The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Sylvia.

Sylvia Else wrote:
The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Sylvia.
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding and
contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:54:12 +1100, Sylvia Else
wrote:

The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Because the wire bundle inside the crimp also rebounds?

Interesting NASA paper that may shed some light:
http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20080013394_2008012901.pdf

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

Rich Webb a écrit :
On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:54:12 +1100, Sylvia Else
wrote:

The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Because the wire bundle inside the crimp also rebounds?

Interesting NASA paper that may shed some light:
http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20080013394_2008012901.pdf


Interesting.
And the FEM simulation vs measurement paragraph is somewhat impressive.


--
Thanks,
Fred.

In article ,
F Murtz wrote:
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding and
contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually copper.

--
*Why are a wise man and a wise guy opposites?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

Having the correct crimp tool is essential for good results.

--


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
F wrote:
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding and
contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually copper.

crimp lugs are usually copper for copper wire

Sylvia Else wrote:
The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Sylvia.
The crimp wire squishes the corners of the pin so intensely,
that a gas-tight connection forms, 4 for each winding.
That makes a very reliable connection.
But only if you do the wrap correctly.

In article ,
F Murtz wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
F wrote:
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding
and contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually
copper.

crimp lugs are usually copper for copper wire

Perhaps lug means some special terminal in the US?

But most of the crimped terminals you come across - like say in a car or
computer - are brass, but sometimes plated.

--
*If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 17:56:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
F Murtz wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
F wrote:
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding
and contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually
copper.

crimp lugs are usually copper for copper wire

Perhaps lug means some special terminal in the US?

But most of the crimped terminals you come across - like say in a car or
computer - are brass, but sometimes plated.

Cite a reference.

In article ,
PeterD wrote:
But most of the crimped terminals you come across - like say in a car or
computer - are brass, but sometimes plated.

Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

--
*How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
F Murtz wrote:
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding and
contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually copper.

**Only cheap, crappy crimps are brass. For copper wire, crimps should be
copper.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

"Sylvia Else" wrote in message
...
The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that it
holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard you
squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure, which
should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

**A properly sized crimp (to the wire size), used with a quality crimp tool,
used correctly, will ensure an excellent, gas tight connection. Better, in
fact, than a soldered joint.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually
copper.

**Only cheap, crappy crimps are brass. For copper wire, crimps should be
copper.

Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in some
form of spring loaded contact. And those tend to be made of brass because
it is stronger than copper, so gives a better contact.

--
*How do you tell when you run out of invisible ink? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually
copper.

**Only cheap, crappy crimps are brass. For copper wire, crimps
should be copper.

Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in
some form of spring loaded contact.

**We're discussing CRIMP terminals. Like this:

http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/...rmp/index.html

Copper is the material, not brass.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

On Nov 30, 3:26*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article ,
* *Trevor Wilson wrote:

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually
copper.

**Only cheap, crappy crimps are brass. For copper wire, crimps should be
copper.

Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in some
form of spring loaded contact. And those tend to be made of brass

Phosphor bronze or beryllium copper are the springy metals in common
use (it may LOOK like brass...). A well-made crimp requires lots of
thought about materials. Commonly, copper stranded cable works, a
copper stranded
cable with a couple of SS strands works, a copper solid cable of the
same gage doesn't work... and don't even TRY to crimp to a SS
cable with 'electronic' tools and lugs.

Even the professionals get it wrong sometimes (Al wire is just fine
with
the right electrode paste and crimp lugs, but has a bad reputation).
When amateurs get 'kits' and pliers at the dollar store, the result
isn't
pretty.

On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 18:28:28 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
PeterD wrote:
But most of the crimped terminals you come across - like say in a car or
computer - are brass, but sometimes plated.

Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Rich Webb wrote:
On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:54:12 +1100, Sylvia Else
wrote:

The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Because the wire bundle inside the crimp also rebounds?

It probably does, but the wide bundle is being subject to compression,
whereas the connector is subject to both compression and bending. I'd
expect a certain degree of unbending when the compression is released.

Sylvia.

In article ,
Trevor Wilson wrote:
Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in
some form of spring loaded contact.

**We're discussing CRIMP terminals. Like this:

http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/...rmp/index.html

Copper is the material, not brass.

Heavy duty electrical ones may be - but the most common ones like in
computers and cars are brass.

--
*He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

--
*Forget the Joneses, I keep us up with the Simpsons.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Sjouke Burry wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago,
I recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Sylvia.
The crimp wire squishes the corners of the pin so intensely,
that a gas-tight connection forms, 4 for each winding.

I think you're referring to wire wrapping, which is something else.

Sylvia.

In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
The crimp wire squishes the corners of the pin so intensely,
that a gas-tight connection forms, 4 for each winding.

I think you're referring to wire wrapping, which is something else.

It's the case too with a properly made crimp. Which very few are outside
of the factory. There's no such thing as a universal crimp tool - each
connector and cable requires a special for the very best results.

--
*Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Sylvia Else" wrote in message
...
Rich Webb wrote:
On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 23:54:12 +1100, Sylvia Else
wrote:

The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Because the wire bundle inside the crimp also rebounds?

It probably does, but the wide bundle is being subject to compression,
whereas the connector is subject to both compression and bending. I'd
expect a certain degree of unbending when the compression is released.

Sylvia.

There may be some expansion on release of the crimping pressure but the
interior of the crimp junction is still under pressure.

Regards ........ Rheilly P

On 2009-11-30, PeterD wrote:
On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 17:56:29 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
F Murtz wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In ,
F wrote:
Usually the conductor is the same metal as the lug, it will have the
same memory so if it is all squished it should stay there.Expanding
and contracting in use at the same rate. (maybe)

Most connectors are brass - to give more strength. Cable usually
copper.

crimp lugs are usually copper for copper wire

Perhaps lug means some special terminal in the US?

But most of the crimped terminals you come across - like say in a car or
computer - are brass, but sometimes plated.

Cite a reference.

http://nz.farnell.com/tyco-electroni...ive/dp/4215631

In article
,
whit3rd wrote:
Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in some
form of spring loaded contact. And those tend to be made of brass

Phosphor bronze or beryllium copper are the springy metals in common
use (it may LOOK like brass...).

Could well be - I've not had it analyzed. But it certainly doesn't look
like copper. ;-)
Of course it could be all these sort of things are copper in the US. I can
only speak for the ones I'm familiar with in the UK.

--
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
wrote:
Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in some
form of spring loaded contact. And those tend to be made of brass

Phosphor bronze or beryllium copper are the springy metals in common
use (it may LOOK like brass...).

Could well be - I've not had it analyzed. But it certainly doesn't look
like copper. ;-)
Of course it could be all these sort of things are copper in the US. I can
only speak for the ones I'm familiar with in the UK.

Spade connectors have to have different properties to lugs because they
rely on spring tension for electrical continuity but proper bolt on lugs
are usually copper for copper cables, aluminium for aluminium cables.

http://www.zeetaelectricals.com/

In article ,
F Murtz wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
wrote:
Depends on the use. I'd say the most common crimp terminals are in
some form of spring loaded contact. And those tend to be made of
brass

Phosphor bronze or beryllium copper are the springy metals in common
use (it may LOOK like brass...).

Could well be - I've not had it analyzed. But it certainly doesn't
look like copper. ;-) Of course it could be all these sort of things
are copper in the US. I can only speak for the ones I'm familiar with
in the UK.

Spade connectors have to have different properties to lugs because they
rely on spring tension for electrical continuity but proper bolt on lugs
are usually copper for copper cables, aluminium for aluminium cables.

Yes - I did ask if 'lug' had a special meaning in this context.
http://www.zeetaelectricals.com/

I just sort of assumed the discussion was more about electronic terminals
than heavy duty power distribution. Hence my reference to computers, etc.

--
*I'm already visualizing the duct tape over your mouth

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

--
*Forget the Joneses, I keep us up with the Simpsons.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Good grief... Cite a reference.. How is a reference better than actually
having the item in hand. I say the reference is any piece of equipment that
has crimps in it. Anyhow.. Someone happened to cite the needed info..

Sylvia Else wrote:
The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Sylvia.

BTW, I'm seeing huge variation between lug types (same colour -
different brand). I bought some fully insulated ones - and could pull
them all off with no difficulty. The ones I had in my stock from way
back either failed by tearing the conductor - or had a strength
exceeding mine, and didn't fail.

At least there was some consistency - lugs out of the same box performed
the same as each other.

The crimping tool has a 'pressure' setting, but comes with no guidance
on how to decide which pressure to use.

Sylvia.

On Nov 30, 10:54 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
The obvious answer is that you bend the metal of the connector so that
it holds the wire in place.

This doesn't seem very satisfactory. Metal always retains some
flexibility, even when bent beyond its yield point. No matter how hard
you squeeze, there'll be some rebound when you release the pressure,
which should result in a loose joint.

After having had a bad experience trying to crip a lug some years ago, I
recently faced the need to do this again. So I bought a moderately
expensive ratchet based crimping tool. And, rather to my surprise, it
actually works.

But that doesn't answer the question of how.

Sylvia.

The ratchet tool provides substantial mechanical advantage compared to
many of the cheap tools, and therefore enormous pressure on the
joint. With the right tool, the joint is squashed down by the exact
amount, whereas cheap hand tools are more "hit and miss" as to whether
you have applied the right pressure to them. the "die" is also a lot
better on ones that I have seen, and probably designed to put the
pressure in the exact right places at the right time during the crimp.
(ie, more efficient use of the energy you apply with your hands)

As the metal parts of the surface being crimped are squashed really
hard by the tool, they probably heat up (compression causes heat, and
metals expand with heat,), and then shrink as they cool, tightening on
the wire ?.

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 00:47:44 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

OK, so clearly you don't have a clue, no evidence or facts to base
your lame assertion on, so...

On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:13:21 +0900, "Michael Kennedy"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

--
*Forget the Joneses, I keep us up with the Simpsons.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Good grief... Cite a reference..

I've asked several times, and he's avoided doing so. Mainly because
he's off on cloud nine, with no idea what he's talking about.

I suspect everyone else knows that bronze is much too brittle to use
as a crimp on connector, but Dave hasn't gotten that far yet.

How is a reference better than actually
having the item in hand. I say the reference is any piece of equipment that
has crimps in it. Anyhow.. Someone happened to cite the needed info..

PeterD wrote:
On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:13:21 +0900, "Michael
wrote:


"Dave Plowman wrote in message
...
In ,
wrote:
Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

--
*Forget the Joneses, I keep us up with the Simpsons.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Good grief... Cite a reference..

I've asked several times, and he's avoided doing so. Mainly because
he's off on cloud nine, with no idea what he's talking about.

I suspect everyone else knows that bronze is much too brittle to use
as a crimp on connector, but Dave hasn't gotten that far yet.

How is a reference better than actually
having the item in hand. I say the reference is any piece of equipment that
has crimps in it. Anyhow.. Someone happened to cite the needed info..

It is possible that some spade connectors are made out of phosphor
bronze (especially the ones used in heating devices like stove elements)
but the discussion was about crimp lugs

In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
BTW, I'm seeing huge variation between lug types (same colour -
different brand). I bought some fully insulated ones - and could pull
them all off with no difficulty. The ones I had in my stock from way
back either failed by tearing the conductor - or had a strength
exceeding mine, and didn't fail.

If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools. Some seem to be made out of 'silver' foil. But even with the best,
it's interesting to cut off the insulation after crimping and examine the
quality of the crimp, especially at the bottom end of the range catered
for. To me, the only really satisfactory crimp is the type that forms a
heart shaped cross section after crimping - and those don't.
At least there was some consistency - lugs out of the same box performed
the same as each other.

The crimping tool has a 'pressure' setting, but comes with no guidance
on how to decide which pressure to use.

--
*Ah, I see the f**k-up fairy has visited us again

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

OK, so clearly you don't have a clue, no evidence or facts to base
your lame assertion on, so...

I know what copper looks like. Clearly, you don't.

--
*How do they get the deer to cross at that yellow road sign?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:11:01 -0500, PeterD wrote:

On Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:13:21 +0900, "Michael Kennedy"
wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Cite a reference.

Try cutting one open.

That tells you nothing about the metal... Again, cite a reference.

Do you know the colour of copper?

--
*Forget the Joneses, I keep us up with the Simpsons.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Good grief... Cite a reference..

I've asked several times, and he's avoided doing so. Mainly because
he's off on cloud nine, with no idea what he's talking about.

I suspect everyone else knows that bronze is much too brittle to use
as a crimp on connector, but Dave hasn't gotten that far yet.

Somebody probably ought to let the manufacturers know about that!
http://documents.tycoelectronics.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1775442&DocTyp e=CD&DocLang=EN
http://www.hirose.co.jp/cataloge_hp/e54300012.pdf
http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/503948100_sd.pdf
.... and lots of others, of course.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

In article ,
PeterD wrote:
Good grief... Cite a reference..

I've asked several times, and he's avoided doing so. Mainly because
he's off on cloud nine, with no idea what he's talking about.

I suspect everyone else knows that bronze is much too brittle to use
as a crimp on connector, but Dave hasn't gotten that far yet.

So we can add bronze to brass as metals you can't tell the difference from
copper?

--
*A fool and his money are soon partying *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
BTW, I'm seeing huge variation between lug types (same colour -
different brand). I bought some fully insulated ones - and could pull
them all off with no difficulty. The ones I had in my stock from way
back either failed by tearing the conductor - or had a strength
exceeding mine, and didn't fail.

If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525

The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so
these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.

Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.

Sylvia.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
BTW, I'm seeing huge variation between lug types (same colour -
different brand). I bought some fully insulated ones - and could pull
them all off with no difficulty. The ones I had in my stock from way
back either failed by tearing the conductor - or had a strength
exceeding mine, and didn't fail.

If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525

The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so
these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.

Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.

Sylvia.

In article ,
Sylvia Else wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525

The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA, so
these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.

Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.

I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated
range.

I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php

Made of brass, strangely. ;-)

--
*What are the pink bits in my tyres? Cyclists & Joggers*

Dave Plowman London SW
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