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Larry Jaques Larry Jaques is offline
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Default Working leather gloves from mcmaster

On Mon, 31 Dec 2007 23:23:53 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
Ignoramus8643 quickly quoth:

On 2008-01-01, Pete C. wrote:
Ignoramus8643 wrote:

Would anyone recommend any mcmaster numbers for leather gloves. All my
gloves are used up, and dirty beyond recognition and torn, and I am
looking for something very nice. The HF gloves leave very much to be
desired, so I want to try my luck at McMaster-Carr. I have some money
to burn also and want to get something that I could use with pleasure
for a long time.

i


You want the Tillman TIG welding gloves, forget the model number but I
think they're deerskin. At any rate, use them for TIG welding and then
when they get a bit grungy move them to general work glove duty and put
a fresh pair into welding service. Since I found them I haven't used
much of anything else for gloves. They aren't expansive either. McMaster
5346T5 or perhaps 5346T1.


I have exactly those tig gloves for TIG welding, they are great but
they are too thin for general stuff (like lifting things with sharp
edges). I a looking for cow leather type gloves. McMaster has a little
bit too many choices.


I have dozens of pairs of various gloves and have found that if I use
them for their intended purpose, they last a helluva lot longer.


Some are rubber (pvc?) coated (for glass) or dipped (for flagstone)
for slippery work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90913


Some are cotton canvas or knit for gardening.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46992
The black dots make a big difference in their usable life.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=492

Some are jersey for winter warmth. I don't stay out long.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=492

Some are split leather for tough work. These bleed the color onto your
palms and wrists. Lovely.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39790

I generally wear nitriles or latex for chemical work and cleanups.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37050
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36118

I wear XL split leather over jersey for doing blackberry vine removal.
Most of the above gloves come in 6-pair packs for under $6 on sale.
Nitriles go for as little as $4/100, latex $3/100.

And I have some of the U.S. General mechanic's gloves which work well
but die early. I probably need to try a better brand. They're padded
with leather palms, and the palms split/go away.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92171

Maybe these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93640

Or one of these kevlars?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92172
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95569


These deer/pigskin types are on sale and I'll try these next.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34531

I'll have to try these TIG gloves, too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38197

The 90913s (dipped gloves) seem to work well and hold up under many
harsh conditions. I've done lots of gardening work and installed
about 150' of flagstone pathway with one pair so far. They're the
closest to general purpose gloves I own. But when they get wet, they
need to be washed out and dried in the dryer or they reek from mildew.
The knit backs let out regular hand moisture, but the rubber fronts
keep in the wet if you get them soaked.

Try those kevlars for your heavy sharp work and let us know how you
like them, Ig.

---
Stay centered by accepting whatever you are doing.
This is the ultimate.
--Chuang-tzu (369 BC - 286 BC)