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#1
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:31:56 -0700, Terra Arcane wrote:
I noticed the water level inside the light fixture was half way on one light; in the other three I couldn't tell so it must be 100% full. Correction: On the other two, it appears they were 100% empty of water. Now that I replaced the gasket on the light that was (strangely) 1/2 full of water, the GFCI no longer trips because the third light is now also empty of water (kept out by the rubber gasket and tons of silicone goop). It's weird that it was only 1/2 full (and not 100% full since the whole light assembly is submerged) ... and I wasn't sure how tight to tighten the steel band that holds the glass onto the rubber seal onto the steel light fixture. I made it VERY TIGHT but I was afraid I would shatter the glass. How do you know when it's enough tightening on the two-inch-long bolt for the steel band? |
#2
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
On Sat, 3 Jul 2010 22:47:27 -0700, Terra Arcane wrote:
I made it VERY TIGHT but I was afraid I would shatter the glass. How do you know when it's enough tightening on the two-inch-long bolt for the steel band? According to this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2h0BqTSAMO8) which shows a light exactly like mine (except a lot cleaner), the guy says "in my opinion, you can't tighten the bolt too tight". So I guess I did the right thing (the glass didn't shatter and it didn't leak. But I can see why you'd have to replace the $15 gasket each time because that steel band compresses it quite tightly when snug as far as it will turn. |
#3
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
"Terra Arcane" wrote in message ... On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:31:56 -0700, Terra Arcane wrote: I noticed the water level inside the light fixture was half way on one light; in the other three I couldn't tell so it must be 100% full. Correction: On the other two, it appears they were 100% empty of water. Now that I replaced the gasket on the light that was (strangely) 1/2 full of water, the GFCI no longer trips because the third light is now also empty of water (kept out by the rubber gasket and tons of silicone goop). It's weird that it was only 1/2 full (and not 100% full since the whole light assembly is submerged) ... and I wasn't sure how tight to tighten the steel band that holds the glass onto the rubber seal onto the steel light fixture. I made it VERY TIGHT but I was afraid I would shatter the glass. How do you know when it's enough tightening on the two-inch-long bolt for the steel band? It was only half full because the leak was on the bottom of the fixture. I generally recommend replacing the entire fixture. In my experience, pool maintenance companies never seem to be able to reseal these things, and invariably they leak again. Possibly they're trying to use the old gasket, so hopefully you'll have better luck |
#4
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
wrote in message ... On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:47:54 -0400, "RBM" wrote: "Terra Arcane" wrote in message ... On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 14:31:56 -0700, Terra Arcane wrote: I noticed the water level inside the light fixture was half way on one light; in the other three I couldn't tell so it must be 100% full. Correction: On the other two, it appears they were 100% empty of water. Now that I replaced the gasket on the light that was (strangely) 1/2 full of water, the GFCI no longer trips because the third light is now also empty of water (kept out by the rubber gasket and tons of silicone goop). It's weird that it was only 1/2 full (and not 100% full since the whole light assembly is submerged) ... and I wasn't sure how tight to tighten the steel band that holds the glass onto the rubber seal onto the steel light fixture. I made it VERY TIGHT but I was afraid I would shatter the glass. How do you know when it's enough tightening on the two-inch-long bolt for the steel band? It was only half full because the leak was on the bottom of the fixture. I generally recommend replacing the entire fixture. In my experience, pool maintenance companies never seem to be able to reseal these things, and invariably they leak again. Possibly they're trying to use the old gasket, so hopefully you'll have better luck The manufactures all say if you open the light, you replace the gasket. They are a one shot deal. I've never messed with one myself. Typically I get a call that the pool lights aren't working, I find and disconnect the offending fixture from it's deck box and have the customer have their pool maintenance company fix or replace it, then I reconnect it. Whenever it was "fixed", they leak, so I've just been telling customers to have them replaced, which ultimately probably saves time and money. |
#5
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
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#6
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:47:54 -0400, RBM wrote:
It was only half full because the leak was on the bottom of the fixture. That makes sense. The air in the "niche" probably couldn't escape so that prevented more water from coming in. There is no "pool maintenance" company. I bought the house as a foreclosure and the pool was green with scum in it. I cleaned it all out but never owned a pool before so I had to figure out how the pipes went. I removed all the lights when I cleaned the pool to clean out the scum, and then after that, they would blow the GFCI after five minutes. So, I think it was my fault all along; I shouldn't have re-used the gaskets. There's sooooo much to learn. I don't even know what all the bottom fixtures are. I googled and googled and learned what I could. Is there any way to get the old diagrams of the pool? |
#7
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
wrote in message ... On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 10:55:40 -0400, "RBM" wrote: The manufactures all say if you open the light, you replace the gasket. They are a one shot deal. I've never messed with one myself. Typically I get a call that the pool lights aren't working, I find and disconnect the offending fixture from it's deck box and have the customer have their pool maintenance company fix or replace it, then I reconnect it. Whenever it was "fixed", they leak, so I've just been telling customers to have them replaced, which ultimately probably saves time and money. If they think "fixing" means tightening up the ring, it isn't fixed. Replacing the gasket should fix it if the ring and shell were not damaged by other attempts to fix it. I agree, my guess is that there are a number of manufacturers and models, and these pool maintenance companies would rather not take the time to locate the replacement gasket, so they try to reuse the old ones, and maybe add a little silicone sealant |
#8
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Should a pool light bulb be touching water only halfway (half in, half out)?
"Terra Arcane" wrote in message ... On Sun, 4 Jul 2010 09:47:54 -0400, RBM wrote: It was only half full because the leak was on the bottom of the fixture. That makes sense. The air in the "niche" probably couldn't escape so that prevented more water from coming in. There is no "pool maintenance" company. I bought the house as a foreclosure and the pool was green with scum in it. I cleaned it all out but never owned a pool before so I had to figure out how the pipes went. I removed all the lights when I cleaned the pool to clean out the scum, and then after that, they would blow the GFCI after five minutes. So, I think it was my fault all along; I shouldn't have re-used the gaskets. There's sooooo much to learn. I don't even know what all the bottom fixtures are. I googled and googled and learned what I could. Is there any way to get the old diagrams of the pool? Just find a neighbor with a pool. In a few minutes you'll understand it all. You probably shouldn't have pulled everything apart to clean it though. I bought my house about 14 years ago, from an estate, and the pool looked like green jello. The trick is to just dump $100 worth of chemicals in it, then filter the hell out of it. You're in for a real treat with your new money pit. All it takes is a few hundred dollars each year, provided you do all the work yourself, and then every three or four years, you have to go for a few thousand dollars, then eventually, just when you get good at it, your pool looks like mine does now, and then you go for your lungs. http://picasaweb.google.com/10911899...eat=directlink |
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