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Default DC layout - will I ever want a belt or disk sander?

I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander
(or combo), a router table, and a OSS.

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?
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Fly-by-Night CC
 
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Yes!

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long
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Fly-by-Night CC
 
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No!

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long
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Fly-by-Night CC
 
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Maybe!

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long
  #5   Report Post  
Lew Hodgett
 
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writes:

I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander
(or combo), a router table, and a OSS.

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?


A 2"x40" low speed belt sander does a great job sharpening things like drill
bits, shears, construction chisels, etc.

As a boat builder, I'd be lost without a 12" disk sander for shaping work.

YMMV

Lew




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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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wrote in message

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?


I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a burr
off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that I
can't think of at the moment.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/


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TeamCasa
 
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It seems inconceivable to me to be with out either one. Although the 12"
disk gets the lion share, the belt and spindle gets used at some point on
every project. As I work with both metal and wood, I am trying to think
what I would do if I had to give up one of them... Nope, I would just end up
buying a new one again.

Dave

wrote in message
...
I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander
(or combo), a router table, and a OSS.

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?





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Vic Baron
 
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"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?


I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a burr
off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that I
can't think of at the moment.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/


Sharpening flat pencils


  #13   Report Post  
J
 
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"Vic Baron" wrote in message
t...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?


I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a

burr
off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things that

I
can't think of at the moment.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/


Sharpening flat pencils


Isn't there some attachment for your compressor to fix flat pencils?

-j


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Vic Baron
 
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"J" wrote in message
...
"Vic Baron" wrote in message
t...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. ..

wrote in message

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?

I use the belt on every project. Good for rounding a corner, taking a

burr
off a dowel, straightening an imperfect edge, and 1000 other things

that
I
can't think of at the moment.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/


Sharpening flat pencils


Isn't there some attachment for your compressor to fix flat pencils?

-j



red faced I lost it and have to save up to get a new one.

V




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Silvan
 
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Patriarch wrote:

the tool I need to use for the new project, and 3) find the things I
_know_ are in there somewhere, before I buy another one in frustration.


I found my glue gun. It was actually there the whole time. Sometimes you
forget to look in the most obvious place for things. Like where it
actually goes.

I haven't quite been brave enough to plug it in though, seeing as how it's
covered in 324.7 million cubic tons of dust.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
  #18   Report Post  
Steve Knight
 
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if you get less then a 12" disc your wasting your money. as you can only use
maybe 3" of that disc in reality the smaller the less you can use. you want only
a 1700 rpm motor too. anything else would only work for steel. same with the
belt sander. only if you go up to a 6x89 can you handle the normal speed of most
motors.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
  #19   Report Post  
Tim Douglass
 
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On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 00:15:11 -0800, Steve Knight
wrote:

if you get less then a 12" disc your wasting your money. as you can only use
maybe 3" of that disc in reality the smaller the less you can use. you want only
a 1700 rpm motor too. anything else would only work for steel. same with the
belt sander. only if you go up to a 6x89 can you handle the normal speed of most
motors.


Twelve inch disk is what I was looking at. Most of the belts seem to
be 6x48, which at 1725 RPM gives 2500 fpm. I don't really see where
making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit
and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use.

Grizzly part no. G1276 was pretty much what I had in mind.

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com
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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"Tim Douglass" wrote in message

I don't really see where
making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit
and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use.


You can put a longer piece up to it and sand it smooth and straight. Longer
is better.




  #21   Report Post  
Tim Douglass
 
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On Sat, 05 Feb 2005 21:02:50 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Tim Douglass" wrote in message

I don't really see where
making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit
and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use.


You can put a longer piece up to it and sand it smooth and straight. Longer
is better.


Duh! sound of hand slapping forehead

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com
  #22   Report Post  
Steve Knight
 
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Twelve inch disk is what I was looking at. Most of the belts seem to
be 6x48, which at 1725 RPM gives 2500 fpm. I don't really see where
making the belt longer would do anything other than reduce heat a bit
and extend belt life, especially for light to moderate use.


heat is the issue. the longer the belt the less heat buildup so the faster you
can run it. it will last far longer too.
but if you run a smaller belt faster the heat will burn the wood and make the
belt wear far faster.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
  #23   Report Post  
Steve Knight
 
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You can put a longer piece up to it and sand it smooth and straight. Longer
is better.


it's hard to sand straight with any belt sander. only if the belts are pretty
fresh. as usual it tends to round over things. the belt well usually cut on the
ends faster then in the middle same with the edges of the belt.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.
  #24   Report Post  
Ba r r y
 
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On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, Larry Kraus
wrote:

How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion?


I leave an extra "wye" fitting at every dead end, with a short piece
of pipe and a cap duct taped to the extra hole.. Adding more duct is
easy. My system is PVC, so the fittings are cheap enough.

The extra opening also facilitates removing the occasional blockage.

Barry
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Larry Jaques
 
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On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus
spake:

wrote:

I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander
(or combo), a router table, and a OSS.

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?


Abbalooley.


Maybe the question should be:

How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion?

Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or
maybe just re-arrange the ones you have.


Buy a complete DC kit from www.Grizzly.com for $56 + s/h.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G3182
or
Buy 50' of duct through Amazon.com for $28 (+ free shipping!)
Buy Y adapters and clamps.
Cut and paste into whatever config you want.

NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and
reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my
coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl
smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible
type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is
applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================== ====



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4" stuff is not really going to cut it. I'm using 6" s&d
pipe/fittings with 6" flex.

see,
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Ducting.cfm


There are also many limits given the size of DC and piping, so I'm
taking that into consideration. Bottom line.. minimize duct lengths..
minimize bends.. minimize flex

I'm trying to have one main run straight of the DC and then wye into
it only. But it seems I'm going to need to do a 45 jog to move the
line to the perimiter of the building to keep the duct out of the work
area

|
|
/
/
|
|

Along that run, will be wye's to the TS, jointer, BS, DP, MS



On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:23:10 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus
spake:

wrote:

I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander
(or combo), a router table, and a OSS.

I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?


Abbalooley.


Maybe the question should be:

How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion?

Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or
maybe just re-arrange the ones you have.


Buy a complete DC kit from www.Grizzly.com for $56 + s/h.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G3182
or
Buy 50' of duct through Amazon.com for $28 (+ free shipping!)
Buy Y adapters and clamps.
Cut and paste into whatever config you want.

NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and
reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my
coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl
smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible
type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is
applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly.


--------------------------------------------
Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design
================================================= =====


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