Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

Ignoramus8643 wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

You want the Tillman TIG welding gloves, forget the model number but I
think they're deerskin. At any rate, use them for TIG welding and then
when they get a bit grungy move them to general work glove duty and put
a fresh pair into welding service. Since I found them I haven't used
much of anything else for gloves. They aren't expansive either. McMaster
5346T5 or perhaps 5346T1.

On 2008-01-01, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus8643 wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

You want the Tillman TIG welding gloves, forget the model number but I
think they're deerskin. At any rate, use them for TIG welding and then
when they get a bit grungy move them to general work glove duty and put
a fresh pair into welding service. Since I found them I haven't used
much of anything else for gloves. They aren't expansive either. McMaster
5346T5 or perhaps 5346T1.

I have exactly those tig gloves for TIG welding, they are great but
they are too thin for general stuff (like lifting things with sharp
edges). I a looking for cow leather type gloves. McMaster has a little
bit too many choices.

i

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.


Have you tried the HF 'roping gloves'? They fit my hands perfectly and have
become my favorite gloves of all time. They have an added patch around the grip
area for the rope, but are thin and flexible, yet pretty good wearing. About 8
bucks, but they have them on sale frequently. They don't show up on the web
site when I search, I guess they are a 'store only' item.


--
Dennis

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 23:23:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus8643 quickly quoth:

On 2008-01-01, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus8643 wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

You want the Tillman TIG welding gloves, forget the model number but I
think they're deerskin. At any rate, use them for TIG welding and then
when they get a bit grungy move them to general work glove duty and put
a fresh pair into welding service. Since I found them I haven't used
much of anything else for gloves. They aren't expansive either. McMaster
5346T5 or perhaps 5346T1.

I have exactly those tig gloves for TIG welding, they are great but
they are too thin for general stuff (like lifting things with sharp
edges). I a looking for cow leather type gloves. McMaster has a little
bit too many choices.

I have dozens of pairs of various gloves and have found that if I use
them for their intended purpose, they last a helluva lot longer.


Some are rubber (pvc?) coated (for glass) or dipped (for flagstone)
for slippery work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90913


Some are cotton canvas or knit for gardening.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46992
The black dots make a big difference in their usable life.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=492

Some are jersey for winter warmth. I don't stay out long.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=492

Some are split leather for tough work. These bleed the color onto your
palms and wrists. Lovely.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39790

I generally wear nitriles or latex for chemical work and cleanups.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37050
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36118

I wear XL split leather over jersey for doing blackberry vine removal.
Most of the above gloves come in 6-pair packs for under $6 on sale.
Nitriles go for as little as $4/100, latex $3/100.

And I have some of the U.S. General mechanic's gloves which work well
but die early. I probably need to try a better brand. They're padded
with leather palms, and the palms split/go away.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92171

Maybe these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93640

Or one of these kevlars?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92172
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95569


These deer/pigskin types are on sale and I'll try these next.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34531

I'll have to try these TIG gloves, too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38197

The 90913s (dipped gloves) seem to work well and hold up under many
harsh conditions. I've done lots of gardening work and installed
about 150' of flagstone pathway with one pair so far. They're the
closest to general purpose gloves I own. But when they get wet, they
need to be washed out and dried in the dryer or they reek from mildew.
The knit backs let out regular hand moisture, but the rubber fronts
keep in the wet if you get them soaked.

Try those kevlars for your heavy sharp work and let us know how you
like them, Ig.

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 00:29:39 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
(DT) quickly quoth:


Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.


Have you tried the HF 'roping gloves'? They fit my hands perfectly and have
become my favorite gloves of all time. They have an added patch around the grip
area for the rope, but are thin and flexible, yet pretty good wearing. About 8
bucks, but they have them on sale frequently. They don't show up on the web
site when I search, I guess they are a 'store only' item.

Are these the gloves you're talking about, Dennis?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34531

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)

Larry Jaques wrote:


Or one of these kevlars?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92172
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95569


Almost tempted to buy a pair to see if they can stop a round.

I hate buying gloves. Always seems one finger or more isn't sewn correctly.

Wes

Ignoramus8643 wrote:

On 2008-01-01, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus8643 wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

You want the Tillman TIG welding gloves, forget the model number but I
think they're deerskin. At any rate, use them for TIG welding and then
when they get a bit grungy move them to general work glove duty and put
a fresh pair into welding service. Since I found them I haven't used
much of anything else for gloves. They aren't expansive either. McMaster
5346T5 or perhaps 5346T1.

I have exactly those tig gloves for TIG welding, they are great but
they are too thin for general stuff (like lifting things with sharp
edges). I a looking for cow leather type gloves. McMaster has a little
bit too many choices.

i

I haven't found that issue. At any rate, McMaster has a number of types
of TIG gloves in different materials, as well as some MIG gloves in the
same section that are presumably a little heavier.

In article ,
Ignoramus8643 wrote:



I have exactly those tig gloves for TIG welding, they are great but
they are too thin for general stuff (like lifting things with sharp
edges). I a looking for cow leather type gloves. McMaster has a little
bit too many choices.

i

Carolina Glove and Safety Co. 800-557-4414

http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/

Even more choices, but good folks to deal with and they'll offer
suggestions based on what you tell them of intended use and what price
you want to pay.

I buy my Kevlar gloves for blacksmithing from them. They sell left-hand
only pairs because most smiths wear out the left hand gloves more often
than the right. I usually order 2-3 left-hand pairs to each right/left
pair

Mix of US made and imports.

"SELECT SIDE SPLIT COWHIDE" reminds me of the "White Mule" glove that I
used to be able to get at Farm & Fleet. Comfortable, stays on, palms are
tough. Lasts for years. Made in US. $7.00
http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/...itcowhide.html


John Husvar wrote:
Carolina Glove and Safety Co. 800-557-4414

http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 22:38:58 -0600, Ignoramus8643
wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

I got some leather SUG gloves from Menards. Backs are ventilated and
they are omfortable.

--
Wayne D.

Does anyone make gloves with a heavy back, but a thin palm?

Wayne wrote:
On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 22:38:58 -0600, Ignoramus8643
wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

I got some leather SUG gloves from Menards. Backs are ventilated and
they are omfortable.

Have you tried the HF 'roping gloves'? They fit my hands perfectly and have
become my favorite gloves of all time. They have an added patch around the
grip area for the rope, but are thin and flexible, yet pretty good wearing.
About 8 bucks, but they have them on sale frequently. They don't show up on
the web site when I search, I guess they are a 'store only' item.

Are these the gloves you're talking about, Dennis?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34531


No, that isn't them. These are specifically labelled 'roping gloves' and are
easy to spot with the reinforced area that warps around the base of the thumb.
They are thicker than a TIG glove. I use them for carpentry, and even for
driving in milder weather, they have no insulation for really cold weather.
Some of the HF driving gloves are OK, but I find they are quite variable, I'll
try on several pairs and only one has the leather I like so I stick to the
roping gloves.

--
Dennis

"Ignoramus8643" wrote in message
...
Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i

Iggy: Honestly. To me, it's like buying shoes through the mail. I don't
do it, because I want to put them on and feel them. When I go to the
welding store, I try them on. And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, I have found that the
pair that fit the best, and have the best feel and touch are usually the
cheapest ones! The one with the store's name, that are probably made by
some big company with the store's name stamped on them. Look at the sales
bin. Sometimes they have the expensive ones in there that they are trying
to dump, and you get a pair for $8 that were $25 yesterday.

I have gloves that lasted for a very very long time that were less than half
the price they wanted for the best ones. Not sure if you're talking about
regular work gloves, TIG gloves, or welding gloves, but for my money, I want
to try them on. I have had casts that fit more comfortably than some of
those gloves. AND, I have found deals in those locally owned TOOL SHED TOOL
TOWN TOOL WHATEVER type stores. Those nice Makita and Craftsman work gloves
are nice. But for the price, this cheap old fart would just as soon go
through five pairs of cheaper gloves. Or even ONE that lasts longer than
those spendy pretty colorful ones.

Just me. All that extra money buys a lot of steel, gas, and rod.

Or adult beverages. Or a trip to the driving range. Or whatever winds yer
clock.

Steve

"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
Mix of US made and imports.

"SELECT SIDE SPLIT COWHIDE" reminds me of the "White Mule" glove that I
used to be able to get at Farm & Fleet. Comfortable, stays on, palms are
tough. Lasts for years. Made in US. $7.00
http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/...itcowhide.html


John Husvar wrote:
Carolina Glove and Safety Co. 800-557-4414

http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/

White Mule is an outstanding glove. Used to use them on ironwork.. DO NOT
leave them laying around, or they blow away.

Steve

Iggy: Honestly. To me, it's like buying shoes through the mail. I don't
do it, because I want to put them on and feel them. When I go to the
welding store, I try them on. And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, I have found that the
pair that fit the best, and have the best feel and touch are usually the
cheapest ones!

I couldn't have said it better.

--
Dennis

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 10:43:04 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
(DT) quickly quoth:


Have you tried the HF 'roping gloves'? They fit my hands perfectly and have
become my favorite gloves of all time. They have an added patch around the
grip area for the rope, but are thin and flexible, yet pretty good wearing.
About 8 bucks, but they have them on sale frequently. They don't show up on
the web site when I search, I guess they are a 'store only' item.

Are these the gloves you're talking about, Dennis?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34531


No, that isn't them. These are specifically labelled 'roping gloves' and are
easy to spot with the reinforced area that warps around the base of the thumb.
They are thicker than a TIG glove. I use them for carpentry, and even for
driving in milder weather, they have no insulation for really cold weather.
Some of the HF driving gloves are OK, but I find they are quite variable, I'll
try on several pairs and only one has the leather I like so I stick to the
roping gloves.

I could have sworn I'd seen them but they don't come up in the 47
glove types returned on a search of the HF site. I wonder if they
stopped stocking them.

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)

On Tue, 01 Jan 2008 08:48:48 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm, Wes
quickly quoth:

Larry Jaques wrote:


Or one of these kevlars?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92172
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95569


Almost tempted to buy a pair to see if they can stop a round.

HINT: Do not try this with the glove on your hand.
I just might give 100:1 odds against their stopping a .22 short, more
for real rounds. The thread and weave are much coarser than are used
in bulletproof vests.


I hate buying gloves. Always seems one finger or more isn't sewn correctly.

Yeah, and when you're lifting heavy loads or pulling hand over fist,
those lumps between the fingers can get mighty painful.

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)

Larry Jaques wrote:

Almost tempted to buy a pair to see if they can stop a round.

HINT: Do not try this with the glove on your hand.
I just might give 100:1 odds against their stopping a .22 short, more
for real rounds. The thread and weave are much coarser than are used
in bulletproof vests.

I sure hope the writers for dumb ass don't read this thread.

Use my White Mule for gardening - the palms and fingers are thorn proof.
Sadly, the canvas is not, but a full leather glove in summer is a tad
warm. Blow away? More like they aren't nailed down...

SteveB wrote:
"Louis Ohland" wrote in message
...
Mix of US made and imports.

"SELECT SIDE SPLIT COWHIDE" reminds me of the "White Mule" glove that I
used to be able to get at Farm & Fleet. Comfortable, stays on, palms are
tough. Lasts for years. Made in US. $7.00
http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/...itcowhide.html


John Husvar wrote:
Carolina Glove and Safety Co. 800-557-4414

http://www.carolinaglovecompany.com/

White Mule is an outstanding glove. Used to use them on ironwork.. DO NOT
leave them laying around, or they blow away.

Steve

On 2008-01-01, DT wrote:

Iggy: Honestly. To me, it's like buying shoes through the mail. I don't
do it, because I want to put them on and feel them. When I go to the
welding store, I try them on. And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, I have found that the
pair that fit the best, and have the best feel and touch are usually the
cheapest ones!

I couldn't have said it better.


I actually do buy shoes through the mail. It works out fine.

i

Wes wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:


Or one of these kevlars?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92172
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95569

Almost tempted to buy a pair to see if they can stop a round.

I hate buying gloves. Always seems one finger or more isn't sewn correctly.

Wes


Try it on your other hand. ;-)


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

"Ignoramus3844" wrote in message
...
On 2008-01-01, DT wrote:

Iggy: Honestly. To me, it's like buying shoes through the mail. I
don't
do it, because I want to put them on and feel them. When I go to the
welding store, I try them on. And, MOST IMPORTANTLY, I have found that
the
pair that fit the best, and have the best feel and touch are usually the
cheapest ones!

I couldn't have said it better.


I actually do buy shoes through the mail. It works out fine.

i


Just sayin what I like to do. One size don't fit all.

Steve

On 2008-01-01, Louis Ohland wrote:
Does anyone make gloves with a heavy back, but a thin palm?

Yep! Everlast. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Er, boxing gloves aren't much good to me. Early season Grouse hunting in
thorn thickets poses a challenge - wear heavy gloves to keep the back of
your hands from getting scratched and punctured all to hell, or wear
lighter gloves to retain some dexterity, but get ripped up.

DoN. Nichols wrote:
Does anyone make gloves with a heavy back, but a thin palm?
Yep! Everlast. :-)

On Dec 31 2007, 8:38 pm, Ignoramus8643 ignoramus8...@NOSPAM.
8643.invalid wrote:

Not McMaster, but my favorite pair of gloves is a light leather, maybe
deerskin or pigskin, not the real heavy work gloves but similar to TIG
gloves. I don't know who makes them, but they are sold with the CAT
logo (like the heavy equipment manufacturer) prominently displayed on
the back. They have a leather palm and fingers with a strong,
fluorescent nylon back, with some elastic around the wrist. I use
them for moving heavy things, hammering, hotwork, and general tasks.
I have a couple pairs, and they weren't too expensive. I found them
at the local hardware store. Several years ago when I was
disassembling and moving my Excello mill, I got one pair well
impregnated with lithium grease. Over time the surface grease wore
off, to the point where they don't stain everything they touch, but it
seems to have impregnated the leather with the antifriction components
of the grease. It's like having an Oilite bushing in you hand, a
great help when shoveling, hauling, or anything where repetitive
movement would otherwise start to wear a hole in the glove and your
skin.

On Wed, 02 Jan 2008 10:53:05 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:

Er, boxing gloves aren't much good to me. Early season Grouse hunting in
thorn thickets poses a challenge - wear heavy gloves to keep the back of
your hands from getting scratched and punctured all to hell, or wear
lighter gloves to retain some dexterity, but get ripped up.

DoN. Nichols wrote:
Does anyone make gloves with a heavy back, but a thin palm?
Yep! Everlast. :-)

Try looking into motorcycle gloves. Some bikes have heated grips.
So some gloves are thinner in the palms, but heavier on the back.

--
Wayne D.

How road warrior! Might have to get a bike just to use them...

Interesting.

Wayne wrote:
Try looking into motorcycle gloves. Some bikes have heated grips.
So some gloves are thinner in the palms, but heavier on the back.

I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

The sort of work that I do with them, mostly, is moving various heavy
or unpleasant to hold things. Typical example would be cinderblock or
Parker Parkrimp-1 hydraulic hose crimper.

i

On Wed, 02 Jan 2008 20:07:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus3921 quickly quoth:

I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

Just for fun, try washing them sometime, Ig. gd&r But seriously,
the sharp sand in dirt will cause gloves to fail more quickly so
washing them frequently will help extend their lives.

Work with the wifey-poo to see how she wants them prewashed before
they go in HER washer, though. I'm not married but I know a few guys
who are. Keep a bucket of your favorite degreaser and water (heated
shop, preferably) in the shop and soak the heavy stuff off first.

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)

On 2008-01-03, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 02 Jan 2008 20:07:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus3921 quickly quoth:

I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

Just for fun, try washing them sometime, Ig. gd&r But seriously,
the sharp sand in dirt will cause gloves to fail more quickly so
washing them frequently will help extend their lives.

I did wash them in the clothes washer, it did not help much.

i

"Ignoramus3921" wrote in message
...
I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

The sort of work that I do with them, mostly, is moving various heavy
or unpleasant to hold things. Typical example would be cinderblock or
Parker Parkrimp-1 hydraulic hose crimper.

i

Thanks. As you grow older, you get thriftier. For some work, good gloves
are worth it, but I always seem to end up using good gloves for crappy work
and ruining them. I hate ruining good gloves on crappy work. I do have a
few pairs I use for specific purposes.

When I drove fork lift, I liked the deerskin or elk skin. A little spendy,
but you could write with them on, and you had a good feel for the controls.
There were two other guys who did the same. We talked about it one day, and
noticed that the same fingers would wear out from using the controls.
Operators used their fingertips. Drivers yanked on the whole control arm.

Steve

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 22:11:46 -0800, "SteveB"
wrote:


"Ignoramus3921" wrote in message
m...
I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

The sort of work that I do with them, mostly, is moving various heavy
or unpleasant to hold things. Typical example would be cinderblock or
Parker Parkrimp-1 hydraulic hose crimper.

i

Thanks. As you grow older, you get thriftier. For some work, good gloves
are worth it, but I always seem to end up using good gloves for crappy work
and ruining them. I hate ruining good gloves on crappy work. I do have a
few pairs I use for specific purposes.

When I drove fork lift, I liked the deerskin or elk skin. A little spendy,
but you could write with them on, and you had a good feel for the controls.
There were two other guys who did the same. We talked about it one day, and
noticed that the same fingers would wear out from using the controls.
Operators used their fingertips. Drivers yanked on the whole control arm.

Steve

Best gloves I ever found for winter work in land surveying were top
of the line ski gloves, preferably dayglow seafoam green - so
f#^*king ugly they will never even be borrowed, much less stolen.
Sufficiently flexible you can adjust verniers and keep notes with warm
fingers.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

On Wed, 02 Jan 2008 21:48:00 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus3921 quickly quoth:

On 2008-01-03, Larry Jaques novalidaddress@di wrote:
On Wed, 02 Jan 2008 20:07:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus3921 quickly quoth:

I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

Just for fun, try washing them sometime, Ig. gd&r But seriously,
the sharp sand in dirt will cause gloves to fail more quickly so
washing them frequently will help extend their lives.

I did wash them in the clothes washer, it did not help much.

You snipped my second paragraph, the key reason for your washing
failure. Here it is again:

"Work with the wifey-poo to see how she wants them prewashed before
they go in HER washer, though. I'm not married but I know a few guys
who are. Keep a bucket of your favorite degreaser and water (heated
shop, preferably) in the shop and soak the heavy stuff off first."

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)

In article , Ignoramus3921
wrote:

I followed Steve B's advice. I went to Home Depot and tried a lot of
gloves. I bought three pairs of very nice $1.95 gloves which fit very
well. I believe that the ones I had that wore out and became all
dirty, were the same gloves, but by now they became completely
unrecognizable after a few years, so it is hard to say.

The sort of work that I do with them, mostly, is moving various heavy
or unpleasant to hold things. Typical example would be cinderblock or
Parker Parkrimp-1 hydraulic hose crimper.

i

I don't know for sure but it sounds as if these are the same gloves
available at HF for about $.99 (they sell in packs of 6).

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37329

AG