[Dave[_71_]]

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...d-1136676-.htm

[Stormin' Norman]

On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.

Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.

[dpb]

On 07/04/2017 5:44 PM, Dave wrote:
....

... So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if
that will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Cut off that much more that the present cutoff gives correct overall
height. Glue that back to the top; using some biscuits or dowels for
some extra glue surface area wouldn't hurt.

Or, just rip the hardwood off the cutoff and glue it on where it was and
trim the bottom for the height.

--

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 6:44:12 PM UTC-4, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...d-1136676-.htm

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 6:55:30 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.

Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.

IDK if there is some trim that would hide the boo boo, if there is then that would work. Otherwise I don't see that he has anything to lose by trying his idea. I'd put epoxy under the brackets too.

[Retired[_2_]]

On 7/4/17 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door
on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the
top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I
clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place
if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108



Is there a hardwood strip on the "bottom" of the door ? If so, could
you just turn it "upside down" ?

OR instead of using wood screws, uses a bolt, washers & nut thru a
hole drilled thru the door

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:23:25 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 6:55:30 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.

Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.

IDK if there is some trim that would hide the boo boo, if there is then that would work. Otherwise I don't see that he has anything to lose by trying his idea. I'd put epoxy under the brackets too.

Construction adhesive would be a choice too.

[Dean Hoffman[_12_]]

On 7/4/17 5:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on
the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm

Cut a bunch due to aioe quotation limits.
What about using hinges that attach to the side of the door?
Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Double-Sliding-Barn-Door-Hangers/dp/B01A7GQPOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499212672&sr=8-1&keywords=hanging+barn+door+hinge
or http://alturl.com/st8x9

[Reverend Harry Hardwick]

On 7/4/2017 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108


I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

[DerbyDad03]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

[Terry Coombs[_2_]]

On 7/5/2017 5:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108
Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.
A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

Better be a big router ... at least 1/2" collet , and if I were doing
this I'd probably hog most of it out with a circular saw and just finish
the slot with the router . At a minimum a couple of 2x4's clamped on to
give the saw and router bases some stability . The OP might be able to
clean the slot up to the outer veneer layers , clean up the wood strip
he cut off and glue it back in . I've done this with hollow core doors
with good results .

--

Snag

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 03:49:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

You just have trouble getting it very deep.
If the surface of the door is not important, you could use one of
those cylinder shaped nuts. That is what the furniture guys use in
that sawdust material.

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 8:57:48 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 03:49:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top off
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

You just have trouble getting it very deep.
If the surface of the door is not important, you could use one of
those cylinder shaped nuts. That is what the furniture guys use in
that sawdust material.

How deep do you think it needs to be? He mentioned that he cut off "a couple
of inches" but he didn't say that all 2€œ were hardwood or how long the screws were.

Even if he needed the full "couple of inches" you can get straight bits with 2" cut lengths.

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-12-142-.../dp/B0000225VZ

Multiple shallow passes could easily get him the full 2". A simple jig with a straight edge
clamped to the door and he's good to go.

Of course, he could also use the tool shown at 3:00 of this video. ;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiPyLtDpHto

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 8:29:14 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 7/5/2017 5:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly'
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108
Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.
A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

Better be a big router ... at least 1/2" collet , and if I were doing
this I'd probably hog most of it out with a circular saw and just finish
the slot with the router . At a minimum a couple of 2x4's clamped on to
give the saw and router bases some stability . The OP might be able to
clean the slot up to the outer veneer layers , clean up the wood strip
he cut off and glue it back in . I've done this with hollow core doors
with good results .



Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

Multiple shallow passes with a 2" cut length straight bit will get the job done, assuming he
actually needs the full 2". There are 1.5" cut lengths also. I recently bought a 5/8" bit with
a 1.5" cut length to route out a 3/4" recess for a deck of cards in a cribbage board I made.
With the 1/2" template for the recess, I needed at least 1.25".

http://i.imgur.com/ouehBqf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vooVWFE.jpg

I would expand on your 2x4 support idea and build a jig with a straight edge for the router to
follow.

[Wade Garrett]

On 7/4/17 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on
the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if
that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108


Turn it upside down?

--
I love a good meal. That's why I don't cook.

[Bob F]

On 7/4/2017 3:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on
the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if
that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108



Turn the door over?

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 12:15:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.

17 hours since the first post and you assume he's vanished? Maybe he has a job
that doesn't allow him to post all day.

Why do you doubt that he can do the work? If he doesn't have a doweling jig, he can buy
one for for $30-$90 depending on how much he plans to use it in the future. If he
doesn't have a router, he can buy one. It's an extremely useful tool. I have 3. If he's
never cut a slot and/or installed a spline, does that mean he'll never be able to?

Other than the fact that he screwed up the first cut (who hasn't?) how are you able to
access his skill-set, or more importantly, his ability to learn? I've been playing around
with home repair and woodworking for many years and I'm still learning new stuff. That's
one of the reasons I do it. I like the journey. Apparently, the OP does too since he took
it upon himself to cut the door in the first place.

[Tommy Silvah[_4_]]

On 07/04/2017 09:17 PM, Reverend Harry Hardwick wrote:
On 7/4/2017 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I
cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that
the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door
on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the
top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I
clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place
if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108



I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

That's cheating. We gotta buy hundreds of dollars worth of new power
tools. Don't you get it?

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 12:15:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.

17 hours since the first post and you assume he's vanished? Maybe he has a job
that doesn't allow him to post all day.

Why do you doubt that he can do the work? If he doesn't have a doweling jig, he can buy
one for for $30-$90 depending on how much he plans to use it in the future. If he
doesn't have a router, he can buy one. It's an extremely useful tool. I have 3. If he's
never cut a slot and/or installed a spline, does that mean he'll never be able to?

Other than the fact that he screwed up the first cut (who hasn't?) how are you able to
access his skill-set, or more importantly, his ability to learn? I've been playing around
with home repair and woodworking for many years and I'm still learning new stuff. That's
one of the reasons I do it. I like the journey. Apparently, the OP does too since he took
it upon himself to cut the door in the first place.


Oh good, the first ****ing contest of the day, whoo-hoo.

Yes, I suspect he has vanished, you can speculate until the cows come
home, but as of now, he has not returned.

As for all your other points, yes, some people are capable of learning
new things and buying all kinds of tools, etc. However, if he had the
motivation required, it is my opinion he would have been participating
in the discussion beyond the initial post and sooner than this point
in time. It seems many people who post through the home owners hub,
never follow-up.

Also, the idea of cutting a slot and installing a spline seems
needlessly complicated when one can install dowels using a jig, a
pencil, a drill, a mallet and some glue. The foundational principles
of proper engineering include keeping solutions as simple as possible
while attaining the desired end result.

Lastly, considering the door is 1.38 inches thick, with masonite outer
cladding and a particle board inner core, cutting a 3/4" slot in the
inner core would either eliminate the particle board or dramatically
weaken it. Not only does a long slot seem pointless, but it would
likely further damage the remaining structural integrity of that end
of the door. Removing as little material as possible seems to be the
most logical approach when trying repair this kind of a cluster-****.

Did I satisfy your need for ****ing contest? I have horses to feed and
a solar array to pressure wash.

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:20:04 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 09:43:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 12:15:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.

17 hours since the first post and you assume he's vanished? Maybe he has a job
that doesn't allow him to post all day.

Why do you doubt that he can do the work? If he doesn't have a doweling jig, he can buy
one for for $30-$90 depending on how much he plans to use it in the future. If he
doesn't have a router, he can buy one. It's an extremely useful tool. I have 3. If he's
never cut a slot and/or installed a spline, does that mean he'll never be able to?

Other than the fact that he screwed up the first cut (who hasn't?) how are you able to
access his skill-set, or more importantly, his ability to learn? I've been playing around
with home repair and woodworking for many years and I'm still learning new stuff. That's
one of the reasons I do it. I like the journey. Apparently, the OP does too since he took
it upon himself to cut the door in the first place.


Oh good, the first ****ing contest of the day, whoo-hoo.

Yes, I suspect he has vanished, you can speculate until the cows come
home, but as of now, he has not returned.

As for all your other points, yes, some people are capable of learning
new things and buying all kinds of tools, etc. However, if he had the
motivation required, it is my opinion he would have been participating
in the discussion beyond the initial post and sooner than this point
in time. It seems many people who post through the home owners hub,
never follow-up.

Also, the idea of cutting a slot and installing a spline seems
needlessly complicated when one can install dowels using a jig, a
pencil, a drill, a mallet and some glue. The foundational principles
of proper engineering include keeping solutions as simple as possible
while attaining the desired end result.

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.




Lastly, considering the door is 1.38 inches thick, with masonite outer
cladding and a particle board inner core, cutting a 3/4" slot in the
inner core would either eliminate the particle board or dramatically
weaken it. Not only does a long slot seem pointless, but it would
likely further damage the remaining structural integrity of that end
of the door. Removing as little material as possible seems to be the
most logical approach when trying repair this kind of a cluster-****.

Did I satisfy your need for ****ing contest? I have horses to feed and
a solar array to pressure wash.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,
I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 17:37:19 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,
I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

CORRECTION: "Without expending..."

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.





I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it
simple and cheap.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 11:10:38 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.


I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together,
securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use
pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that
would be as easy as just using the jig. Maybe you are right, but with
all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of
dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.





I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it
simple and cheap.

[trader_4]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 2:20:40 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 11:10:38 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.


I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together,
securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use
pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that
would be as easy as just using the jig. Maybe you are right, but with
all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of
dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.


You may be right too, IDK. I was thinking in terms of keeping the two
pieces aligned horizontally while he drills it, but you're right, he
also needs to pull it together top to bottom when gluing. Maybe
bar/wood clamps to hold it side to side, then your ratcheting straps
to bind it vertically.

As usual, here we are doing all the work, with no more participation
from the OP, which could narrow the discussion and options.

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off.

Didn't say or didn't say it accurately enough for you? Go back and read the OP.


As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,
I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 2:20:40 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 11:10:38 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.


I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together,
securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use
pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that
would be as easy as just using the jig.

There's no need for pipe clamps or ratcheting straps. It can all be done with a few bar clamps
and some scrap stock. I'm not saying the gluing the piece back is a good idea, but it's not that
hard to make a glue up jig.

Sandwich the door between 2 pieces of stock that span the joint to keep the cutoff flush
with the faces of the door. The stock should extend almost to the top of what will be the finished
door in order to ensure perfect alignment of the faces. Slip wax paper between the door and
the alignment pieces to prevent the squeeze out from contacting them. Clamp the alignment
pieces tightly to the door.

Cut a piece of stock that is as wide as the door plus the 2 alignment pieces. Apply glue and
slip the cutoff between the 2 alignment pieces. Lightly clamp the alignment pieces to the
cutoff, light enough to allow it to move downward. Lay the 3rd piece across the top of the
cutoff and clamp it to the *bottom* of the alignment pieces (below the joint).

Tighten the alignment/cutoff clamps.

Maybe you are right, but with
all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of
dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.





I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it
simple and cheap.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 12:43:59 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 2:20:40 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 11:10:38 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.


I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together,
securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use
pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that
would be as easy as just using the jig.

There's no need for pipe clamps or ratcheting straps. It can all be done with a few bar clamps
and some scrap stock. I'm not saying the gluing the piece back is a good idea, but it's not that
hard to make a glue up jig.

Sandwich the door between 2 pieces of stock that span the joint to keep the cutoff flush
with the faces of the door. The stock should extend almost to the top of what will be the finished
door in order to ensure perfect alignment of the faces. Slip wax paper between the door and
the alignment pieces to prevent the squeeze out from contacting them. Clamp the alignment
pieces tightly to the door.

Cut a piece of stock that is as wide as the door plus the 2 alignment pieces. Apply glue and
slip the cutoff between the 2 alignment pieces. Lightly clamp the alignment pieces to the
cutoff, light enough to allow it to move downward. Lay the 3rd piece across the top of the
cutoff and clamp it to the *bottom* of the alignment pieces (below the joint).

Tighten the alignment/cutoff clamps.


Sure, if one wants to make a career out of the project. Seems much
easier to use a dowel jig and cheap ratcheting strap tie-downs.

To each his own.



Maybe you are right, but with
all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of
dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.





I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it
simple and cheap.

[dadiOH[_7_]]

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 12:15:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.

17 hours since the first post and you assume he's vanished? Maybe he has
a job
that doesn't allow him to post all day.

Why do you doubt that he can do the work? If he doesn't have a doweling
jig, he can buy
one for for $30-$90 depending on how much he plans to use it in the
future. If he
doesn't have a router, he can buy one. It's an extremely useful tool. I
have 3. If he's
never cut a slot and/or installed a spline, does that mean he'll never be
able to?

Or, he could buy neither and fix it by cutting off some more then
gluing/screwing a piece of hardwood to it thereby returning it to its former
glory at virtually zero cost.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 18:01:20 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 12:15:03 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 05 Jul 2017 12:09:34 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

Hey, I simply suggested that he install dowels and use glue. It
doesn't really matter, it appears the OP has vanished and I doubt he
has the jig required to accurately install dowels, let alone cut a
3/4" slot and install a spline.

17 hours since the first post and you assume he's vanished? Maybe he has
a job
that doesn't allow him to post all day.

Why do you doubt that he can do the work? If he doesn't have a doweling
jig, he can buy
one for for $30-$90 depending on how much he plans to use it in the
future. If he
doesn't have a router, he can buy one. It's an extremely useful tool. I
have 3. If he's
never cut a slot and/or installed a spline, does that mean he'll never be
able to?

Or, he could buy neither and fix it by cutting off some more then
gluing/screwing a piece of hardwood to it thereby returning it to its former
glory at virtually zero cost.


What would he screw it to? The masonite or the particle board?

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 13:04:03 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Now, an adult might say "Whoops, missed that. Thanks for pointing it out."
Instead, you opted for turning it back on me. Go ahead, I can take it.
In fact, I'll even apologize if you found my words too harsh.

Apologize? For what? Being someone who does not employ diplomacy or
courtesy in his written communications? Don't be silly, this is
Usenet and you are who you are.

If you felt an apology were in order for the words you used, you would
have apologized and the entire matter would have been closed.

When people communicate the way you have, it is as if they are hanging
a sign around their necks saying: "I don't play well in the sandbox
with others." That is fine, but as with Mr. Trump, don't be surprised
when you reap what you sow.

[Ed60062]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 5:44:12 PM UTC-5, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...d-1136676-.htm

I would get a couple of 6 or 8 inch corner braces, bolt the rollers to the braces and screw the other leg of the braces to the side edges of the door. The edges should also have a hardwood insert.

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 6:59:08 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 13:04:03 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Now, an adult might say "Whoops, missed that. Thanks for pointing it out."
Instead, you opted for turning it back on me. Go ahead, I can take it.
In fact, I'll even apologize if you found my words too harsh.

Apologize? For what? Being someone who does not employ diplomacy or
courtesy in his written communications? Don't be silly, this is
Usenet and you are who you are


If you felt an apology were in order for the words you used, you would
have apologized and the entire matter would have been closed.


When people communicate the way you have, it is as if they are hanging
a sign around their necks saying: "I don't play well in the sandbox
with others." That is fine, but as with Mr. Trump, don't be surprised
when you reap what you sow.

All this from the guy who said:

"Oh good, the first ****ing contest of the day, whoo-hoo."

....snip...

"Did I satisfy your need for ****ing contest?"

Sandbox? It sounds like you play in caged octagon. As soon as anyone
questions your assumptions or points out an error, you go on the attack.

When I offered a clamping alternative for clamping something to a long
object, and you shot that down too, totally missing the point as to why
I brought up the method.

So much for playing nice.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 12:56:30 -0400, Tommy Silvah
wrote:

I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

That's cheating. We gotta buy hundreds of dollars worth of new power
tools. Don't you get it?

If he is OK with the screws pulling out as soon as the humidity gets
to that particle board, it will work.

[dadiOH[_7_]]

"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message
...

Or, he could buy neither and fix it by cutting off some more then
gluing/screwing a piece of hardwood to it thereby returning it to its
former
glory at virtually zero cost.


What would he screw it to? The masonite or the particle board?

What masonite? The screws would go into the particle board to hold the new
piece of hardwood while the glue dries..

[Gene Yuss[_2_]]

On 7/6/2017 7:14 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message
...

Or, he could buy neither and fix it by cutting off some more then
gluing/screwing a piece of hardwood to it thereby returning it to its
former
glory at virtually zero cost.

What would he screw it to? The masonite or the particle board?
What masonite? The screws would go into the particle board to hold the new
piece of hardwood while the glue dries..



By now I think the OP has figured out that she can just use some 2-1/2" long #8 screws to fasten the rollers to the top of the door.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 19:38:32 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 6:59:08 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 13:04:03 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Now, an adult might say "Whoops, missed that. Thanks for pointing it out."
Instead, you opted for turning it back on me. Go ahead, I can take it.
In fact, I'll even apologize if you found my words too harsh.

Apologize? For what? Being someone who does not employ diplomacy or
courtesy in his written communications? Don't be silly, this is
Usenet and you are who you are


If you felt an apology were in order for the words you used, you would
have apologized and the entire matter would have been closed.


When people communicate the way you have, it is as if they are hanging
a sign around their necks saying: "I don't play well in the sandbox
with others." That is fine, but as with Mr. Trump, don't be surprised
when you reap what you sow.

All this from the guy who said:

"Oh good, the first ****ing contest of the day, whoo-hoo."

...snip...

"Did I satisfy your need for ****ing contest?"

Sandbox? It sounds like you play in caged octagon. As soon as anyone
questions your assumptions or points out an error, you go on the attack.

When I offered a clamping alternative for clamping something to a long
object, and you shot that down too, totally missing the point as to why
I brought up the method.

So much for playing nice.



Derby, I am sure that in your mind you have been unjustly chastised.
The fact that you are attempting to play tit-for-tat, without
examining the tat component, suggests you are not prone to
introspection.

Before responding to you, through this silly-ass ****ing contest, I
re-read every word I wrote, several times. I accept fully
responsibility for everything I have written both serious and
facetious.

Let me suggest that you go back and not simply review what I have
written, but take a close look at what you have written, and how you
approached this discourse. Keep in mind, we are not either Vulcan's
or computers and ask yourself if you bear any contextual culpability
for what is rapidly becoming a very unproductive and tedious exchange.

If upon a modicum of introspection, you discover your own culpability,
then take the lesson forward and let's just drop this entire exchange.
The last word belongs to you as I have no desire to further singe your
feathers.