keep the staples from biting).
Then it's OK to pile 'em in a drawer.

Biggest drawback: they all look alike in the scabbards, so there's
a few minutes sorting through the collection to find the right
shape and tooth for a job.


That is indeed a concern. Hummm..Ive got or can get some of that net
material that they shop hydraulic fittings in to protect the
threads...that would work as well.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Fri, 1 Mar 2013 20:14:01 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 12:04:56 -0800, whit3rd wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:23:25 PM UTC-8, Gunner wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files....
Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

I make cardboard scabbards for 'em, with staples on the seams
(and if I think of it, a tape wrap to keep the staples from biting).
Then it's OK to pile 'em in a drawer.

Biggest drawback: they all look alike in the scabbards, so there's
a few minutes sorting through the collection to find the right
shape and tooth for a job.

With a heat sealer (like, eg, "Impulse Heat Sealer 12 Inch",
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Impulse-Heat-Sealer-12-Inch-/251237125610)
you can divide plastic bags etc into parallel pockets. Eg, top-loading
polypropylene notebook sheet protectors divided into 3 or 4 pockets
are ok for storing files. The translucent bags from cereal boxes work
ok too.


Hey! Thats good too! I have a sealer..couple of them in fact.

Thanks!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 13:49:58 -0800, Gunner
wrote:


Got a spare Nicholson 49 (or 50) in that stock you'd like to part
with? How much do you want for it?

I may have a couple 49s..not sure about the finer 50. Free to you of
course, if I have them.

Larry...got (1) Nicholson #49 and a Tome (Portugese) version of the
#50. The Tome is not as sharp as it should be..shrug..but it will
still cut well enough.

Email me your shipping address and Ill see about getting them out to
you.

http://www.tomefeteira.com/

You will need to find your own handles...chuckle



Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 15:01:26 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 13:49:58 -0800, Gunner
wrote:


Got a spare Nicholson 49 (or 50) in that stock you'd like to part
with? How much do you want for it?

I may have a couple 49s..not sure about the finer 50. Free to you of
course, if I have them.

Larry...got (1) Nicholson #49 and a Tome (Portugese) version of the
#50. The Tome is not as sharp as it should be..shrug..but it will
still cut well enough.

Hey, that's great!


Email me your shipping address and Ill see about getting them out to
you.

http://www.tomefeteira.com/

You will need to find your own handles...chuckle

I think I can handle that. Let me know how much to send you for the
shipping.


--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)

On 2013-03-01, Gunner wrote:
Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

Agreed.

Perhaps if you saved the punch cards, you could use them to
separate layers of files.

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use?

How about the expanding plastic jackets used to protect motor
shafts and to bundle cables?

[ ... ]

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?

I've never tried this.

Thanks!

Gunner, back to file carding aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

Got any files made for aluminum? They are easier to clean if
they get used on aluminum. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 14:38:36 -0800, Gunner
wrote:

On Fri, 1 Mar 2013 20:14:01 +0000 (UTC), James Waldby
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 12:04:56 -0800, whit3rd wrote:

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 11:23:25 PM UTC-8, Gunner wrote:

Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files....
Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

I make cardboard scabbards for 'em, with staples on the seams
(and if I think of it, a tape wrap to keep the staples from biting).
Then it's OK to pile 'em in a drawer.

Biggest drawback: they all look alike in the scabbards, so there's
a few minutes sorting through the collection to find the right
shape and tooth for a job.

With a heat sealer (like, eg, "Impulse Heat Sealer 12 Inch",
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Impulse-Heat-Sealer-12-Inch-/251237125610)
you can divide plastic bags etc into parallel pockets. Eg, top-loading
polypropylene notebook sheet protectors divided into 3 or 4 pockets
are ok for storing files. The translucent bags from cereal boxes work
ok too.

They wouldn't last long, but that would work.


Hey! Thats good too! I have a sealer..couple of them in fact.

Rather than buy a $100 tool, I found some 6" x 9" x 8mil poly bags and
am using them to sort stuff in my BOB. A straw inserted into them
sucks out excess air and low-vacuum seals them.

--
When a quiet man is moved to passion, it seems the very earth will shake.
-- Stephanie Barron
(Something for the Powers That Be to remember, eh?)

wrote:
On Mar 1, 2:23 am, Gunner wrote:

What method have yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use?

Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.


Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? A box of battery acid perhaps?

Thanks!


I have no good suggestions for storing.

As far as handles, I get golf balls at garage sales , drill a hole in
themo and use them for handles. Maybe not as good as regular file
handles, but much better than no handle. And the price is right.


Dan



PVC tubes mounted on the side of the workbench work for me to store
files. remember to put a cap on the bottom end of the tube.

John

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2013-03-01, Gunner wrote:
Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

Agreed.

Perhaps if you saved the punch cards, you could use them to
separate layers of files.


How about some of the heavy vinyl used to make good quality
canopies. I get scraps fro a local factory, and most are a couple
square feet in different shapes. I have some long strips that are six
inches wide. Heavy, mostly black pieces and reinforced. I'm looking
for an old industrial sewing machine to make equipment covers, but I
have a steady supply. I also get scraps of the heavy vinyl screening
they make their dividers out of.

they all look alike in the scabbards

There's always the option of labeling the tang or handle.
LLoyd

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
m:

How about some of the heavy vinyl used to make good quality
canopies

oil will make that stuff turn to goo in short order.
Lloyd

"PrecisionmachinisT" fired this
volley in news:w_GdndbEyvAs46zMnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@scnresearch. com:

What happens if you forget to put a cap on the bottom ?

He's probably afraid all the oil would leak out. With golf balls as
handles, it's unlikely the files would fall through gawd! GOLF BALLS?

I know they're a couple of bux each, but what's wrong with a proper file
handle with a reinforced ferrule?

LLoyd

On Mar 2, 8:45*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:


*With golf balls as
handles, it's unlikely the files would fall through gawd! GOLF BALLS?

I know they're a couple of bux each, but what's wrong with a proper file
handle with a reinforced ferrule?

LLoyd

Nothing wrong with proper file handles. But I have a lot of files,
maybe 50 to 75, and golf balls actually work well. I get the golf
balls at garage sales at about 10 cents each. Drill a small hole in
the golf ball and force the tang into it. A lot better than no
handle. Try it before saying it is not reasonable.


Dan

On Mar 1, 6:50*am, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:23:25 -0800, Gunner
wrote:









Im going through drawers and tool boxes and dug out my files. A good
75 or more of them, Mill files, knife files, rasps, half round,
triangular, square, cant *mill *******s etc etc

Ive been keeping them in IBM punch card drawers...laid on top of each
other..not a good thing.

What method have *yall found to be really good for storing files,
ready for use? *About 1/3-1/2 have handles. I was at a swap meet some
years ago and bought some 20 or so *Nicolson handles, all new red
plastic and have installed them on the most used files..and a bunch of
the other files came with handles.

Files run in length from 6"-20" long. *Some of the woodworking rasps
are pretty big.

Many of the handles have holes in them so I could..could hang them
from spikes..but not all do.

I dont use files a hell of a lot..but when I do..I like em sharp and
not have to hunt for them.

Ive been the one to snag the files from machine shops that go out of
business..so I have a bunch of *them, and a fair number of duplicates.

Oh..any good suggestions for sharpening the few that need it? I know
that many places dip them in acid. What kind and at what
concentration? *A box of battery acid perhaps?

Thanks!

I've seen references to "sharpening" files in a vinegar bath, pickling
vinegar was mentioned which I believe is stronger then table
vinegar.
And, also reference to "battery acid". Apparently a variety of acids
work.

And brake fluid, nail polish remover, white gas or isoprop. alcohol.

On Mar 1, 8:56*am, Ed Huntress wrote:
On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Gunner, back to file carding *aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

You never heard of chalking a file to prevent pinning?

If you're filing aluminum, you don't need chalk. That's for filing
steel.

With aluminum, just oil your file. Or spray it with WD-40 -- one of
the few uses for WD-40 that's worthwhile. g

I keep separate files for aluminum and brass versus steel, for just
that reason. Once you've oiled a file you REALLY have to strip it
clean before using it on steel or it will skate, as you're well aware.
An oiled file won't skate on aluminum.



If you have any use for a file at all, put a handle on it, put a hole in
the handle, and hang it from the hole -- with a plastic or cloth scabbard
to help keep it clean.

Keep the rest rolled up in oiled paper -- just like Nicholson ships 'em.

Acid 'sharpening' takes a real knack, and isn't a good sharpening,
anyway. *In practice, you run the file flat and backwards over a piece of
oiled fabric stretched tight around a sharp edge of a table or block.

That oils just the tips of the teeth as a sort of "resist" for the acid.
Hydrochloric acid dissolves iron (muratic).

Nitric is much better for sharpening files. Yes, I've used both.
Nitric takes a faster bite, and seems to be less inclined to
preferentially round the cutting edge. It bites everywhere.

I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. I keep it in the
garage.

Yeah, the stuff and aluminum in any form can cause fires, too.

On Mar 2, 3:06*pm, Transition Zone wrote:
On Mar 1, 8:56*am, Ed Huntress wrote:







On Fri, 01 Mar 2013 05:41:07 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"

lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:
Gunner fired this volley in
:

Gunner, back to file carding *aluminum from some files (GACK!!) and a
bit of rust on one or 3

You never heard of chalking a file to prevent pinning?

If you're filing aluminum, you don't need chalk. That's for filing
steel.

With aluminum, just oil your file. Or spray it with WD-40 -- one of
the few uses for WD-40 that's worthwhile. g

I keep separate files for aluminum and brass versus steel, for just
that reason. Once you've oiled a file you REALLY have to strip it
clean before using it on steel or it will skate, as you're well aware.
An oiled file won't skate on aluminum.

If you have any use for a file at all, put a handle on it, put a hole in
the handle, and hang it from the hole -- with a plastic or cloth scabbard
to help keep it clean.

Keep the rest rolled up in oiled paper -- just like Nicholson ships 'em.

Acid 'sharpening' takes a real knack, and isn't a good sharpening,
anyway. *In practice, you run the file flat and backwards over a piece of
oiled fabric stretched tight around a sharp edge of a table or block.

That oils just the tips of the teeth as a sort of "resist" for the acid.
Hydrochloric acid dissolves iron (muratic).

Nitric is much better for sharpening files. Yes, I've used both.
Nitric takes a faster bite, and seems to be less inclined to
preferentially round the cutting edge. It bites everywhere.

* * I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. *I keep it in the
garage.

Yeah, the stuff and aluminum in any form can cause fires, too.

That's why I dislike the electrical industry, because they approved of
aluminum wiring. It can cause fires easier than copper.

wrote in message
...

Nothing wrong with proper file handles. But I have a lot of files maybe
50 to 75, and golf balls actually work well.

I learned to draw-file long ago, no handle needed

On Mar 2, 2:25*pm, "PrecisionmachinisT"
wrote:
wrote in message

...

Nothing wrong with proper file handles. *But I have a lot of files maybe
50 to 75, *and golf balls actually work well.

I learned to draw-file long ago, no handle needed

The red plastic Nicolson handles that Gumballs mentioned are ****ing
garbage. Here are the high quality wooden handles made in the USA by
Lutz called Skoo-Zon that I use. They never fall off and they fit my
hand much better than the plastic garbage that Nicolson offers.

http://www.mainewoodconcepts.com/ind...511&sub_id=519

I've to an extra 20 of them in different sizes I like them so much.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
m:

How about some of the heavy vinyl used to make good quality
canopies

oil will make that stuff turn to goo in short order.


Like my 39 year old Xcelite 99SM roll tool kit? It's starting to dry
out & crack, but it never turned to goo. I've had it since Augst '74 and
carried it on service calls for over a decade. A lot of oil was put on
those tools over the years.

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
m:


Like my 39 year old Xcelite 99SM roll tool kit? It's starting to
dry
out & crack, but it never turned to goo. I've had it since Augst '74
and
carried it on service calls for over a decade. A lot of oil was put on
those tools over the years.

I guess it's what is in the oil. I have a Service Master kit, too, and
most of two of their suitcase kits, and wouldn't trade them for the
world. You and I must've gotten into the trade at the same time. My
first (owned) one was around April of '74.

The only oil I ever got on my Xcelite tools was light non-detergent
"turbine oil", like sewing machine oil, since that's the stuff used in
most electronics. As you said truly enough, it never hurt it.

I've had peanut oil-based coolant wreck heavy vinyl in short order... and
I've had canopy-canvas of the sort on golf cart rain huts go bad from
exposure to regular high-detergent motor oil.

So I guess YMMV, depending upon the oil you get on it. It probably has
to do with whether or not the oil and the plasticizers are co-solvents.

Anybody else want to guess how a high-sulfur cutting oil will affect
vinyl? I'm still picking 'no good'.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
m:


Like my 39 year old Xcelite 99SM roll tool kit? It's starting to
dry
out & crack, but it never turned to goo. I've had it since Augst '74
and
carried it on service calls for over a decade. A lot of oil was put on
those tools over the years.

I guess it's what is in the oil. I have a Service Master kit, too, and
most of two of their suitcase kits, and wouldn't trade them for the
world. You and I must've gotten into the trade at the same time. My
first (owned) one was around April of '74.

I got my first Xcelite tools in the late '60s. That set was given to
me by another GI when I left the service. I was mad that he spent $50 on
a gift, but it sure earned its keep.

The only oil I ever got on my Xcelite tools was light non-detergent
"turbine oil", like sewing machine oil, since that's the stuff used in
most electronics. As you said truly enough, it never hurt it.

I have had a lot of different oils get on it, along with brake fluid
and numerous solvents.

I've had peanut oil-based coolant wreck heavy vinyl in short order... and
I've had canopy-canvas of the sort on golf cart rain huts go bad from
exposure to regular high-detergent motor oil.


I'll cut some test strips when I can get to the assorted chemicals in
the garage.

So I guess YMMV, depending upon the oil you get on it. It probably has
to do with whether or not the oil and the plasticizers are co-solvents.


The only documentation I can find on the material i get is a low
flammability certificate. Considering what little it costs me, and what
I intended to use it for, I really don't care. I was offering some
small pieces for whatever use, and for what it cost me to ship it. As
far as I can tell, there are three types of sheet and one of the
screening. They won't give me any details on it, other than complain
that their US supplier when bankrupt and how hard it is to purchase &
import. They have to buy each color by the pallet load per color. They
used to have about three dozens colors available but now its only a half
dozen at best.


Anybody else want to guess how a high-sulfur cutting oil will affect
vinyl? I'm still picking 'no good'.

LLoyd

On Sat, 02 Mar 2013 18:16:51 -0500, BQ340
wrote:

On 3/1/2013 8:56 AM, Ed Huntress wrote:


Nitric is much better for sharpening files. Yes, I've used both.
Nitric takes a faster bite, and seems to be less inclined to
preferentially round the cutting edge. It bites everywhere.

I hate having nitric anywhere in my house. I keep it in the garage.


They will be sharper after an acid bath, but they won't cut flat anymore.

MikeB

Right. It's a last-ditch procedure to give them a little more life for
rough work.

I haven't done it for 30 years, since I inherited a pile of new,
unused files.

--
Ed Huntress

On Sat, 2 Mar 2013 08:03:26 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Mar 2, 8:45*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:


*With golf balls as
handles, it's unlikely the files would fall through gawd! GOLF BALLS?

I know they're a couple of bux each, but what's wrong with a proper file
handle with a reinforced ferrule?

LLoyd

Nothing wrong with proper file handles. But I have a lot of files,
maybe 50 to 75, and golf balls actually work well. I get the golf
balls at garage sales at about 10 cents each. Drill a small hole in
the golf ball and force the tang into it. A lot better than no
handle. Try it before saying it is not reasonable.


Dan

Ive done just that..and it works surprisingly well!

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Sat, 02 Mar 2013 20:41:21 -0600, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" fired this volley in
om:


Like my 39 year old Xcelite 99SM roll tool kit? It's starting to
dry
out & crack, but it never turned to goo. I've had it since Augst '74
and
carried it on service calls for over a decade. A lot of oil was put on
those tools over the years.

I guess it's what is in the oil. I have a Service Master kit, too, and
most of two of their suitcase kits, and wouldn't trade them for the
world. You and I must've gotten into the trade at the same time. My
first (owned) one was around April of '74.

The only oil I ever got on my Xcelite tools was light non-detergent
"turbine oil", like sewing machine oil, since that's the stuff used in
most electronics. As you said truly enough, it never hurt it.

I've had peanut oil-based coolant wreck heavy vinyl in short order... and
I've had canopy-canvas of the sort on golf cart rain huts go bad from
exposure to regular high-detergent motor oil.

So I guess YMMV, depending upon the oil you get on it. It probably has
to do with whether or not the oil and the plasticizers are co-solvents.

Anybody else want to guess how a high-sulfur cutting oil will affect
vinyl? I'm still picking 'no good'.

LLoyd


I agree. My Service Master is still going strong..though I did
change out the case to a Chicago Poly Pro when it started getting too
small for the tools I need to have immediately on hand. Now the case
is in the inside shop on a shelf.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie