On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 8:29:14 AM UTC-4, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 7/5/2017 5:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 at 7:34:19 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 04 Jul 2017 22:44:07 GMT, Dave
m wrote:
I bought a sliding barn door that was the right width but a bit too tall. The
bottom has a groove for a guide, so in order to shorten the door, I cut a
couple inches off the top.
The trouble is, I cut off the hardwood at the top of the door that the roller
assembly screws into and now all that's left is the particle board interior.
The particle board isn't strong enough to hold the weight of the door on the
rollers. So... I need to figure out how to attach the rollers to the top of
the door, with only particle board to screw into. (In retrospect, I clearly'
should have cut extra height off the bottom - too late now.) I'm wondering if
I drill holes, fill them with epoxy, and then set the screws in place if that
will be strong enough. Thoughts?
Here is the door for reference:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-...7590/206193108
Saw a slot in the top of the door 3/4" wide and as deep as your blade
will go. Glue a piece of hardwood in there, screw into that.
Perfect would be a dado blade in a table saw but you could do it with
a circular caw and the fence. Set it to cut the outsides of the 3/4"
slot first then eat out the middle. Start smaller than 3/4 and sneak
up on it. Clamp 3-4" of material to the side of the door, even with
the top to get a stable base to work from. Laid flat and clamped on a
table or the bench, hang the fence from the top surface with your
clamped "base" on the bottom using the wide side of the saw plate
against it.
Just be sure everything is stable before you start the saw.
A router would probably be the better choice for cutting the dado.
Better be a big router ... at least 1/2" collet , and if I were doing
this I'd probably hog most of it out with a circular saw and just finish
the slot with the router . At a minimum a couple of 2x4's clamped on to
give the saw and router bases some stability . The OP might be able to
clean the slot up to the outer veneer layers , clean up the wood strip
he cut off and glue it back in . I've done this with hollow core doors
with good results .
Any decent router with a 1/2" collet could handle this.
Multiple shallow passes with a 2" cut length straight bit will get the job done, assuming he
actually needs the full 2". There are 1.5" cut lengths also. I recently bought a 5/8" bit with
a 1.5" cut length to route out a 3/4" recess for a deck of cards in a cribbage board I made.
With the 1/2" template for the recess, I needed at least 1.25".
http://i.imgur.com/ouehBqf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vooVWFE.jpg
I would expand on your 2x4 support idea and build a jig with a straight edge for the router to
follow.