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#1
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I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander (or combo), a router table, and a OSS. I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? |
#2
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Yes!
-- Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company ____ "Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long |
#3
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No!
-- Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company ____ "Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long |
#4
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Maybe!
-- Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company ____ "Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long |
#5
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![]() writes: I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander (or combo), a router table, and a OSS. I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? A 2"x40" low speed belt sander does a great job sharpening things like drill bits, shears, construction chisels, etc. As a boat builder, I'd be lost without a 12" disk sander for shaping work. YMMV Lew |
#6
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![]() wrote in message I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a burr off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that I can't think of at the moment. -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ |
#7
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#8
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#9
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#10
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It seems inconceivable to me to be with out either one. Although the 12"
disk gets the lion share, the belt and spindle gets used at some point on every project. As I work with both metal and wood, I am trying to think what I would do if I had to give up one of them... Nope, I would just end up buying a new one again. Dave wrote in message ... I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander (or combo), a router table, and a OSS. I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? |
#11
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![]() "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message . .. wrote in message I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a burr off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that I can't think of at the moment. -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ Sharpening flat pencils |
#12
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#13
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"Vic Baron" wrote in message
t... "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message . .. wrote in message I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a burr off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that I can't think of at the moment. -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ Sharpening flat pencils Isn't there some attachment for your compressor to fix flat pencils? -j |
#15
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![]() "J" wrote in message ... "Vic Baron" wrote in message t... "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message . .. wrote in message I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a burr off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that I can't think of at the moment. -- Ed http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ Sharpening flat pencils Isn't there some attachment for your compressor to fix flat pencils? -j red faced I lost it and have to save up to get a new one. V |
#16
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On Thu, 03 Feb 2005 23:17:35 -0700,
wrote: I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander (or combo), a router table, and a OSS. I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? I just added a disk/belt sander to my shop wish list. I was rebuilding a recliner (long story) and had knocked apart the doweled joints on the base that had worked loose. Before re-gluing I wanted to square the ends of the pieces and clean off the old glue. Nothing I had around the shop short of very careful work on the TS would do the job. I couldn't take off more than a hair or the mechanism wouldn't fit any more. I tried careful hand work with a sander but ended up rounding the ends too much for my satisfaction, although the re-assembled chair seems strong enough. I occurred to me that a well aligned disk sander with a table and miter gauge would have made this task trivial. From there I could see lots of places where it would be useful, so it went on the list. It does, however, fall below the band-saw and OSS. Tim Douglass http://www.DouglassClan.com |
#17
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Patriarch wrote:
the tool I need to use for the new project, and 3) find the things I _know_ are in there somewhere, before I buy another one in frustration. I found my glue gun. It was actually there the whole time. Sometimes you forget to look in the most obvious place for things. Like where it actually goes. I haven't quite been brave enough to plug it in though, seeing as how it's covered in 324.7 million cubic tons of dust. -- Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621 http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/ http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/ |
#18
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if you get less then a 12" disc your wasting your money. as you can only use
maybe 3" of that disc in reality the smaller the less you can use. you want only a 1700 rpm motor too. anything else would only work for steel. same with the belt sander. only if you go up to a 6x89 can you handle the normal speed of most motors. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#19
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On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 00:15:11 -0800, Steve Knight
wrote: if you get less then a 12" disc your wasting your money. as you can only use maybe 3" of that disc in reality the smaller the less you can use. you want only a 1700 rpm motor too. anything else would only work for steel. same with the belt sander. only if you go up to a 6x89 can you handle the normal speed of most motors. Twelve inch disk is what I was looking at. Most of the belts seem to be 6x48, which at 1725 RPM gives 2500 fpm. I don't really see where making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use. Grizzly part no. G1276 was pretty much what I had in mind. Tim Douglass http://www.DouglassClan.com |
#20
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![]() "Tim Douglass" wrote in message I don't really see where making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use. You can put a longer piece up to it and sand it smooth and straight. Longer is better. |
#21
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On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 21:02:50 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: "Tim Douglass" wrote in message I don't really see where making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use. You can put a longer piece up to it and sand it smooth and straight. Longer is better. Duh! sound of hand slapping forehead Tim Douglass http://www.DouglassClan.com |
#22
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![]() Twelve inch disk is what I was looking at. Most of the belts seem to be 6x48, which at 1725 RPM gives 2500 fpm. I don't really see where making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use. heat is the issue. the longer the belt the less heat buildup so the faster you can run it. it will last far longer too. but if you run a smaller belt faster the heat will burn the wood and make the belt wear far faster. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#23
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![]() You can put a longer piece up to it and sand it smooth and straight. Longer is better. it's hard to sand straight with any belt sander. only if the belts are pretty fresh. as usual it tends to round over things. the belt well usually cut on the ends faster then in the middle same with the edges of the belt. -- Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions. |
#24
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On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, Larry Kraus
wrote: How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion? I leave an extra "wye" fitting at every dead end, with a short piece of pipe and a cap duct taped to the extra hole.. Adding more duct is easy. My system is PVC, so the fittings are cheap enough. The extra opening also facilitates removing the occasional blockage. Barry |
#25
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On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus
spake: wrote: I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander (or combo), a router table, and a OSS. I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? Abbalooley. Maybe the question should be: How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion? Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or maybe just re-arrange the ones you have. Buy a complete DC kit from www.Grizzly.com for $56 + s/h. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G3182 or Buy 50' of duct through Amazon.com for $28 (+ free shipping!) Buy Y adapters and clamps. Cut and paste into whatever config you want. NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly. -------------------------------------------- Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels. http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design ================================================== ==== |
#26
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4" stuff is not really going to cut it. I'm using 6" s&d
pipe/fittings with 6" flex. see, http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Ducting.cfm There are also many limits given the size of DC and piping, so I'm taking that into consideration. Bottom line.. minimize duct lengths.. minimize bends.. minimize flex I'm trying to have one main run straight of the DC and then wye into it only. But it seems I'm going to need to do a 45 jog to move the line to the perimiter of the building to keep the duct out of the work area | | / / | | Along that run, will be wye's to the TS, jointer, BS, DP, MS On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:23:10 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote: On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus spake: wrote: I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander (or combo), a router table, and a OSS. I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a belt/disk sander? Abbalooley. Maybe the question should be: How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion? Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or maybe just re-arrange the ones you have. Buy a complete DC kit from www.Grizzly.com for $56 + s/h. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G3182 or Buy 50' of duct through Amazon.com for $28 (+ free shipping!) Buy Y adapters and clamps. Cut and paste into whatever config you want. NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly. -------------------------------------------- Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels. http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design ================================================= ===== |
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