[Dave[_71_]]

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...d-1136676-.htm

[Stormin' Norman]

On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.

Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 6:55:30 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.

Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.

IDK if there is some trim that would hide the boo boo, if there is then that would work. Otherwise I don't see that he has anything to lose by trying his idea. I'd put epoxy under the brackets too.

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:23:25 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 6:55:30 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Ouch! That is an expensive mistake. If you saved the piece you cut
off, you could use a strong, resin type wood glue and try to glue it
back in place. For additional strength you could glue dowels and or
biscuits into both pieces before assembling.

Posting a few pictures of what you are dealing with would probably
help the group, help you.

IDK if there is some trim that would hide the boo boo, if there is then that would work. Otherwise I don't see that he has anything to lose by trying his idea. I'd put epoxy under the brackets too.

Construction adhesive would be a choice too.

[dpb]

On 07/04/2017 5:44 PM, Dave wrote:
....

... So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if
that will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Cut off that much more that the present cutoff gives correct overall
height. Glue that back to the top; using some biscuits or dowels for
some extra glue surface area wouldn't hurt.

Or, just rip the hardwood off the cutoff and glue it on where it was and
trim the bottom for the height.

--

[trader_4]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 6:44:12 PM UTC-4, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...d-1136676-.htm

[Retired[_2_]]

On 7/4/17 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door
on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the
top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I
clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place
if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108



Is there a hardwood strip on the "bottom" of the door ? If so, could
you just turn it "upside down" ?

OR instead of using wood screws, uses a bolt, washers & nut thru a
hole drilled thru the door

[[email protected]]

On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

[DerbyDad03]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

[Terry Coombs[_2_]]

On 7/5/2017 5:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108
Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.
A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

Better be a big router ... at least 1/2" collet , and if I were doing
this I'd probably hog most of it out with a circular saw and just finish
the slot with the router . At a minimum a couple of 2x4's clamped on to
give the saw and router bases some stability . The OP might be able to
clean the slot up to the outer veneer layers , clean up the wood strip
he cut off and glue it back in . I've done this with hollow core doors
with good results .

--

Snag

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 8:29:14 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 7/5/2017 5:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly'
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108
Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.
A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

Better be a big router ... at least 1/2" collet , and if I were doing
this I'd probably hog most of it out with a circular saw and just finish
the slot with the router . At a minimum a couple of 2x4's clamped on to
give the saw and router bases some stability . The OP might be able to
clean the slot up to the outer veneer layers , clean up the wood strip
he cut off and glue it back in . I've done this with hollow core doors
with good results .



Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

Multiple shallow passes with a 2" cut length straight bit will get the job done, assuming he
actually needs the full 2". There are 1.5" cut lengths also. I recently bought a 5/8" bit with
a 1.5" cut length to route out a 3/4" recess for a deck of cards in a cribbage board I made.
With the 1/2" template for the recess, I needed at least 1.25".

http://i.imgur.com/ouehBqf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vooVWFE.jpg

I would expand on your 2x4 support idea and build a jig with a straight edge for the router to
follow.

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 07:51:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.

I was assuming this guy did not have as big a shop as "Norm". ;-)

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 03:49:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

You just have trouble getting it very deep.
If the surface of the door is not important, you could use one of
those cylinder shaped nuts. That is what the furniture guys use in
that sawdust material.

[DerbyDad03]

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 8:57:48 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 03:49:16 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:

I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top off
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.

A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.

You just have trouble getting it very deep.
If the surface of the door is not important, you could use one of
those cylinder shaped nuts. That is what the furniture guys use in
that sawdust material.

How deep do you think it needs to be? He mentioned that he cut off "a couple
of inches" but he didn't say that all 2€œ were hardwood or how long the screws were.

Even if he needed the full "couple of inches" you can get straight bits with 2" cut lengths.

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-12-142-.../dp/B0000225VZ

Multiple shallow passes could easily get him the full 2". A simple jig with a straight edge
clamped to the door and he's good to go.

Of course, he could also use the tool shown at 3:00 of this video. ;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiPyLtDpHto

[Dean Hoffman[_12_]]

On 7/4/17 5:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on
the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm

Cut a bunch due to aioe quotation limits.
What about using hinges that attach to the side of the door?
Something like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Double-Sliding-Barn-Door-Hangers/dp/B01A7GQPOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499212672&sr=8-1&keywords=hanging+barn+door+hinge
or http://alturl.com/st8x9

[Reverend Harry Hardwick]

On 7/4/2017 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108


I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

[Tommy Silvah[_4_]]

On 07/04/2017 09:17 PM, Reverend Harry Hardwick wrote:
On 7/4/2017 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I
cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that
the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door
on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the
top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I
clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place
if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108



I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

That's cheating. We gotta buy hundreds of dollars worth of new power
tools. Don't you get it?

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 12:56:30 -0400, Tommy Silvah
wrote:

I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

That's cheating. We gotta buy hundreds of dollars worth of new power
tools. Don't you get it?

If he is OK with the screws pulling out as soon as the humidity gets
to that particle board, it will work.

[=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?=]

posted for all of us...



On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 12:56:30 -0400, Tommy Silvah
wrote:

I'd pilot drill and use #10 x 3-1/2" deck screws and call it a day.

That's cheating. We gotta buy hundreds of dollars worth of new power
tools. Don't you get it?

If he is OK with the screws pulling out as soon as the humidity gets
to that particle board, it will work.

Ya gotta remember it's termite spit he's dealing with...

--
Tekkie

[Wade Garrett]

On 7/4/17 6:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on
the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if
that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108


Turn it upside down?

--
I love a good meal. That's why I don't cook.

[Bob F]

On 7/4/2017 3:44 PM, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too
tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the
roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board
interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on
the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm
wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if
that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108



Turn the door over?

[Ed60062]

On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 5:44:12 PM UTC-5, Dave wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?

Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108

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I would get a couple of 6 or 8 inch corner braces, bolt the rollers to the braces and screw the other leg of the braces to the side edges of the door. The edges should also have a hardwood insert.

[Thomas]

Exchange it.