4" stuff is not really going to cut it. I'm using 6" s&d
pipe/fittings with 6" flex.
see,
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Ducting.cfm
There are also many limits given the size of DC and piping, so I'm
taking that into consideration. Bottom line.. minimize duct lengths..
minimize bends.. minimize flex
I'm trying to have one main run straight of the DC and then wye into
it only. But it seems I'm going to need to do a 45 jog to move the
line to the perimiter of the building to keep the duct out of the work
area
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Along that run, will be wye's to the TS, jointer, BS, DP, MS
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:23:10 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus
spake:
wrote:
I'm working on my DC layout. A couple of tools I don't have, but
would have DC requirements are a stationary belt sander, disk sander
(or combo), a router table, and a OSS.
I got to asking myself last night, would I ever really need a
belt/disk sander? An OSS seems handy, but when would I need a
belt/disk sander?
Abbalooley.
Maybe the question should be:
How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion?
Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or
maybe just re-arrange the ones you have.
Buy a complete DC kit from www.Grizzly.com for $56 + s/h.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G3182
or
Buy 50' of duct through Amazon.com for $28 (+ free shipping!)
Buy Y adapters and clamps.
Cut and paste into whatever config you want.
NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and
reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my
coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl
smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible
type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is
applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly.
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