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Sylvia Else Sylvia Else is offline
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Default How does crimping work?

F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525

The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.

Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.

I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php



Made of brass, strangely. ;-)


I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.

The tool I'm using is one of these:

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535



It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.

But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.

[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.

Sylvia.

The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger
bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.


As I said, they are equal.

Sylvia.