"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

When my dad set up his garage, he came a cross some used approx,
12"W x 18"D x 6"H fiberglas trays*. He probably got then for nothing.
He built a wooden frame about bench height and about 15ft along the
wall, it was 4 maybe 5 drawers tall and
guessing, 12 across. The trays were removable.
The trays looked something like this, although not the same size or
material.
https://www.coleparmer.com/p/cole-pa...trays-ps/65494


* I think they came from an animal research facility and they were used
as mice cages. But that's educated but still a bit of speculation.

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?


How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?


How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

Answering a question with a question?

Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say 12" x 18".
Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12" thick.
(Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the number of
sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).

Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation patterns
for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.

Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical surface such that the
end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout away. Offset the
jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the matching joint.
[*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you can add
as you move the router from slot to slot.

Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and clamp.

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?


How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

Answering a question with a question?

Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say
12" x 18".
Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12"
thick.
(Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the
number of
sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).

Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation
patterns
for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.

Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface such that the
end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away. Offset the
jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the
matching joint.

[*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you
can add
as you move the router from slot to slot.

Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

On 10/11/2019 4:49 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...

Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?


How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

Answering a question with a question?

Simple. You have 16 3/4" thick baltic birch plywood pieces, say
12" x 18".
Stack them one atop the next; now you have a stack of plywood 12"
thick.
(Assumption: The drawers are 18" square with 12" high sides; the
number of
sides in the stack must be congruent to zero modulo four).

Split the stack in half (because you need two different crenellation
patterns
for them to join correctly). Now you have two stacks 6" thick.

Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface such that the
end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away. Offset the
jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to cut the
matching joint.

[*] The most basic being a simple fence and some spacer blocks you
can add
as you move the router from slot to slot.

Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.


I once ran a 15 HP pin router that could eat wood very fast.
It took that monster at least a minute to come up to speed IIRC.

On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote ...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.

I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move
the router in this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical surface
such that the end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout away.
Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other stack to
cut the matching joint.
....
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.

--
jiw

"James Waldby" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote ...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.

I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
move
the router in this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface
such that the end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away.
Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
stack to
cut the matching joint.
...
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.

--
jiw

Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
clamps?

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"James Waldby" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote ...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.

I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
move
the router in this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface
such that the end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away.
Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
stack to
cut the matching joint.
...
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.

--
jiw

Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
clamps?

I think you have a very different idea of how this is done from that
of the person proposing it. There's no need to "avoid the clamps",
you just place them far enough from the edge that they don't interfere
with the operation.

And the purpose is to minimize the setup time. You have a hundred
pieces to cut, clamp them together, set up for the cut, cut. Not
"take a piece, set up, cut, repeat" a hundred times.

J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"James Waldby" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote ...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.

I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
move
the router in this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface
such that the end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away.
Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
stack to
cut the matching joint.
...
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.

--
jiw

Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
clamps?

I think you have a very different idea of how this is done from that
of the person proposing it.

I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift & cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.


And the purpose is to minimize the setup time. You have a hundred
pieces to cut, clamp them together, set up for the cut, cut. Not
"take a piece, set up, cut, repeat" a hundred times.

Indeed.

On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, October 10, 2019
at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.

I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
to grab them.

I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw
dust gets in
the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.

1/4€� ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.


Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although
most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I
could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time.

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
..
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.

Can you post a description of it?

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"James Waldby" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Oct 2019 17:49:04 -0400, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote ...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote...
Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing
easier.

I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*]
plywood pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to
move
the router in this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.

I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my
sawmill)

How on earth do you cut box joints with a bandsaw?

How do you rout a 9" thick stack?

[re 2 stacks of 8 ea. 3/4" pieces)]:
Set the stack on end. Clamp the stack to prevent the boards from
shifting.
Clamp it vertically in the face vise (or clamp it to a vertical
surface
such that the end you're routing is horizontal).

Place your homemade box-joint jig[*] over the end, clamp and rout
away.
Offset the jig by the width of one crenellation for the other
stack to
cut the matching joint.
...
Voila, one now has the sides for four drawers. Glue, assemble
and
clamp.

You must have a very nice router if you can cut the edges of a 6"
thick stack without chatter or deflection.

Stack thickness makes no difference -- router bit stickout is just
over 3/4", regardless of thickness.

--
jiw

Then what's the point of stacking the boards, and having to avoid the
clamps?

Change "stacking" to "standing". (||||||||) Square them up and securely
clamp them together. Now you can consider them one thick board and move
them over your router bit or stacked dado blade as a unit and rather than
notching one board at a time - notch several at a time with one pass over
the cutter.
--
Jerry O.

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
..
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.

Can you post a description of it?

Here is the idea
..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT05FxUbMto

There is no reason that you couldn't cut several boards at once - stack them
up and clamp them together.
--
Jerry O.

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
..
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.

Can you post a description of it?

Another good video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NutwD7B6tmE
--
Jerry O.

"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
..
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.

Can you post a description of it?


https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/box-joint-basics

On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
..
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.

Can you post a description of it?

First off, the objective is to make box joints. To be clear on the
definition, this is a box joint:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_joint

Here's a nice howto on making a jig for a handheld router:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsgy6d4365k

He doesn't show it with the pieces stacked, but the principle is
fairly straightforward. Same technique but clamp together all the
pieces that get the same cut and do them at once.

On 10/12/2019 4:00 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:50:08 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
J. Clarke writes:
On Sat, 12 Oct 2019 06:42:47 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
..
I suspect he's not familiar with box joints or the normal shift &
cut
methods used by off-the-shelf (or typical home-made) box joint jigs.

Can you post a description of it?

First off, the objective is to make box joints. To be clear on the
definition, this is a box joint:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Box_joint

Here's a nice howto on making a jig for a handheld router:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsgy6d4365k

He doesn't show it with the pieces stacked, but the principle is
fairly straightforward. Same technique but clamp together all the
pieces that get the same cut and do them at once.


The objective is to make drawers strong enough, fast, and cost
effective. In that order of importance.

Board lumber (other than general rough construction lumber) is expensive
locally so it could be self eliminating over ply. There are no "real"
lumber yards left around here. Just construction lumber yards who, "can
get that for you, but it will be expensive." The last guy with tons of
good stuff actually was across the street from my old office. About the
same time I went over to see him about some stuff for a big job he
retired and liquidated everything. He didn't have anything I needed
left. Just my luck. LOL.

Not sure who made the comment about gluing end grain on plywood, but
um... only half of the end is end grain.

One thing I noticed is a lot of the guys (on YouTube anyway) doing
pocket joinery don't seem to be using glue. When I have glued and
screwed ply in the past (not pocket joinery) I used lots of glue. The
combination is pretty darn strong and doesn't seem to shift, tweak or
flex much. Ply is also pretty stable.

By the way I do know what a box joint is, and I got the message about
stacking the first time. Jim is more of a metal worker than a wood
worker like myself. You are more likely to see him hanging around R.C.M
than R.W

On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 2:05:44 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, October 10, 2019
at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old..
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.

I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
to grab them.

I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw
dust gets in
the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.

1/4€� ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.


Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although
most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I
could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time.

Cutting time saved but replaced by sanding time.

The last time I had plywood cut down at a big box store I could have used
the edge splinters as tooth picks.

On 10/12/2019 8:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 2:05:44 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, October 10, 2019
at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the
faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of
pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old.
The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do.

I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the
process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false
fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place
to grab them.

I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw
dust gets in
the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too.

1/4€� ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit.


Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although
most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I
could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time.

Cutting time saved but replaced by sanding time.

The last time I had plywood cut down at a big box store I could have used
the edge splinters as tooth picks.



Yeah, I think its a function of who is running the saw. Last time I was
there the young man on the panel saw was conscientious, fed slow, and
took care to give us pretty good cuts. There was an older guy who came
by and told him he wanted some help doing something. That guy stood
around, wandered away, and wandered back impatiently and then yelled at
me for leaning on their cross cut saw. I was leaning on the feed table
several feet away from the saw. If that guy is the one available to cut
lumber I'll take my boards home to break down. LOL. He would do a
****ty fast job just to be spiteful over the fact that he had to work at
all.

On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and
replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work
bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long.
Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench
top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54'
long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool
boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings
with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three.
Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would
like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood
drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger
brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all
the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter
which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but
they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that
I like, or way to expensive.

Wood will be cheaper and easier. Metal will last forever.

__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 14:36:20 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote:

On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop
and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate
top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx
54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking.

Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the
bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No.
not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my
roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related
parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc...

Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly
probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number
three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but
I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking
about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a
decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.
I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood
drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the
same way.

I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench,
but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer
configurations that I like, or way to expensive.


Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast,
cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs
fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also
I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the
same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made
out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of
consideration. Thanks everybody.

If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some
myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The
second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above
pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet
metal bins for the lighter stuff.



I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as
well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase
the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL.

Stanley-Vidmar and Lista can be had if you are diligent about
searching for it. I picked up some last year..(3) 5' drawer cabinets
for $500 total. Ive got em wedged into the maint shop.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TVfPeexd3fBzN7Wh7


That being said..at home..I still use the old IBM punch card filing
cabinets for storing "stuff". They can be cut in half and wedged under
benches..shrug.

I think I have 9 of them now...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ACVLvHNVwKKMZsoT9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MWqrCWLJzumgANrX7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSHXQMkWdouAsxAQA

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UEiytz6JZacyUVwU7

https://goo.gl/photos/u2zdG8Yy5z1mSQpW9



Gunner
__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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On Thu, 10 Oct 2019 15:43:03 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket
screws with Titebond.

Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger.

Ayup.
__

"Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is.

No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public.

Which is a very good thing."

Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan.


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