View Single Post
  #56   Report Post  
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
Sylvia Else Sylvia Else is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 246
Default How does crimping work?

F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525

The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.

Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.

I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php




Made of brass, strangely. ;-)


I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.

The tool I'm using is one of these:

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535




It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.

But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.

[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.

Sylvia.

The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.


As I said, they are equal.

Sylvia.

Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.


If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.

Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.

I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug

http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436

in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.

Sylvia.