this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself.
russ (from Oz)


I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

Bit of a sucker for sewing machines myself, bought an Husqvarna
computerised one at garage sale. Works beaut on straight stitch, but
smashes needle immediately upon selecting anything else. Full of stepper
motors to do what was once done with simple mechanisms - I guess its
brains are scrambled. Not worth the effort of learning how to fix, I'll
avoid these in future.

Jordan

hi all
i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some wife
approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple,
along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have
more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine
has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is
smooth, but stiff.

Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white
lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing
if that was needed.

appreciate all suggestions!

russ (from Oz)

On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 22:44:45 +1100, Jordan wrote:

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself.
russ (from Oz)

I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

How is a gum-forming water displacer going to help in a lint-heavy
environment, please?

"x" wrote in message
...
hi all
i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some
wife approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple,
along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have
more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened,
i can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to
the spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This
machine has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The
action is smooth, but stiff.

Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white
lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing
if that was needed.

appreciate all suggestions!

russ (from Oz)



If the old lube has become thick and gunky you may be able to wash it out
using aerosol pack CO contact cleaner (from Atkins / maybe Dick Smith
Electronics / Repco / Coventry's). I would use white or silicone grease too,
note I _don't_ mean silicon heatsink grease. Others may know a better
solution, maybe try phoning local sewing machine service company. I've fixed
similar things where the grease has thickened through heat, aging and dust.
I have not had problems but check the contact cleaner will not harm any
plastic casings or gears etc. A syringe may help get the grease in where it
is needed.

I just remembered that decades ago Singer used to supply a very light oil in
a plastic squeeze bottle with new sewing machines. Maybe this would still
work! Good luck.

On Tue, 6 Nov 2007 23:22:57 +1100, with neither quill nor qualm, "x"
quickly quoth:

hi all
i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some wife
approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple,
along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have
more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine
has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is
smooth, but stiff.

My pedal (on a CONSEW model 210 and universal table) has a brake
connected through the clutch, so doublecheck that the pedal isn't all
the way back when you spin the machine by hand.

Actual stiffness in a sewing machine usually indicates thread caught
in places it shouldn't be. DAMHIKT. Triplecheck the bobbin area,
disassemble the drive foot plates to check there, etc.


Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white
lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

Good question. Does the local sewing machine repairman have any
suggestions or carry Husky service manuals?


I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing
if that was needed.

Grok that. Write to Husky and ask for manuals and answers to your
questions if they persist. And learn how to time sewing machines.
Women will cook wondrous goodies for you if you do, and your wife
won't mind it.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
When I die, I'm leaving my body to science fiction. --Steven Wright
----------------------------

If the old lube has become thick and gunky you may be able to wash it out
using aerosol pack CO contact cleaner (from Atkins / maybe Dick Smith

For cleaning all the grease and junk out of anything, get Brake Clean from
the auto parts store. Works great on all sorts of mechanisms. There will be
no lube left, you'll have to re-lube after it dries.

Karl

On Tue, 6 Nov 2007 23:22:57 +1100, "x" wrote:

hi all
i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some wife
approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple,
along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have
more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine
has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is
smooth, but stiff.

Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white
lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing
if that was needed.

appreciate all suggestions!

russ (from Oz)


not sure of the husky but when the janomi sewing machine and
overlocker stiffen up I remove all the fluff from the mechanisms and
lube with sewing machine oil. they run like clocks for a few years
after that.

shouldnt be any need to disassemble.

Stealth Pilot

Dave Hinz wrote:
On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 22:44:45 +1100, Jordan wrote:
this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself.
russ (from Oz)
I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

How is a gum-forming water displacer going to help in a lint-heavy
environment, please?

Especially one that turns to sticky, indelible wax when the
volatiles evaporate? /mark

On Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:34:52 -0600, "Karl Townsend"
wrote:

If the old lube has become thick and gunky you may be able to wash it out
using aerosol pack CO contact cleaner (from Atkins / maybe Dick Smith

For cleaning all the grease and junk out of anything, get Brake Clean from
the auto parts store. Works great on all sorts of mechanisms. There will be
no lube left, you'll have to re-lube after it dries.

CAUTION: There may not be any plastic gears or cams left intact,
either. Some solvents used as "Brake Cleaner" are very aggressive to
plastics, and newer sewing machines have lots of plastic parts.

-- Bruce --

"x" wrote in message
...
hi all
i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some
wife
approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple,
along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have
more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened,
i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to
the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine
has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is
smooth, but stiff.

Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white
lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing
if that was needed.

appreciate all suggestions!

russ (from Oz)
Try yahoo groups- there's several groups that are dedicated to husky
(viking) sewing machines. Pat

Dave Hinz wrote:

I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

How is a gum-forming water displacer going to help in a lint-heavy
environment, please?


I was thinking of its penetrating and dissolving actions. Good idea to
clean it up and lubricate properly afterwards. A poor workman blames his
tools.

Jordan wrote:


this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When
opened, i can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of
assistance to the spring return, but there is no way it will return by
itself.
russ (from Oz)


I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

Bit of a sucker for sewing machines myself, bought an Husqvarna
computerised one at garage sale. Works beaut on straight stitch, but
smashes needle immediately upon selecting anything else. Full of stepper
motors to do what was once done with simple mechanisms - I guess its
brains are scrambled. Not worth the effort of learning how to fix, I'll
avoid these in future.

Jordan

I can't resist asking the obvious question. did you change the foot
plate to the wide hole when you were selecting other than straight
stitch? I've done the same thing a couple of times when in a hurry and,
as you said, smashed the needle.

Jim Chandler

Jim Chandler wrote:
did you change the foot
plate to the wide hole when you were selecting other than straight
stitch? I've done the same thing a couple of times when in a hurry and,
as you said, smashed the needle.

Jim Chandler

No, the wide hole is standard.
It could be that the mechanical timing is out, but I doubt it and have
lost interest in this machine anyway.
Makes me think: should I avoid CNC metalworking machinery?

Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than
a Water Displacing liquid.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 09:59:23 +1100, Jordan
wrote:

Dave Hinz wrote:

I'd try applying a bit of WD40 to the hinge bearing.

How is a gum-forming water displacer going to help in a lint-heavy
environment, please?


I was thinking of its penetrating and dissolving actions. Good idea to
clean it up and lubricate properly afterwards. A poor workman blames his
tools.
Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than
a Water Displacing liquid.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Jordan wrote:

Bit of a sucker for sewing machines myself

I learned a bit of sewing from my mom and sister, both very
talented, and have been looking for a machine for patching
jeans, etc. Found a beautiful Phaff with all the original
accessories, manuals, and carrying case, for a mere $50.

Mom did some checking for me and it was made between the
early 50's and early 60's, but has a low serial number, so
likely it's older than I am.

I did a bit of research, and these sell for up to $750
depending on condition!

The sewing machine I really want is the antique Singer
cobbler's sewing machine that has been in the family since
the 1920's. Over the past few decades it's sewn up riding
boots, leathers, and seat covers, and ought to last another
century!


Jon

The sewing machine I really want is the antique Singer cobbler's sewing
machine that has been in the family since the 1920's. Over the past few
decades it's sewn up riding boots, leathers, and seat covers, and ought
to last another century!


Jon

That sounds like a patching machine, with a big truss across the top?

During school holidays in the late '60s I had a job doing final assembly
on imported Singers. They had a shopfront, and someone had traded in her
old Pfaff. The mechanics were marvelling at how it could do about 1,000
stitches in a few seconds, each one perfect. "Wish ours could do that",
said one of them. The Singers made then were pretty horrible.

do you know how to time a machine? It's not that
difficult and you may be right. The needle may be hitting the looper or
other part of the bobbin.

Jim Chandler

Yes, but it sews fine on straight stitch, the only check I did before I
bought it unfortunately. It's the timing of the zigzag that's gone
crazy. It might need a PCB repair, but it's just not enough fun.

Jordan wrote:

Jim Chandler wrote:

did you change the foot plate to the wide hole when you were
selecting other than straight stitch? I've done the same thing a
couple of times when in a hurry and, as you said, smashed the needle.

Jim Chandler


No, the wide hole is standard.
It could be that the mechanical timing is out, but I doubt it and have
lost interest in this machine anyway.
Makes me think: should I avoid CNC metalworking machinery?

That's a thought. do you know how to time a machine? It's not that
difficult and you may be right. The needle may be hitting the looper or
other part of the bobbin.

Jim Chandler

According to Jordan :

Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than
a Water Displacing liquid.

[ ... ]

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

No -- 3in1 is also something which gums up over time. It is
actually better as a furniture polish than as a lubricant. And it is
certainly not a penetrating solvent.

Better to get something which actually claims to be a
penetrating oil, such as "Marvel Mystery Oil", which has always been
better than 3in1 -- though there are more expensive oils which may be
better overall.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 13:49:48 +1100, Jordan
wrote:


Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than
a Water Displacing liquid.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I take the point, 3in1 OK?
Not much. Go to a sport shop and get some reel oil, or, in a pinch use
#5 motor oil or even kerosene.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Jon Anderson" wrote in message
. ..
Jordan wrote:

Bit of a sucker for sewing machines myself

I learned a bit of sewing from my mom and sister, both very talented, and
have been looking for a machine for patching jeans, etc. Found a beautiful
Phaff with all the original accessories, manuals, and carrying case, for a
mere $50.

Mom did some checking for me and it was made between the early 50's and
early 60's, but has a low serial number, so likely it's older than I am.

I did a bit of research, and these sell for up to $750 depending on
condition!

The sewing machine I really want is the antique Singer cobbler's sewing
machine that has been in the family since the 1920's. Over the past few
decades it's sewn up riding boots, leathers, and seat covers, and ought to
last another century!


Jon

I got a Singer 111W155 Walking Foot that was manufactured in 1957 according
to the serial number. It will sew a lot of stuff, including leather, but I
bought it to do canvas awnings and shade cloth material, which it will do
without breaking a sweat. I have yet to break it out and try it. I do know
an EXCELLENT sewing machine repairman in Las Vegas that has been fixing and
redoing machines for thirty odd years. I will probably take it to him first
just to be sure.

Problem is, I got the base and motor, and everything that came with it new,
and it' a moose to move. And I probably paid too much for it ............
$250.

Looking forward to making Sunbrella house awnings all around this summer
with square metal frames.

Steve

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 13:49:48 +1100, Jordan
wrote:


Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than
a Water Displacing liquid.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

Pblaster or similar. 3n1 has little penetrating properties.

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

On Tue, 06 Nov 2007 20:27:34 -0800, Jon Anderson
wrote:

Jordan wrote:

Bit of a sucker for sewing machines myself

I learned a bit of sewing from my mom and sister, both very
talented, and have been looking for a machine for patching
jeans, etc. Found a beautiful Phaff with all the original
accessories, manuals, and carrying case, for a mere $50.


Check the various second hand stores. Goodwill, St. Vincent D'Paul and
so forth. One can regularly find NICE sewing machines for $20-30

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional,
illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an
unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the
proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

On Nov 6, 2:22 am, "x" wrote:
hi all
i'm hoping one of you fine gentlemen will be able to help me gain some wife
approval points...

she has a husqvarna (viking) '2000 SL' sewing machine (actually a couple,
along with a bunch of others! - we arent the only species who has to have
more than one of anything!)

this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine
has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is
smooth, but stiff.

Any suggestions? any idea what the original lube might be? i guess white
lithium style grease, does that dry out over time?

I could disassemble but i'd rather not as i am not familiar with re-timing
if that was needed.

appreciate all suggestions!

russ (from Oz)

I'd use Singer sewing machine oil and grease myself. Any sewing
machine place should have it.
Karl

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 13:49:48 +1100, Jordan wrote:

Better to use something designed as a penetrating solvent rather than
a Water Displacing liquid.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

No. They sell this stuff called "sewing machine oil" at a place called
the "sewing machine store". It's extremely light, doesn't gum, doesn't
drip, doesn't stain, etc. It's the right material for the purpose.
Unless your goal is to make the problem worse, either find out what it
is (hint: not a hardware store item), or just GO BUY SOME and use the
right stuff.

On Tue, 6 Nov 2007 23:22:57 +1100, "x" wrote:

snip
this one, and i think also the other, gets stuck in reverse. When opened, i
can return it to forwards by applying a moderate amount of assistance to the
spring return, but there is no way it will return by itself. This machine
has 'lifetime lubrication' so there is no way to add oil. The action is
smooth, but stiff.
snip

I have heard/rumor that they use Teflon bearing surfaces.
Don't know how this would be done. The machine (Husqvarna)
that I've stuck my nose into looked much the same as any
other that needs lube. I did use some Singer Sewing Machine
oil in this same machine (most any store carries this, try
the Walmart sewing area). As far as I can tell it didn't
have any ill effects. It really bothered me to see all the
dry bearing surfaces in it...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Nov 6, 11:03 am, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:
On Tue, 6 Nov 2007 07:34:52 -0600, "Karl Townsend"

wrote:
If the old lube has become thick and gunky you may be able to wash it out
using aerosol pack CO contact cleaner (from Atkins / maybe Dick Smith

For cleaning all the grease and junk out of anything, get Brake Clean from
the auto parts store. Works great on all sorts of mechanisms. There will be
no lube left, you'll have to re-lube after it dries.

CAUTION: There may not be any plastic gears or cams left intact,
either. Some solvents used as "Brake Cleaner" are very aggressive to
plastics, and newer sewing machines have lots of plastic parts.

-- Bruce --

Bruce is quite right on this.

Be darn sure there is not a plastic gear hiding somewhere....

TMT

According to SteveB :

[ ... ]

I got a Singer 111W155 Walking Foot that was manufactured in 1957 according
to the serial number. It will sew a lot of stuff, including leather, but I
bought it to do canvas awnings and shade cloth material, which it will do
without breaking a sweat. I have yet to break it out and try it. I do know
an EXCELLENT sewing machine repairman in Las Vegas that has been fixing and
redoing machines for thirty odd years. I will probably take it to him first
just to be sure.

Problem is, I got the base and motor, and everything that came with it new,
and it' a moose to move. And I probably paid too much for it ............
$250.

Interestingly enough, I use my little Singer 221B (folding
portable) occasionally for sewing leather, and it works quite well for
the task. (Granted, it is not particularly thick leather which I sew,
but it is still leather. ;-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Dave Hinz wrote:

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

No. They sell this stuff called "sewing machine oil" at a place called
the "sewing machine store". It's extremely light, doesn't gum, doesn't
drip, doesn't stain, etc. It's the right material for the purpose.
Unless your goal is to make the problem worse, either find out what it
is (hint: not a hardware store item), or just GO BUY SOME and use the
right stuff.


Never heard of it.

Q: Is sewing machine oil thinner than penetrating oil?

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
According to SteveB :

[ ... ]

I got a Singer 111W155 Walking Foot that was manufactured in 1957
according
to the serial number. It will sew a lot of stuff, including leather, but
I
bought it to do canvas awnings and shade cloth material, which it will do
without breaking a sweat. I have yet to break it out and try it. I do
know
an EXCELLENT sewing machine repairman in Las Vegas that has been fixing
and
redoing machines for thirty odd years. I will probably take it to him
first
just to be sure.

Problem is, I got the base and motor, and everything that came with it
new,
and it' a moose to move. And I probably paid too much for it
............
$250.

Interestingly enough, I use my little Singer 221B (folding
portable) occasionally for sewing leather, and it works quite well for
the task. (Granted, it is not particularly thick leather which I sew,
but it is still leather. ;-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

Was it LaSorda or Yogi who said, "It ain't bragging if you can do it"?

Steve

Dave Hinz wrote:
On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 11:20:06 +1100, Jordan wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:
I take the point, 3in1 OK?
No. They sell this stuff called "sewing machine oil" at a place called
the "sewing machine store". It's extremely light, doesn't gum, doesn't
drip, doesn't stain, etc. It's the right material for the purpose.
Unless your goal is to make the problem worse, either find out what it
is (hint: not a hardware store item), or just GO BUY SOME and use the
right stuff.

Never heard of it.
Q: Is sewing machine oil thinner than penetrating oil?

It's clear that you're not qualified to "fix" the machine you're
tinkering with. Do yourself a favor and pay someone competent.


Hey, cool down Dave.
Sorry if you feel offended, just thought I'd bounce you back, fair enough?

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 11:20:06 +1100, Jordan wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

I take the point, 3in1 OK?

No. They sell this stuff called "sewing machine oil" at a place called
the "sewing machine store". It's extremely light, doesn't gum, doesn't
drip, doesn't stain, etc. It's the right material for the purpose.
Unless your goal is to make the problem worse, either find out what it
is (hint: not a hardware store item), or just GO BUY SOME and use the
right stuff.

Never heard of it.
Q: Is sewing machine oil thinner than penetrating oil?

It's clear that you're not qualified to "fix" the machine you're
tinkering with. Do yourself a favor and pay someone competent.

To answer your question, no, sewing machine oil isn't thinner than
penetrating oil.
Ed Huntress


Thanks Ed.
I was trying to suggest something that might unstick the OP's stiff
reverse lever. WD is something you can find anywhere easily, and he
might have had some to hand. Lubrication wasn't the issue, initially anyway.
Both you and Dave have kindly helped with many little queries I've
posted here in the past.
Keep it up!

Jordan

"Jordan" wrote in message
u...
Dave Hinz wrote:
On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 11:20:06 +1100, Jordan
wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:
I take the point, 3in1 OK?
No. They sell this stuff called "sewing machine oil" at a place called
the "sewing machine store". It's extremely light, doesn't gum, doesn't
drip, doesn't stain, etc. It's the right material for the purpose.
Unless your goal is to make the problem worse, either find out what it
is (hint: not a hardware store item), or just GO BUY SOME and use the
right stuff.

Never heard of it.
Q: Is sewing machine oil thinner than penetrating oil?

It's clear that you're not qualified to "fix" the machine you're
tinkering with. Do yourself a favor and pay someone competent.


Hey, cool down Dave.
Sorry if you feel offended, just thought I'd bounce you back, fair enough?

To answer your question, no, sewing machine oil isn't thinner than
penetrating oil. But it's the lowest-viscosity oil you're likely to see for
a consumer application that still has the ability to lubricate. Penetrating
oil, like WD-40 and lots of other oily things, has almost no lubricating
ability at all.

Any sewing-machine store will have it. Buy the most expensive kind you can
find. It's the only thing to use on your sewing machine.

Having said that, I'll tell you that I cheat a little and use Starrett
Instrument Oil, which is just slightly heavier, on the bearing surfaces in
my old Morse machine that I have identified as high-load bearings. I've
gotten away with it for over 20 years now, oiling about once a year, and it
seems to do a fine job. But I would not use it in the lightly-loaded bearing
surfaces that move at high speed. Unless you have a very good sense of
bearing loads and lubrication, stick to the sewing machine oil throughout.

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 7 Nov 2007 17:12:09 -0800, "SteveB" wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote...

Interestingly enough, I use my little Singer 221B (folding
portable) occasionally for sewing leather, and it works quite well for
the task. (Granted, it is not particularly thick leather which I sew,
but it is still leather. ;-)

Was it LaSorda or Yogi who said, "It ain't bragging if you can do it"?

All the references I find point to Dizzy Dean.

The Featherweight is a great little machine, Mom found several in
her wanderings - in some ways she Out-Gunner'd Gunner by a mile. ;-)
Walks in with a Ridgid #2 pipe cutter in pristine condition ($160),
and she had the balls to say "It was $2 - did I pay too much?"

(Good night Mrs. Bergman, wherever you are.)

The one I grabbed to see "which model is he talking about..." was
the sole 221K White (Made in Great Britain) she had. There's at least
two each of the Green and Black variety around here somewhere. But I
won't say where here is, in case there are any rabid quilt makers
waiting to mug me for a sewing machine.

(Satire Alert - put down the Mountain Dew before reading further,
unless you want a good excuse to go buy a new monitor.)

Remember The Rules: Guys don't make clothing - and we sure as HELL
don't make matching His And Hers outfits - matter of fact it's your
sacred duty under the Man Code to burn anything resembling them if
found, and never allow yourself to be seen in public in same. :-P

But we are allowed to repair holes and ripped out inseams in work
clothes, and hem our Levis and Carhartts, make sails and spray covers
and light covers and shifter boots and upholstery, and do other Guy
Things with a sewing machine. It still qualifies as a Power Tool, but
only when used properly. ;-)

-- Bruce --

We have a Singer 132K6 walking foot leather and canvas machine which my
grandfather bought for the carpet business he founded in 1936, although I
don't know how old the machine is - be around then. My father used to show
off and sew 3 ply plywood with it... Found the original packing crate under
the house when granddad died...
I used it the other day to fix a sun umbrella that came from the rubbish.
Geoff

Geoff wrote:
We have a Singer 132K6 walking foot leather and canvas machine

Now you're talking - that's a classic motor trimmer's machine. Built
simple and robust, massive bobbin, easy to use and service. Alas,
they're also pretty expensive, so I bought a Seiko walking foot instead.
Not bad but with a much smaller bobbing I have to reload it more often.
Will stitch 5/16" vinyl, leather, etc FAST.

On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 00:08:09 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

The Featherweight is a great little machine, Mom found several in
her wanderings - in some ways she Out-Gunner'd Gunner by a mile. ;-)
Walks in with a Ridgid #2 pipe cutter in pristine condition ($160),
and she had the balls to say "It was $2 - did I pay too much?"

(Good night Mrs. Bergman, wherever you are.)

I'm glad you didn't say "audacity". That took balls.


The one I grabbed to see "which model is he talking about..." was
the sole 221K White (Made in Great Britain) she had. There's at least
two each of the Green and Black variety around here somewhere. But I
won't say where here is, in case there are any rabid quilt makers
waiting to mug me for a sewing machine.

Only wimmenz make quiltz.


(Satire Alert - put down the Mountain Dew before reading further,
unless you want a good excuse to go buy a new monitor.)

Nah, it's the keyboard which gets ruined by sugary crap like that.


Remember The Rules: Guys don't make clothing - and we sure as HELL
don't make matching His And Hers outfits - matter of fact it's your
sacred duty under the Man Code to burn anything resembling them if
found, and never allow yourself to be seen in public in same. :-P

Amen!


But we are allowed to repair holes and ripped out inseams in work
clothes, and hem our Levis and Carhartts, make sails and spray covers
and light covers and shifter boots and upholstery, and do other Guy
Things with a sewing machine. It still qualifies as a Power Tool, but
only when used properly. ;-)

I make my laptop glare guards with mine. And manly pillow cases. (I
needed one for a reading wedge I bought which was naked.) I also used
it for curtains in the gar^H^H^Hshop. We can't have people peeking at
all the tools now, can we?

-----------------------------------------------------------------
When I die, I'm leaving my body to science fiction. --Steven Wright
----------------------------

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 00:08:09 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

The Featherweight is a great little machine, Mom found several in
her wanderings - in some ways she Out-Gunner'd Gunner by a mile. ;-)
Walks in with a Ridgid #2 pipe cutter in pristine condition ($160),
and she had the balls to say "It was $2 - did I pay too much?"

(Good night Mrs. Bergman, wherever you are.)

I'm glad you didn't say "audacity". That took balls.


The one I grabbed to see "which model is he talking about..." was
the sole 221K White (Made in Great Britain) she had. There's at least
two each of the Green and Black variety around here somewhere. But I
won't say where here is, in case there are any rabid quilt makers
waiting to mug me for a sewing machine.

Only wimmenz make quiltz.


(Satire Alert - put down the Mountain Dew before reading further,
unless you want a good excuse to go buy a new monitor.)

Nah, it's the keyboard which gets ruined by sugary crap like that.


Remember The Rules: Guys don't make clothing - and we sure as HELL
don't make matching His And Hers outfits - matter of fact it's your
sacred duty under the Man Code to burn anything resembling them if
found, and never allow yourself to be seen in public in same. :-P

Amen!


But we are allowed to repair holes and ripped out inseams in work
clothes, and hem our Levis and Carhartts, make sails and spray covers
and light covers and shifter boots and upholstery, and do other Guy
Things with a sewing machine. It still qualifies as a Power Tool, but
only when used properly. ;-)

I make my laptop glare guards with mine. And manly pillow cases. (I
needed one for a reading wedge I bought which was naked.) I also used
it for curtains in the gar^H^H^Hshop. We can't have people peeking at
all the tools now, can we?

If you keep making your pillow cases out of awning canvas and your curtains
out of rawhide, people are going to want to peek anyway.

--
Ed Huntress