Hey all,
I have a question about my bathroom faucet. This is a relatively new
sink/faucet and I had my contractor install it about 2 months ago. He
used some plumber's putty between the bottom of the faucet (which is a
clear rubber) and the top of the sink (which is porcelain). Now I
don't know if plumber's putty is supposed to act as an adhesive or
not, but I noticed that the faucet isn't really *attached* to the sink
at all anymore and now when you turn on the faucet it rocks back and
forth and even lifts up about an inch or so off the sink. The
faucet's pipes obviously are attached to the plumbing under the sink.
Do I just add some more plumber's putty? From what I've read that
stuff isn't really used as an adhesive.
I've been reading up on it a little bit and some people suggested
"mounting" the faucet with silicon.....but I was wondering if/how well
that would adhere the rubber faucet base to the porcelain sink. Or is
caulk the way to go?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa

"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hey all,
I have a question about my bathroom faucet. This is a relatively new
sink/faucet and I had my contractor install it about 2 months ago. He
used some plumber's putty between the bottom of the faucet (which is a
clear rubber) and the top of the sink (which is porcelain). Now I
don't know if plumber's putty is supposed to act as an adhesive or
not, but I noticed that the faucet isn't really *attached* to the sink
at all anymore and now when you turn on the faucet it rocks back and
forth and even lifts up about an inch or so off the sink. The
faucet's pipes obviously are attached to the plumbing under the sink.
Do I just add some more plumber's putty? From what I've read that
stuff isn't really used as an adhesive.
I've been reading up on it a little bit and some people suggested
"mounting" the faucet with silicon.....but I was wondering if/how well
that would adhere the rubber faucet base to the porcelain sink. Or is
caulk the way to go?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa

you call them back and tell them to come back and mount the faucet the
correct way. if i were you i'd be talking to the owner of the contractor
company for his worker's incompetence. you don't glue it down with either
putty or silicone. they come with a rubber gasket to provide the seal to the
sink. there should have been a nut or 3 that screws under the faucet to the
underneath of the sink to mount the faucet correctly.

On Sep 10, 1:50 pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in oglegroups.com...





Hey all,
I have a question about my bathroom faucet. This is a relatively new
sink/faucet and I had my contractor install it about 2 months ago. He
used some plumber's putty between the bottom of the faucet (which is a
clear rubber) and the top of the sink (which is porcelain). Now I
don't know if plumber's putty is supposed to act as an adhesive or
not, but I noticed that the faucet isn't really *attached* to the sink
at all anymore and now when you turn on the faucet it rocks back and
forth and even lifts up about an inch or so off the sink. The
faucet's pipes obviously are attached to the plumbing under the sink.
Do I just add some more plumber's putty? From what I've read that
stuff isn't really used as an adhesive.
I've been reading up on it a little bit and some people suggested
"mounting" the faucet with silicon.....but I was wondering if/how well
that would adhere the rubber faucet base to the porcelain sink. Or is
caulk the way to go?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa

you call them back and tell them to come back and mount the faucet the
correct way. if i were you i'd be talking to the owner of the contractor
company for his worker's incompetence. you don't glue it down with either
putty or silicone. they come with a rubber gasket to provide the seal to the
sink. there should have been a nut or 3 that screws under the faucet to the
underneath of the sink to mount the faucet correctly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Charlie,
Thanks for your quick reply. There is in fact a rubber gasket (that's
the clear rubber part I mentined) that contacts the sink. Getting my
contractor to come back really isn't an option (there were a few
things that he left undone that I ended up having to do myself) so I
wanted to fix this myself.
As far as nuts that secure the faucet to the underside of the sink, I
wasn' t left with any spare parts so I guess they didn't exist or he
disposed of them without attaching him.
I didn't notice this thing moving until the plumber's putty wore
off.
Is there anything I can glue the rubber gasket to the sink with?
Lisa

"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 10, 1:50 pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in
oglegroups.com...





Hey all,
I have a question about my bathroom faucet. This is a relatively new
sink/faucet and I had my contractor install it about 2 months ago. He
used some plumber's putty between the bottom of the faucet (which is a
clear rubber) and the top of the sink (which is porcelain). Now I
don't know if plumber's putty is supposed to act as an adhesive or
not, but I noticed that the faucet isn't really *attached* to the sink
at all anymore and now when you turn on the faucet it rocks back and
forth and even lifts up about an inch or so off the sink. The
faucet's pipes obviously are attached to the plumbing under the sink.
Do I just add some more plumber's putty? From what I've read that
stuff isn't really used as an adhesive.
I've been reading up on it a little bit and some people suggested
"mounting" the faucet with silicon.....but I was wondering if/how well
that would adhere the rubber faucet base to the porcelain sink. Or is
caulk the way to go?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa

you call them back and tell them to come back and mount the faucet the
correct way. if i were you i'd be talking to the owner of the contractor
company for his worker's incompetence. you don't glue it down with either
putty or silicone. they come with a rubber gasket to provide the seal to
the
sink. there should have been a nut or 3 that screws under the faucet to
the
underneath of the sink to mount the faucet correctly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Charlie,
Thanks for your quick reply. There is in fact a rubber gasket (that's
the clear rubber part I mentined) that contacts the sink. Getting my
contractor to come back really isn't an option (there were a few
things that he left undone that I ended up having to do myself) so I
wanted to fix this myself.
As far as nuts that secure the faucet to the underside of the sink, I
wasn' t left with any spare parts so I guess they didn't exist or he
disposed of them without attaching him.
I didn't notice this thing moving until the plumber's putty wore
off.
Is there anything I can glue the rubber gasket to the sink with?
Lisa


The simple answer to your quest is "No". The faucet has to be fasten on the
bottom using a nut that screws on the threads of the part of the faucet that
extends below the sink top. Perhaps the nut is on, but not tightened. It's
possible that it was hand tightened only (it should be wrench tightened) and
just got loose which allowed the faucet to move (it probably wasn't the
plumbers' putty that was holding it). Check with you hand to see if its
there and if you can hand tighten it. Then go out and get a basic wrench
(under $5) make it more permanent. Just a little bit beyond hand tightening
should do it.

PS: Other will instruct you how you should deal with your delinquent
contractor.
--
Peace,
BobJ

Marilyn & Bob wrote:



The simple answer to your quest is "No". The faucet has to be fasten on the
bottom using a nut that screws on the threads of the part of the faucet that
extends below the sink top. Perhaps the nut is on, but not tightened. It's
possible that it was hand tightened only (it should be wrench tightened) and
just got loose which allowed the faucet to move (it probably wasn't the
plumbers' putty that was holding it). Check with you hand to see if its
there and if you can hand tighten it. Then go out and get a basic wrench
That is "basin", not "basic" wrench. This funny wrench that can reach into
difficult places like this just for tightening this nut. Usually sold in
the plumbing dept. of stores.
(under $5) make it more permanent. Just a little bit beyond hand tightening
should do it.

Overall, M & B is/are correct. The faucet is held on by a nut (maybe with
washers), not with any sort of glue.

Check out this Replacing a Bathroom Faucet Step-by-step at This Old
House Online:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-...615503,00.html

Even if you bring on a contractor, it's still good to know from a
reputable source what is expected to be done in a repair like this.
You can also take a look at the tools ans shopping lists to see what
your contractor should be using.

Hope this helps,
Tabitha

"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 10, 1:50 pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in
oglegroups.com...





Hey all,
I have a question about my bathroom faucet. This is a relatively new
sink/faucet and I had my contractor install it about 2 months ago. He
used some plumber's putty between the bottom of the faucet (which is a
clear rubber) and the top of the sink (which is porcelain). Now I
don't know if plumber's putty is supposed to act as an adhesive or
not, but I noticed that the faucet isn't really *attached* to the sink
at all anymore and now when you turn on the faucet it rocks back and
forth and even lifts up about an inch or so off the sink. The
faucet's pipes obviously are attached to the plumbing under the sink.
Do I just add some more plumber's putty? From what I've read that
stuff isn't really used as an adhesive.
I've been reading up on it a little bit and some people suggested
"mounting" the faucet with silicon.....but I was wondering if/how well
that would adhere the rubber faucet base to the porcelain sink. Or is
caulk the way to go?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa

you call them back and tell them to come back and mount the faucet the
correct way. if i were you i'd be talking to the owner of the contractor
company for his worker's incompetence. you don't glue it down with either
putty or silicone. they come with a rubber gasket to provide the seal to
the
sink. there should have been a nut or 3 that screws under the faucet to
the
underneath of the sink to mount the faucet correctly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Charlie,
Thanks for your quick reply. There is in fact a rubber gasket (that's
the clear rubber part I mentined) that contacts the sink. Getting my
contractor to come back really isn't an option (there were a few
things that he left undone that I ended up having to do myself) so I
wanted to fix this myself.
As far as nuts that secure the faucet to the underside of the sink, I
wasn' t left with any spare parts so I guess they didn't exist or he
disposed of them without attaching him.
I didn't notice this thing moving until the plumber's putty wore
off.
Is there anything I can glue the rubber gasket to the sink with?
Lisa

no. you don't use glue. you use the nuts on the bottom. you'll need a basin
wrench to tighten them (home depot plumbing dept). if there aren't any there
to tighten, you can call the maker of the faucet and they'll probably mail
you some for free if you explain what was done.

On Sep 11, 11:26 am, "charlie"
wrote:
"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in ooglegroups.com...





On Sep 10, 1:50 pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"Lisa Ashley Rafter" wrote in
oglegroups.com...

Hey all,
I have a question about my bathroom faucet. This is a relatively new
sink/faucet and I had my contractor install it about 2 months ago. He
used some plumber's putty between the bottom of the faucet (which is a
clear rubber) and the top of the sink (which is porcelain). Now I
don't know if plumber's putty is supposed to act as an adhesive or
not, but I noticed that the faucet isn't really *attached* to the sink
at all anymore and now when you turn on the faucet it rocks back and
forth and even lifts up about an inch or so off the sink. The
faucet's pipes obviously are attached to the plumbing under the sink.
Do I just add some more plumber's putty? From what I've read that
stuff isn't really used as an adhesive.
I've been reading up on it a little bit and some people suggested
"mounting" the faucet with silicon.....but I was wondering if/how well
that would adhere the rubber faucet base to the porcelain sink. Or is
caulk the way to go?
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Lisa

you call them back and tell them to come back and mount the faucet the
correct way. if i were you i'd be talking to the owner of the contractor
company for his worker's incompetence. you don't glue it down with either
putty or silicone. they come with a rubber gasket to provide the seal to
the
sink. there should have been a nut or 3 that screws under the faucet to
the
underneath of the sink to mount the faucet correctly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Charlie,
Thanks for your quick reply. There is in fact a rubber gasket (that's
the clear rubber part I mentined) that contacts the sink. Getting my
contractor to come back really isn't an option (there were a few
things that he left undone that I ended up having to do myself) so I
wanted to fix this myself.
As far as nuts that secure the faucet to the underside of the sink, I
wasn' t left with any spare parts so I guess they didn't exist or he
disposed of them without attaching him.
I didn't notice this thing moving until the plumber's putty wore
off.
Is there anything I can glue the rubber gasket to the sink with?
Lisa

no. you don't use glue. you use the nuts on the bottom. you'll need a basin
wrench to tighten them (home depot plumbing dept). if there aren't any there
to tighten, you can call the maker of the faucet and they'll probably mail
you some for free if you explain what was done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You don't use putty,silcon,glue the nuts are all you need the days of
seals here are over unless the sink top is deformed and won't seall
properly

replying to tabitha.sukhai, Iggy wrote:
I know I'm quite late here, but from my personal experience...start over. If
the drain's a Pop-up with a pull-rod up top and a pivot-rod under the sink,
then the drain flange in the sink screws down (typically) into the tailpiece
beneath and is a separate piece. Stainless Steel Pop-up drain flanges are hard
to come by (tailpieces impossible), but by any means get one and never have to
play with the drain flange again.

In any case though, get rid of any Rubber Washer (under the flange "in" the
sink) and Plumber's Putty. Only use 100% silicone (not silicon, that's hard
brittle computer wafer stuff) to yes glue-down the drain flange. Both Rubber
Washers and Plumber's Putty dry-out, crack and leak in as little as 10-years,
Silicone doesn't. Silicone dries-out, but doesn't lose its seal, grip nor turn
back to a powder. Again, anything you can get in stainless steel is well worth
it, even if you need to basically make your own drain. I buy separate
stainless steel flanges, locking nuts and pivot-rods...suppliers always change
whenever I run out.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 10:14:06 PM UTC-5, Iggy wrote:
replying to tabitha.sukhai, Iggy wrote:
I know I'm quite late here, but from my personal experience...start over. If
the drain's a Pop-up with a pull-rod up top and a pivot-rod under the sink,
then the drain flange in the sink screws down (typically) into the tailpiece
beneath and is a separate piece. Stainless Steel Pop-up drain flanges are hard
to come by (tailpieces impossible), but by any means get one and never have to
play with the drain flange again.

In any case though, get rid of any Rubber Washer (under the flange "in" the
sink) and Plumber's Putty. Only use 100% silicone (not silicon, that's hard
brittle computer wafer stuff) to yes glue-down the drain flange. Both Rubber
Washers and Plumber's Putty dry-out, crack and leak in as little as 10-years,
Silicone doesn't. Silicone dries-out, but doesn't lose its seal, grip nor turn
back to a powder. Again, anything you can get in stainless steel is well worth
it, even if you need to basically make your own drain. I buy separate
stainless steel flanges, locking nuts and pivot-rods...suppliers always change
whenever I run out.
--


You're too late. 10 years ago Tabitha was abducted by giant alien gerbils from outerspace. The Air Force tried to intercept the flying saucer but it was just too fast for them. Tabitha was never returned by her furry alien kidnappers. It was a real tragedy for her family. (~_~

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 11:14:06 PM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to tabitha.sukhai, Iggy wrote:
I know I'm quite late here,

Only about 10 years. She's ready for a new faucet by now.



but from my personal experience...start over. If
the drain's a Pop-up with a pull-rod up top and a pivot-rod under the sink,

If you read the post, she's asking about the faucet mounted to the sink,
not about the drain. And there should be no putty, nothing under it but
the rubber type gasket that she describes. It's probably moving because
it has putty put in there and it;s not tightened down enough.



then the drain flange in the sink screws down (typically) into the tailpiece
beneath and is a separate piece. Stainless Steel Pop-up drain flanges are hard
to come by (tailpieces impossible), but by any means get one and never have to
play with the drain flange again.

In any case though, get rid of any Rubber Washer (under the flange "in" the
sink) and Plumber's Putty. Only use 100% silicone (not silicon, that's hard
brittle computer wafer stuff) to yes glue-down the drain flange.

Another mistake. Plumber's putty is exactly what you want there. It's
thick, pliable and fills the gap, giving the drain piece something to
bed down into. It also comes out easily as opposed to silicone.
BTW, you see silicon in caulking tubes instead of silicone much?



Both Rubber
Washers and Plumber's Putty dry-out, crack and leak in as little as 10-years,

You see ones with washers much? I have drains that are 30 years old,
still perfect, no leaks, with plumber's putty.



Silicone doesn't. Silicone dries-out,

Wrong again. It doesn't dry out, it cures.


but doesn't lose its seal, grip nor turn
back to a powder. Again, anything you can get in stainless steel is well worth
it, even if you need to basically make your own drain.

Wow, you do that much?



I buy separate
stainless steel flanges, locking nuts and pivot-rods...suppliers always change
whenever I run out.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

Nice job giving the wrong answer to a question she didn't ask from
10 years ago.

On Fri, 28 Jul 2017 08:00:07 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

Another mistake. Plumber's putty is exactly what you want there. It's
thick, pliable and fills the gap, giving the drain piece something to
bed down into. It also comes out easily as opposed to silicone.
BTW, you see silicon in caulking tubes instead of silicone much?

One lesson I learned the hard way, plumber's putty should never be
used when it will be in contact with plastic. For example, plastic
drain tail piece are becoming quite common and, the traditional putty
will interact with and degrade that material.

replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Ready for a new faucet in a nothing 10-years? Disposable Society Idiots that
accepts crap at every turn as "Value", I guess...like Plumber's Putty
(guaranteed future hack-work).

Actually, she's directing and instructing about faucet installation, by a
monkey-see-monkey-do "Master" Plumber that frequently does some quite
laughable plumbing.

Plumber's Putty is what everyone wants? Sure, if you like replacing rotted out
drains, scrubbing off mold and mildew or just enjoy replacing the easily
avoidable water damaged cabinet...YAY, Plumber's Putty! (how many decades does
it take to stop banging your head against the wall?)

I do see rubber washers quite often. Absolutely, I've seen plenty of Putty
Jobs that are even 50-years old, no drips but definitely leaking past the
"cured" cracked, loose and powdery Putty and rotting out the drain. Just
waiting for the underside rubber washer to finally let loose. I did my drains
with Silicone 30-years ago and dropped the locknut and washer to find
nothing's loose, stained, rusted or changed from day one. You, can't do that
and don't have that.

Yep, I do quite a bit of the hack-work replacements and provide a My Lifetime
As A Handyman Warranty for my replacements. No-one's made a claim yet and I've
been called back for more projects as much as 20-years later to still find no
complaint nor change from when it went it. My stainless Drain Flanges, Basket
Strainers, Pivot Rods and Locknuts still all look and act brand new.

Jack of many trades and True Master of most of them. You don't want to know
about my drain assemblies, but my clients love, carry on and swear by
them...where I get most of my referrals actually.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

On 7/30/2017 2:44 PM, Iggy wrote:

Jack of many trades and True Master of most of them. You don't want to know
about my drain assemblies, but my clients love, carry on and swear by
them...where I get most of my referrals actually.


Actually, we do want to know. IMO, any drain that does not clog and
does not leak is a good one. Is there more?

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 2:44:08 PM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Ready for a new faucet in a nothing 10-years? Disposable Society Idiots that
accepts crap at every turn as "Value", I guess...like Plumber's Putty
(guaranteed future hack-work).

Actually, she's directing and instructing about faucet installation, by a
monkey-see-monkey-do "Master" Plumber that frequently does some quite
laughable plumbing.

Plumber's Putty is what everyone wants? Sure, if you like replacing rotted out
drains, scrubbing off mold and mildew or just enjoy replacing the easily
avoidable water damaged cabinet...YAY, Plumber's Putty! (how many decades does
it take to stop banging your head against the wall?)

I do see rubber washers quite often. Absolutely, I've seen plenty of Putty
Jobs that are even 50-years old, no drips but definitely leaking past the
"cured" cracked, loose and powdery Putty and rotting out the drain. Just
waiting for the underside rubber washer to finally let loose.

Totally irrelevant, if that's going to leak, it's going to leak and
has nothing to do with using plumber's putty.

I did my drains
with Silicone 30-years ago and dropped the locknut and washer to find
nothing's loose, stained, rusted or changed from day one. You, can't do that
and don't have that.

Yep, I do quite a bit of the hack-work replacements and provide a My Lifetime
As A Handyman Warranty for my replacements. No-one's made a claim yet and I've
been called back for more projects as much as 20-years later to still find no
complaint nor change from when it went it. My stainless Drain Flanges, Basket
Strainers, Pivot Rods and Locknuts still all look and act brand new.

Jack of many trades and True Master of most of them. You don't want to know
about my drain assemblies, but my clients love, carry on and swear by
them...where I get most of my referrals actually.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

Well, you must use crappy plumber's putty. I've used it lots of
drains over decades, never had a problem, never had a leak, with
any of them. And it has the right consistency to bed down for
a drain and it's not as messy as silicone. But then, the question
asked was about mounting a faucet, which has nothing to do with drains
or plumber's putty.

replying to Ed Pawlowski, Iggy wrote:
Well, I tested and went to full glue-up PVC with elbows off the sinks to the
back wall and ran the p-trap parallel instead of perpendicular to the wall.
You now, finally, see Ikea and a few p-trap manufacturers doing this in very
crappy versions. But, at least, 7/8's of the cabinet remains wide open and
I've made removable drawer units for a number of kitchen and bath sink
cabinets...the cabinet is emptied in seconds by just lifting out 1 or 2 drawer
units.

And, guess what I put on each end of the assembly, yes right on the drain's
shank and right up to the wall's nipple or elbow. Unions! Yep unions, can't be
knocked loose nor off and only need to be hand snug to stay bone dry. But
still, every plumber I've run across outright rejects and completely ignores
them. Clients have and can easily drop the assembly to retrieve something and
pop it back together flawlessly in just a minute...that's when they call to
have their other sinks re-done correctly.

If, a plumber comes to snake the drain deeper in the system, they only need to
bring their snake. I even had a few clients fire plumbers on the spot who
whipped out power saws to hack up the assembly and wouldn't relent nor even
try to listen or figure out what they were looking at. 2 times I had plumbers
calling me gushing with how foolproof and simple the assembly was to work with
and that they'd be trying it out.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Yep, you're right and any plumber will back your choice in a heartbeat. I
understand, I'm just saying there's something that's much better in every way.
Beyond that, I'm currently even testing out Threaded Stainless Steel and Lead
Washers for true eternity. That setup is amazing and not nearly as bad an
extra expense as I first thought...twice that of PVC (done the right way) and
only 25% more than a full brass crap setup. This'll be for my own personal
home experiment and clients with long time family homes and estates.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 9:44:07 PM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to Ed Pawlowski, Iggy wrote:
Well, I tested and went to full glue-up PVC with elbows off the sinks to the
back wall and ran the p-trap parallel instead of perpendicular to the wall.
You now, finally, see Ikea and a few p-trap manufacturers doing this in very
crappy versions. But, at least, 7/8's of the cabinet remains wide open and
I've made removable drawer units for a number of kitchen and bath sink
cabinets...the cabinet is emptied in seconds by just lifting out 1 or 2 drawer
units.

And, guess what I put on each end of the assembly, yes right on the drain's
shank and right up to the wall's nipple or elbow. Unions! Yep unions, can't be
knocked loose nor off and only need to be hand snug to stay bone dry. But
still, every plumber I've run across outright rejects and completely ignores
them. Clients have and can easily drop the assembly to retrieve something and
pop it back together flawlessly in just a minute...that's when they call to
have their other sinks re-done correctly.

A standard P trap also has two nuts that can be just as easily loosened
as two union nuts. Also, there are P traps that have drain plugs in the
bottom, so if removal of objects is an issue, they are available.
I'm not seeing the big advantage for glued up P traps and unions.




If, a plumber comes to snake the drain deeper in the system, they only need to
bring their snake.

Yes, I'm sure that's an advantage. The plumber can unload his truck of
all his normal tools and leave them in the driveway at home. Or I guess
he could just take the snake and hop in the family car.



I even had a few clients fire plumbers on the spot who
whipped out power saws to hack up the assembly and wouldn't relent nor even
try to listen or figure out what they were looking at. 2 times I had plumbers
calling me gushing with how foolproof and simple the assembly was to work with
and that they'd be trying it out.


Given the low cost of PVC pipe and fittings and the high cost of labor,
those plumbers may have been right and saved the customer money.
Why examine and figure out 6 different ways of saving $15 worth of stuff,
ways that probably add more labor, when the clock is running at $100 an hour?

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 10:44:05 PM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Yep, you're right and any plumber will back your choice in a heartbeat. I
understand, I'm just saying there's something that's much better in every way.
Beyond that, I'm currently even testing out Threaded Stainless Steel and Lead
Washers for true eternity. That setup is amazing and not nearly as bad an
extra expense as I first thought...twice that of PVC (done the right way) and
only 25% more than a full brass crap setup. This'll be for my own personal
home experiment and clients with long time family homes and estates.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

Funny, my house is 33 years old 6 sinks, all use normal P trap plumbing,
not one has had a problem. The only one I've had to work on was the
kitchen sink and that was because we changed the sink to a deep chef
type one. They also all use plumber's putty for the drains. Maybe
you just have half assed plumbers in your area.

replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Does it make *any* sense to have loose joints or even a plug in the *only*
area that always holds water? No! And, therefore exactly why that area almost
always rots-out first and even solely. If you don't like it, then don't do it.
But, /your way/ is a proven failure and headache in most every building, mine
is a proven Godsend.

Yeah, that's what I said and meant...that the plumber should just ride around
with his Drain Auger in his bicycle's front basket. Dip****!

Sorry but, my goal is to save people from continued crap work and to eliminate
worthless product industries. Stainless Steel is unbeaten and while Plastic
starts out great, it's plastic and the only guarantee of *any and all*
plastics is that they dry-out crack and fail irreparably. Hopefully, I can end
plastic's use wherever cost is minimal and avoid future damage from wrong and
flawed plumbing.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Fantastic. I've seen it plenty of times, even with 50-year old stuff. Traps
with bubbled and flaked-off chrome from the inside rot and sink drains and
baskets with a light film of what looks like dirt. No problems and no leaks,
but not far from both and much worse. My stuff and especially my future stuff
is good for a solid century or very much more without anyone ever touching a
single thing.

I get it though, you're about tried and truly flawed to justify a career. I'm
about improvement and keeping buildings as new as possible and people's lives
as free as they're willing to moronically accept. I know tons of morons that
replace their or an entire kitchen or bath, just because it's 20-years or more
old. Don't worry, there's a sea of stupid that will continue to embrace your
work.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
- Yes they do and they're what rots-out first and takes the rest of the
assembly with it. Thus, why there shouldn't be loose joints nor plugs in the
trap or where water always sits. My way, you get the same or better
convenience without the pre-mature failure. Every piece of the entire plumbing
system lasting the same amount of time is the goal.

- Uh-huh, right. Really, that's what I said and meant...right? Plumbers could
just ride around with their Drain Augers in their front bicycle baskets. Stop
eating the putty.

- Again, how is it acceptable to re-pipe and/or re-drain a sink when the
entire rest of the building's system behind the walls needs nothing? It's a
common, regular and constant problem that needed addressing. And, what if the
reverse could be true? I think it would be great to not have my property
damaged nor my life disrupted and to be able to re-use my drain assemblies
endlessly with full confidence.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

On Monday, July 31, 2017 at 1:44:06 PM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Does it make *any* sense to have loose joints or even a plug in the *only*
area that always holds water? No! And, therefore exactly why that area almost
always rots-out first and even solely. If you don't like it, then don't do it.
But, /your way/ is a proven failure and headache in most every building, mine
is a proven Godsend.

Yeah, that's what I said and meant...that the plumber should just ride around
with his Drain Auger in his bicycle's front basket. Dip****!

This is what you posted:

"If, a plumber comes to snake the drain deeper in the system, they only need to
bring their snake."


So, you might want to rethink who the dip**** is. Because for what you
said to work, the plumber would have to know what's there before
they leave. And then unload the truck in their yard. And then hope
that they didn't need any other tools.




Sorry but, my goal is to save people from continued crap work and to eliminate
worthless product industries.

So, how many worthless product industries have you eliminated so far?



Stainless Steel is unbeaten and while Plastic
starts out great, it's plastic and the only guarantee of *any and all*
plastics is that they dry-out crack and fail irreparably. Hopefully, I can end
plastic's use wherever cost is minimal and avoid future damage from wrong and
flawed plumbing.


Keeps spinning and diverting all you want. The question was about
mounting a sink faucet. You started in about drains, now you're
starting in about plastic drains, which again no one brought up
or recommended. Whatever floats your boat over there at homemoanershub.

On Monday, July 31, 2017 at 1:44:07 PM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
Fantastic. I've seen it plenty of times, even with 50-year old stuff. Traps
with bubbled and flaked-off chrome from the inside rot and sink drains and
baskets with a light film of what looks like dirt. No problems and no leaks,
but not far from both and much worse. My stuff and especially my future stuff
is good for a solid century or very much more without anyone ever touching a
single thing.

I get it though, you're about tried and truly flawed to justify a career. I'm
about improvement and keeping buildings as new as possible and people's lives
as free as they're willing to moronically accept. I know tons of morons

I'm sure you do.




that
replace their or an entire kitchen or bath, just because it's 20-years or more
old. Don't worry, there's a sea of stupid that will continue to embrace your
work.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

Why is it stupid to replace a kitchen or bath that's 20 years old if you
want something different, better, and can afford it? Is everyone supposed
to live like you?

replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
- I'm sorry, I didn't realize how far gone you were. Here's how it works, in
the real and normal world:

The plumber arrives with a stocked truck ready to handle most anything. They
get out of the truck and ring the doorbell to greet the owner and go assess
the problem, to determine what they'll need to address the problem. Then and
only then, do they go back to the truck to get only what they need.

- Unfortunately, I haven't and won't eliminate any industries, since I'm a
little nobody. But, I won't use their stuff and can remove them from the
equation. I'm working on removing Plastics, Brass, Galvanized Steel, Asphalt
everything, Furnaces and Boilers, Non-structural Steel Studs, Most
Insulations, Drywall and especially its horizontal installation of idiocy,
NASA, Government, Money, and at least a few more.

- Sorry, I thought we were beyond that and now discussing important
things...since neither Lisa nor Tabitha were part of the conversation at any
point. But sure, try and flip it on me. I think you and I are done...before we
started. Have a nice day.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ne-248903-.htm

On Tuesday, August 1, 2017 at 1:14:07 AM UTC-4, Iggy wrote:
replying to trader_4, Iggy wrote:
- I'm sorry, I didn't realize how far gone you were. Here's how it works, in
the real and normal world:

The plumber arrives with a stocked truck ready to handle most anything. They
get out of the truck and ring the doorbell to greet the owner and go assess
the problem, to determine what they'll need to address the problem. Then and
only then, do they go back to the truck to get only what they need.

Wow, you allegedly saved a plumber bringing what extra from the truck into the house with your miracle sink plumbing? Good grief.




- Unfortunately, I haven't and won't eliminate any industries, since I'm a
little nobody. But, I won't use their stuff and can remove them from the
equation. I'm working on removing Plastics, Brass, Galvanized Steel, Asphalt
everything, Furnaces and Boilers, Non-structural Steel Studs, Most
Insulations, Drywall and especially its horizontal installation of idiocy,
NASA, Government, Money, and at least a few more.

-



Nuff said, now we know you're nuts. I suppose she should throw out her furnace and drywall too.