Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Anyone doing any actual metalwork?

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:31:35 -0700, Jim Stewart
wrote:

Been working rather furiously on a turned five
part enclosure for an electronic instrument I'm
designing. Got a proof of concept unit and a
3d modeled proto turned on my Jet lathe and had
a real machinist make me 4 more preproduction
units. Played around with Alodining the parts
and painting them with bake-on phenolic resin
paint.


Hi Jim, where do you get bake-on phenolic resin paint? I have an
application not at all related to painting...

Best -- Terry
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"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
I'm not doing metalwork because I can't figure out how to lay out the
!!@@##@!@! sheet metal pattern. Trying to do a double offset (both
directions) in an 8"x12" duct. But once I get the pattern, the
metalworking should be interesting: It requires a Pittsburgh lock on a
compound curve.

SteveB wrote:
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear the jaybirds.

Steve

I have not tried it with curves but I have made straight line transitions by
cutting cardboard patterns for each side and cutting the metal oversize for
laps. I bend the laps and screw or rivet together. If your patterns get cut
undersize you can just tape another piece on where needed until you get it
all how you want it. You can also make each pattern in more than one piece
and tape together. I first did that to make a pattern for cutting flooring
to go in a small bathroom.

I know there are more elegant methods.

Don Young


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On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings, and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.

Steve

Oh, and I almost forgot. I remounted the mailbox. Again. I think
this is twelve times it's been knocked over in four years. The latest
post lasted a long time; very stiff spring let the post pop back into
position after it's been hit. But this time the spring broke.

Some incidents have been accidental but at least a couple have clearly
been deliberate. I'm not sure about the last one.

Hmm... I may have to embed the next post in concrete. The concrete
will be reinforced with rebar. The ends of some of the rebar will
accidentally stick up a few inches above the concrete. Those ends
might be pretty sharp; some of them come that way from Home Despot....

Best -- Terry
.....accidents will happen....sorry about those ripped-up Michelins...
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"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear
the jaybirds.

Steve

Hi Steve, I bit the bullet and bought a cheap stick/TIG welder/plasma
cutter and am learning to weld. Well...that may be an exaggeration.
I'm learning to make very bad seams, that's what I'm doing.

Also bought nomex coveralls to wear while welding. Only partly for
fire safety. When I bought a VW bus many years ago, my friend Jeff
gave me a pair of coveralls and insisted that I wear them while
working on the bus. It seems that a pair of dirty coveralls
intimidates the vehicle into thinking that a proper mechanic is
working on it. I'm using the same kind of logic to improve the welds.

It's not working...

Best -- Terry


Welding is just like learning to play the piano. After a few thousand
hours, you will improve or give it up. I've been welding since 1974. Just
do what you're doing. Practice, and weld on dirty crooked "stuff". Most
anyone can weld on clean plate or machine cut goods. And use that personal
protective gear. Wear UNFRAYED cotton. Don't skimp on a good hood or good
safety stuff. Don't forget about earplugs. Keeps out the dingleberries.
(those little molten BBs) Learn to use 7018 rods.

Steve


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"Terry" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear
the jaybirds.

Steve

Oh, and I almost forgot. I remounted the mailbox. Again. I think
this is twelve times it's been knocked over in four years. The latest
post lasted a long time; very stiff spring let the post pop back into
position after it's been hit. But this time the spring broke.

Some incidents have been accidental but at least a couple have clearly
been deliberate. I'm not sure about the last one.

Hmm... I may have to embed the next post in concrete. The concrete
will be reinforced with rebar. The ends of some of the rebar will
accidentally stick up a few inches above the concrete. Those ends
might be pretty sharp; some of them come that way from Home Despot....

Best -- Terry
....accidents will happen....sorry about those ripped-up Michelins...


We used to get teenagers that played mailbox baseball. After losing a
couple to bats, I lined one with plate steel. Put it on a steel pipe post
and wrapped it with 1 bys. Looked like a good wind would make it fall over.
Every new crop of mailbox baseballers got to play with it. Even found a
couple of stubs and splinters of Louisville Sluggers. That had to hurt.
Never did have a car hit it.

Steve




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On Mar 25, 1:30*am, Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. *I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. *I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings, and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.


What's everyone up to? *So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.


Steve


I haven't done jack **** lately beyond overhauling the treadmill.

I'm confident with MIG but I stil need to address E-field issues with
TIG re my implanted cardioverter. *


A company that I worked for used gloveboxes for welding similar to
ones shown he
http://www.weldchambers.com/
Some gloveboxes are just lightweight plastic designed to be purged
with inert gas. Some heavier metal ones are designed to withstand
vacuum before backfilling with argon. (Saves time & argon.) Using a
metal glovebox for welding might give you better protection from stray
fields.
The downside is that they’re usually big awkward monstrosities and
your argon requirements might go up. Still you might design something
more suitable for yourself or find some tech company or R&D lab
discarding one. A big advantage is protecting the weld backside from
oxidation.
I don’t know if you’ve considered this option. It might be a bit
farfetched or overkill for your purposes.
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On 2009-03-25, SteveB wrote:
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.


[ ... ]

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.


Well ... I'm stuck not able to do any work for the moment. I
had cataract surgery about a week and a half ago, and am under
instructions to not lift anything over twenty pounds -- which locks out
a lot of what I would want to work with. A few days more and I am free,
until the next eye.

However -- as a potential benefit for welding in the future --
the replacement lenses are UV blockers. The eyeball could still get a
flash burn, but the retina is protected.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Terry writes:

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings, and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.

Steve

Oh, and I almost forgot. I remounted the mailbox. Again. I think
this is twelve times it's been knocked over in four years. The latest
post lasted a long time; very stiff spring let the post pop back into
position after it's been hit. But this time the spring broke.

Some incidents have been accidental but at least a couple have clearly
been deliberate. I'm not sure about the last one.

Hmm... I may have to embed the next post in concrete. The concrete
will be reinforced with rebar. The ends of some of the rebar will
accidentally stick up a few inches above the concrete. Those ends
might be pretty sharp; some of them come that way from Home Despot....


I know somebody who had a problem with kids bashing mailboxes with
baseball bats. He filled a mailbox with concrete and set it at a
random location on the street. A couple of nights later....

Whap!
Whap!
Whap!
Whap!
*THUD* "@#$%^#@@@!!!!!"

and they went off to bother another neighborhood.
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I did some research, apparently SolidWorks has a sheet metal function
that allows one to unwrap an object and get the sheet metal layout. Plan
is to get a 10 day license to have at it. Word is I should be good to
start late Thursday.

OK, I NEEDED to get up to speed on SolidWorks but I didn't plan to do it
on an urgent project.

I suppose I could do it with cardboard, I stockpile corrugated material
for such things. But this would work better with poster board. Hmmmmmmm
do it right with SolidWorks or do it quick with cardboard. Hmmmmmmm
Decisions, decisions.

By the way, the double direction offset is a stinker. I had to do a bent
wire model to be able to wrap my braincells around what was going on.

Side story: I stopped at one sheet metal place, got blown out the door.
Stopped at another place, some 70+ year old guy at a layout table amid a
mound of unrelated stuff. I said "you look old enough to do what I
want". After some discussion, I told him I had a joint sample I would
show him if he wouldn't laugh. I dragged in a 24" sample part that I
pounded out with a snips, a regular pliers, and two beers. He said he
wasn't the least bit worried about MAKING the duct even with the
compound edges. But he was really worried about the pattern. We
compromised: I do the layout, he makes the part.

Don Young wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
m...
I'm not doing metalwork because I can't figure out how to lay out the
!!@@##@!@! sheet metal pattern. Trying to do a double offset (both
directions) in an 8"x12" duct. But once I get the pattern, the
metalworking should be interesting: It requires a Pittsburgh lock on a
compound curve.

SteveB wrote:
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear the jaybirds.

Steve

I have not tried it with curves but I have made straight line transitions by
cutting cardboard patterns for each side and cutting the metal oversize for
laps. I bend the laps and screw or rivet together. If your patterns get cut
undersize you can just tape another piece on where needed until you get it
all how you want it. You can also make each pattern in more than one piece
and tape together. I first did that to make a pattern for cutting flooring
to go in a small bathroom.

I know there are more elegant methods.

Don Young


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What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear the jaybirds.


I built a couple of ring rollers. Kind of a slip roll for plate, rod and
bar stock. Works pretty good on square tubing too!

A fair share of machining and welding:

http://www.progressivelogic.com/mf/ringroller.html

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"SteveB" wrote in message
news
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and getting the sewing machine tuned up.


Steve





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"Calif Bill" wrote in message
m...

"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
news
I.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear the jaybirds.

Steve


I''m still searching all over for some way to make the 4 ft long curl on
the end of some .040 stainless to form a hood hinge for my 36 cadillac -
it puzzles me to no end that this thing could be made in 1936 and no one
I've contacted has a clue how to make it today - looks like either a roll
mill or hammer mill job to me - no this is not a hinge with a pin, it is
a typical interlocking spiral car hood hinge.

any clues?


Cad Coupe? Boss of mine in high school had one of the 2 1936 Cad coupes
in the SF Bay area.


it's a series 6019 (look on www.wbnoble.com, click on hobbies, then cars) -
some day I'll finish it. It is the smallest of the V-8s of that year, 4
doors, dual side mounts, should be nice if I ever get it finished.

by the way, I"ve posted images and a diagram of the part I need to the drop
box using the file name "36-cad-hinge-*" they should show up "real soon now"


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On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 22:50:03 -0600, Joe Pfeiffer
wrote:

Depends on whether actual competence is required for metalwork.

I'm replacing the timing belt on my wife's '00 Intrepid, which
requires removing the vibration damper. There's a special service
tool for holding the damper in place while loosening the crankshaft
bolt. Last time I used an old serpentine belt and a clamp instead of
the tool, but this time I got ambitious....

Building a vibration damper holder requires cutting a six inch steel
disk. So, I finished building a circle guide for my sabre today. The
"universal" circle guide at Lowe's turned out to not be universal
enough.

Unwinding the recursion, tomorrow I see if the circle guide will
really help me cut a circle....

When I worked on Senior Son's '68 Firebird 6, I used a flat plate with
three holes to match the Puller bolt pattern with a chain drilled
opening for the retainer bolt. The end of the plate rested against the
frame. this was the only way I could see to hold the crank from
turning other than dropping the pan or using rope in a cylinder.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada
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On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 23:42:34 -0400, "Keith Marshall"

I built a couple of ring rollers. Kind of a slip roll for plate, rod and
bar stock. Works pretty good on square tubing too!

A fair share of machining and welding:

http://www.progressivelogic.com/mf/ringroller.html

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall

Hey Keith,

Super job!!
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"Gerald Miller" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 22:50:03 -0600, Joe Pfeiffer
wrote:

Depends on whether actual competence is required for metalwork.

I'm replacing the timing belt on my wife's '00 Intrepid, which
requires removing the vibration damper. There's a special service
tool for holding the damper in place while loosening the crankshaft
bolt. Last time I used an old serpentine belt and a clamp instead of
the tool, but this time I got ambitious....

Building a vibration damper holder requires cutting a six inch steel
disk. So, I finished building a circle guide for my sabre today. The
"universal" circle guide at Lowe's turned out to not be universal
enough.

Unwinding the recursion, tomorrow I see if the circle guide will
really help me cut a circle....

When I worked on Senior Son's '68 Firebird 6, I used a flat plate with
three holes to match the Puller bolt pattern with a chain drilled
opening for the retainer bolt. The end of the plate rested against the
frame. this was the only way I could see to hold the crank from
turning other than dropping the pan or using rope in a cylinder.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada


I don't know this car, but the usual way to lock the crankshaft is to remove
the starter and replace it with a piece that has a couple of "gear teeth" on
it that engages with the ring gear. I bought one for working on 944s, works
great. looks easy enough to build too


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"
I''m still searching all over for some way to make the 4 ft long curl on
the end of some .040 stainless to form a hood hinge for my 36 cadillac -
it puzzles me to no end that this thing could be made in 1936 and no one
I've contacted has a clue how to make it today - looks like either a
roll mill or hammer mill job to me - no this is not a hinge with a pin,
it is a typical interlocking spiral car hood hinge.

any clues?


Cad Coupe? Boss of mine in high school had one of the 2 1936 Cad coupes
in the SF Bay area.


it's a series 6019 (look on www.wbnoble.com, click on hobbies, then
cars) - some day I'll finish it. It is the smallest of the V-8s of that
year, 4 doors, dual side mounts, should be nice if I ever get it finished.

by the way, I"ve posted images and a diagram of the part I need to the
drop box using the file name "36-cad-hinge-*" they should show up "real
soon now"



here's the links to the images in the dropbox

The file 36-cad-hinge-3.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge-3.JPG".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/36-cad-hinge-3.JPG
The file 36-cad-hinge-drawing.jpg has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge-drawing.jpg".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ge-drawing.jpg
The file 36-cad-hinge-1.jpg has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge-1.jpg".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/36-cad-hinge-1.jpg
The file 36-cad-hinge-2.jpg has been DEFERRED for manual handling as
"36-cad-hinge-2.jpg-1".
It was deferred because: because it is too small (min size = 5000)
The file 36-cad-hinge.txt has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge.txt".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/36-cad-hinge.txt




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On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 20:34:11 -0500, the infamous Terry
scrawled the following:

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings, and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.

Steve

Oh, and I almost forgot. I remounted the mailbox. Again. I think
this is twelve times it's been knocked over in four years. The latest
post lasted a long time; very stiff spring let the post pop back into
position after it's been hit. But this time the spring broke.

Some incidents have been accidental but at least a couple have clearly
been deliberate. I'm not sure about the last one.

Hmm... I may have to embed the next post in concrete. The concrete
will be reinforced with rebar. The ends of some of the rebar will
accidentally stick up a few inches above the concrete. Those ends
might be pretty sharp; some of them come that way from Home Despot....

Best -- Terry
....accidents will happen....sorry about those ripped-up Michelins...


Be careful. In some (Blue?) states, those baseballers have more
rights than you do. You're made liable if they get hurt. Google RCM
and the Wreck for more info on the "mailbox" threads.

Check with your AG and/or local Sheriff for details in your area.
Logic doesn't work here. sigh

--
Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in
nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding
danger is no safer in the long run than exposure.
-- Helen Keller
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On Thu, 26 Mar 2009 01:11:20 -0400, the infamous Brian Lawson
scrawled the following:

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 23:42:34 -0400, "Keith Marshall"

I built a couple of ring rollers. Kind of a slip roll for plate, rod and
bar stock. Works pretty good on square tubing too!

A fair share of machining and welding:

http://www.progressivelogic.com/mf/ringroller.html

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall

Hey Keith,

Super job!!


Ditto! What about specs or dims for it, Keith? Gonna put 'em on your
site like the great little powerfeed sometime soon?

--
Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in
nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding
danger is no safer in the long run than exposure.
-- Helen Keller
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On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 13:22:03 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Would metal window screen work? Make a denim/screen/denim sandwich and
then sew up a jacket. I have a freind with an upholstry business that
would do this very cheap if I tell her its for a freind.

Karl


Interesting idea. Mary also sews...
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On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 17:18:28 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings, and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.

Steve


I haven't done jack **** lately beyond overhauling the treadmill.

I'm confident with MIG but I stil need to address E-field issues with
TIG re my implanted cardioverter.



If MIG doesn't bother it, then TIG shouldn't, either. The electric
field from the HF won't penetrate the body, as you are essentially a bag
of salt water.


That certainly does seem reasonable, but they do have those field
specs and I'm real low on bravado here. The unit itself is just under
the skin so at least the beginning of the lead is also quite close to
the surface.

I wonder if shielding the cable might help significantly. Haven't
tried that yet. Just knowing I can get there from here seems to have
relieved some of the urgency.





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On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 22:40:26 -0500, RoyJ
wrote:

I did some research, apparently SolidWorks has a sheet metal function
that allows one to unwrap an object and get the sheet metal layout. Plan
is to get a 10 day license to have at it. Word is I should be good to
start late Thursday.

OK, I NEEDED to get up to speed on SolidWorks but I didn't plan to do it
on an urgent project.


Alibre Professional also has a sheet metal function. I have Alibre
standard, which unfortunately doesn't have that capability.


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wrote in message
...
On Mar 25, 1:30 am, Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:52:20 -0600, "SteveB"
wrote:

I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.


What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear
the jaybirds.


Steve


I haven't done jack **** lately beyond overhauling the treadmill.

I'm confident with MIG but I stil need to address E-field issues with
TIG re my implanted cardioverter.


A company that I worked for used gloveboxes for welding similar to
ones shown he
http://www.weldchambers.com/
Some gloveboxes are just lightweight plastic designed to be purged
with inert gas. Some heavier metal ones are designed to withstand
vacuum before backfilling with argon. (Saves time & argon.) Using a
metal glovebox for welding might give you better protection from stray
fields.
The downside is that they’re usually big awkward monstrosities and
your argon requirements might go up. Still you might design something
more suitable for yourself or find some tech company or R&D lab
discarding one. A big advantage is protecting the weld backside from
oxidation.
I don’t know if you’ve considered this option. It might be a bit
farfetched or overkill for your purposes.

How about just a plate with a couple of holes to reach through? Maybe
nonferrous. You could make it tall enough to be able to see over. It may
take some adjusting to use, but MAY (and I emphasize that word) work.

Steve


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"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2009-03-25, SteveB wrote:
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.


[ ... ]

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear
the jaybirds.


Well ... I'm stuck not able to do any work for the moment. I
had cataract surgery about a week and a half ago, and am under
instructions to not lift anything over twenty pounds -- which locks out
a lot of what I would want to work with. A few days more and I am free,
until the next eye.

However -- as a potential benefit for welding in the future --
the replacement lenses are UV blockers. The eyeball could still get a
flash burn, but the retina is protected.

Enjoy,
DoN.


Just get real good equipment and learn to become anal about using it all the
time. Sure, things happen, but my experience has been that guys who really
watch the safety aspects have fewer "incidents."

Hope you're back at it soon. I know it gets to grind on me when I have a
backlog of "stuff" because I'm feelin puny.

Steve


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That's some mighty fine looking stuff. I'd like to find a tubing roller
already made that's reasonable. I know I could make one, and maybe I will,
but at this stage of life, I'd rather buy one ready to go. You got any for
sale? Know of anyone?

Class?

Class? -Ben Stein-

Steve

"Keith Marshall" wrote in message
...
What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear the jaybirds.


I built a couple of ring rollers. Kind of a slip roll for plate, rod and
bar stock. Works pretty good on square tubing too!

A fair share of machining and welding:

http://www.progressivelogic.com/mf/ringroller.html

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"SteveB" wrote in message
news
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and getting the sewing machine tuned up.


Steve





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Gerald Miller writes:

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 22:50:03 -0600, Joe Pfeiffer
wrote:

Depends on whether actual competence is required for metalwork.

I'm replacing the timing belt on my wife's '00 Intrepid, which
requires removing the vibration damper. There's a special service
tool for holding the damper in place while loosening the crankshaft
bolt. Last time I used an old serpentine belt and a clamp instead of
the tool, but this time I got ambitious....

Building a vibration damper holder requires cutting a six inch steel
disk. So, I finished building a circle guide for my sabre today. The
"universal" circle guide at Lowe's turned out to not be universal
enough.

Unwinding the recursion, tomorrow I see if the circle guide will
really help me cut a circle....

When I worked on Senior Son's '68 Firebird 6, I used a flat plate with
three holes to match the Puller bolt pattern with a chain drilled
opening for the retainer bolt. The end of the plate rested against the
frame. this was the only way I could see to hold the crank from
turning other than dropping the pan or using rope in a cylinder.


This tool ends up being pretty similar to what you're describing,
though the balancer doesnt have holes for the puller (as brilliant an
engine design as the Mopar 3.5 is in many ways, the harmonic
balancer is an exception).

I've done this job before on this car, and used a serpentine belt
wrapped around the crankshaft pulley with vice-grips holding the belt
together. I just decided I wanted to duplicate the "right" tool for
the job this time instead of killing another belt (before you tell me
I should replace the accessory belts, they're nearly new. I replaced
the radiator recently, and changed the belts at that time).
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"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 13:22:03 -0500, Karl Townsend
wrote:

Would metal window screen work? Make a denim/screen/denim sandwich and
then sew up a jacket. I have a freind with an upholstry business that
would do this very cheap if I tell her its for a freind.

Karl


Interesting idea. Mary also sews...


They have shark suits, and meatpackers use metal chain mail. If you could
pick up some of that cheap, it would have more flex AND it would probably be
pretty breathable. Course, you'd look like the tin man, but .........

Steve




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Default Anyone doing any actual metalwork?

SteveB wrote:
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings, and
getting the sewing machine tuned up.


What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't hear
the jaybirds.


Steve



I've been making these:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../shop/dam3.png
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Terry wrote:
On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:31:35 -0700, Jim Stewart
wrote:

Been working rather furiously on a turned five
part enclosure for an electronic instrument I'm
designing. Got a proof of concept unit and a
3d modeled proto turned on my Jet lathe and had
a real machinist make me 4 more preproduction
units. Played around with Alodining the parts
and painting them with bake-on phenolic resin
paint.


Hi Jim, where do you get bake-on phenolic resin paint? I have an
application not at all related to painting...


Here you go...

http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/molyresin_about.asp


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On 2009-03-26, Todd Rich wrote:

I've been making these:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../shop/dam3.png


Wow, nice patterns. What steels did you use?

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
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Ignoramus764 wrote:
On 2009-03-26, Todd Rich wrote:

I've been making these:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../shop/dam3.png


Wow, nice patterns. What steels did you use?


1095 and 15n20. 15n20 has about .75% carbon, and close to 2% nickel.
Fairly close to L6 in heat treat properties too.

And thanks! This (pattern welding in general) is what I've been working
towards with getting my compressor and building the power hammer. I'm
starting to get up to speed. Depending on how well my grinding skills
ramp up, I should be doing knives soon too.
Todd
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On 2009-03-26, Todd Rich wrote:
Ignoramus764 wrote:
On 2009-03-26, Todd Rich wrote:

I've been making these:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../shop/dam3.png


Wow, nice patterns. What steels did you use?


1095 and 15n20. 15n20 has about .75% carbon, and close to 2% nickel.
Fairly close to L6 in heat treat properties too.

And thanks! This (pattern welding in general) is what I've been working
towards with getting my compressor and building the power hammer.


Yep, that's why I was so excited about it.

I'm starting to get up to speed. Depending on how well my grinding
skills ramp up, I should be doing knives soon too.


I can buy a knife from you if you make a nice knife and have a nice
price on it.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/


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Ignoramus764 wrote:
(snip)
I can buy a knife from you if you make a nice knife and have a nice
price on it.


I'll post something here when I get to that point. I'm hoping by the
middle of summer.

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Gerald Miller wrote:

When I worked on Senior Son's '68 Firebird 6, I used a flat plate with
three holes to match the Puller bolt pattern with a chain drilled
opening for the retainer bolt. The end of the plate rested against the
frame. this was the only way I could see to hold the crank from
turning other than dropping the pan or using rope in a cylinder.


You take a plug out, insert a bunch of nylon rope into the cylinder and then torque away.
Make sure to leave the tail of rope out.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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Ditto!

Thanks!

What about specs or dims for it, Keith? Gonna put 'em on your
site like the great little powerfeed sometime soon?


I'll see if I can get something posted later tonight or tomorrow.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 26 Mar 2009 01:11:20 -0400, the infamous Brian Lawson
scrawled the following:

On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 23:42:34 -0400, "Keith Marshall"

I built a couple of ring rollers. Kind of a slip roll for plate, rod and
bar stock. Works pretty good on square tubing too!

A fair share of machining and welding:

http://www.progressivelogic.com/mf/ringroller.html

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall

Hey Keith,

Super job!!


Ditto! What about specs or dims for it, Keith? Gonna put 'em on your
site like the great little powerfeed sometime soon?

--
Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in
nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding
danger is no safer in the long run than exposure.
-- Helen Keller



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That's some mighty fine looking stuff.

Thanks!

I'd like to find a tubing roller already made that's reasonable. I know I
could make one, and maybe I will, but at this stage of life, I'd rather
buy one ready to go. You got any for sale? Know of anyone?


Harbor Freight recently started selling one for a pretty good price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99736

Haven't seen one in person yet but I found a video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO1FOxscqqM

Looks like he's working pretty hard but he's bending .120 wall tubing so I'm
not suprised.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"SteveB" wrote in message
...
That's some mighty fine looking stuff. I'd like to find a tubing roller
already made that's reasonable. I know I could make one, and maybe I
will, but at this stage of life, I'd rather buy one ready to go. You got
any for sale? Know of anyone?

Class?

Class? -Ben Stein-

Steve

"Keith Marshall" wrote in message
...
What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear the jaybirds.


I built a couple of ring rollers. Kind of a slip roll for plate, rod and
bar stock. Works pretty good on square tubing too!

A fair share of machining and welding:

http://www.progressivelogic.com/mf/ringroller.html

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"SteveB" wrote in message
news
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.
Got a great old office chair that needs a little MIG welding to stabilize
the base. I went through a little 1.2 hp Gamefisher motor I got with my
used fishing boat. I'm getting some steel ready to make window awnings,
and getting the sewing machine tuned up.


Steve









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Keith Marshall wrote:
Harbor Freight recently started selling one for a pretty good price.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99736


Their catalog has had them for $150 (e.g., 99736-1BUC).

Haven't seen one in person yet but I found a video on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO1FOxscqqM

Looks like he's working pretty hard but he's bending .120 wall tubing so I'm
not suprised.


Looks like a gear motor might be readily attached.

Bob
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"Todd Rich" wrote

I've been making these:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../shop/dam3.png



What are those?


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On 2009-03-26, SteveB wrote:

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2009-03-25, SteveB wrote:
I bought two gates at a yard sale that I'm going to mount in the garden.


[ ... ]

What's everyone up to? So much damn political talk going on, you can't
hear
the jaybirds.


Well ... I'm stuck not able to do any work for the moment. I
had cataract surgery about a week and a half ago, and am under
instructions to not lift anything over twenty pounds -- which locks out


[ ... ]

However -- as a potential benefit for welding in the future --
the replacement lenses are UV blockers. The eyeball could still get a
flash burn, but the retina is protected.


[ ... ]

Just get real good equipment and learn to become anal about using it all the
time.


As I have been with safety glasses, never using gloves around
machine tools, removing both my wedding ring and my watch before using
such tool (and hanging them on a mini-carabiner on my belt).

Sure, things happen, but my experience has been that guys who really
watch the safety aspects have fewer "incidents."


Agreed. I still have all my fingers.

Hope you're back at it soon. I know it gets to grind on me when I have a
backlog of "stuff" because I'm feelin puny.


Indeed -- though I do have the newsgroup to read and post in
while I can't do things -- so I can share what I know with those who ask
questions.

Thanks,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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"Bill Noble" wrote in message
...

"
I''m still searching all over for some way to make the 4 ft long curl
on the end of some .040 stainless to form a hood hinge for my 36
cadillac - it puzzles me to no end that this thing could be made in
1936 and no one I've contacted has a clue how to make it today - looks
like either a roll mill or hammer mill job to me - no this is not a
hinge with a pin, it is a typical interlocking spiral car hood hinge.

any clues?


Cad Coupe? Boss of mine in high school had one of the 2 1936 Cad
coupes in the SF Bay area.


it's a series 6019 (look on www.wbnoble.com, click on hobbies, then
cars) - some day I'll finish it. It is the smallest of the V-8s of that
year, 4 doors, dual side mounts, should be nice if I ever get it
finished.

by the way, I"ve posted images and a diagram of the part I need to the
drop box using the file name "36-cad-hinge-*" they should show up "real
soon now"



here's the links to the images in the dropbox

The file 36-cad-hinge-3.JPG has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge-3.JPG".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/36-cad-hinge-3.JPG
The file 36-cad-hinge-drawing.jpg has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge-drawing.jpg".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...ge-drawing.jpg
The file 36-cad-hinge-1.jpg has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge-1.jpg".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/36-cad-hinge-1.jpg
The file 36-cad-hinge-2.jpg has been DEFERRED for manual handling as
"36-cad-hinge-2.jpg-1".
It was deferred because: because it is too small (min size = 5000)
The file 36-cad-hinge.txt has been added to the Drop Box as
"36-cad-hinge.txt".
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/36-cad-hinge.txt

It looks to me like you may need an inside pattern and figure out how to
roll the strip around it. I have seen that type of hinge but never thought
about how it was made. Wonder if it could be drawn thru a suitably shaped
tapered die, with maybe some preliminary forming? Seems like a good repro
part to sell if you can figure it out reasonably.

Don Young


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SteveB wrote:

"Todd Rich" wrote


I've been making these:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../shop/dam3.png



What are those?



Believe it or not, seam-rippers. As in sewing implements. Made out of
pattern welded (damascus) steel. I made the damascus as well grinding it
to shape when done.

Used this hammer that I built to do it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkUFgoU_LO0


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