Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

I usually crimp the seam-side. The theory being the edges of the metal
bite into the wire.
The best crimper IMHO is the Calterm 1250. Did a google, but couldn't
find a link.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Alex wrote:
Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes
under tooth of crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors
"neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex


--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Fri, 10 Mar 2006 21:33:06 -0800, JR North
wrote:

I usually crimp the seam-side. The theory being the edges of the metal
bite into the wire.
The best crimper IMHO is the Calterm 1250. Did a google, but couldn't
find a link.

I find the other way works better and is more consistent YMMV.

Are these better quality crimpers have wider jaws?
Mine don't actually "crimp" terminal but make a deep dent with it's narrow tooth in
terminal neck destroying insulation in the process. I normally make a couple of them
otherwise it doesn't hold wire too good.


JR North wrote:
I usually crimp the seam-side. The theory being the edges of the metal
bite into the wire.
The best crimper IMHO is the Calterm 1250. Did a google, but couldn't
find a link.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Alex wrote:

Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector
goes under tooth of crimping tool? The part where two ends of
connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

Alex wrote:
Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

Crimping tools are for people who never learnt how to solder.

Andrew VK3BFA.

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...

Alex wrote:
Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes
under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or
other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

Crimping tools are for people who never learnt how to solder.

Andrew VK3BFA.


Not necessarily! It depends on the circumstance where either soldering or
crimping is more practical.

I consider myself a master in soldering electrical connectors from years of
experience in the industry but I still use crimpers more often when working
with military avionics. Crimping is actually the better and preferred method
in 90% of the work.

"Alex" wrote in message
om...
Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes
under tooth of crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck"
tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

The tooth of the crimper should press the split side of the connector!
If you use it the other way there's a possibility you may separate the
connecting section into a "Y" shape.

"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote

Crimping tools are for people who never learnt how to solder.

Andrew VK3BFA.

Actually almost every standard for wiring in high vibration situations
discourage solder. Marine and automotive especially. Solder can creep out
into unsupported strands and increase the possibility of fatigue failure.
ABYC, Lloyds and several other marine standards strongly recommend crimp
rings only.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

I'm having a problem with the question: that crimper does not have a
"tooth", it has a pair of "yokes" that squeeze equally on both sides of
the connector.

Alex wrote:

Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes
under tooth of crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors
"neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
I'm having a problem with the question: that crimper does not have a
"tooth", it has a pair of "yokes" that squeeze equally on both sides of
the connector.


Crimpers come in various designs!
If your crimper has a design that does dot have a "tooth" then it is not
what is being discussed in this thread.

wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
I'm having a problem with the question: that crimper does not have a
"tooth", it has a pair of "yokes" that squeeze equally on both sides of
the connector.


Crimpers come in various designs!
If your crimper has a design that does dot have a "tooth" then it is not
what is being discussed in this thread.

And you are wrong. I just looked at the crimper in the picture, it is
one of those barely servicable models, you could do just as good a job
with a pair af vise grips as with that Boston tool.

wrote:


"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...
I'm having a problem with the question: that crimper does not have a
"tooth", it has a pair of "yokes" that squeeze equally on both sides of
the connector.


Crimpers come in various designs!
If your crimper has a design that does dot have a "tooth" then it is not
what is being discussed in this thread.

Uh, the guy included a link to a photo of the tool. It does not have
anything that I would describe as a "tooth".

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Alex wrote:

Are these better quality crimpers have wider jaws?
Mine don't actually "crimp" terminal but make a deep dent with it's narrow
tooth in terminal neck destroying insulation in the process. I normally
make a couple of them otherwise it doesn't hold wire too good.

Take a look at
http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/search.aspx?cid=212&q=insulated+terminal
and you'll find several compound-lever tools for insulated terminals that I
think you will find much more satisfactory than the tool that you are
using.

JR North wrote:
I usually crimp the seam-side. The theory being the edges of the metal
bite into the wire.
The best crimper IMHO is the Calterm 1250. Did a google, but couldn't
find a link.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Alex wrote:

Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector
goes under tooth of crimping tool? The part where two ends of
connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex




--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Alex wrote in
om:

Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector
goes under tooth of crimping tool? The part where two ends of
connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

You need a set of good crimpers such as these
http://www.rimindustries.com/browsep...-CutterPart---
86.1005.html

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

Alex wrote:
Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

These tend to do a bad job. I'd crimp in two places with such a tool.

If you do lots of crimping, this is good tool:

http://tools.tycoelectronics.com/priihatokit.html

the dies won't crush the insulation on the terminal, and it will compress
the metal inside as well as some of the plastic around the wire that hangs
out. Good crimp terminals make a difference too. Crappy ones split or
break apart.

On 11 Mar 2006 07:05:39 -0800, wrote:

I was taught that the split where it's folded together goes in the
saddle, and the tooth presses on the solid side. There is a possibility
of spreading the split apart if you do it the other way. Just my
opinion though.

Agreed. I've seen to many done the other way where only one half of
the split is pressed down.

And I suppose that AMP industies should stop making a direct knock off
the tool that was referenced.

wrote:
"RoyJ" wrote in message
ink.net...

I'm having a problem with the question: that crimper does not have a
"tooth", it has a pair of "yokes" that squeeze equally on both sides of
the connector.



Crimpers come in various designs!
If your crimper has a design that does dot have a "tooth" then it is not
what is being discussed in this thread.

I looked at the manual of this tool. It is a way better tool. It compresses the metal
all around wire. It should also take a lot mot more pressure to do it vs. cheap "tooth
into the metal" design therefore ratcheting is necessary.


Cydrome Leader wrote:
Alex wrote:

Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html


These tend to do a bad job. I'd crimp in two places with such a tool.

If you do lots of crimping, this is good tool:

http://tools.tycoelectronics.com/priihatokit.html

the dies won't crush the insulation on the terminal, and it will compress
the metal inside as well as some of the plastic around the wire that hangs
out. Good crimp terminals make a difference too. Crappy ones split or
break apart.

On Sat, 11 Mar 2006 03:59:45 GMT, Alex wrote:

Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

Thanks,
Alex

I was told by the 'Ideal' crimper dealer that the "toothed" crimper
was for use on NON insulated lugs. (tooth to the lug side opposite to
the seam) and the 'non toothed' crimper was used on INSULATED lugs.
(Doesn't damage the insulation as much) Been doin' crimps that way
for years with no apparent ill effects. YMMV
rgentry_at_oz_dot_net
_AT_ = @, _dot_ = . to eMail

wrote:
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...


Not necessarily! It depends on the circumstance where either soldering or
crimping is more practical.

I consider myself a master in soldering electrical connectors from years of
experience in the industry but I still use crimpers more often when working
with military avionics. Crimping is actually the better and preferred method
in 90% of the work.

Mmm, - this is a bit of a curly one. I agree - crimping tools are
preffered for many applications - BECAUSE it removes the need for skill
on the part of the operator. Tools such as this have traceable
calibaration, come in their own box with gauges, and usually have a
test set to test the conductivity of the connector. I have used them -
we were supposed to do test crimp every "XXXXX" connections and test.
I am certified to HRHS standards, and lately I have been gettng my
patch leads made up by a company that has the "proper" crimping
tools......because its easier AND cheaper than me buying the
connectors and spending HOURS making them up.

My issue is with the great majority of crimping tools and connectors
being cheap crap - useful for field repairs, or to get something
operational in a hurry, but will always try and do a good soldered
connection, with strain relief, and with heatshrink over the top.

The majority of so called "crimp connections" are better done with a
2lb hammer and a house brick anvil......

Andrew VK3BFA.

According to Alex :
Guys,

when you use crimping tools does it matter which side of connector goes under tooth of
crimping tool? The part where two ends of connectors "neck" tube meet or other side?

BTW I have a stripping/crimping tool like this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/bostonindustr...crtowi30t.html

The crimper illustrated there is a cheap one, and is made for
pre-insulated crimp terminals, where the seam is usually not visible,
and where there is no "tooth" -- the crimp is symmetrical.

For *good* crimpers, look for those made by AMP -- each one is
for a specific size of terminal (and the handle ends are painted a color
to match the color of the insulation).

Those usually have a device to orient the terminal before you
crimp it, even though the crimp is symmetrical -- and the crimp is wider
than most of the cheap crimpers, which usually require to cycles to
complete the crimp. For a symmetrical crimp, the blade of the terminal
should be parallel to the join line of the crimp jaws.

And a *good* crimper will have a cycle-control ratchet to force
you to complete closing the crimper before you release it -- and will
also have compound leverage.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

According to Alex :


Cydrome Leader wrote:
Alex wrote:

[ ... ]

These tend to do a bad job. I'd crimp in two places with such a tool.

If you do lots of crimping, this is good tool:

http://tools.tycoelectronics.com/priihatokit.html

the dies won't crush the insulation on the terminal, and it will compress
the metal inside as well as some of the plastic around the wire that hangs
out. Good crimp terminals make a difference too. Crappy ones split or
break apart.

I looked at the manual of this tool. It is a way better tool. It compresses the metal
all around wire. It should also take a lot mot more pressure to do it vs. cheap "tooth
into the metal" design therefore ratcheting is necessary.

Yes -- Tycho has absorbed AMP, who has always made the crimpers
which I prefer. (Mine are older styles, but this should be quite
satisfactory for crimping insulated terminals.)

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Andrew VK3BFA wrote:

wrote:
"Andrew VK3BFA" wrote in message
oups.com...


Not necessarily! It depends on the circumstance where either soldering or
crimping is more practical.

I consider myself a master in soldering electrical connectors from years of
experience in the industry but I still use crimpers more often when working
with military avionics. Crimping is actually the better and preferred method
in 90% of the work.

Mmm, - this is a bit of a curly one. I agree - crimping tools are
preffered for many applications - BECAUSE it removes the need for skill
on the part of the operator. Tools such as this have traceable
calibaration, come in their own box with gauges, and usually have a
test set to test the conductivity of the connector. I have used them -
we were supposed to do test crimp every "XXXXX" connections and test.
I am certified to HRHS standards, and lately I have been gettng my
patch leads made up by a company that has the "proper" crimping
tools......because its easier AND cheaper than me buying the
connectors and spending HOURS making them up.

My issue is with the great majority of crimping tools and connectors
being cheap crap - useful for field repairs, or to get something
operational in a hurry, but will always try and do a good soldered
connection, with strain relief, and with heatshrink over the top.

The majority of so called "crimp connections" are better done with a
2lb hammer and a house brick anvil......

Andrew VK3BFA.



If you dont have the proper tools for the job, it will most likely cause
problems in the future.

I had problems in an PA system in an old Convair. I traced the problem
to a splice box under the galley section. Almost every splice in that
box was bad. You could pull the wires out of the crimp with almost no
force at all. The leaky coffee urn dripping water and coffee into the
box didn't help much either.

John

I have a Thomas & Betts version similar to this Klein crimp/cutter.
(although the Klein tool image isn't clear enough for me to see the
second crimp location, to determine if it's a smaller version of the
clearer "partial-C" or moon-shape).

The T&B tool has 2 crimp spaces for 2 sizes of uninsulated/bare
terminals.. they're clearly marked that the tool is for uninsulated
terminals.
However, I frequently use them for insulated terminals that fit
properly in the half-round section. The forged tool is definitely wider
than a stamped-steel tool, and provides a very secure crimp for either
type of terminal.
When used with insulated types, the "tooth" (in that the shape
resembles a smooth single gear tooth) does displace the plastic
insulation sleeve enough to compromise the thickness of the insulation,
but that isn't usually a serious problem in most applications (since
the terminals aren't fully insulated anyway).

Stamped-steel crimpers such as the style that the OP referenced are
capable of making good crimps on insulated terminals (although the
crimp area is essentially just flattened), but I prefer a larger
crimped region and significant metal upset to insure a more reliable
connection. The handles of the forged tool are more comfortable, and
provide good leverage for tight crimps.
The thin style of crimper tool sometimes has a spike or tooth intended
for uninsulated terminals, but usually isn't much more effective than
using a blunt nail to make a crimp, IMO.
Another quality issue with the typical low-priced tool design, is that
the stripper section is often just a deformation that's formed as the
tool parts are stamped. Better verisions will have machine-ground
strippers.

High quality terminals are the only type that are worthwhile. Stainless
steel terminals are available for high temperature connections. Cheap
terminals may only have less than an eighth-inch for the crimp section.
For either type of terminal, I put the crimp depression on the back
side, opposite the split side. Specialized crimpers that deform the
split side typically have a "m" (or half of an 8) shape to create a
tight spot in the middle. Notice that terminals that are intended to be
crimped in this manner have open tabs before the terminal is crimped,
and the tabs often have ridges in them for a secure crimp.

WB
..............

Anthony wrote:

You need a set of good crimpers such as these
http://www.rimindustries.com/browsep...-CutterPart---
86.1005.html

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

Do a google search for: "how to crimp electrical terminals" and you'll
get lots of information. Now that I have a really good set of crimping
tools, I rarely use my cheaper crimpers, even my Greenlee.
This is the best one so far:
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page7.html

I have been using a crimper that's the twin of the OP's for 40+ years.
I can't say that I've never had a bad crimp, but very few. Almost
always a post-crimp tug will catch it.

Is it a "bad tool" and/or having I been creating "bad crimps"? My main
criterion is "Does it work?" Like most here, I use it for hobby work,
as I guess the OP does. Professional requirement *will* be different.

No doubt, the crimpers starting at $100 are better. But not worth it to
me. I'd say if you buy your crimps in 100-count boxes, you should get a
gold-standard crimper. If you buy variety packs or 10-count boxes, a
$10 one will do. If I didn't already have 2, I'd get the $26 Klein - a
nice middle ground.

Bob

According to Bob Engelhardt :
I have been using a crimper that's the twin of the OP's for 40+ years.
I can't say that I've never had a bad crimp, but very few. Almost
always a post-crimp tug will catch it.

Is it a "bad tool" and/or having I been creating "bad crimps"? My main
criterion is "Does it work?" Like most here, I use it for hobby work,
as I guess the OP does. Professional requirement *will* be different.

No doubt, the crimpers starting at $100 are better. But not worth it to
me.

Almost all of my crimpers were purchased at surplus sales,
hamfests, or eBay auctions. There, you can get excellent crimpers for
quite reasonable prices. I am a hobbist as well -- I just was exposed
to industrial quality tools when I worked for a manufacturer who made
things for the military -- things like four-off flight simulators and
such. And once exposed to those, I find the others quite
unsatisfactory.

With a quick search through eBay I find auction #7598573080
which has a crimper by AMP which can handle two sizes of terminals --
those for the red terminals (22-16 Gauge), and for the blue terminals
(16-14 Gauge). The current bid is $15.50. My own preference is for
single size crimpers, but I would expect this one to work quite well,
too -- and to save a bit of room in the toolbox.

Here is an example of what I use -- auction #7599234970
(currently at $9.95) There aren't even any bids on it at present.

The three sizes which I use most a

red 22-16 Ga
blue 16-14 Ga
yellow 12-10 Ga

(the colors repeat though other size ranges, but these are the most
common, and the most useful generally. I've got crimpers capable of
handling wire sizes up through 4/0, and the dies for the larger ones up
through 3/0. It has turned into a collection for me -- but a quite
useful collection. :-)

In the other direction, I go down to 30 Ga in various formats.

I'd say if you buy your crimps in 100-count boxes, you should get a
gold-standard crimper. If you buy variety packs or 10-count boxes, a
$10 one will do. If I didn't already have 2, I'd get the $26 Klein - a
nice middle ground.

Actually -- the more crimps you do in a year, the more you are
able to work around the limitations of cheap crimpers -- and the more
you appreciate *good* crimpers. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Ooooh - now you've done it!! Now you've gotten me hooked. I suddenly
have this obsession to find a good, cheap one on eBay. That means
researching the models, checking Completed prices, eBay searches and
watching. Rats!

DoN. Nichols wrote:
...
With a quick search through eBay I find auction #7598573080
which has a crimper by AMP which can handle two sizes of terminals --
those for the red terminals (22-16 Gauge), and for the blue terminals
(16-14 Gauge). The current bid is $15.50. ...

That would be my first choice - 95% of my crimps are in that range. But
it's at $47 (shipped) with 6 hrs to go. Too much. (Googling this
crimper found retail offerings for $700, $800, & $900. YIKES!! Maybe
$47 isn't too much.)

Here is an example of what I use -- auction #7599234970
(currently at $9.95) ...

This is curious. The auction picture shows a sticker with yellow "14 -
12" & red "22 - 16":
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7599234970

but the spec sheet at Mouser shows it 16 - 26:
http://littleurl.com/?04io click through to "Manufacturer Data Sheet".
Anyhow, no-blue,no-good.

Bob

wait - I'm doing my eBay searches on "AMP crimper", are there any other
brands that I should be looking for?

According to Bob Engelhardt :
Ooooh - now you've done it!! Now you've gotten me hooked. I suddenly
have this obsession to find a good, cheap one on eBay. That means
researching the models, checking Completed prices, eBay searches and
watching. Rats!

DoN. Nichols wrote:
...
With a quick search through eBay I find auction #7598573080
which has a crimper by AMP which can handle two sizes of terminals --
those for the red terminals (22-16 Gauge), and for the blue terminals
(16-14 Gauge). The current bid is $15.50. ...

That would be my first choice - 95% of my crimps are in that range. But
it's at $47 (shipped) with 6 hrs to go. Too much. (Googling this
crimper found retail offerings for $700, $800, & $900. YIKES!! Maybe
$47 isn't too much.)

:-)

You might do better with lots of patience. I have the
individual crimpers for each size range, and most of the non-hydraulic
ones cost something in the $15.00 -- $35.00 range -- with the lower
price being the ones acquired longer ago.

Red and Blue are the two sizes which I use the most, but I've
used (here at home) crimped terminals up to #6 Gauge, and down to #28
Gauge (excluding pins for connectors, for which I have used even
smaller.)

Here is an example of what I use -- auction #7599234970
(currently at $9.95) ...

This is curious. The auction picture shows a sticker with yellow "14 -
12" & red "22 - 16":
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7599234970

Note that there are different terminal types listed for those
two ranges

22-16: (red) for PIDG (Pre Insulated Diamond Grip) -- the terminals which I
normally use.

14-12: (yellow) for something called "Pre Insul. Sealed", which I have
not used to date.

So -- for normal use, that is a "red" crimper only.

but the spec sheet at Mouser shows it 16 - 26:
http://littleurl.com/?04io click through to "Manufacturer Data Sheet".
Anyhow, no-blue,no-good.

Not so. I don't see *anything* which covers the 26-16 range
(larger number -- smaller gauge -- is first in the size range listings).

The 47386 (the one shown in the auction) is in the "red" list.
"blue" is 47387 instead -- the next group down. Both are "long handle"
style, as are most above the 26-22 range (small yellow), and some of
those are long handle as well.

Bob

wait - I'm doing my eBay searches on "AMP crimper", are there any other
brands that I should be looking for?

There are other brands, but I don't have experience with them to
decide which to recommend and which to not.

Add "P.I.D.G" or "PIDG" to the search terms, and it will reduce
the number of other crimpers which you turn up. Ideally, only
"P.I.D.G." should be necessary, but you can't depend on eBay vendors to
avoid taking the lazy way out sometimes. :-)

P.I.D.G. is about the design of the insulation. It has a bell
to accept the wire's insulation, with a lip turned back towards the
terminal barrel to grip the insulation. In older terminals, it is a
layer of thin sheet metal between the plastic insulation and the metal
terminal barrel. In the later ones, with the nylon insulation, it is
the nylon itself which is turned back. (Those are mostly translucent,
with a color stripe in the Nylon, instead of a solid color.)

The crimper has pins which fit into one of three numbered holes
on each half of the head. This changes the size of the insulation
crimp, while the wire connection crimp remains a constant size. The
crimped insulation grip takes on a diamond shape with ears "--" , and
it is the walls of the diamond which grip the insulation to keep it from
sliding back up the wire.

I've used other brands of crimpers for machined pins which
insert into the backs of connectors. The best of these is the
"Daniels", but it needs a separate one for each size of pin. The four
indenters are controlled by a wheel which can be locked into one of
eight positions to set the depth of the crimp.

Amphenol (not to be confused with AMP) makes (or made) such
crimpers in which the bushing nest also set the depth of the crimp.
Buchannan also made some good ones.

For the terminals which are stamped and formed out of sheet
metal (including the pins most often used with the DB-25 style serial
interface connectors), the crimpers from AMP will be marked with a
"Type-F" designation, and there are several sizes of these. If you care
about these terminals, too, at least one version for the DB series
connectors is labeled "90312-1". It has provisions for two wire size
ranges, 28-24 (blue), and 24-20 (red). On the back is a sliding
terminal nest made of Delrin which will slide to the side and then up
between the jaws to allow insertion of the terminal, then it is slid
back down and back to the other side (where a spring holds it) to hold
the pin in the proper height and orientation until the crimp is
completed. This one does not have the "Type-F" designation visible on
it. Mine does have a marking from some company's tool room, however. I
got it from eBay, after having used one of the same sort at work.

This is for the terminals with two sets of 'U'-shaped ears, one
to crimp onto the bare wire, and the other to grip the insulation. The
cheaper pins have only one set of ears -- for the wire only, and the
insulation is left outside the connector body. The crimpers for those
are the cheap tools combined with bolt cutters, and they have no ratchet
to ensure a complete cycle before release.

Enjoy,
DoN.
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