On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 2:20:40 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 11:10:38 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Wednesday, July 5, 2017 at 1:37:34 PM UTC-4, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Wed, 5 Jul 2017 10:25:23 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

I don't even see the need for a jig. He can just clamp the two pieces
back together, drill holes in from the top, put it together with glue
or construction adhesive and dowels. But it also looked to me like
the roller part on top had wide brackets and his idea of drilling holes,
using glue, adhesive, to help anchor the screws plus putting in under
the metal brackets, would bond it too, without attaching the original
piece that he cut off.

Maybe, but he didn't say how much he cut off. As I think he only
really has one shot at making the repair, and knowing how difficult it
can be to accurately freehand drill, multiple, relatively deep holes,

Not sure what the need for accuracy is. If he clamps part A to part B
and drills a 3" deep hole, even if the hole is at an angle, it
doesn't matter, the dowel will still go in, no? Plus you have construction
adhesive/glue between the two also. And I'd make sure the bracket
screws are long enough to go through both parts too.


I am just not sure how he would clamp the two pieces together,
securely, at the end of a 7 foot door. Yeah, I guess he could use
pipe clamps or ratcheting straps, but somehow, I don't think that
would be as easy as just using the jig.

There's no need for pipe clamps or ratcheting straps. It can all be done with a few bar clamps
and some scrap stock. I'm not saying the gluing the piece back is a good idea, but it's not that
hard to make a glue up jig.

Sandwich the door between 2 pieces of stock that span the joint to keep the cutoff flush
with the faces of the door. The stock should extend almost to the top of what will be the finished
door in order to ensure perfect alignment of the faces. Slip wax paper between the door and
the alignment pieces to prevent the squeeze out from contacting them. Clamp the alignment
pieces tightly to the door.

Cut a piece of stock that is as wide as the door plus the 2 alignment pieces. Apply glue and
slip the cutoff between the 2 alignment pieces. Lightly clamp the alignment pieces to the
cutoff, light enough to allow it to move downward. Lay the 3rd piece across the top of the
cutoff and clamp it to the *bottom* of the alignment pieces (below the joint).

Tighten the alignment/cutoff clamps.

Maybe you are right, but with
all of the furniture I have built over the years, freehand drilling of
dowel holes never produced flush joined edges.





I would urge him to use a self-centering doweling jig, like this one
from HF. $15 is a relatively small investment to insure he doesn't
create another CF and run the drill through the outer surface of the
masonite.

https://www.harborfreight.com/self-c...jig-41345.html

As it is, I think he only has a 50/50 chance of effecting a functional
repair with expending excessive time and resources. And, let's face
it, the door sounds like a piece of crap anyway.

I'd think he has a higher chance than that. But agree I'd keep it
simple and cheap.