I have decided that it is not proper to call my business location a
warehouse. The proper name for it is factory, because it was built to
house machines that make stuff.

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

First, it is placed in its intended spot, with carpet under the legs.

Second, the outlet for the compressor was not hooked up, and I had to
do some digging and thinking to find the wires in one of the breaker
panels. That took about an hour to understand.

I put a heavy duty 30a disconnect ($5) on the wall and right now, the
motor is hooked up directly to the disconnect, for test purposes of
course. The compressor seems to run quietly enough to nor be
disturbing.

Next thing will be putting in a magnetic starter for it (should be
easy, once I get the conduit fittings). I have a starter on hand ($40).

After this, I need to connect the 175 CFM Pneumatech air dryer ($50)
to it.


The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

i

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 11 Oct 2011 04:04:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

If you end up in that situation, it can be fixed. All you have to
rework is the main trunk line larger, say a 1", and then when you
reconnect all the intermediate tap points you make the tees off the
mainline go UP off for 6" or so, then they go horizontal out to the
individual outlets. And they have a drip leg at the bottom with a
butterfly valve at the bottom.

You can rework the original 1/2" pipe that way too, if you never plan
on using more than one drop at a time. But you'd need to put all the
big draws like bead blast cabinets Right Next To the compressor.

Do the three ball valves (In - Bypass - Out) between the compressor
outlet, the Air Dryer, and the mainline - so you can cut it out of the
loop quick and easy if something goes wrong.

And when you get to the far end of the Mainline - that has
conveniently sloped downwards somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" a foot
or so from the high end at the compressor and air drier toward that
point, you put a drip-leg and a drain valve there too.

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

-- Bruce --

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:33:18 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On 11 Oct 2011 04:04:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

If you end up in that situation, it can be fixed. All you have to
rework is the main trunk line larger, say a 1", and then when you
reconnect all the intermediate tap points you make the tees off the
mainline go UP off for 6" or so, then they go horizontal out to the
individual outlets. And they have a drip leg at the bottom with a
butterfly valve at the bottom.

You can rework the original 1/2" pipe that way too, if you never plan
on using more than one drop at a time. But you'd need to put all the
big draws like bead blast cabinets Right Next To the compressor.

Do the three ball valves (In - Bypass - Out) between the compressor
outlet, the Air Dryer, and the mainline - so you can cut it out of the
loop quick and easy if something goes wrong.

And when you get to the far end of the Mainline - that has
conveniently sloped downwards somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" a foot
or so from the high end at the compressor and air drier toward that
point, you put a drip-leg and a drain valve there too.

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

-- Bruce --


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Sch 40 pipe will be expensivce enough, copper would require another
mortgage.

Randy
Remove 333 to reply.
Randy

On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:33:50 -0400, Randy333
wrote:

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:33:18 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

All tees? Good idea!


Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .


Sch 40 pipe will be expensivce enough, copper would require another
mortgage.

C'mon now. Iggy bought that property from pocket cash.
Or one month's Google ad income would pay for the pipe job.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Tue, 11 Oct 2011 06:09:12 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Why black pipe? We're not doing nat. gas here. I used all 3/4"
galv steel for my main and 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 tee's UP, then two 90 deg
street el's and 1/2" down to my outlet, ball valve and Q/C.

Galv flakes a lot. I hope you use a FLR on each drop, with or without
lube. F'rinstance http://goo.gl/2yi3z .

Indeed. Ive made a point to NEVER use Galvanized pipe in any of the 100
or so air systems Ive designed and installed. This after repeatedly
having to unchoke or replace air solenoids that were
filled/blocked/ruined by flakes..sometimes BIG flakes of Galv.

Black pipe is cheaper, and while it may rust a bit more internally..it
reaches a point where little comes out of it..and when it does..is dust
that passes through such devices nicely. Particularly when one does
moisture control before the air reaches the plumbing.

Copper is best..but as Larry indicated...figure out which kid you like
the least, then sell him/her for the bucks to install it.

When a joint of 3/4 black, 20 feet long is $11 or less...its the most
viable candidate for most folks.

Gunner

"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

On Mon, 10 Oct 2011 22:33:18 -0700, "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human
readable)" wrote:

On 11 Oct 2011 04:04:57 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2011-10-11, Ignoramus20811 wrote:

[ ... ]

That said, I am about half done hooking up the compressor. The
compressor is a 10 HP Quincy model 350 compressor, ($200). My home 7.5
HP one will soon be sold.

[ ... ]

The shop does have compressed air plumbing, although it is somewhat
undersized, all pipes are 1/2". But I can live with it.

Once you get it running, find the most distant air outlets, and
run them until the water stops flowing. Them move towards the
compressor, repeating with the other outlets. Finally, check back at
the end to make sure that none snuck by while you were draining the
other outlets.

Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

If you end up in that situation, it can be fixed. All you have to
rework is the main trunk line larger, say a 1", and then when you
reconnect all the intermediate tap points you make the tees off the
mainline go UP off for 6" or so, then they go horizontal out to the
individual outlets. And they have a drip leg at the bottom with a
butterfly valve at the bottom.

You can rework the original 1/2" pipe that way too, if you never plan
on using more than one drop at a time. But you'd need to put all the
big draws like bead blast cabinets Right Next To the compressor.

Do the three ball valves (In - Bypass - Out) between the compressor
outlet, the Air Dryer, and the mainline - so you can cut it out of the
loop quick and easy if something goes wrong.

And when you get to the far end of the Mainline - that has
conveniently sloped downwards somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8" a foot
or so from the high end at the compressor and air drier toward that
point, you put a drip-leg and a drain valve there too.

And you don't put Any plain couplings At All in the new Black Steel
Pipe mainline - they're all Tees with the unused spigot pointing up
and plugged. That way you don't have to take the whole thing apart
again if you want to add a drop. Threaded Pipe is always a pain in
the arse that way.

Me, I'd use Brazed Copper all the way - you want to add a tee, it's
not an issue. Cut and braze when and where needed. And make the taps
go UP the same way, so any water that condenses out gets left behind.

-- Bruce --

Excellent post! Well stated!

Gunner, who does air lines in factorys just this way


"In the history of mankind, there have always been men and women who's goal
in life is to take down nations. We have just elected such a man to run our
country." - David Lloyyd (2008)

On 2011-10-11, DoN. Nichols wrote:
Remember -- just because *you* are installing an air dryer,
there is no certainty that the previous owners did. You may be lucky,
and find out that they did.

I remember when I used to work for a certain company in this
area, if you started to use an air drop which had just been hanging
there for a while, you had to expect to get a lot of water out of it
before you got any air.

Good point. I will do that. There is a lot of plumbing work to be
done, hooking up compressor to the dryer, dryer to the compressed air
system, etc.

i

On Oct 10, 10:03*pm, Ignoramus20811 ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20811.invalid wrote:
I have decided that it is not proper to call my business location a
warehouse. The proper name for it is factory, because it was built to
house machines that make stuff.


i

Heh, I refer to my 3800 sq ft of stuff as 'The Facility'. Used to be a
machine shop as well.

Weird how there was a machine shop out in the middle of just
cornfields, but that was the reagan era for you, the defense buildup
was so large there was (I have to assume by the existence of this
setup) an actual lack of machining capacity.

Dave