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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Container hardware
I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage
door, some turbines, and some windows. Is there a place where they sell these things that will easily fit the waffle configuration of the sidewalls? Or should I just go get some surplus metal doors and weld them up and shim accordingly? Mostly, I want a quality roll up door. Steve -- "...the man who really counts in the world is the doer, not the mere critic-the man who actually does the work, even if roughly and imperfectly, not the man who only talks or writes about how it ought to be done." Theodore Roosevelt 1891 |
#2
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Container hardware
SteveB wrote:
I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage door, some turbines, and some windows. Is there a place where they sell these things that will easily fit the waffle configuration of the sidewalls? Or should I just go get some surplus metal doors and weld them up and shim accordingly? Mostly, I want a quality roll up door. Steve I think the protocol is to cut straight lines, weld in the square tubing for framing the door, then mount the available hardware into the frame. Sizing the hole, to suit the available door, of course. Not sure. Never done it, but that has seemed to be the pattern, on the ones I have looked at. Cheers Trev |
#3
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Container hardware
On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:55:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas
wrote: I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage door, some turbines, and some windows. Is there a place where they sell these things that will easily fit the waffle configuration of the sidewalls? Or should I just go get some surplus metal doors and weld them up and shim accordingly? Mostly, I want a quality roll up door. Steve I'd go get a steel frame commercial door, and build your "Doorjamb" out of 2" x 4" mild steel tubing. Just like you were sliding it over the 2X4 of a framed wall. I'd do it on ours, but Mom thought an Aluminum shipper would be better. Can't do it unless I want to invest in a spoolgun, and then I have to find big square or rectangle tubing in AL for the header and trimmers... -- Bruce -- |
#4
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Container hardware
For the record, I had an aluminum container. What a disaster, had a
roof leak, difficult to repair this type of roof as it has sealant and gasket between the aluminum and steel ribs. My observations are the same as the other posters regarding steel containers. The frames are welded in but I remember them being angles but not completely sure on that. The hardware looked like standard commercial stuff. I think you need a pretty wide piece to span the corrugations on the header. Why do you need a roll up door? Why not keep the factory doors and put in a set of double steel doors on the side or on the other end. If you have doors on each end you get ventilation in warm weather. How often are you moving something big enough to require the entire 8x8 opening? If the answer is not often, the original doors only take a couple of minutes to open and are quite sturdy. Also, there are specialty supply places that you can buy the gaskets for the original doors if needed. Something I wished I would have done with mine is put an awning off the side or end. |
#5
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Container hardware
On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:43:32 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote: On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:55:46 -0800, "SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote: I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage door, some turbines, and some windows. Is there a place where they sell these things that will easily fit the waffle configuration of the sidewalls? Or should I just go get some surplus metal doors and weld them up and shim accordingly? Mostly, I want a quality roll up door. Steve I'd go get a steel frame commercial door, and build your "Doorjamb" out of 2" x 4" mild steel tubing. Just like you were sliding it over the 2X4 of a framed wall. I'd do it on ours, but Mom thought an Aluminum shipper would be better. Can't do it unless I want to invest in a spoolgun, and then I have to find big square or rectangle tubing in AL for the header and trimmers... -- Bruce -- Or simply bolt it in. My 20' is also aluminum Gunner |
#6
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Container hardware
"texasjim1093" wrote in message ... For the record, I had an aluminum container. What a disaster, had a roof leak, difficult to repair this type of roof as it has sealant and gasket between the aluminum and steel ribs. My observations are the same as the other posters regarding steel containers. The frames are welded in but I remember them being angles but not completely sure on that. The hardware looked like standard commercial stuff. I think you need a pretty wide piece to span the corrugations on the header. Why do you need a roll up door? Why not keep the factory doors and put in a set of double steel doors on the side or on the other end. If you have doors on each end you get ventilation in warm weather. How often are you moving something big enough to require the entire 8x8 opening? If the answer is not often, the original doors only take a couple of minutes to open and are quite sturdy. Also, there are specialty supply places that you can buy the gaskets for the original doors if needed. Something I wished I would have done with mine is put an awning off the side or end. We went to city council to see if we needed a permit. They said come back at five for the staff meeting where everyone would be there. We pitched our idea, which was to put a cover on this to keep the heat down, cover the sides with barn wood, put up a hitching post rail and porch on one side, and to basically do everything to make it NOT look like a container. They said thanks very much, and that was the first time anyone had been concerned what they looked like. Then they told us we were in an AG1 zone, and didn't even need a permit unless we electrifried it. We're thinking of having a muralist paint trees and flowers on it so that it blends better with the landscaping. We sit out on a lot of acreage, and it sure would make it look a lot nicer. But yes, covers and awnings sure keep down the heat inside, and give shaded work areas around it, as well as shaded storage areas. Steve |
#7
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Container hardware
I have a friend in California that has two. They both behave as
rooms off his large shop. They are on concrete piers each of a unique height and laser leveled. A truck and crane delivered and the mating was on the mark. He stores finished parts in one and has raw material in another. Both are lockable. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ SteveB wrote: I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage door, some turbines, and some windows. Is there a place where they sell these things that will easily fit the waffle configuration of the sidewalls? Or should I just go get some surplus metal doors and weld them up and shim accordingly? Mostly, I want a quality roll up door. Steve ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#8
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Container hardware
"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in message ... "texasjim1093" wrote in message ... For the record, I had an aluminum container. What a disaster, had a roof leak, difficult to repair this type of roof as it has sealant and gasket between the aluminum and steel ribs. My observations are the same as the other posters regarding steel containers. The frames are welded in but I remember them being angles but not completely sure on that. The hardware looked like standard commercial stuff. I think you need a pretty wide piece to span the corrugations on the header. Why do you need a roll up door? Why not keep the factory doors and put in a set of double steel doors on the side or on the other end. If you have doors on each end you get ventilation in warm weather. How often are you moving something big enough to require the entire 8x8 opening? If the answer is not often, the original doors only take a couple of minutes to open and are quite sturdy. Also, there are specialty supply places that you can buy the gaskets for the original doors if needed. Something I wished I would have done with mine is put an awning off the side or end. We went to city council to see if we needed a permit. They said come back at five for the staff meeting where everyone would be there. We pitched our idea, which was to put a cover on this to keep the heat down, cover the sides with barn wood, put up a hitching post rail and porch on one side, and to basically do everything to make it NOT look like a container. They said thanks very much, and that was the first time anyone had been concerned what they looked like. Then they told us we were in an AG1 zone, and didn't even need a permit unless we electrifried it. We're thinking of having a muralist paint trees and flowers on it so that it blends better with the landscaping. We sit out on a lot of acreage, and it sure would make it look a lot nicer. But yes, covers and awnings sure keep down the heat inside, and give shaded work areas around it, as well as shaded storage areas. Steve Shading the top- with at least 6" of air flow between the shade and the top will make an ENORMOUS difference in the heat in the container. Shading the sides and ends will help a lot, also. Objective- don't let ol' Sol touch your unit. ----== Posted via Pronews.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.pronews.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups ---= - Total Privacy via Encryption =--- |
#9
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Container hardware
Mark Dunning wrote:
Shading the top- with at least 6" of air flow between the shade and the top will make an ENORMOUS difference in the heat in the container. Shading the sides and ends will help a lot, also. Objective- don't let ol' Sol touch your unit. Yeah! I lived in a sea can for a couple months, overseas. If they are done right, they make great temporary quarters, but a coat of white paint, and at least a roof to keep the sun off the top, is a great place to start. A split air conditioner/ heater unit goes a long ways too! :-) I have seen some pictures of sea cans built into some pretty decent sized buildings (like a 40 x 40 foot classroom, all open in the interior) as well as a couple that were sheathed in siding, with a nice verand/porch thing on the long side, using the overhanging roof for some shade. Whithout knowing it was a sea container to start with, you be hard pressed to tell. Kinda interested in the subject, as I would like to use a few cans for various things, once I am settled down. By then, I suspect that they will have found actual uses for them, rather than surplussing them all out. :-( Cheers Trev |
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