I have a Thomas & Betts version similar to this Klein crimp/cutter.
(although the Klein tool image isn't clear enough for me to see the
second crimp location, to determine if it's a smaller version of the
clearer "partial-C" or moon-shape).

The T&B tool has 2 crimp spaces for 2 sizes of uninsulated/bare
terminals.. they're clearly marked that the tool is for uninsulated
terminals.
However, I frequently use them for insulated terminals that fit
properly in the half-round section. The forged tool is definitely wider
than a stamped-steel tool, and provides a very secure crimp for either
type of terminal.
When used with insulated types, the "tooth" (in that the shape
resembles a smooth single gear tooth) does displace the plastic
insulation sleeve enough to compromise the thickness of the insulation,
but that isn't usually a serious problem in most applications (since
the terminals aren't fully insulated anyway).

Stamped-steel crimpers such as the style that the OP referenced are
capable of making good crimps on insulated terminals (although the
crimp area is essentially just flattened), but I prefer a larger
crimped region and significant metal upset to insure a more reliable
connection. The handles of the forged tool are more comfortable, and
provide good leverage for tight crimps.
The thin style of crimper tool sometimes has a spike or tooth intended
for uninsulated terminals, but usually isn't much more effective than
using a blunt nail to make a crimp, IMO.
Another quality issue with the typical low-priced tool design, is that
the stripper section is often just a deformation that's formed as the
tool parts are stamped. Better verisions will have machine-ground
strippers.

High quality terminals are the only type that are worthwhile. Stainless
steel terminals are available for high temperature connections. Cheap
terminals may only have less than an eighth-inch for the crimp section.
For either type of terminal, I put the crimp depression on the back
side, opposite the split side. Specialized crimpers that deform the
split side typically have a "m" (or half of an 8) shape to create a
tight spot in the middle. Notice that terminals that are intended to be
crimped in this manner have open tabs before the terminal is crimped,
and the tabs often have ridges in them for a secure crimp.

WB
..............

Anthony wrote:

You need a set of good crimpers such as these
http://www.rimindustries.com/browsep...-CutterPart---
86.1005.html

--
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

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