Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?

On 8/1/2018 11:41 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?


You can buy fobs off eBay but you usually have to have it programmed by
a dealer.

On 8/1/18 11:41 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?


Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/

On 1 Aug 2018 20:57:28 GMT, "Retired wrote:

Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?


Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/

That's VERY NICE and useful!
Do we have TWO choices as shown here?
http://www.keylessride.com/order/chooseremote.asp?make=Mitsubishi&remoteyear=2004&m odel=Lancer

Certainly the original http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
Looks like the second one here...
http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=47286EA4

$105 remote plus programming
PROGRAMMING
Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools
for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.

On 1 Aug 2018 20:52:48 GMT, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

You can buy fobs off eBay but you usually have to have it programmed by
a dealer.

Do you know which number on the back is the "definitive" number for the
correct fob? http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
- FCC?
- Canada?
- Japanese?
- Omron?

On 02/08/2018 04:57, wrote:
On 8/1/18 11:41 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the
remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?


Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/

Hmm! interesting.

--
Bod

On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 05:36:27 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 1 Aug 2018 20:57:28 GMT, "Retired wrote:

Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?


Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/

That's VERY NICE and useful!
Do we have TWO choices as shown here?
http://www.keylessride.com/order/chooseremote.asp?make=Mitsubishi&remoteyear=2004&m odel=Lancer

Certainly the original http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
Looks like the second one here...
http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=47286EA4

$105 remote plus programming
PROGRAMMING
Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools
for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.
IOf you have 2, you can add 3rd and 4th etc very easily. With only
one I THINK it is a bit more difficult.

Try this:::

https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-m...-instructions/

When you are done your neighbor will think you are a genius!!!!

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 2 Aug 2018 05:36:27 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder wrote:

On 1 Aug 2018 20:57:28 GMT, "Retired wrote:

Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES

Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)

Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?


Here is one: http://www.keylessride.com/

That's VERY NICE and useful!
Do we have TWO choices as shown here?
http://www.keylessride.com/order/chooseremote.asp?make=Mitsubishi&remoteyear=2004&m odel=Lancer

Certainly the original http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg
Looks like the second one here...
http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=47286EA4

$105 remote plus programming
PROGRAMMING
Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools
for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.

You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
about $10. Insturctions are online for free.

You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.


I got keys the same way, for even less money.

And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

On 3 Aug 2018 00:57:29 GMT, micky wrote:

You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
about $10. Insturctions are online for free.

You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.


I got keys the same way, for even less money.

And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor
thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is
useful.

One question.

How do they prevent theft?

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
process.

On 2 Aug 2018 14:23:21 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

IOf you have 2, you can add 3rd and 4th etc very easily. With only
one I THINK it is a bit more difficult.

Try this:::

https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-m...-instructions/

When you are done your neighbor will think you are a genius!!!!

Wow Clare ... you are the genius!

If those instructions are legit, it sure seems that we can buy a handful of
remotes and just program them all together at the same time.

Here's my summary of that document:
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Keyless Entry Remote Fob Programming Instructions
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-mitsubishi-lancer-keyless-entry-remote-fob-programming-instructions/
"Many people don¢t know that they can purchase their own replacement
vehicle entry remote, save up to 70% off of marked up Dealership prices,
and program the replacement remote to their vehicle themselves."

First, verify this is on the back of the remote:
* FCC ID: OUCG8D-525M-A
* Factory Part No.: MR587983

I just looked at the original pictures where the FCC ID matches perfectly,
but that "Factory Part Number" doesn't exist on the current fob (maybe it's
already an aftermarket fob?).

1. Insert key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.
2. JUMP OBDII Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire.
3. Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times.
4. The door locks will cycle once indicating entry to Programming Mode.

On the first remote to be programmed...
5. PRESS the LOCK Button three (3) times within ten (10) seconds.
6. Door locks will cycle once indicating successful programming

7. For all other remotes, individually repeat step 5 within one (1) minute.

8. REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.
9. Programming is now complete.
10. Test all remotes.

Sometimes such things are like an "rm -r *" command, so I hope it's legit,
but if it is, it seems all I have to do for them is figure out if the
missing "Factory Part Number" is critical and where best to buy a handful
of these remotes!

On 8/3/2018 4:42 AM, Arlen Holder wrote:


How do they prevent theft?

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
process.


Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
one programmed.
Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.

My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
and did work for the company.

On 3 Aug 2018 06:06:23 GMT, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
one programmed.
Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.

My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
and did work for the company.

Thanks. I'm not trying to steal a car, but it seems, from Clare's nice
instructions, that all you need to do is buy the fob and get a hold of one
of the other fobs, and you can make keys.

Of course, all the fobs will be no good, so if you did it without the
knowledge of the owner, the owner's own key fobs would stop working.

But, according to what Clare sent, you don't need anything but the fob and
the car and that's it.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:42:12 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 00:57:29 GMT, micky wrote:

You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
about $10. Insturctions are online for free.

You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.


I got keys the same way, for even less money.

And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor

I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor
also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.

Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat,
so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit
when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas
pedal.

thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is
useful.

One question.

How do they prevent theft?

The 02 sensor won't admit oxygen unless you have proof you own the car.

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
process.

For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of
like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or
2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and
2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.

So if you don't have that, I think you have to go to a locksmith (who is
still probalby cheaper than the dealer, though iirc not every locksmith
can do this.)

My used cars both came with 2 keys and 2 fobs, or more, and because I
knew I'd have trouble making more if I got down to one fob (or key, I
forget) I made a bunch more. I have 4 of each now, I think. Even
though I've only lost one key in 50+ years and that was a house key I
dropped into my car's trunk. I was out of town, getting home late, had
to call a friend and have him leave my house key outside my house.

And another time was tubing and changed clothes and had left the key in
the trunk. Had to ask some poor girl who probalby thought I really
liked her to take me home 10 miles and back to the car. That will
teach her to be talking to me when I see that the key is locked in.

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:56:02 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder wrote:

On 2 Aug 2018 14:23:21 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

IOf you have 2, you can add 3rd and 4th etc very easily. With only
one I THINK it is a bit more difficult.

Try this:::

https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-m...-instructions/

When you are done your neighbor will think you are a genius!!!!

Wow Clare ... you are the genius!

If those instructions are legit, it sure seems that we can buy a handful of
remotes and just program them all together at the same time.

It used to be that when you did this, you had to reprogram the keys or
fobs (I forget which) that you already had, which were working, at the
same time you did a new one. (and I was afraid I'd mess them all up.)

but with my 2004 Chrysler and 2005 Toyota, I dont' think that was true.

Just follow the directions to the letter.

It might help to have someone read you the instructions while you do it.
At least for me, on the first couple tries, I can't remember more than
one step at a time, and the time it took for reading even though I
thought I turned the key on and off, or the lock button up and down, the
right number fo times, it took 4 or 5 tries to get it right. but that
was the first one. After that I got much better.



Here's my summary of that document:
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Keyless Entry Remote Fob Programming Instructions
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-mitsubishi-lancer-keyless-entry-remote-fob-programming-instructions/
"Many people don¢t know that they can purchase their own replacement
vehicle entry remote, save up to 70% off of marked up Dealership prices,
and program the replacement remote to their vehicle themselves."

First, verify this is on the back of the remote:
* FCC ID: OUCG8D-525M-A
* Factory Part No.: MR587983

I just looked at the original pictures where the FCC ID matches perfectly,
but that "Factory Part Number" doesn't exist on the current fob (maybe it's
already an aftermarket fob?).

1. Insert key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.
2. JUMP OBDII Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire.
3. Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times.
4. The door locks will cycle once indicating entry to Programming Mode.

On the first remote to be programmed...
5. PRESS the LOCK Button three (3) times within ten (10) seconds.
6. Door locks will cycle once indicating successful programming

7. For all other remotes, individually repeat step 5 within one (1) minute.

8. REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.
9. Programming is now complete.
10. Test all remotes.

Sometimes such things are like an "rm -r *" command, so I hope it's legit,
but if it is, it seems all I have to do for them is figure out if the
missing "Factory Part Number" is critical and where best to buy a handful
of these remotes!

On 3 Aug 2018 16:00:03 GMT, micky wrote:

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor

I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor
also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.

This is the thread...
Advice for stripped threads upstream oxygen sensor exhaust manifold
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.home.repair/mIcLF2bSnU8

Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat,
so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit
when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas
pedal.

AFAIK, oxygen sensors generally get replaced when they fail, and that
usually precipitates one of two clues:
a. You get a related oxygen sensor code, or,
b. You can't set a related readiness monitor.

Usually, AFAIK, it's the upstream sensor.
You can test them, but, you can't really test them (it's one of those
things you just replace).

For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of
like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or
2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and
2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.

Yeah. What Clare said was
a. Gather all the fobs you can (in this case, that's one).
b. Program the handful you have
c. That negates the ones you don't have

Who knew it was that easy.
Now all I have to do is buy the fobs.

My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the
fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.

I wonder if fobs can be programmed more than once?

On Fri, 03 Aug 2018 19:06:03 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:56:02 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder wrote:

On 2 Aug 2018 14:23:21 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

IOf you have 2, you can add 3rd and 4th etc very easily. With only
one I THINK it is a bit more difficult.

Try this:::

https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-m...-instructions/

When you are done your neighbor will think you are a genius!!!!

Wow Clare ... you are the genius!

If those instructions are legit, it sure seems that we can buy a handful of
remotes and just program them all together at the same time.

It used to be that when you did this, you had to reprogram the keys or
fobs (I forget which) that you already had, which were working, at the
same time you did a new one. (and I was afraid I'd mess them all up.)

but with my 2004 Chrysler and 2005 Toyota, I dont' think that was true.

\ On the mitsu it is true. Says right in the documentation. When you
go ito "programmode" it erases ALL existing remotes.

Just follow the directions to the letter.

It might help to have someone read you the instructions while you do it.
At least for me, on the first couple tries, I can't remember more than
one step at a time, and the time it took for reading even though I
thought I turned the key on and off, or the lock button up and down, the
right number fo times, it took 4 or 5 tries to get it right. but that
was the first one. After that I got much better.



Here's my summary of that document:
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Keyless Entry Remote Fob Programming Instructions
https://northcoastkeyless.com/2004-mitsubishi-lancer-keyless-entry-remote-fob-programming-instructions/
"Many people don¢t know that they can purchase their own replacement
vehicle entry remote, save up to 70% off of marked up Dealership prices,
and program the replacement remote to their vehicle themselves."

First, verify this is on the back of the remote:
* FCC ID: OUCG8D-525M-A
* Factory Part No.: MR587983

I just looked at the original pictures where the FCC ID matches perfectly,
but that "Factory Part Number" doesn't exist on the current fob (maybe it's
already an aftermarket fob?).

1. Insert key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.
2. JUMP OBDII Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire.
3. Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times.
4. The door locks will cycle once indicating entry to Programming Mode.

On the first remote to be programmed...
5. PRESS the LOCK Button three (3) times within ten (10) seconds.
6. Door locks will cycle once indicating successful programming

7. For all other remotes, individually repeat step 5 within one (1) minute.

8. REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.
9. Programming is now complete.
10. Test all remotes.

Sometimes such things are like an "rm -r *" command, so I hope it's legit,
but if it is, it seems all I have to do for them is figure out if the
missing "Factory Part Number" is critical and where best to buy a handful
of these remotes!

On Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:42:12 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 00:57:29 GMT, micky wrote:

You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
about $10. Insturctions are online for free.

You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.


I got keys the same way, for even less money.

And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor
thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is
useful.

One question.

How do they prevent theft?

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
process.
You need the car unlocked and the key in the ignition to program the
remotes - which doNOT unlock the steering column or allow you to drive
the car without the (usually chipped) key. The remote doesn't care who
owns the car - or even who has the remote.

On Fri, 3 Aug 2018 09:06:23 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 8/3/2018 4:42 AM, Arlen Holder wrote:


How do they prevent theft?

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
process.


Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
one programmed.
Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.

My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
and did work for the company.
The "fob" is nopt programmed. It is added to the programming of the
BCM of the car. You "train" the BCM - you don't "program" the fob.

With some Imobilizer keys you DO need to program the chip on the key.
On others you can train the ECM to accept the code in the key.

In MANY cases "programming" the key is actually "cloning" the key -
and if you have a car that has "memory seats" the cloned key will
always set the seat to the same position as the original, while a key
"trained" i to the ECM will have it's own settings.

On 3 Aug 2018 18:23:40 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

On the mitsu it is true. Says right in the documentation. When you
go ito "programmode" it erases ALL existing remotes

I'm gonna assume those "existing remotes" can be re-programmed on another
car?

There's a reason I ask, which is we're asking the original owner to come up
with more remotes, if he can.

BTW, does anyone know if the three-button remote Clare found can also be
used instead of the two-button remote the kid currently has?

The reason I ask is that, for some reason, the trunk doesn't open with the
one key he has, and, there's no way to open it by hand, so the *only* way
currently to open the trunk is via the lever in the cockpit (since the fob
he has is only a two-button fob).

Seems to me, if the three-button fob works, that this would solve the trunk
problem too.

On Fri, 3 Aug 2018 15:10:45 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 06:06:23 GMT, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
one programmed.
Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.

My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
and did work for the company.

Thanks. I'm not trying to steal a car, but it seems, from Clare's nice
instructions, that all you need to do is buy the fob and get a hold of one
of the other fobs, and you can make keys.

Of course, all the fobs will be no good, so if you did it without the
knowledge of the owner, the owner's own key fobs would stop working.

But, according to what Clare sent, you don't need anything but the fob and
the car and that's it.
That is for the remote entry fob - NOT the immobilizer key.

2 different animals - although some vehicles DO integrate the remote
entry fob into the head of the key.

The newer cars use RFID to automatically unloch the vehicle when you
approach, and lock it when you leave, and allow you to start the car
without a key by pressing the start button.

That is different technology COMPLETELY

On 3 Aug 2018 18:26:22 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

You need the car unlocked and the key in the ignition to program the
remotes - which doNOT unlock the steering column or allow you to drive
the car without the (usually chipped) key. The remote doesn't care who
owns the car - or even who has the remote.

Thanks Clare as you area always spot on correct.

In this case, the key is just a dumb key (I had it checked at Home Depot)
where the remote just unlocks and locks the doors.

It's the two-button remote as shown in this pictu
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7287633keyfob.jpg

The FCC ID is exactly the same, but it doesn't have any related P/N:
https://northcoastkeyless.com/shop/m...a-pn-mr587983/

If the three-button remote works too, that would be a godsend:
http://www.keylessride.com/order/quo...&frid=1A174E90

The reason is that the trunk won't open from the outside, as the key
doesn't open it and the fob doesn't have a button for it. The trunk only
opens right now from the inside of the cabin.

I think that's how we will go, thanks to your suggestions!
1. Buy a handful of 3-button remotes
2. Program them

Seems simple enough thanks to you!
(I have no experience with these things.)

On 3 Aug 2018 18:34:40 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

That is for the remote entry fob - NOT the immobilizer key.

I know what you mean because the sister of this kid has a Camry 2005 with
the immobilizer driving her nuts because it goes on constantly.

When I'm done helping with the 2004 Lancer, I may get her some remotes for
her Camry and program them.

2 different animals - although some vehicles DO integrate the remote
entry fob into the head of the key.

My even older bimmer does that.

The newer cars use RFID to automatically unloch the vehicle when you
approach, and lock it when you leave, and allow you to start the car
without a key by pressing the start button.

That is different technology COMPLETELY

Yup. These are older cars.

On 3 Aug 2018 18:31:19 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

The "fob" is nopt programmed. It is added to the programming of the
BCM of the car. You "train" the BCM - you don't "program" the fob.

With some Imobilizer keys you DO need to program the chip on the key.
On others you can train the ECM to accept the code in the key.

In MANY cases "programming" the key is actually "cloning" the key -
and if you have a car that has "memory seats" the cloned key will
always set the seat to the same position as the original, while a key
"trained" i to the ECM will have it's own settings.

Yup. My bimmer has that per-key "seat memory" too.

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 01:31:36 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 18:23:40 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

On the mitsu it is true. Says right in the documentation. When you
go ito "programmode" it erases ALL existing remotes

I'm gonna assume those "existing remotes" can be re-programmed on another
car?

Remember - you are NOT PROGRAMMING THE REMOTE.
You are training the BCM - or "adding the remote" to the BCM

There's a reason I ask, which is we're asking the original owner to come up
with more remotes, if he can.

BTW, does anyone know if the three-button remote Clare found can also be
used instead of the two-button remote the kid currently has?

The reason I ask is that, for some reason, the trunk doesn't open with the
one key he has, and, there's no way to open it by hand, so the *only* way
currently to open the trunk is via the lever in the cockpit (since the fob
he has is only a two-button fob).

Seems to me, if the three-button fob works, that this would solve the trunk
problem too.


If a 3 button fob is available for the car, it will work. Personally
I've never seen an OEM type fob with only 2 buttons, I'm sure they
must exist, but I've never run across one. I think even most pickup
trucks come with 3 button fobs (and some have power tailgate locks - -
-

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 01:19:13 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 16:00:03 GMT, micky wrote:

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor

I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor
also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.

This is the thread...
Advice for stripped threads upstream oxygen sensor exhaust manifold
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/alt.home.repair/mIcLF2bSnU8

Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat,
so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit
when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas
pedal.

AFAIK, oxygen sensors generally get replaced when they fail, and that
usually precipitates one of two clues:
a. You get a related oxygen sensor code, or,
b. You can't set a related readiness monitor.

Usually, AFAIK, it's the upstream sensor.
You can test them, but, you can't really test them (it's one of those
things you just replace).

For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of
like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or
2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and
2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.

Yeah. What Clare said was
a. Gather all the fobs you can (in this case, that's one).
b. Program the handful you have
c. That negates the ones you don't have

Who knew it was that easy.
Now all I have to do is buy the fobs.

My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the
fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.

I wonder if fobs can be programmed more than once?


The fob is NOT BEING PROGRAMMED. You can actually add the same fob
to more than one car .At the same time. You are programming the CAR to
the fob, not the other way around. Each fob has a unique identifier
code, and each make and model of car can use a specific range of
codes. Programming adds the identifier of the fob into the list of
acceptable codes (if it falls into the range for that vehicle) in the
car's body control module (computer)

On 3 Aug 2018 20:05:08 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

The fob is NOT BEING PROGRAMMED. You can actually add the same fob
to more than one car .At the same time. You are programming the CAR to
the fob, not the other way around. Each fob has a unique identifier
code, and each make and model of car can use a specific range of
codes. Programming adds the identifier of the fob into the list of
acceptable codes (if it falls into the range for that vehicle) in the
car's body control module (computer)

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!

On 3 Aug 2018 19:59:34 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

Remember - you are NOT PROGRAMMING THE REMOTE.
You are training the BCM - or "adding the remote" to the BCM

Thanks for that clarification (I saw it in another post also).
Much appreciated.

If a 3 button fob is available for the car, it will work. Personally
I've never seen an OEM type fob with only 2 buttons, I'm sure they
must exist, but I've never run across one. I think even most pickup
trucks come with 3 button fobs (and some have power tailgate locks - -
-

This one is two buttons, but I agree, the three button fob is the way to
go!
1. Lock
2. Unlock
3. Trunk

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 03:40:52 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 20:05:08 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

The fob is NOT BEING PROGRAMMED. You can actually add the same fob
to more than one car .At the same time. You are programming the CAR to
the fob, not the other way around. Each fob has a unique identifier
code, and each make and model of car can use a specific range of
codes. Programming adds the identifier of the fob into the list of
acceptable codes (if it falls into the range for that vehicle) in the
car's body control module (computer)

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!


... I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)
John T.

On 4 Aug 2018 01:01:12 GMT, wrote:

.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)

I always wondered if the same key (in the olden days, we all had metal
keys, remember?) would open more than one car...

On Sat, 04 Aug 2018 04:01:12 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 03:40:52 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 20:05:08 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

The fob is NOT BEING PROGRAMMED. You can actually add the same fob
to more than one car .At the same time. You are programming the CAR to
the fob, not the other way around. Each fob has a unique identifier
code, and each make and model of car can use a specific range of
codes. Programming adds the identifier of the fob into the list of
acceptable codes (if it falls into the range for that vehicle) in the
car's body control module (computer)

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!


.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)
John T.
It would have to have been programmed into the car - but I HAVE seen
a remote unlock the wrong car - I guess there are only so many
codes????

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 14:14:12 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 4 Aug 2018 01:01:12 GMT, wrote:

.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)

I always wondered if the same key (in the olden days, we all had metal
keys, remember?) would open more than one car...
Definitely.

The key to my Dads 66 ChevyVan would open and start his brother's (who
dad worked for at the time) 1958 Chevy 1 ton - and it also opened and
started a Pontiac that someone parked in front of the loading bay. (he
moved it to the far end of the industrial complex the shop was located
in)

In Zambia 15 keys would start virtually every Peugeot 404 (and quite
a few other peugeot models) in the country - so I put a FIAT ignition
switch in my 204

In article ,
says...

I always wondered if the same key (in the olden days, we all had metal
keys, remember?) would open more than one car...
Definitely.

The key to my Dads 66 ChevyVan would open and start his brother's (who
dad worked for at the time) 1958 Chevy 1 ton - and it also opened and
started a Pontiac that someone parked in front of the loading bay. (he
moved it to the far end of the industrial complex the shop was located
in)

In Zambia 15 keys would start virtually every Peugeot 404 (and quite
a few other peugeot models) in the country - so I put a FIAT ignition
switch in my 204



My parents had a 1963 Chevy Impala and that key would unlock and start a
friends Ols F85.

Three boys in high school each had a Fod Mustang. Fords had seperate
ingition keys and trunk keys. Between the 3 cars, each one could be
unlocked and started by finding the right combination of keys of the
other cars.

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 4 Aug 2018 01:19:13 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
Holder wrote:


My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the
fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.

I was looking for something else and I found this post, from a month
ago, so you probably won't see my answer, and if you do, I probaably
won't see yours. But my email address is good if you remove NONONO.

I too, with a 2005 Toyotal Solara had a problem that it only opened with
the fob or the lever on the floor.

Now I had 2 good fobs, but because it's a convertible, I had to disable
the lever on the floor. I guess the alarm would have gone off if they
climbed over the door or the back and opened the trunk, but the alarm
stops after a short time.

So if I'm out and the fob battery fails, no way to get into the trunk.

So I put in an electric switch, on the dash, that shoud have been there
in the first place. It wasn't that easy. Couuldn't find the wire --
well maybe I could see it but I couldn't reach it -- without removing
the left kickpanel and cutting into two different sheaths, looking for a
white wire. There were two of them so I had to test which one worked.
And I connected a push-button switch to that one and the cig lighter
that is hot when the ignition is on.

I'm really glad I did this.

On Saturday, August 4, 2018 at 11:01:14 AM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 04 Aug 2018 04:01:12 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 03:40:52 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 20:05:08 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

The fob is NOT BEING PROGRAMMED. You can actually add the same fob
to more than one car .At the same time. You are programming the CAR to
the fob, not the other way around. Each fob has a unique identifier
code, and each make and model of car can use a specific range of
codes. Programming adds the identifier of the fob into the list of
acceptable codes (if it falls into the range for that vehicle) in the
car's body control module (computer)

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!


.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)
John T.
It would have to have been programmed into the car - but I HAVE seen
a remote unlock the wrong car - I guess there are only so many
codes????

AFAIK, all have used pseudo random codes and the chance that any remote
would open another car is probably lower odds than winning the mega
millions lottery. Same thing with the newer garage door openers, made
in the last 25 years or so. Old ones did have fixed codes set with dip
switches.

On 9/1/2018 9:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!


.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)
John T.
It would have to have been programmed into the car - but I HAVE seen
a remote unlock the wrong car - I guess there are only so many
codes????

AFAIK, all have used pseudo random codes and the chance that any remote
would open another car is probably lower odds than winning the mega
millions lottery. Same thing with the newer garage door openers, made
in the last 25 years or so. Old ones did have fixed codes set with dip
switches.

I just saw something on the Genesis forum about that happening. I have
a Genesis G80 also and our cars have a "smart trunk" that will open for
you. Below is what this guy posted.

Walking through the parking lot at my daughters high school last Friday
night during the first football game of the season and as I walked by a
newer Toyota Sienna van the rear lift back started to raise and beep. As
I walk further away it closed.

I didnt think anything of it. Figured someone else was nearby with
their fob or maybe in the van.

Walked by a while later and it did the same thing. So I walked up to it
and sure enough it opened. As I walked away it closed. I played with it
a few times.

Apparently on the same frequency as my G80.

On Sat, 1 Sep 2018 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Saturday, August 4, 2018 at 11:01:14 AM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 04 Aug 2018 04:01:12 -0400, wrote:

On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 03:40:52 -0000 (UTC), Arlen Holder
wrote:

On 3 Aug 2018 20:05:08 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

The fob is NOT BEING PROGRAMMED. You can actually add the same fob
to more than one car .At the same time. You are programming the CAR to
the fob, not the other way around. Each fob has a unique identifier
code, and each make and model of car can use a specific range of
codes. Programming adds the identifier of the fob into the list of
acceptable codes (if it falls into the range for that vehicle) in the
car's body control module (computer)

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!


.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)
John T.
It would have to have been programmed into the car - but I HAVE seen
a remote unlock the wrong car - I guess there are only so many
codes????

AFAIK, all have used pseudo random codes and the chance that any remote
would open another car is probably lower odds than winning the mega
millions lottery. Same thing with the newer garage door openers, made
in the last 25 years or so. Old ones did have fixed codes set with dip
switches.

Then you see that guy with the lap top walking along opening car doors
and starting the cars.

On Saturday, September 1, 2018 at 10:01:58 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/1/2018 9:28 AM, trader_4 wrote:

That's interesting that the same fob can work on more than one vehicle!


.. I can just see it now - me - walking through the crowded
parking lot - clicking away to see if I can open any cars . :-)
John T.
It would have to have been programmed into the car - but I HAVE seen
a remote unlock the wrong car - I guess there are only so many
codes????

AFAIK, all have used pseudo random codes and the chance that any remote
would open another car is probably lower odds than winning the mega
millions lottery. Same thing with the newer garage door openers, made
in the last 25 years or so. Old ones did have fixed codes set with dip
switches.

I just saw something on the Genesis forum about that happening. I have
a Genesis G80 also and our cars have a "smart trunk" that will open for
you. Below is what this guy posted.

Walking through the parking lot at my daughters high school last Friday
night during the first football game of the season and as I walked by a
newer Toyota Sienna van the rear lift back started to raise and beep. As
I walk further away it closed.

I didnt think anything of it. Figured someone else was nearby with
their fob or maybe in the van.

Walked by a while later and it did the same thing. So I walked up to it
and sure enough it opened. As I walked away it closed. I played with it
a few times.

Apparently on the same frequency as my G80.

It's inconceivable that they just base it on frequency. It seems beyond
belief that they would base it on even a limited number of codes,
because a thief could run through a bunch of codes with a computer or
just capture the code you're transmitting and wait until you're gone
and then use it to open it. But obviously
something really dumb and bad is going on. IDK who you'd complain to,
because it wasn't your car that opened by mistake.