I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

Steve B wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

Install threaded inserts into the floor at the appropriate places. Use
through holes for easy clearing if the holes will not cause a problem
with bugs or airflow.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=90192A127

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!


If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

"Sunworshipper" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!


If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve

On Aug 17, 9:51*am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Sunworshipper" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. *I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. *Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? *I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. *I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. *I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. *I do not want to use lags.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks
of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the
floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be.
You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so
they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light
woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could
maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at
Ace.

Stan

On Aug 17, 10:50*am, "Steve B" wrote:
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. *I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. *Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? *I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. *I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. *I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

McFeelys has Tee-nuts up to 1/2 - 13
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-...Steel-Tee-Nuts

If you're worried about the holes getting clogged, you could put bolts
(setscrews, if you want to stay flush) in the unused ones.

--Well it's not ideal but if you go to a store that sells
accessories for trailers you can get those slotted widgets (that are screwed
to wood decks) that accept quick-connect rings. Then attach a load binder or
two and you've got a real rigid attachment point. Comes apart fast too;
there's just the problem of the load binder getting in the way of what
you're doing but that shouldn't be too bad if you position 'em towards the back
of the tool, yes?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : A human without a critter
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : is incomplete..
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly.
snip

If the flooring is Oak of sufficient thickness, properly sized lag bolts
would be the simple solution. I don't see the need for anything elaborate.
The table saw & the router table don't transfer significant (shear) loads to
the floor. The bender should have a base plate large enough for the correct
number of bolts so it spreads the load out. If you still need something more
you can use threaded inserts, my local hardware has them up to 1/2" ( takes
a 1/2" 13 tpi bolt) on the shelf.

Andrew

steamer wrote:

--Well it's not ideal but if you go to a store that sells
accessories for trailers you can get those slotted widgets (that are screwed
to wood decks) that accept quick-connect rings. Then attach a load binder or
two and you've got a real rigid attachment point. Comes apart fast too;
there's just the problem of the load binder getting in the way of what
you're doing but that shouldn't be too bad if you position 'em towards the back
of the tool, yes?

E-Track? On a floor???

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 09:40:51 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Aug 17, 10:50*am, "Steve B" wrote:
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. *I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. *Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? *I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. *I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. *I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

McFeelys has Tee-nuts up to 1/2 - 13
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-...Steel-Tee-Nuts

If you're worried about the holes getting clogged, you could put bolts
(setscrews, if you want to stay flush) in the unused ones.

Stainless too, nice.

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B" wrote:
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around
router table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor,
but be able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of
T-bolts that I can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female
anchor in there flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room
around it to blow out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table
on a base, table saw, and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think
if I use a lag, the hole will wallow in the wood. I could take some
square plate, cut some vent blow holes, drill it, weld a nut on the
underside, rout out a place on the floor, and mount that with
countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything available that
was pre made that I could just slam down.
....

Instead of routing the inset holes on the floor, you could use a
Forstner bit. Common lockset sizes like 2.125 or 2.375 might be
good; see [1]. You could use large-diameter filler covers (above
the thinner hole threaded for your hold-down bolts) like those
used in floor box covers, see [2]. You could buy large-diameter
set-screws, or maybe make them by cutting sections from a foot of
1" all-thread, but some electrical suppliers have nice threaded
knockout filler plugs, which I can't find online at the moment.
See [3, 4] for some lesser imitations.

[1] http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forsbit.htm
[2] http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-P60DU-Floor-Cover/dp/B000HEIXPS
[3] http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/electrical-box-cover-accessories/electrical-boxes/electrical/ecatalog/N-bt5ZbjwZ1z0pyir?L1=Generators%252C&L2=Automatic+St andby&op=search&operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch &originalValue=briggs+generator&sst=All
[4] http://www.garvinindustries.com/electrical-junction-boxes/box-installation-accessories/knockout-seals-%28snap-in-style%29

--
jiw

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 11:54:42 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


steamer wrote:

--Well it's not ideal but if you go to a store that sells
accessories for trailers you can get those slotted widgets (that are screwed
to wood decks) that accept quick-connect rings. Then attach a load binder or
two and you've got a real rigid attachment point. Comes apart fast too;
there's just the problem of the load binder getting in the way of what
you're doing but that shouldn't be too bad if you position 'em towards the back
of the tool, yes?

E-Track? On a floor???

"The Kid" made a trailer deck that has two rows of Etrack that he
liberated from my semi trailer. Very handy. But, its open below. I
think it would be a dirt and swarf magent for a permanent floor.

Karl

wrote in message
...
On Aug 17, 9:51 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Sunworshipper" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to
blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks
of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the
floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be.
You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so
they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light
woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could
maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at
Ace.

Stan

Where I live is on top of sand dunes, essentially. I blow and vacuum out my
container weekly. My concern is keeping them clean enough to use, and not
letting them get sand in there where they can get moist and rust. How would
you use a T nut when you can't get behind the board?

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:51:37 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Sunworshipper" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table

I think if I use a lag, the

hole
will wallow in the wood.

Sounds like you might. Would work for at least 2-3 times.


blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!


If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve

wrote in message
...
On Aug 17, 9:51 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Sunworshipper" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to
blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks
of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the
floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be.
You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so
they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light
woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could
maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at
Ace.

Stan

ZAP! Just had an idea. Maybe some of those D ring things with plates that
they sell at truck places. Use with four mini binders for some equipment,
but I would have to have something sturdier for the bender.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

"steamer" wrote in message
...
--Well it's not ideal but if you go to a store that sells
accessories for trailers you can get those slotted widgets (that are
screwed
to wood decks) that accept quick-connect rings. Then attach a load binder
or
two and you've got a real rigid attachment point. Comes apart fast too;
there's just the problem of the load binder getting in the way of what
you're doing but that shouldn't be too bad if you position 'em towards the
back
of the tool, yes?

--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : A human without a critter
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : is incomplete..
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

Yes, a plausible alternative except for bender. But then, I might just put
that outside anchored in concrete so I can put some torque on it.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

"EIsmith" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly.
snip

If the flooring is Oak of sufficient thickness, properly sized lag bolts
would be the simple solution. I don't see the need for anything elaborate.
The table saw & the router table don't transfer significant (shear) loads
to the floor. The bender should have a base plate large enough for the
correct number of bolts so it spreads the load out. If you still need
something more you can use threaded inserts, my local hardware has them up
to 1/2" ( takes a 1/2" 13 tpi bolt) on the shelf.

Andrew

My shop bender is about three feet high with an extendable bender arm that
goes out to about five feet. The base is no more than 12" square. I know
by looking at it that I could overpower it. Your idea about threaded
inserts is good, it's just that I would have a hard time keeping them clean,
as I get a lot of sand in my shop. Kinda wanted to rout out a big enough
area under the attachment so that there would be a constant airspace, and
sand/moisture buildup could not accelerate electrolysis.

I kinda think I already know what I'm going to do, just looking for
something prefab that I can slap down and go.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

"Spehro Pefhany" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 09:40:51 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
wrote:

On Aug 17, 10:50 am, "Steve B" wrote:
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to
blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

McFeelys has Tee-nuts up to 1/2 - 13
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-...Steel-Tee-Nuts

If you're worried about the holes getting clogged, you could put bolts
(setscrews, if you want to stay flush) in the unused ones.

Stainless too, nice.

Now, that's a thought.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

James Waldby wrote:
On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B" wrote:
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around
router table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the
floor, but be able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some
type of T-bolts that I can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put
the female anchor in there flush with the floor, secure it in, and
have enough room around it to blow out chips once I take it loose?
I have a router table on a base, table saw, and metal bender I'd
like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole will wallow
in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on
the floor, and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if
there was anything available that was pre made that I could just
slam down.
...

Instead of routing the inset holes on the floor, you could use a
Forstner bit.

I have a set of those , they range in size from 1/4" to 1.5" . Any bigger
than that and I'd have it in a drill press - and I prefer to use even the
small ones that way . Tried a couple of bigger bits freehand once ... *ONCE*
.. They have a very nasty tendency to walk unless you're perfectly square
with the surface being drilled , and even then it can be iffy .
Use a hole saw and chisel the bottom flat by hand . It's much safer that
way , and you end up with a nearly-perfectly-centered pilot hole for
whatever threaded insert you end up using .
--
Snag
Wannabe Machinist

Steve B wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Aug 17, 9:51 am, "Steve B" wrote:
"Sunworshipper" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to
blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. Chunks
of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the
floor. Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be.
You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so
they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. If it's just light
woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could
maybe get by with 1/4-20s. Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at
Ace.

Stan

ZAP! Just had an idea. Maybe some of those D ring things with plates that
they sell at truck places. Use with four mini binders for some equipment,
but I would have to have something sturdier for the bender.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

Threaded inserts such as the ones I pointed out on McMaster are easy to
install, and don't make an appreciable difference in the floor surface,
something that is important if you roll stuff around or need a flat
floor for layout.

Steve B wrote:

"EIsmith" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly.
snip

If the flooring is Oak of sufficient thickness, properly sized lag bolts
would be the simple solution. I don't see the need for anything elaborate.
The table saw & the router table don't transfer significant (shear) loads
to the floor. The bender should have a base plate large enough for the
correct number of bolts so it spreads the load out. If you still need
something more you can use threaded inserts, my local hardware has them up
to 1/2" ( takes a 1/2" 13 tpi bolt) on the shelf.

Andrew

My shop bender is about three feet high with an extendable bender arm that
goes out to about five feet. The base is no more than 12" square. I know
by looking at it that I could overpower it. Your idea about threaded
inserts is good, it's just that I would have a hard time keeping them clean,
as I get a lot of sand in my shop. Kinda wanted to rout out a big enough
area under the attachment so that there would be a constant airspace, and
sand/moisture buildup could not accelerate electrolysis.

I kinda think I already know what I'm going to do, just looking for
something prefab that I can slap down and go.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

You get sand in your shop anyway, so having the holes open below
shouldn't be an issue. Use the threaded inserts with through holes, i.e.
drill the appropriate hole size for the insert all the way through the
floor then thread in the insert. Sand and dirt will fall through leaving
the insert clean.

"Steve B" fired this volley in
news

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around


Hey, Steve.

You need to watch out for one thing, and I mean this.

1) those floors aren't oak, they're usually a tropical mahogany or
mahogany-like wood. By themselves, their sawdusts are somewhat
poisonous.

2) almost all containers that originated in China (and most do, sorry),
have floor wood that has been saturation-treated with Chlordane. It's a
"hard" poison that will not deteriorate in the soil.

So don't breathe the sawdust! (but DO scratch it into the soil around
the foundation of your house... GGG)

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Steve B" fired this volley in
news

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around


Hey, Steve.

You need to watch out for one thing, and I mean this.

1) those floors aren't oak, they're usually a tropical mahogany or
mahogany-like wood. By themselves, their sawdusts are somewhat
poisonous.

2) almost all containers that originated in China (and most do, sorry),
have floor wood that has been saturation-treated with Chlordane. It's a
"hard" poison that will not deteriorate in the soil.

So don't breathe the sawdust! (but DO scratch it into the soil around
the foundation of your house... GGG)

LLoyd

On the plate outside the container, it states that it has chlordane in it.
I never thought about scattering the sawdust around.

I rented a country house in the 70's in southern Louisiana. We had fire
ants, and I mean hills the size of washtubs. My veterinarian landlord
brought me a Mason jar of white granules. He said to use about four grains
per ant hill, and that it was chlordane, something that was outlawed. That
stuff worked very well. It was a yearly ritual with the new queens flying
in, but it did help a lot. I'll remember to keep the sawdust. Thanks. I
would have never thought of it, even though I did see it on the container
label.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

Karl Townsend wrote:
"The Kid" made a trailer deck that has two rows of Etrack that he
liberated from my semi trailer. Very handy. But, its open below. I
think it would be a dirt and swarf magent for a permanent floor.
--Nothing an air gun couldn't fix.. ;-)


--
"Steamboat Ed" Haas : A human without a critter
Hacking the Trailing Edge! : is incomplete..
www.nmpproducts.com
---Decks a-wash in a sea of words---

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:03:04 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

"Steve B" fired this volley in
news

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around


Hey, Steve.

You need to watch out for one thing, and I mean this.

1) those floors aren't oak, they're usually a tropical mahogany or
mahogany-like wood. By themselves, their sawdusts are somewhat
poisonous.

2) almost all containers that originated in China (and most do, sorry),
have floor wood that has been saturation-treated with Chlordane. It's a
"hard" poison that will not deteriorate in the soil.

So don't breathe the sawdust! (but DO scratch it into the soil around
the foundation of your house... GGG)

LLoyd

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"Steve B" wrote in message
...

"EIsmith" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly.
snip

If the flooring is Oak of sufficient thickness, properly sized lag bolts
would be the simple solution. I don't see the need for anything
elaborate. The table saw & the router table don't transfer significant
(shear) loads to the floor. The bender should have a base plate large
enough for the correct number of bolts so it spreads the load out. If you
still need something more you can use threaded inserts, my local hardware
has them up to 1/2" ( takes a 1/2" 13 tpi bolt) on the shelf.

Andrew

My shop bender is about three feet high with an extendable bender arm that
goes out to about five feet. The base is no more than 12" square. I know
by looking at it that I could overpower it.

Add alignment pins to the base that fit in pipe sleeves that you place in
the floor. The lags will keep it anchored and the pins will handle the
torque of the bender.
I have a buddy that has a Hossfeld lagged to the floor of his barn it works
ok with the cro molly tubing for race car frames.

Andrew

"Pinstripe Sniper" wrote in message
...
"Steve B" wrote:
I have two containers with oak (?) flooring.

I don't have any advice about your anchoring problem but I do have a
few questions.

First off, you are talking about shipping containers right? Like 20
feet long x 8 ft wide and 8 ft high (unless you got an extra high?)

So would it be worth it to tip these on their side for easy bottom
access and install some anchors?

Are your Summers hot? You going to do any fun mods like a thin sheet
metal roof "skin" to act as a sun shield? How about a water puddle
roof? Wood siding and a faux painted window? (rompe-l'oeil)
World's biggest dog house? (could attract punk vandals and tourists)

How about a dust blow out system? Install some hard line around the
bottom perimeter with some blow off nozzles angled "just right" to
blow fine dust out the door. Might need a pretty big pressure tank
and larger diameter hose. Maybe do it in sections? Deepest 1/3,
middle third, door third?

PsS

I have two twenty footers. I have bought a lot of corrugated steel, and am
going to put a roof over it about a foot up, just for shade. I had thought
about a flowing water system for cooling. It does get hot in there, but I
wonder about the rust. I am going to paint the same as the iron ore sand
dunes, and paint cactuses and bushes on them to have them blend into the
countryside. I would use some old barnwood, as we get a lot around here,
but that would just be a nest for the scorpions and spiders. I live way
out, and driving up, having them blend in would look nice. Ah, another day,
another project. I hope to make some big money soon on my book, and then I
can call someone and have all this done while I'm away on a cruise or in
Kauai.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last

"Gunner Asch" wrote

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner


I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed
cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do
catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat
traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of
either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:59:58 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner


I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed
cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do
catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat
traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of
either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last


From a thread in 2009


"Only if you are feline. Chlordane tended to make cats go goofy. While
it didnt usually..usually kill them...it tended to make them badly
fugazzi...

http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/pagerender.fcgi?artid=1585739&pageindex=2"

Gunner



--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:08:11 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Steve B wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

Install threaded inserts into the floor at the appropriate places. Use
through holes for easy clearing if the holes will not cause a problem
with bugs or airflow.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=90192A127

Excellent idea, Pete. For bug-free operation, countersink the holes
1/4" and fill with cap head mach screws when not in service. Nice and
flush.

--
We're all here because we're not all there.

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 12:26:38 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
.3.70...
"Steve B" fired this volley in
news

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around


Hey, Steve.

You need to watch out for one thing, and I mean this.

1) those floors aren't oak, they're usually a tropical mahogany or
mahogany-like wood. By themselves, their sawdusts are somewhat
poisonous.

2) almost all containers that originated in China (and most do, sorry),
have floor wood that has been saturation-treated with Chlordane. It's a
"hard" poison that will not deteriorate in the soil.

So don't breathe the sawdust! (but DO scratch it into the soil around
the foundation of your house... GGG)

I did the occasional chlordane treatments and had very few external
pests around my old house.


On the plate outside the container, it states that it has chlordane in it.
I never thought about scattering the sawdust around.

I rented a country house in the 70's in southern Louisiana. We had fire
ants, and I mean hills the size of washtubs. My veterinarian landlord
brought me a Mason jar of white granules. He said to use about four grains
per ant hill, and that it was chlordane, something that was outlawed. That
stuff worked very well. It was a yearly ritual with the new queens flying
in, but it did help a lot. I'll remember to keep the sawdust. Thanks. I
would have never thought of it, even though I did see it on the container
label.

Wow, powerful stuff when used that way.

Oh, for inserts, Drill, countersink, and hex 'em in. Try this style:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=8ggcma

T-nuts will work, but they'll _fall_out_ the first time you put any
pressure on the bolt. Not recommended.

--
We're all here because we're not all there.

On Aug 17, 11:40*am, "Steve B" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 17, 9:51 am, "Steve B" wrote:





"Sunworshipper" wrote in message

.. .

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 07:50:22 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:

I have two containers with oak (?) flooring. I have a roll around router
table, and a small table saw that I'd like to mount to the floor, but be
able to unmount it quickly. Where can I find some type of t bolts that I
can drill an oversized hole in the wood, put the female anchor in there
flush with the floor, secure it in, and have enough room around it to
blow
out chips once I take it loose? I have a router table on a base, table
saw,
and metal bender I'd like to anchor down. I think if I use a lag, the
hole
will wallow in the wood. I could take some square plate, cut some vent
blow
holes, drill it, weld a nut on the underside, rout out a place on the
floor,
and mount that with countersinks, but I was wondering if there was
anything
available that was pre made that I could just slam down.

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!

If you use lag bolts make sure they are not made in china. When I
bolted down the machines in my simi trailer I twisted off a couple and
they where a bitch to cut off under the machines or lifting them over
the broken bolts.

SW

Please reread my post. I do not want to use lags.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Threaded inserts, tee nuts(woodworking type) or make your own. *Chunks
of flat plate with tapped holes, inletted into and screwed to the
floor. *Just depends on how big you want your hold-down bolts to be.
You can get tee-nuts with holes in the flanges for nails or screws so
they don't have to be underneath the wood to hold. *If it's just light
woodworking machinery, it isn't going to dance around a lot, you could
maybe get by with 1/4-20s. *Can get tee nuts and threated inserts at
Ace.

Stan

Where I live is on top of sand dunes, essentially. *I blow and vacuum out my
container weekly. *My concern is keeping them clean enough to use, and not
letting them get sand in there where they can get moist and rust. *How would
you use a T nut when you can't get behind the board?

Steve

visit my blog athttp://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Like I said, they make them without the usual lugs sticking out and
with holes in the flange for screws or nails, usually three in a
circular pattern. Those keep the tee nut from rotating or pulling
out. Have gotten them from Ace and Lowe's. Can be had in stainless.
I usually use a drill press and a Forstner bit to recess them flush.
Kind of hard to do it that way on a floor, though...

Inserts work, too, may be more work cranking them into place, though.
You can get steel or brass, brass wouldn't rust. Use beeswax for lube
when cranking them in. If you've got sand problems, drill the holes
deep and get some plastic caps for the unused holes, they make them.

Stan

'Coupla thoughts:
- you probably don't need hold downs on the router & saw - the forces on
them are pretty small
- you only need 2 hold downs on the brake - to keep the front from lifting
- you do NOT want to use bolts of any kind - you do not want to be
screwing & unscrewing bolts every time you use it. You want to move it
into place, lock it down with MINIMAL motion & get to using it.

I would do something like this: have a plate in the floor with a keyhole
opening (a circle with a smaller tail). On your brake you have a bolt
whose head fits through the keyhole circle & whose shank fits the tail.
You move the brake over the floor plate, lower the bolt through the
keyhole, slide it slightly into the tail, & tighten the bolt. NOT by
running a nut on its threads, but with a pull toggle clamp, like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Toggle-clamp-pus...l_Work_Holding

One flip of the lever tightens you down & another flip releases.

That's how I would do it,
Bob

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:59:58 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner


I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed
cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do
catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat
traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of
either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last


From a thread in 2009

"Only if you are feline. Chlordane tended to make cats go goofy. While
it didnt usually..usually kill them...it tended to make them badly
fugazzi...


I wonder if it has the same effect on Usenet trolls like hawkie and
cliffie?

Karl Townsend wrote:

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 11:54:42 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


steamer wrote:

--Well it's not ideal but if you go to a store that sells
accessories for trailers you can get those slotted widgets (that are screwed
to wood decks) that accept quick-connect rings. Then attach a load binder or
two and you've got a real rigid attachment point. Comes apart fast too;
there's just the problem of the load binder getting in the way of what
you're doing but that shouldn't be too bad if you position 'em towards the back
of the tool, yes?

E-Track? On a floor???

"The Kid" made a trailer deck that has two rows of Etrack that he
liberated from my semi trailer. Very handy. But, its open below. I
think it would be a dirt and swarf magent for a permanent floor.

Karl


http://loadlocker.com/

On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:32:42 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:59:58 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner


I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed
cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do
catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat
traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of
either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last


From a thread in 2009

"Only if you are feline. Chlordane tended to make cats go goofy. While
it didnt usually..usually kill them...it tended to make them badly
fugazzi...


I wonder if it has the same effect on Usenet trolls like hawkie and
cliffie?

If you can round the two of them up, and bring em to me, Id test that
and a host of other products on them.

No deposit..no return.

Of course by the time Ive used them up..they will rate their very own
Hazardous Waste bunker


--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:32:42 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:59:58 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner


I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed
cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do
catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat
traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of
either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last


From a thread in 2009

"Only if you are feline. Chlordane tended to make cats go goofy. While
it didnt usually..usually kill them...it tended to make them badly
fugazzi...


I wonder if it has the same effect on Usenet trolls like hawkie and
cliffie?

If you can round the two of them up, and bring em to me, Id test that
and a host of other products on them.

No deposit..no return.

Of course by the time I've used them up..they will rate their very own
Hazardous Waste bunker


They could still be used for proucts that claim they do no testing on
animals, though. Of course, they may already be good at applying makeup
and lipstick. ;-)

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:37:19 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:32:42 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:59:58 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Gunner Asch" wrote

Chlordane (unless Im thinking of something else) is also known to be a
bit hard on cats. Ive seen few cats around storage yards with cargo
containers, while next door, many cats.

Gunner


I'd have to back my ATV trailer over to the house and load up my fat assed
cat and drive her out there. She'd never walk that far on her own. I do
catch a lot of pack rats in my sheds, many of them quite large. I use rat
traps. I use 5 gal. buckets for the mice, and strangely, I get very few of
either of them in the containers. Maybe because of the chlordane.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
free books while they last


From a thread in 2009

"Only if you are feline. Chlordane tended to make cats go goofy. While
it didnt usually..usually kill them...it tended to make them badly
fugazzi...


I wonder if it has the same effect on Usenet trolls like hawkie and
cliffie?

If you can round the two of them up, and bring em to me, Id test that
and a host of other products on them.

No deposit..no return.

Of course by the time I've used them up..they will rate their very own
Hazardous Waste bunker


They could still be used for proucts that claim they do no testing on
animals, though. Of course, they may already be good at applying makeup
and lipstick. ;-)

Oh indeed....Indeed!!!

VBG

Gunner


I am the Sword of my Family
and the Shield of my Nation.
If sent, I will crush everything you have built,
burn everything you love,
and kill every one of you.
(Hebrew quote)