This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.Â* I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench.Â* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.Â* Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about.Â* I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.Â* No. not a 54'
long drawer.Â* LOL.Â* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.Â* ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me.Â* Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same.Â* Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.Â* I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.Â* I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.Â* No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.


P.S. Yes this is cross posted. On purpose, but only because they are
related groups regarding this project.

On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15. Has a large
shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice
sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice
(Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my
workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my
desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools...
and still work great.

So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that
satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 04/10/2019 21:24, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.Â* I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top
work bench.Â* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.Â* Apx 54'
long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about.Â* I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.Â* No. not a 54'
long drawer.Â* LOL.Â* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away
tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.Â* ie: Snap
rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me.Â* Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I
would like to make them all the same.Â* Right now I am thinking about
wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.Â* I have a decent
finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.Â* I also
have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.Â*
No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

Have a look at office equipment filing cabinets as they come in various
draw depths and heights. I have about 7, 4 of which fit under my bench
nicely for storing various tool categories and the other 3 about the
same height form a work storage surface and I store various items in the
drawers. I have another smaller cabinet which has drawers about 1" deep
and 10" wide which I store things like taps, dies, reamers, drills, and
many other items in. All where acquired free as they were being chucked
out and I was in the right place at the right time.

"David Billington" wrote in message ...

On 04/10/2019 21:24, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about
removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top
to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long
drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes
and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with
snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like
to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or
folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and
various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood
working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way
I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

Have a look at office equipment filing cabinets as they come in various
draw depths and heights. I have about 7, 4 of which fit under my bench
nicely for storing various tool categories and the other 3 about the same
height form a work storage surface and I store various items in the
drawers. I have another smaller cabinet which has drawers about 1" deep and
10" wide which I store things like taps, dies, reamers, drills, and many
other items in. All where acquired free as they were being chucked out and
I was in the right place at the right time.

Along those lines I used to work about 10 miles from the State of Maryland
surplus store and got sent up there once to get some used filing cabinets
for our offices. They had many, many filing cabinets for sale at cheap
prices, both 2 and 4 drawer models. I just had to pick through them looking
for the nicest ones, but I didn't have to find matching units. Some
universities also have surplus stores if you live near a large campus.
Maybe alternate 2 or 3 regular drawer units that you build with 1 or 2
filing cabinets for deep drawers, then more regular drawers. Throw in a
full height knee hole every so often for roll-around equipment or a
workstation.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames

On Friday, October 4, 2019 at 1:24:33 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:

... I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

My preference would be for the inexpensive 'shoebox' plastic bins, on
shelves, but if you want drawers: figure on three different sizes.
Deep 'uns for power tools, shallow 'uns for watch-repair goods, and
something inbetween.

Then think if you can substitute plastic-drawer-set things for the small size,
and muse on the appropriate depth of drawers for assorted fasteners...

Anyhow, that's why I haven't wanted to make a big drawer cabinet: it's
too easy to buy one that doesn't quite fit, or adapt the mass-produced
options. And, impossible to imagine a system that works much better.

Maybe your imagination is better than mine.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.
Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.

The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled
mounting holes.

https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Vidma...05/bn_59489414

On 04/10/2019 23:01, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.
Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.
I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.

Might be like these which I used recently on a sliding table for cutting
glass
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Heav...-of-2/p/103525
.. They seem to be the same as those in the 19" rack unit I converted
into a drink cabinet, kept the slides, replaced the metal shelves with
laminated glass.



The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled
mounting holes.

https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Vidma...05/bn_59489414

On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

I have made my drawers out of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. On the sides
I cut a 1/4 inch dado a 1/4" in from the edge, the front and back dado
cut leaving a 1/4" x 1/4" tongue. Sides and backs get a 1/4" dado a
1/4" in from the bottom edge, the bottom gets wait for it a 1/4"
removed all around. Glue and nail together, make a stronger bottom
than just 1/4" ply.

On 10/4/2019 4:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.Â* I'm seriously thinking about
removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing
them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench.
Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.Â* Apx 54' long. Ok, that
part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about.Â* I want drawers from the bench top
to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.Â* No. not a 54' long
drawer.Â* LOL.Â* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes
and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.Â* ie: Snap rings with snap
ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me.Â* Strength and speed of assembly probably
rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all
drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make
them all the same.Â* Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or
folded/welded sheet metal drawers.Â* I have a decent finger brake and
various metal cutting processes in my shop.Â* I also have all the wood
working tools I could need for making wood drawers.Â* No matter which way I
go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I
like, or way to expensive.

For 54' of drawers, I'd take neither of the routes you named. I'd go
straight to an industrial source of pre-fabricated drawers and buy what I
need and then adapt the framework of the bench to suit. Maybe in the case
of some that need to be extra strong I might do some reinforcement but no
more than absolutely necessary. Metal drawer boxes with decent slides are
already plenty strong for most uses.

On Friday, October 4, 2019 at 4:24:33 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

"I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers."

Pocket hole jig?

"Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance...

Buy sheet goods in the material of your choice, build as many carcasses as
you want, slap together a bunch of drawer boxes and mount on heavy-duty, full
extension slides. You could even pocket hole some 1/2" ply for really strong
bottoms.

"Appearance is a non issue for me."

If that's true, then you don't even need drawer fronts, although they would
serve to keep dust and debris out or the drawers and from mucking up the
slides.

"with cost coming in at number three."

Custom fit, no "adapting" of something that already exists and you pick the
price point based on material choice.

"John McGaw" wrote in message
...
On 10/4/2019 4:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.
Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

For 54' of drawers, I'd take neither of the routes you named. I'd go
straight to an industrial source of pre-fabricated drawers and buy
what I need and then adapt the framework of the bench to suit. Maybe
in the case of some that need to be extra strong I might do some
reinforcement but no more than absolutely necessary. Metal drawer
boxes with decent slides are already plenty strong for most uses.

In the 1980's I rearranged my shop and bought some cheap yard sale
painted wooden chests of drawers to cut down for temporary tool and
pipe fitting storage under a bench, until I found something better.
The knobs broke and needed stronger replacements but the drawers stood
up to heavy loads very well.

Leon Fisk on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 16:38:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15.

Mine is a solid core door. Actually, I have two, free for the
hauling.
And two more which are top and bottom half of a "Dutch door"
configuration.
Now if I just had the space to deploy all of them.

Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice
sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice
(Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my
workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my
desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools...
and still work great.

Neat.
So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that
satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items.

I've several sizes of file cabinets. Two of the two drawer size
work well to hold "Yet Another Door" bench top. That one is in the
back serving as a shelf for storage.
--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 18:01:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.

The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled
mounting holes.

Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
angle iron, just setting there ...

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

On Sat, 05 Oct 2019 09:17:32 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote:

snip
Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
angle iron, just setting there ...

Bed frame can be some really nasty stuff to cut and drill. Supposedly
the dregs of metal mixtures. You may drill a hole or two just fine and
then another in the same piece is hard enough to ruin the drill bit...

So plan on it being a hassle and maybe you'll get lucky

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019
18:01:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the
bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for
electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.

The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If
you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the
pre-drilled
mounting holes.

Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
angle iron, just setting there ...

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone."

Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon
content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with.

http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-...-train-tracks/

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019
18:01:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the
bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves
cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for
electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.

The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If
you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the
pre-drilled
mounting holes.

Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
angle iron, just setting there ...

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels
alone."

Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon
content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with.

http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-...-train-tracks/


https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-gra...uses-and-tips/

Yesterday I read that Stephenson's original track gage was 4' 8", he
had to add 1/2" later to the tracks but not the wheels to make them
run more smoothly.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019
18:01:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the
bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.

I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus
roller
slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves
cut
from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for
electronic
equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum
analyzer
weighs 60 lbs.

The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If
you
find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the
pre-drilled
mounting holes.

Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that
angle iron, just setting there ...

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels
alone."

Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon
content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with.

http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-...-train-tracks/


https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-gra...uses-and-tips/

Yesterday I read that Stephenson's original track gage was 4' 8", he
had to add 1/2" later to the tracks but not the wheels to make them
run more smoothly.


Another bit of useless RR trivia: the steam locomotive was an American
invention.
https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/onli...mtown/shs2.htm

However, as with Fitch's pioneering steam rowboat, history instead
remembers the men who made crude earlier inventions practical,
Stephenson for the locomotive and Fulton for the steamboat.

It seems the Founding Fathers knew about submarines (Bushnell), steam
locos, high capacity assault rifles (Girandoni) and air mail.
Washington personally handed the first US airmail letter to the
balloon pilot.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2019 09:17:32 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Leon Fisk on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 16:38:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15.

Mine is a solid core door. Actually, I have two, free for the
hauling.
And two more which are top and bottom half of a "Dutch door"
configuration.
Now if I just had the space to deploy all of them.

Two of mine are solid core doors. The one I use for assembly has a
3/4" sheet of melamine as a "dress" top. The benches are wrapped in a
1x4" ash band, holding the finished top in place (glued to the door,
not the "dress" top. The other, for cutting (track saw, usually) has
a loose MDF top that sits 1/4" proud of the banding. The "dress" tops
of both are loose, so they can be replaced easily.

Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice
sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice
(Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my
workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my
desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools...
and still work great.

Neat.
So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that
satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items.

I've several sizes of file cabinets. Two of the two drawer size
work well to hold "Yet Another Door" bench top. That one is in the
back serving as a shelf for storage.

I've done that for my computer desk, in the past. The one I have now
just has hair pin legs. I wish I could find a decent used office
furniture store. All of the used office furniture I've seen lately is
incredibly expensive. The crap the office stores sells would never
hold up in a shop.

On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.Â* I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench.Â* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.Â* Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about.Â* I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.Â* No. not a 54'
long drawer.Â* LOL.Â* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.Â* ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me.Â* Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same.Â* Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.Â* I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.Â* I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.Â* No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.


Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs fast,
cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also I
indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the same). I
guess appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin
with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of consideration. Thanks
everybody.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx
54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.


Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs
fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also
I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the
same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made
out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of
consideration. Thanks everybody.

If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some
myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The
second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above
pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet
metal bins for the lighter stuff.

On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 07:29:34 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin
with.

I've found that as I've become older and cheaper that appearance is
highly over rated ;-)

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 10/7/2019 12:17 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 07:29:34 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin
with.

I've found that as I've become older and cheaper that appearance is
highly over rated ;-)





Well I was thinking if I went with wood I'd just make the boxes, and not
bother with fancy drawer faces, or if I went with metal I'd just rivet
the drawer pulls to the boxes.

I still envisioned them as looking like they were made the same and
being being roughly even down the whole length of the bench.

On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx
54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.


Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs
fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also
I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the
same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made
out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of
consideration. Thanks everybody.

If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some
myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The
second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above
pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet
metal bins for the lighter stuff.



I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as
well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase
the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might
as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have
to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.


I would have suggested making plywood drawers with slides and perhaps
faces of red oak, which I spent the summer sawing into planks and
beams for future projects. However this morning I saw a 3' red oak
stair tread in a hardware store priced at $35, and larger ones up to
$48.

On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 18:23:40 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might
as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have
to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.


I would have suggested making plywood drawers with slides and perhaps
faces of red oak, which I spent the summer sawing into planks and
beams for future projects. However this morning I saw a 3' red oak
stair tread in a hardware store priced at $35, and larger ones up to
$48.

That's ludicrous.

The local hardwood yard has 5/4 red oak for 4.50 a board foot.

On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 14:27:14 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote:

snip
Well I was thinking if I went with wood I'd just make the boxes, and not
bother with fancy drawer faces, or if I went with metal I'd just rivet
the drawer pulls to the boxes.

I still envisioned them as looking like they were made the same and
being being roughly even down the whole length of the bench.

For what you want to do I would try and find some used office file
cabinets and/or desks that would work. Put them in place, rearrange
them to taste and then make your bench over the top. Fill in the
remainder as you find more that will work. But I've become super frugal
and try not to be in a hurry to get anything like that done. If you need
or want things NOW you pay a steep price (shrug).

Here is a very similar to mine in appearance office desk:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Steel...k/312249112689

Not practical to drive after though

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI

On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.Â* I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench.Â* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.Â* Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about.Â* I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.Â* No. not a 54'
long drawer.Â* LOL.Â* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.Â* ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me.Â* Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same.Â* Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.Â* I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.Â* I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.Â* No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.


Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond. Now to find a good source for a gazillion 300lb
and a few 500lb drawer slides. I've made a few 3/4 ply drawers already
in my existing benches, and they are extremely strong. The nice thing
is if time runs short I can just make them in batches.

Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.

I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
to grab them.

I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
making a hundred of them sure does.

Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.

On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole screws.

"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long,
but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole
screws.

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.

"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long,
but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole
screws.

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the router in
this case and keep the material stationary.
[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

On 10/10/2019 3:13 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long,
but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole
screws.

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.



If only my CNC router were a little bigger. Ok, about ten times bigger.
LOL.

On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.

I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
to grab them.

I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw dust gets in
the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.

1/4€� ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.

On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 5:07:26 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket hole screws.

A simple jig would solve the shifting force issue. Just a "right angled slot" screwed to a
plywood base all you'd need to hold the drawer side in place as you screw. Kind of like
a raised dado in the shape of a drawer.

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about
5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around
90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that
long,
but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has
the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket
hole
screws.

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
could rough out and a jointer or thickness planer could finish, but a
table saw is the better choice. The router would cut the edge detail
separately for each piece, guided by the fixture clamped to the table.

My father and I made a batch of t&g flooring on his Shopsmith, set up
like a horizontal-shaft table router. The saw fence was the width
guide and we clamped on scrap wood blocks to hold the flooring strips
against the table, so they only needed to be pushed through by the
next strip. I used the Shopsmith the same way with a saw blade to cut
the edge tongues and grooves in cabinet panel doors.

On 10/10/2019 12:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.

I've no experience with making drawers for holding hundreds of lbs. of
motors and such, but, I absolutely would not simply use Titebond and
pocket screws with plywood. Pocket screws are not appropriate, imo, for
any drawer and gluing plywood edge grain to face grain is also a no no
in my book, especially if strength is an issue.

Personally, I wouldn't even use plywood, I'd use 1x material with at a
bare minimum of locking rabbited drawer joints and glue. No screws
needed but could clamp with nail gun for speed while glue dries. This
would be very fast for multiple drawers of a standard size on just your
table saw, and way stronger than pocket screws, glue and plywood.

Also it's worth noting that drawers do not need to be the full height of
the drawer opening. The drawers mainly just need to keep the items from
rolling off the drawer. You can save a lot of material with 100 drawers
that way. Use plywood for the bottoms.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.