I have decided that it is not proper to call my business location a
warehouse. The proper name for it is factory, because it was built to
house machines that make stuff.

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

First, it is placed in its intended spot, with carpet under the legs.

Second, the outlet for the compressor was not hooked up, and I had to
do some digging and thinking to find the wires in one of the breaker
panels. That took about an hour to understand.

I put a heavy duty 30a disconnect ($5) on the wall and right now, the
motor is hooked up directly to the disconnect, for test purposes of
course. The compressor seems to run quietly enough to nor be
disturbing.

Next thing will be putting in a magnetic starter for it (should be
easy, once I get the conduit fittings). I have a starter on hand ($40).

After this, I need to connect the 175 CFM Pneumatech air dryer ($50)
to it.


The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

i

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 11 Oct 2011 04:04:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

If you end up in that situation, it can be fixed. All you have to
rework is the main trunk line larger, say a 1", and then when you
reconnect all the intermediate tap points you make the tees off the
mainline go UP off for 6" or so, then they go horizontal out to the
individual outlets. And they have a drip leg at the bottom with a
butterfly valve at the bottom.

You can rework the original 1/2" pipe that way too, if you never plan
on using more than one drop at a time. But you'd need to put all the
big draws like bead blast cabinets Right Next To the compressor.

Do the three ball valves (In - Bypass - Out) between the compressor
outlet, the Air Dryer, and the mainline - so you can cut it out of the
loop quick and easy if something goes wrong.

And when you get to the far end of the Mainline - that has
conveniently sloped downwards somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" a foot
or so from the high end at the compressor and air drier toward that
point, you put a drip-leg and a drain valve there too.

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

-- Bruce --

On 2011-10-11, DoN. Nichols wrote:
Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

Good point. I will do that. There is a lot of plumbing work to be
done, hooking up compressor to the dryer, dryer to the compressed air
system, etc.

i

On Oct 10, 10:03*pm, Ignoramus20811 ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20811.invalid wrote:
I have decided that it is not proper to call my business location a
warehouse. The proper name for it is factory, because it was built to
house machines that make stuff.


i

Heh, I refer to my 3800 sq ft of stuff as 'The Facility'. Used to be a
machine shop as well.

Weird how there was a machine shop out in the middle of just
cornfields, but that was the reagan era for you, the defense buildup
was so large there was (I have to assume by the existence of this
setup) an actual lack of machining capacity.

Dave

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:33:18 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On 11 Oct 2011 04:04:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

If you end up in that situation, it can be fixed. All you have to
rework is the main trunk line larger, say a 1", and then when you
reconnect all the intermediate tap points you make the tees off the
mainline go UP off for 6" or so, then they go horizontal out to the
individual outlets. And they have a drip leg at the bottom with a
butterfly valve at the bottom.

You can rework the original 1/2" pipe that way too, if you never plan
on using more than one drop at a time. But you'd need to put all the
big draws like bead blast cabinets Right Next To the compressor.

Do the three ball valves (In - Bypass - Out) between the compressor
outlet, the Air Dryer, and the mainline - so you can cut it out of the
loop quick and easy if something goes wrong.

And when you get to the far end of the Mainline - that has
conveniently sloped downwards somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" a foot
or so from the high end at the compressor and air drier toward that
point, you put a drip-leg and a drain valve there too.

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

-- Bruce --


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Sch 40 pipe will be expensivce enough, copper would require another
mortgage.

Randy
Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:33:50 -0400, Randy333
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:33:18 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

All tees? Good idea!


Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .


Sch 40 pipe will be expensivce enough, copper would require another
mortgage.

C'mon now. Iggy bought that property from pocket cash.
Or one month's Google ad income would pay for the pipe job.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:33:18 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On 11 Oct 2011 04:04:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

If you end up in that situation, it can be fixed. All you have to
rework is the main trunk line larger, say a 1", and then when you
reconnect all the intermediate tap points you make the tees off the
mainline go UP off for 6" or so, then they go horizontal out to the
individual outlets. And they have a drip leg at the bottom with a
butterfly valve at the bottom.

You can rework the original 1/2" pipe that way too, if you never plan
on using more than one drop at a time. But you'd need to put all the
big draws like bead blast cabinets Right Next To the compressor.

Do the three ball valves (In - Bypass - Out) between the compressor
outlet, the Air Dryer, and the mainline - so you can cut it out of the
loop quick and easy if something goes wrong.

And when you get to the far end of the Mainline - that has
conveniently sloped downwards somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" a foot
or so from the high end at the compressor and air drier toward that
point, you put a drip-leg and a drain valve there too.

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

-- Bruce --

Excellent post! Well stated!

Gunner, who does air lines in factorys just this way


"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:09:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .

Indeed. Ive made a point to NEVER use Galvanized pipe in any of the 100
or so air systems Ive designed and installed. This after repeatedly
having to unchoke or replace air solenoids that were
filled/blocked/ruined by flakes..sometimes BIG flakes of Galv.

Black pipe is cheaper, and while it may rust a bit more internally..it
reaches a point where little comes out of it..and when it does..is dust
that passes through such devices nicely. Particularly when one does
moisture control before the air reaches the plumbing.

Copper is best..but as Larry indicated...figure out which kid you like
the least, then sell him/her for the bucks to install it.

When a joint of 3/4 black, 20 feet long is $11 or less...its the most
viable candidate for most folks.

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:09:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .


Indeed. Ive made a point to NEVER use Galvanized pipe in any of the 100
or so air systems Ive designed and installed. This after repeatedly
having to unchoke or replace air solenoids that were
filled/blocked/ruined by flakes..sometimes BIG flakes of Galv.

Black pipe is cheaper, and while it may rust a bit more internally..it
reaches a point where little comes out of it..and when it does..is dust
that passes through such devices nicely. Particularly when one does
moisture control before the air reaches the plumbing.

Copper is best..but as Larry indicated...figure out which kid you like
the least, then sell him/her for the bucks to install it.

When a joint of 3/4 black, 20 feet long is $11 or less...its the most
viable candidate for most folks.

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

Why does the galv flake and is that inside or outside or both. I put
galv pipe handrails at my mothers place over ten years ago and the
external surface, while a bit weathered, is otherwise still perfect, I
tinned the cut ends with solder so no rust there either.

Does remind me of my dad building some boats in the early to mid 1970s
and the local hardware stores in Huntington Long Island, NY were having
difficulty getting decent hot dipped galvanised nails, most that came in
from cheap sources you would hit and the galv would flake off at the
first strike and their days were numbered, I think they were poor hot
dip or plated. The good ones you could hammer fully home and no problems
and you could rely on them lasting.

On 2011-10-11, David Billington wrote:
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:09:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .


Indeed. Ive made a point to NEVER use Galvanized pipe in any of the 100
or so air systems Ive designed and installed. This after repeatedly
having to unchoke or replace air solenoids that were
filled/blocked/ruined by flakes..sometimes BIG flakes of Galv.

[ ... ]

Why does the galv flake and is that inside or outside or both. I put
galv pipe handrails at my mothers place over ten years ago and the
external surface, while a bit weathered, is otherwise still perfect, I
tinned the cut ends with solder so no rust there either.

I *think* that it may be a combination of the high pressure air
(more oxygen available), and the cycling of pressure which expands the
pipe and allows it to contract. If it is partially the higher oxygen
partial pressure, I would expect the inside to flake a lot more than the
outside -- but if it is the pressure cycle expansion/contraction, I
would expect it to flake as much on the outside.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 22:57:23 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:09:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .

Why does the galv flake and is that inside or outside or both. I put
galv pipe handrails at my mothers place over ten years ago and the
external surface, while a bit weathered, is otherwise still perfect, I
tinned the cut ends with solder so no rust there either.

I've heard about it more than seen it. I think it's the pressure
fluctuations, plus the thread scraping during installation. That's
usually flushed out in the first water run if you use it for plumbing.
In air lines, it goes directly into the air tool or compressor intake
if not filtered.


Does remind me of my dad building some boats in the early to mid 1970s
and the local hardware stores in Huntington Long Island, NY were having
difficulty getting decent hot dipped galvanised nails, most that came in
from cheap sources you would hit and the galv would flake off at the
first strike and their days were numbered, I think they were poor hot
dip or plated. The good ones you could hammer fully home and no problems
and you could rely on them lasting.

I've had poorly plated galv nails which flaked tin all over the place.
The only clean galvanizing I've seen is on deck screws. IIRC, it's
called "micronized electroplating".


--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach

David Billington wrote:

Why does the galv flake and is that inside or outside or both. I put
galv pipe handrails at my mothers place over ten years ago and the
external surface, while a bit weathered, is otherwise still perfect, ...

Likely a matter of degree, and perception. It wouldn't have to flake
much to cause problems in air tools, but that same flaking on the
outside would not be noticed.

Bob

On 10/11/2011 12:46 PM, Ignoramus19425 wrote:
On 2011-10-11, Paul wrote:
On 10/10/2011 7:03 PM, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor

Where is the compressor located, floor wise? Is it on it's own
concrete pad separate from the rest of the floor. We have a 60
gallon air compressor, 3-phase, 4 cylinder compressor. Don't know
the HP. The cylinders are in a "V" configuration with a primary pair
and a secondary pair operating together. Don't know what you call
that.

However, the compressor is bolted to the floor in one corner of the
shop. When it operates, it vibrates the entire floor. I put 1" thick
rubber between the feet and floor and that helps a lot. Then built a two
sides soundproof wall around two sides. One side is hinged to be able to
service the compressor. Then replaced the solid pipe outlet connection
with a flexible connection bent into an "S" to absorb the vibration
transmitted to the air piping.


I did not bolt the compressor to the floor, but, instead, bolted it to
2x4s, which stand on carpet. Vibration is quite manageable.



You can still feel the vibration when it is running, but is very much
less than it originally had.

The correct installation would probably be on it's own concrete block,
outside the building and the concrete block surrounded with some type of
dampening material.

I don't think carpeting under the legs will do much for you. Especially
when it gets compressed over time.

I will keep an eye on this, I hope that I will be able to change these
things easily with the material handling options that are now
available to me.



Hockey pucks, pieces of truck tire tread, or other machine pads would be
the best thing to isolate the compressor to help with vibration and
"walking".

On 2011-10-13, DanG wrote:
On 10/11/2011 12:46 PM, Ignoramus19425 wrote:
On 2011-10-11, Paul wrote:
On 10/10/2011 7:03 PM, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor

Where is the compressor located, floor wise? Is it on it's own
concrete pad separate from the rest of the floor. We have a 60
gallon air compressor, 3-phase, 4 cylinder compressor. Don't know
the HP. The cylinders are in a "V" configuration with a primary pair
and a secondary pair operating together. Don't know what you call
that.

However, the compressor is bolted to the floor in one corner of the
shop. When it operates, it vibrates the entire floor. I put 1" thick
rubber between the feet and floor and that helps a lot. Then built a two
sides soundproof wall around two sides. One side is hinged to be able to
service the compressor. Then replaced the solid pipe outlet connection
with a flexible connection bent into an "S" to absorb the vibration
transmitted to the air piping.


I did not bolt the compressor to the floor, but, instead, bolted it to
2x4s, which stand on carpet. Vibration is quite manageable.



You can still feel the vibration when it is running, but is very much
less than it originally had.

The correct installation would probably be on it's own concrete block,
outside the building and the concrete block surrounded with some type of
dampening material.

I don't think carpeting under the legs will do much for you. Especially
when it gets compressed over time.

I will keep an eye on this, I hope that I will be able to change these
things easily with the material handling options that are now
available to me.



Hockey pucks, pieces of truck tire tread, or other machine pads would be
the best thing to isolate the compressor to help with vibration and
"walking".


Carpet also works great.

i

On 10/11/2011 10:18 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
//

I've had poorly plated galv nails which flaked tin all over the place.
The only clean galvanizing I've seen is on deck screws. IIRC, it's
called "micronized electroplating".


--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach


Cool, I did not know that!

On Thu, 13 Oct 2011 12:05:34 -0400, Tom Gardner mars@tacks wrote:

On 10/11/2011 10:18 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
//

I've had poorly plated galv nails which flaked tin all over the place.
The only clean galvanizing I've seen is on deck screws. IIRC, it's
called "micronized electroplating".

Cool, I did not know that!

The only problem is that it's not rated for PT lumber. Not thick
enough, evidently. I found that out after putting together a little
deck addition for a lady. Most of the wood was plain doug fir (her
cheaper choice) but the framing was PT. sigh

I guess it'd be fine for cedar or redwood decks.

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from folly
is to fill the world with fools.
-- Herbert Spencer

On Thu, 13 Oct 2011 06:29:17 -0500, Ignoramus21718
wrote:

On 2011-10-13, DanG wrote:

Hockey pucks, pieces of truck tire tread, or other machine pads would be
the best thing to isolate the compressor to help with vibration and
"walking".


Carpet also works great.

I made my own Isolation Mounts - a square washer under the compressor
foot like they use for bolting houses to the foundation, and a square
of 4 Mason "Super W Pads" (molded rubber pucks about 1-1/2" square,
1/2" thick) on each foot, with a hole punched in the middle of the
square for the anchor bolt.

Earthquake Country around here - a vertical compressor needs to be
bolted down, but not too tight. And as the entire east coast just
found out, EVERYWHERE is Earthquake Country to some degree.

The Mason Super W Pads are available at any air conditioning supply
house. You usually put one under each corner of a condensing unit on
it's pad, but they'll work like that under other free-standing things
like air dryers.

Now if you really want to do it right, you get the Mil-Spec Isolation
Mounts - not that Iggy would have a source for these or anything...

-- Bruce --
-

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I guess it'd be fine for cedar or redwood decks.


Not on one of mine, Larry... stainless fasteners only on those two woods.

LLoyd

On 2011-10-13, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Thu, 13 Oct 2011 06:29:17 -0500, Ignoramus21718
wrote:

On 2011-10-13, DanG wrote:

Hockey pucks, pieces of truck tire tread, or other machine pads would be
the best thing to isolate the compressor to help with vibration and
"walking".


Carpet also works great.

I made my own Isolation Mounts - a square washer under the compressor
foot like they use for bolting houses to the foundation, and a square
of 4 Mason "Super W Pads" (molded rubber pucks about 1-1/2" square,
1/2" thick) on each foot, with a hole punched in the middle of the
square for the anchor bolt.

Earthquake Country around here - a vertical compressor needs to be
bolted down, but not too tight. And as the entire east coast just
found out, EVERYWHERE is Earthquake Country to some degree.

The Mason Super W Pads are available at any air conditioning supply
house. You usually put one under each corner of a condensing unit on
it's pad, but they'll work like that under other free-standing things
like air dryers.

Now if you really want to do it right, you get the Mil-Spec Isolation
Mounts - not that Iggy would have a source for these or anything...

-- Bruce --
-

My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

The carpet is very plush.
i

On Thu, 13 Oct 2011 11:55:40 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

I guess it'd be fine for cedar or redwood decks.


Not on one of mine, Larry... stainless fasteners only on those two woods.

Any special reason? I understand that galv is safe with them as well
as PT lumber. What alloy do you use, and why?

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Any special reason? I understand that galv is safe with them as well
as PT lumber. What alloy do you use, and why?

I don't even _know_ the alloy, but they are guaranteed "non-staining" in
those woods. Anything else, including galvanized, makes dark, ugly stains
in the wood.

LLoyd

On Thu, 13 Oct 2011 19:23:23 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Any special reason? I understand that galv is safe with them as well
as PT lumber. What alloy do you use, and why?

I don't even _know_ the alloy, but they are guaranteed "non-staining" in
those woods. Anything else, including galvanized, makes dark, ugly stains
in the wood.

I didn't think the galv would stain. More research is in order.

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Any special reason? I understand that galv is safe with them as well
as PT lumber. What alloy do you use, and why?

I don't even _know_ the alloy, but they are guaranteed "non-staining" in
those woods. Anything else, including galvanized, makes dark, ugly stains
in the wood.

LLoyd

Absolutely true, galvanized will stain fairly quickly in cedar, even hot
dipped galvanized.

Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Any special reason? I understand that galv is safe with them as well
as PT lumber. What alloy do you use, and why?

I don't even _know_ the alloy, but they are guaranteed "non-staining" in
those woods. Anything else, including galvanized, makes dark, ugly stains
in the wood.

LLoyd


And with the added bonus that the current PT wood will eat just about
anything but stainless in less than a year. BTDT, got to completely
strip a 1 year old deck down and install all new fasteners because they
were failing real fast. The BIL who built the deck figured he was saving
money by using coated deck screws, even after being warned by 3
different people about the new PT chemicals.

--
Steve W.

Ignoramus21718 writes:


My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

My Atlas Copco 3-stage V compressor sits on 2x4s and they sit on 4
casters. Connection to the tank is hydraulic hose. It's a heavy cast
iron thing back in a corner. The casters not only eliminate vibration
to the shop, they also make it possible to wheel the thing out into
the shop to change belts or whatever, rather than standing on my head
back in a corner with a drop light.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:


Ignoramus21718 writes:


My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

My Atlas Copco 3-stage V compressor sits on 2x4s and they sit on 4
casters. Connection to the tank is hydraulic hose. It's a heavy cast
iron thing back in a corner. The casters not only eliminate vibration
to the shop, they also make it possible to wheel the thing out into
the shop to change belts or whatever, rather than standing on my head
back in a corner with a drop light.


This is clever. I hope that it does not dance around when in
operation.

Sounds like you would appreciate a 10,000 square foot building and a
big crane on wheels.

i

On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 22:57:23 +0100, David Billington
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:09:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .


Indeed. Ive made a point to NEVER use Galvanized pipe in any of the 100
or so air systems Ive designed and installed. This after repeatedly
having to unchoke or replace air solenoids that were
filled/blocked/ruined by flakes..sometimes BIG flakes of Galv.

Black pipe is cheaper, and while it may rust a bit more internally..it
reaches a point where little comes out of it..and when it does..is dust
that passes through such devices nicely. Particularly when one does
moisture control before the air reaches the plumbing.

Copper is best..but as Larry indicated...figure out which kid you like
the least, then sell him/her for the bucks to install it.

When a joint of 3/4 black, 20 feet long is $11 or less...its the most
viable candidate for most folks.

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

Why does the galv flake and is that inside or outside or both. I put
galv pipe handrails at my mothers place over ten years ago and the
external surface, while a bit weathered, is otherwise still perfect, I
tinned the cut ends with solder so no rust there either.

Inside tends to flake off as the pipe expands at the pressures used in
air systems..often 150-175psi




Does remind me of my dad building some boats in the early to mid 1970s
and the local hardware stores in Huntington Long Island, NY were having
difficulty getting decent hot dipped galvanised nails, most that came in
from cheap sources you would hit and the galv would flake off at the
first strike and their days were numbered, I think they were poor hot
dip or plated. The good ones you could hammer fully home and no problems
and you could rely on them lasting.


"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

Ignoramus17081 writes:

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:

Ignoramus21718 writes:

My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

My Atlas Copco 3-stage V compressor sits on 2x4s and they sit on 4
casters. Connection to the tank is hydraulic hose. It's a heavy
cast iron thing back in a corner. The casters not only eliminate
vibration to the shop, they also make it possible to wheel the
thing out into the shop to change belts or whatever, rather than
standing on my head back in a corner with a drop light.


This is clever. I hope that it does not dance around when in
operation.

Not to speak of. Locking casters seem to work well enough.

BTW, I'd dearly like to have a manual or exploded parts diagram for
the compressor. It's so old that Atlas Copco has no record of ever
having made it.

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp/atlas-copco.html

(I think I already got an answer here on r.c.m. to the blow-off problem
mentioned on that page but further opinions welcome.)

Sounds like you would appreciate a 10,000 square foot building and a
big crane on wheels.

New 30x40 shop was perfect 8 years ago. As of this year, I'm almost
wedged so another 1200 sq ft would be nice. 10,000 sq ft would be fun
but a bit in excess of my needs. I would love to have a bridge crane
on wheels with powered drives on everything. But present needs don't
justify the cost so I get by with a 2nd hand engine hoist and a couple
of come-alongs. [1] (I'm at the age where I no longer pick up 200#
anvils off the floor. :-)


[1] http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...tml#come-along


--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:


Ignoramus17081 writes:

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:

Ignoramus21718 writes:

My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

My Atlas Copco 3-stage V compressor sits on 2x4s and they sit on 4
casters. Connection to the tank is hydraulic hose. It's a heavy
cast iron thing back in a corner. The casters not only eliminate
vibration to the shop, they also make it possible to wheel the
thing out into the shop to change belts or whatever, rather than
standing on my head back in a corner with a drop light.


This is clever. I hope that it does not dance around when in
operation.

Not to speak of. Locking casters seem to work well enough.

BTW, I'd dearly like to have a manual or exploded parts diagram for
the compressor. It's so old that Atlas Copco has no record of ever
having made it.

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp/atlas-copco.html

(I think I already got an answer here on r.c.m. to the blow-off problem
mentioned on that page but further opinions welcome.)

Sounds like you would appreciate a 10,000 square foot building and a
big crane on wheels.

New 30x40 shop was perfect 8 years ago. As of this year, I'm almost
wedged so another 1200 sq ft would be nice. 10,000 sq ft would be fun
but a bit in excess of my needs. I would love to have a bridge crane
on wheels with powered drives on everything. But present needs don't
justify the cost so I get by with a 2nd hand engine hoist and a couple
of come-alongs. [1] (I'm at the age where I no longer pick up 200#
anvils off the floor. :-)


[1] http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...tml#come-along



I love the pictures of your projects! Please post more of them!

i

Ignoramus17081 writes:

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:

[1] http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...tml#come-along


I love the pictures of your projects!

That's nice. Thank you.

Please post more of them!

Just go to the root URL, http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer
and look at the "gallery" or "new shop" links.

And there are a few things in http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp
not linked anywhere else.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On Fri, 14 Oct 2011 22:32:45 -0500, Ignoramus17081
wrote:

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:


Ignoramus21718 writes:


My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

My Atlas Copco 3-stage V compressor sits on 2x4s and they sit on 4
casters. Connection to the tank is hydraulic hose. It's a heavy cast
iron thing back in a corner. The casters not only eliminate vibration
to the shop, they also make it possible to wheel the thing out into
the shop to change belts or whatever, rather than standing on my head
back in a corner with a drop light.


This is clever.

Great idea. I wonder how long the hyd hose lasts with that hot air
going through it.


I hope that it does not dance around when in operation.

Why would it? Most of the motion is rotary (heavy, well-balanced
flywheel), and the movement of the 2 pistons in the V somewhat cancel
each other out. But there's more than enough mass there to sink any
imbalance before it turned into dance material, da?


Sounds like you would appreciate a 10,000 square foot building and a
big crane on wheels.

Who here would NOT?

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Great idea. I wonder how long the hyd hose lasts with that hot air
going through it.

Mine has lasted 14 years without maintenance.

"Hot" air? My compressor is inter-cooled, and has a large storage tank.
The air leaving - even at full capacity - is only about 30F above ambient.

How long do hydraulic hoses last with "cold" hydraulic fluid running
through them (150F or better)?

LLoyd

On 15 Oct 2011 02:20:23 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:



Ignoramus17081 writes:

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:

Ignoramus21718 writes:

My horizontal compressor stands on carpet on 2x4s and it works great.

My Atlas Copco 3-stage V compressor sits on 2x4s and they sit on 4
casters. Connection to the tank is hydraulic hose. It's a heavy
cast iron thing back in a corner. The casters not only eliminate
vibration to the shop, they also make it possible to wheel the
thing out into the shop to change belts or whatever, rather than
standing on my head back in a corner with a drop light.


This is clever. I hope that it does not dance around when in
operation.

Not to speak of. Locking casters seem to work well enough.

BTW, I'd dearly like to have a manual or exploded parts diagram for
the compressor. It's so old that Atlas Copco has no record of ever
having made it.

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/temp/atlas-copco.html

(I think I already got an answer here on r.c.m. to the blow-off problem
mentioned on that page but further opinions welcome.)

Sounds like you would appreciate a 10,000 square foot building and a
big crane on wheels.

New 30x40 shop was perfect 8 years ago. As of this year, I'm almost
wedged so another 1200 sq ft would be nice. 10,000 sq ft would be fun
but a bit in excess of my needs.

Wall off what you don't need today so it doesn't have to be
conditioned.

I would love to have a bridge crane
on wheels with powered drives on everything. But present needs don't
justify the cost so I get by with a 2nd hand engine hoist and a couple
of come-alongs.

Ditto, though my HF hoist was new. Last use: stump puller, in
conjunction with a portable winch in the receiver on the back of my
truck.


(I'm at the age where I no longer pick up 200# anvils off the floor. :-)

Stings, doesn't it? I can no longer toss 200# transmissions over my
shoulder and walk them to the bench.

[1] http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...tml#come-along

Jeeze, I would have told that Monckton mutha where to stuff his
springs, then returned them, unopened, with a reeeeal nasty letter.

Then I'd have found a way to get the Chicago guys to get some to me.
I'd also tell the Chicago people about the totally unreasonable
increase to see if they could put some pressure to fire the Monckton
jerk. My sense of fairness gets shunted into ACTIVELY HOSTILE mode
when I hear things like that.

Or, if the springs just couldn't come from Chicago, I'd have found a
US or NS spring company to build them for me, or I'd have wound them
myself.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On 15 Oct 2011 03:29:08 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Ignoramus17081 writes:

On 2011-10-15, Mike Spencer wrote:

[1] http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...tml#come-along


I love the pictures of your projects!

That's nice. Thank you.

Please post more of them!

Just go to the root URL, http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer
and look at the "gallery" or "new shop" links.

Cool! I love your things from strange worlds. Conerl and Glitch
especially. Glitch is +2 for concept and form. Interface Gate II is
great. Organ of Corti? I hear ya. Crab and Heron are great. I think I
like your work of animals, near and far, the best. Kudos, Mike.
You are a true artist smithy.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 07:25:51 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Larry Jaques fired this volley in
:

Great idea. I wonder how long the hyd hose lasts with that hot air
going through it.

Mine has lasted 14 years without maintenance.

"Hot" air? My compressor is inter-cooled, and has a large storage tank.
The air leaving - even at full capacity - is only about 30F above ambient.

Intercooler good.


How long do hydraulic hoses last with "cold" hydraulic fluid running
through them (150F or better)?

I wonder if there's a difference in lifetimes.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 05:18:49 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:



This is clever.

Great idea. I wonder how long the hyd hose lasts with that hot air
going through it.

Mine has lasted 24 yrs so far....shrug


"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

Larry Jaques writes:

On 15 Oct 2011 03:29:08 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

Just go to the root URL, http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer
and look at the "gallery" or "new shop" links.

Cool! I love your things from strange worlds. Conerl and Glitch
especially. Glitch is +2 for concept and form. Interface Gate II is
great. Organ of Corti? I hear ya. Crab and Heron are great. I think I
like your work of animals, near and far, the best. Kudos, Mike.
You are a true artist smithy.

Kind words. Thank you. (And of course, I hadda quote all your kind
words here. One never gets enough kind words. :-)

Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative effort.
-- Franklin D. Roosevelt

Right.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada