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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#41
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) -- *What are the pink bits in my tyres? Cyclists & Joggers* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#42
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. |
#43
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. |
#44
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:11:01 -0500, PeterD wrote:
On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:13:21 +0900, "Michael Kennedy" wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , I suspect everyone else knows that bronze is much too brittle to use as a crimp on connector, but Dave hasn't gotten that far yet. Who said bronze? Cite a reference! |
#45
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:11:01 -0500, PeterD wrote:
On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:13:21 +0900, "Michael Kennedy" wrote: "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... In article , I suspect everyone else knows that bronze is much too brittle to use as a crimp on connector, but Dave hasn't gotten that far yet. Who said bronze? Cite a reference! |
#46
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. |
#47
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. |
#48
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. |
#49
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. |
#50
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. |
#51
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. |
#52
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. By right side I mean the opposite side than that shown on your crimper |
#53
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. By right side I mean the opposite side than that shown on your crimper |
#54
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote: I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. My dislike of the pre-insulated types is the crimp consists of flattening the part in contact with the cable. A link was posted earlier by Trevor Wilson where the first pic shows the type I prefer:- http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/...rmp/index.html You can't produce this sort of shape with a pre-insulated type as it would pierce the insulation. But then the pre-insulated types are used (in the UK) on mains wiring etc where the conductor is a single strand. And a heart shaped crimp wouldn't work with those. -- *Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#55
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
F Murtz wrote: Spade connectors have to have different properties to lugs because they rely on spring tension for electrical continuity but proper bolt on lugs are usually copper for copper cables, aluminium for aluminium cables. Agreed. But I've a feeling 'lug' is used as a very broad term. -- *It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#56
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. |
#57
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. -- *The modem is the message * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#58
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp. Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes toward the lug and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp the lug insulation to the cable insulation. If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left. |
#59
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp. Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes toward the lug and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp the lug insulation to the cable insulation. If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left. Here are two insulated lugs that I crimped with mine, from which I then stripped the insulation. http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg Note how the one on the left, which I bought from Dick Smith Electronics (DSE), has crimped the insulation as well, whereas the one on the right, with the shorter crimped section has not. This is not because I failed to insert the one on the right correctly - it's hole has a constant radius, and there is no room to put the insulation in. The one on the left has a barrel (there is no slot) that has a wider section to accomodate the insulation. The left one looks the better result, though I have to admit that with these two, they've passed any pull test I've managed to apply. I can only conclude that the fully insulated lugs that I bought from Jay Car are (and I use this word very rarely) crap, because I was able to pull them apart without even using pliers to hold the lug. Finally, I tried using the tool the other way around, on one of the DSE lugs. If there's any difference in the result, it will need to be determined by a stronger person. Sylvia. |
#60
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp. Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes toward the lug and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp the lug insulation to the cable insulation. If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left. I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the other is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips. http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/...K2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE |
#61
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp. Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes toward the lug and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp the lug insulation to the cable insulation. If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left. I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the other is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips. http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/...K2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE The teeth(?) look much the same in all cases. I originally envisaged something would push down further in the centre, to create the desired shape, but it appears they down't work that way. FWIW, here are images of both sides the business end of my tool http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimptool.jpg The bottom one is a mirror image, to make comparison easier. Sylvia. |
#62
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
F Murtz wrote:
F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp. Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes toward the lug and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp the lug insulation to the cable insulation. If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left. I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the other is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips. http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/...K2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE I am going to wear out the reply button. The heart shaped is for those non insulated open lugs you showed an url for earlier here is a couple more pics, I think,new at this pic posting http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/...CODVs7zcofCqDg |
#63
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: F Murtz wrote: Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp tools. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525 The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for extraneous contact when they're in place. Shame they perform so badly on the pull test. I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated range. I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:- http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php Made of brass, strangely. ;-) I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of the metal that gets crimped. The tool I'm using is one of these: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535 It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart. But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool is just crimping plastic. [*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go. Sylvia. The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation. As I said, they are equal. Sylvia. Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the cable connection and the left for the insulation. They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation. If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to prove it. Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436 in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the tool I have is definitely not one of those. Sylvia. The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp. Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes toward the lug and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp the lug insulation to the cable insulation. If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left. I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the other is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips. http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/...K2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE The teeth(?) look much the same in all cases. I originally envisaged something would push down further in the centre, to create the desired shape, but it appears they down't work that way. FWIW, here are images of both sides the business end of my tool http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimptool.jpg The bottom one is a mirror image, to make comparison easier. Sylvia. Yours have teeth mine does not that is why I have a separate crimper with more defined knife edge. It looks as if yours tries to be dual purpose. |
#64
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Clearly doesn't work in the case of these particular lugs. Sylvia. |
#65
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Clearly doesn't work in the case of these particular lugs. Indeed. I do have a crimp tool supplied by one of the bigger insulated crimp makers and I'll post some pics of the result later. Sylvia. -- *Always drink upstream from the herd * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#66
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Another paper here of relevance
http://www.eee.metu.edu.tr/~ssedele/.../GOKCEN/45.pdf -- Regards Blue Remove ZX from email address to reply directly. |
#67
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
And what's the view on the comparative effectiveness of swage
impact crimpers and hydraulic crimpers over ratchet crimpers? I find them both useful for automotive battery and similar large cabling but too cumbersome for smaller gauge wiring or close quarters as they need space and at least two free hands; indeed with the hydraulic I often need someone hold the cable and connector while I use two hands to crimp. And the swage impact crimper is a out of the car bench only tool. eg http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for an impact swage crimper and http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for a hydraulic crimper. I find with the right sized die they do seem to good job on even small terminals but if the size is even slightly wrong they tend to crush the terminal so its unusable. -- Regards Blue Remove ZX from email address to reply directly. |
#68
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
On Dec 2, 2:45*am, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
My dislike of the pre-insulated types is the crimp consists of flattening the part in contact with the cable. [ want cardioid crimp cross section, not oval] You can't produce this sort of shape with a pre-insulated type as it would pierce the insulation. The large crimp tools I've used have hydraulic rams and make a hexagon shape; it works fine, and is very reliable. Smaller ones make a cruciform shape (and those include military/aircraft grade crimpers), also very reliable. Very small crimpers for sheetmetal U preforms also can be very reliable. And the good insulated terminals I use are compatible with the cardioid crimp, it apparently doesn't destroy the plastic (but the part of the insulation where the crimp tool bears down isn't always pretty looking). My crimp pliers are good forged steel Kleins, but some of the better sheetmetal pliers (buy a brand name, like AMP or Channellock, there's some baddies out there) also work. I always thought the OVAL crimp was intended only to deform the insulation over the wire to make a dirt seal, not to make the electric/mechanical crimp. |
#69
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Bob Larter wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Exactly. It's there for strain relief. In the example I posted earlier, which has strain relief, it's metal that's crimped onto the insulator, not plastic. Sylvia. |
#70
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote: Bob Larter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Exactly. It's there for strain relief. In the example I posted earlier, which has strain relief, it's metal that's crimped onto the insulator, not plastic. The standard crimp tool for insulated terminals has parallel jaws, and those terminals have no provision for the metal part to crimp onto the insulation. Nor will the insulation fit inside the metal part if you're using the correct size, or at least with most cables. A very thin wall type might. But the design calls for all the metal part of the crimp to be in contact with the conductor. -- *Sticks and stones may break my bones but whips and chains excite me* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#71
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Bob Larter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Exactly. It's there for strain relief. In the example I posted earlier, which has strain relief, it's metal that's crimped onto the insulator, not plastic. The standard crimp tool for insulated terminals has parallel jaws, and those terminals have no provision for the metal part to crimp onto the insulation. Nor will the insulation fit inside the metal part if you're using the correct size, or at least with most cables. A very thin wall type might. But the design calls for all the metal part of the crimp to be in contact with the conductor. In the example I posted earlier http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg note how the lug on the left has a different diameter where it's crimped around the insulation to where it's crimped around the conductor. That difference existed prior to crimping - the diameter of the hole for the wire changes part of the way down the shaft so that insulation cannot go any further. It's true that this difference is not obviously reflected in the tool I used, but given that plastic deforms much more easily than metal, I can believe that having jaws the same size works out OK (it certainly seems to), and has the advantage that there's no right-way around to insert the lug into the tool. Sylvia. |
#72
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In , Sylvia wrote: Bob Larter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In , Sylvia wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Exactly. It's there for strain relief. In the example I posted earlier, which has strain relief, it's metal that's crimped onto the insulator, not plastic. The standard crimp tool for insulated terminals has parallel jaws, and those terminals have no provision for the metal part to crimp onto the insulation. Nor will the insulation fit inside the metal part if you're using the correct size, or at least with most cables. A very thin wall type might. But the design calls for all the metal part of the crimp to be in contact with the conductor. The proper crimp tool for the small insulated lugs as far as I know has two crimping sections separated by a gap which is designed to crimp both the conducting section on to the cable and the plastic on the lug to the cable insulation at the same time.The cheaper tool which is more common does one operation at a time (once for the cable crimp and once for the insulation)I think that sylvia's lugs have a heavier section for copper to copper and a flimsy copper skirt which continues back inside the plastic insulation over the cable insulation but I may be wrong. |
#73
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote: In the example I posted earlier http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg note how the lug on the left has a different diameter where it's crimped around the insulation to where it's crimped around the conductor. That difference existed prior to crimping - the diameter of the hole for the wire changes part of the way down the shaft so that insulation cannot go any further. It's true that this difference is not obviously reflected in the tool I used, but given that plastic deforms much more easily than metal, I can believe that having jaws the same size works out OK (it certainly seems to), and has the advantage that there's no right-way around to insert the lug into the tool. IMHO, that type of crimp would require a special tool - not the generic type for these pre-insulated connectors. -- *Arkansas State Motto: Don't Ask, Don't Tell, Don't Laugh. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#74
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Sylvia Else wrote: In the example I posted earlier http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg note how the lug on the left has a different diameter where it's crimped around the insulation to where it's crimped around the conductor. That difference existed prior to crimping - the diameter of the hole for the wire changes part of the way down the shaft so that insulation cannot go any further. It's true that this difference is not obviously reflected in the tool I used, but given that plastic deforms much more easily than metal, I can believe that having jaws the same size works out OK (it certainly seems to), and has the advantage that there's no right-way around to insert the lug into the tool. IMHO, that type of crimp would require a special tool - not the generic type for these pre-insulated connectors. The tool I have works much better on that type of connector than it does on the type where the lug metal doesn't extend back over the cable insulator. In the latter case, it merely squeezes some plastic which then returns to more or less its original shape. The tool may really be intended for lugs that crimp a longer section of the conductor, but I haven't come across any such lugs. Sylvia. |
#75
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 00:46:08 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: :In article , : Trevor Wilson wrote: : Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in : some form of spring loaded contact. : : **We're discussing CRIMP terminals. Like this: : : http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/...rmp/index.html : : Copper is the material, not brass. : :Heavy duty electrical ones may be - but the most common ones like in :computers and cars are brass. Aha! Now you have finally made the distinction in your argument... Commonly used terminals in the whitegoods and automotive areas (ie. QC crimp terminals) are indeed made of brass. But that is about the limit of use for this material. When it comes to electrical crimp lugs, spade terminals etc, then the lug/terminal material is always copper, unless you are using aluminium conductors where the terminal material will be aluminium. Take a look at the Utilux catalogue (small insulated and un-insulated terminals) http://www.utilux.com.au/pdf/4.pdf and you will see mentioned at the top of several pages the material is electro-tinned copper. Only the QC tabs are brass. |
#76
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
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How does crimping work?
In article ,
Ross Herbert wrote: Aha! Now you have finally made the distinction in your argument... Made it pretty well from the start. As I got the impression the OP wasn't talking about heavy duty power connections. Commonly used terminals in the whitegoods and automotive areas (ie. QC crimp terminals) are indeed made of brass. But that is about the limit of use for this material. When it comes to electrical crimp lugs, spade terminals etc, then the lug/terminal material is always copper, unless you are using aluminium conductors where the terminal material will be aluminium. Almost anywhere you go, there will be more crimped terminals which aren't copper - as they are sprung as part of a plug and socket arrangement. Many inside your computer, for a start. TV as well. Etc. -- *If you ate pasta and anti-pasta, would you still be hungry? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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How does crimping work?
Sylvia Else wrote:
Bob Larter wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , Sylvia Else wrote: Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat. Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp. Exactly. It's there for strain relief. In the example I posted earlier, which has strain relief, it's metal that's crimped onto the insulator, not plastic. So? It still relieves strain on the metal-to-metal joint. -- W . | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because \|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est ---^----^--------------------------------------------------------------- |
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How does crimping work?
Van Chocstraw wrote:
On 11/30/2009 07:54 AM, Sylvia Else wrote: The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that it holds the wire in place. This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure, which should result in a loose joint. After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it actually works. But that doesn't answer the question of how. Sylvia. Crimping is an emergency fix to me. It's a **** poor connection that can corrode and pull apart. I always use solder after crimping. solder is not as flexible and causes more trouble than crimping in some circumstances (in areas of vibration etc) |
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How does crimping work?
"Van Chocstraw" wrote in message news On 11/30/2009 07:54 AM, Sylvia Else wrote: The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that it holds the wire in place. This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure, which should result in a loose joint. After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it actually works. But that doesn't answer the question of how. Sylvia. Crimping is an emergency fix to me. It's a **** poor connection that can corrode and pull apart. I always use solder after crimping. **Then you're doing it wrong. -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au |
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How does crimping work?
"Trevor Wilson" wrote in
: "Van Chocstraw" wrote in message news On 11/30/2009 07:54 AM, Sylvia Else wrote: After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it actually works. Crimping is an emergency fix to me. It's a **** poor connection that can corrode and pull apart. I always use solder after crimping. **Then you're doing it wrong. Yup, adding solder will make the connection brittle, and more prone to failure in a vibration environment. Crimping is actually far more reliable. |
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