View Single Post
  #59   Report Post  
Posted to aus.electronics,sci.electronics.repair
Sylvia Else Sylvia Else is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 246
Default How does crimping work?

F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the
crimp
tools.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525

The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an
SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.

Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.

I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php





Made of brass, strangely. ;-)


I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the
length of
the metal that gets crimped.

The tool I'm using is one of these:

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/T3535





It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.

But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.

[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.

Sylvia.

The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.

As I said, they are equal.

Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.


If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.

Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.

I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug

http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-sold...8mm/dp/3625436



in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.

Sylvia.

The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.


Here are two insulated lugs that I crimped with mine, from which I then
stripped the insulation.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg

Note how the one on the left, which I bought from Dick Smith Electronics
(DSE), has crimped the insulation as well, whereas the one on the right,
with the shorter crimped section has not. This is not because I failed
to insert the one on the right correctly - it's hole has a constant
radius, and there is no room to put the insulation in. The one on the
left has a barrel (there is no slot) that has a wider section to
accomodate the insulation.

The left one looks the better result, though I have to admit that with
these two, they've passed any pull test I've managed to apply. I can
only conclude that the fully insulated lugs that I bought from Jay Car
are (and I use this word very rarely) crap, because I was able to pull
them apart without even using pliers to hold the lug.

Finally, I tried using the tool the other way around, on one of the DSE
lugs. If there's any difference in the result, it will need to be
determined by a stronger person.

Sylvia.