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#1
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking
about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. |
#2
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.* I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench.* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.* Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about.* I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.* No. not a 54' long drawer.* LOL.* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.* ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me.* Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same.* Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.* I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.* I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.* No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. P.S. Yes this is cross posted. On purpose, but only because they are related groups regarding this project. |
#3
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15. Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice (Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools... and still work great. So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#4
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
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Leon Fisk on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 16:38:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700 Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15. Mine is a solid core door. Actually, I have two, free for the hauling. And two more which are top and bottom half of a "Dutch door" configuration. Now if I just had the space to deploy all of them. Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice (Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools... and still work great. Neat. So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items. I've several sizes of file cabinets. Two of the two drawer size work well to hold "Yet Another Door" bench top. That one is in the back serving as a shelf for storage. -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone." |
#5
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
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On Sat, 05 Oct 2019 09:17:32 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote: Leon Fisk on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 16:38:54 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700 Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. My "workbench" is a thrift store office desk. Cost me ~$15. Mine is a solid core door. Actually, I have two, free for the hauling. And two more which are top and bottom half of a "Dutch door" configuration. Now if I just had the space to deploy all of them. Two of mine are solid core doors. The one I use for assembly has a 3/4" sheet of melamine as a "dress" top. The benches are wrapped in a 1x4" ash band, holding the finished top in place (glued to the door, not the "dress" top. The other, for cutting (track saw, usually) has a loose MDF top that sits 1/4" proud of the banding. The "dress" tops of both are loose, so they can be replaced easily. Has a large shallow drawer above my legs and over the right side drawers. Two nice sized drawers on the right and two on the left. At work I had a nice (Haworth) two drawer filing cabinet which was the same height as my workbench. These all have heavy duty roller slides. Bottom drawers in my desk have drill motors, angle grinders, socket sets, impact tools... and still work great. Neat. So... I would watch for used office furniture on the cheap that satisfies your bench height. Lateral files could work for larger items. I've several sizes of file cabinets. Two of the two drawer size work well to hold "Yet Another Door" bench top. That one is in the back serving as a shelf for storage. I've done that for my computer desk, in the past. The one I have now just has hair pin legs. I wish I could find a decent used office furniture store. All of the used office furniture I've seen lately is incredibly expensive. The crap the office stores sells would never hold up in a shop. |
#6
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking
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When my dad set up his garage, he came a cross some used approx,
12"W x 18"D x 6"H fiberglas trays*. He probably got then for nothing. He built a wooden frame about bench height and about 15ft along the wall, it was 4 maybe 5 drawers tall and guessing, 12 across. The trays were removable. The trays looked something like this, although not the same size or material. https://www.coleparmer.com/p/cole-pa...trays-ps/65494 * I think they came from an animal research facility and they were used as mice cages. But that's educated but still a bit of speculation. |
#7
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 04/10/2019 21:24, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.* I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench.* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.* Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about.* I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.* No. not a 54' long drawer.* LOL.* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.* ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me.* Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same.* Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.* I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.* I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.* No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Have a look at office equipment filing cabinets as they come in various draw depths and heights. I have about 7, 4 of which fit under my bench nicely for storing various tool categories and the other 3 about the same height form a work storage surface and I store various items in the drawers. I have another smaller cabinet which has drawers about 1" deep and 10" wide which I store things like taps, dies, reamers, drills, and many other items in. All where acquired free as they were being chucked out and I was in the right place at the right time. |
#8
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"David Billington" wrote in message ...
On 04/10/2019 21:24, Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Have a look at office equipment filing cabinets as they come in various draw depths and heights. I have about 7, 4 of which fit under my bench nicely for storing various tool categories and the other 3 about the same height form a work storage surface and I store various items in the drawers. I have another smaller cabinet which has drawers about 1" deep and 10" wide which I store things like taps, dies, reamers, drills, and many other items in. All where acquired free as they were being chucked out and I was in the right place at the right time. Along those lines I used to work about 10 miles from the State of Maryland surplus store and got sent up there once to get some used filing cabinets for our offices. They had many, many filing cabinets for sale at cheap prices, both 2 and 4 drawer models. I just had to pick through them looking for the nicest ones, but I didn't have to find matching units. Some universities also have surplus stores if you live near a large campus. Maybe alternate 2 or 3 regular drawer units that you build with 1 or 2 filing cabinets for deep drawers, then more regular drawers. Throw in a full height knee hole every so often for roll-around equipment or a workstation. -- Regards, Carl Ijames |
#9
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Posted to rec.woodworking
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On Friday, October 4, 2019 at 1:24:33 PM UTC-7, Bob La Londe wrote:
... I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... My preference would be for the inexpensive 'shoebox' plastic bins, on shelves, but if you want drawers: figure on three different sizes. Deep 'uns for power tools, shallow 'uns for watch-repair goods, and something inbetween. Then think if you can substitute plastic-drawer-set things for the small size, and muse on the appropriate depth of drawers for assorted fasteners... Anyhow, that's why I haven't wanted to make a big drawer cabinet: it's too easy to buy one that doesn't quite fit, or adapt the mass-produced options. And, impossible to imagine a system that works much better. Maybe your imagination is better than mine. |
#10
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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![]() "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer weighs 60 lbs. The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled mounting holes. https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Vidma...05/bn_59489414 |
#11
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 04/10/2019 23:01, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer weighs 60 lbs. Might be like these which I used recently on a sliding table for cutting glass https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Heav...-of-2/p/103525 .. They seem to be the same as those in the 19" rack unit I converted into a drink cabinet, kept the slides, replaced the metal shelves with laminated glass. The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled mounting holes. https://www.ebay.com/b/Stanley-Vidma...05/bn_59489414 |
#12
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 18:01:54 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer weighs 60 lbs. The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled mounting holes. Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that angle iron, just setting there ... -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone." |
#13
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On Sat, 05 Oct 2019 09:17:32 -0700
pyotr filipivich wrote: snip Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that angle iron, just setting there ... Bed frame can be some really nasty stuff to cut and drill. Supposedly the dregs of metal mixtures. You may drill a hole or two just fine and then another in the same piece is hard enough to ruin the drill bit... So plan on it being a hassle and maybe you'll get lucky ![]() -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#14
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"pyotr filipivich" wrote in message
... "Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 18:01:54 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer weighs 60 lbs. The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled mounting holes. Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that angle iron, just setting there ... -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone." Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with. http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-...-train-tracks/ |
#15
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
... "pyotr filipivich" wrote in message ... "Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 18:01:54 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer weighs 60 lbs. The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled mounting holes. Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that angle iron, just setting there ... -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone." Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with. http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-...-train-tracks/ https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-gra...uses-and-tips/ Yesterday I read that Stephenson's original track gage was 4' 8", he had to add 1/2" later to the tracks but not the wheels to make them run more smoothly. |
#16
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
... "Jim Wilkins" wrote in message ... "pyotr filipivich" wrote in message ... "Jim Wilkins" on Fri, 4 Oct 2019 18:01:54 -0400 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following: I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I built a rolling storage rack for heavy stuff using surplus roller slides for 19" relay racks, with angle iron uprights and shelves cut from exterior-wall steel stud remnants. The slides are for electronic equipment that could be quite heavy; my 1970's RF spectrum analyzer weighs 60 lbs. The shelves can be moved by drilling new holes in the uprights. If you find surplus relay racks and cut them down you can use the pre-drilled mounting holes. Hmmm, I have this collection of Hollywood bed frames. All that angle iron, just setting there ... -- pyotr filipivich "With Age comes Wisdom. Although far too often, Age travels alone." Bed frames may be recycled railroad rails, with a higher carbon content that makes them stronger but tricky to work with. http://evolution.skf.com/us/the-art-...-train-tracks/ https://makeitfrommetal.com/what-gra...uses-and-tips/ Yesterday I read that Stephenson's original track gage was 4' 8", he had to add 1/2" later to the tracks but not the wheels to make them run more smoothly. Another bit of useless RR trivia: the steam locomotive was an American invention. https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/onli...mtown/shs2.htm However, as with Fitch's pioneering steam rowboat, history instead remembers the men who made crude earlier inventions practical, Stephenson for the locomotive and Fulton for the steamboat. It seems the Founding Fathers knew about submarines (Bushnell), steam locos, high capacity assault rifles (Girandoni) and air mail. Washington personally handed the first US airmail letter to the balloon pilot. |
#17
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. I have made my drawers out of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. On the sides I cut a 1/4 inch dado a 1/4" in from the edge, the front and back dado cut leaving a 1/4" x 1/4" tongue. Sides and backs get a 1/4" dado a 1/4" in from the bottom edge, the bottom gets wait for it a 1/4" removed all around. Glue and nail together, make a stronger bottom than just 1/4" ply. |
#18
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 10/4/2019 4:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.* I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.* Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about.* I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.* No. not a 54' long drawer.* LOL.* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.* ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me.* Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same.* Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.* I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.* I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.* No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. For 54' of drawers, I'd take neither of the routes you named. I'd go straight to an industrial source of pre-fabricated drawers and buy what I need and then adapt the framework of the bench to suit. Maybe in the case of some that need to be extra strong I might do some reinforcement but no more than absolutely necessary. Metal drawer boxes with decent slides are already plenty strong for most uses. |
#19
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"John McGaw" wrote in message
... On 10/4/2019 4:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. For 54' of drawers, I'd take neither of the routes you named. I'd go straight to an industrial source of pre-fabricated drawers and buy what I need and then adapt the framework of the bench to suit. Maybe in the case of some that need to be extra strong I might do some reinforcement but no more than absolutely necessary. Metal drawer boxes with decent slides are already plenty strong for most uses. In the 1980's I rearranged my shop and bought some cheap yard sale painted wooden chests of drawers to cut down for temporary tool and pipe fitting storage under a bench, until I found something better. The knobs broke and needed stronger replacements but the drawers stood up to heavy loads very well. |
#20
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On Friday, October 4, 2019 at 4:24:33 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. "I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers." Pocket hole jig? "Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance... Buy sheet goods in the material of your choice, build as many carcasses as you want, slap together a bunch of drawer boxes and mount on heavy-duty, full extension slides. You could even pocket hole some 1/2" ply for really strong bottoms. "Appearance is a non issue for me." If that's true, then you don't even need drawer fronts, although they would serve to keep dust and debris out or the drawers and from mucking up the slides. "with cost coming in at number three." Custom fit, no "adapting" of something that already exists and you pick the price point based on material choice. |
#21
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.* I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench.* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.* Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about.* I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.* No. not a 54' long drawer.* LOL.* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.* ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me.* Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same.* Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.* I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.* I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.* No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast, cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of consideration. Thanks everybody. |
#22
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
... On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast, cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of consideration. Thanks everybody. If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet metal bins for the lighter stuff. |
#23
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast, cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of consideration. Thanks everybody. If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet metal bins for the lighter stuff. I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL. |
#24
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
... On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote: ... I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL. I would have suggested making plywood drawers with slides and perhaps faces of red oak, which I spent the summer sawing into planks and beams for future projects. However this morning I saw a 3' red oak stair tread in a hardware store priced at $35, and larger ones up to $48. |
#25
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 18:23:40 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote: "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote: ... I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL. I would have suggested making plywood drawers with slides and perhaps faces of red oak, which I spent the summer sawing into planks and beams for future projects. However this morning I saw a 3' red oak stair tread in a hardware store priced at $35, and larger ones up to $48. That's ludicrous. The local hardwood yard has 5/4 red oak for 4.50 a board foot. |
#26
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 14:36:20 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote: On 10/7/2019 9:34 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote: "Bob La Londe" wrote in message ... On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Many of the answers are certainly fast and cheap. Some may be fast, cheap, and strong, but they won't be made hte same. Of the specs fast, cheap, and strong cheap was 3rd in level of importance. Also I indicated that I wanted them to all be made the same (look the same). I guess appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin with. There are certainly a few ideas worthy of consideration. Thanks everybody. If I had a better answer I would have posted it, and maybe bought some myself since my Sears-flavored tool cabinets need repair. The second-hand tool store that rates cheap and customer-proof well above pretty uses Vidmars for the heavy cutting tools and racks of sheet metal bins for the lighter stuff. I see MSC stocks Vidmar. Even with my discount... Yee-ouch! Might as well buy Mac or snap-On. LOL. Well maybe not. You don't have to chase the MSC truck for 6 months if you have a bad item. LOL. Stanley-Vidmar and Lista can be had if you are diligent about searching for it. I picked up some last year..(3) 5' drawer cabinets for $500 total. Ive got em wedged into the maint shop. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TVfPeexd3fBzN7Wh7 That being said..at home..I still use the old IBM punch card filing cabinets for storing "stuff". They can be cut in half and wedged under benches..shrug. I think I have 9 of them now... https://photos.app.goo.gl/ACVLvHNVwKKMZsoT9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/MWqrCWLJzumgANrX7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSHXQMkWdouAsxAQA https://photos.app.goo.gl/UEiytz6JZacyUVwU7 https://goo.gl/photos/u2zdG8Yy5z1mSQpW9 Gunner __ "Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is. No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public. Which is a very good thing." Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#27
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 07:29:34 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote: snip appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin with. I've found that as I've become older and cheaper that appearance is highly over rated ;-) -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#28
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On 10/7/2019 12:17 PM, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 07:29:34 -0700 Bob La Londe wrote: snip appearance is slightly more important than I made out to begin with. I've found that as I've become older and cheaper that appearance is highly over rated ;-) Well I was thinking if I went with wood I'd just make the boxes, and not bother with fancy drawer faces, or if I went with metal I'd just rivet the drawer pulls to the boxes. I still envisioned them as looking like they were made the same and being being roughly even down the whole length of the bench. |
#29
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On Mon, 7 Oct 2019 14:27:14 -0700
Bob La Londe wrote: snip Well I was thinking if I went with wood I'd just make the boxes, and not bother with fancy drawer faces, or if I went with metal I'd just rivet the drawer pulls to the boxes. I still envisioned them as looking like they were made the same and being being roughly even down the whole length of the bench. For what you want to do I would try and find some used office file cabinets and/or desks that would work. Put them in place, rearrange them to taste and then make your bench over the top. Fill in the remainder as you find more that will work. But I've become super frugal and try not to be in a hurry to get anything like that done. If you need or want things NOW you pay a steep price (shrug). Here is a very similar to mine in appearance office desk: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Steel...k/312249112689 Not practical to drive after though ![]() -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI |
#30
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
This might be metalworking or wood working.* I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench.* Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint.* Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about.* I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end.* No. not a 54' long drawer.* LOL.* Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts.* ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me.* Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same.* Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers.* I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop.* I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers.* No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Now to find a good source for a gazillion 300lb and a few 500lb drawer slides. I've made a few 3/4 ply drawers already in my existing benches, and they are extremely strong. The nice thing is if time runs short I can just make them in batches. |
#31
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Bob La Londe writes:
On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger. |
#32
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes: On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger. Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old. The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do. I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place to grab them. |
#33
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Posted to rec.woodworking,rec.crafts.metalworking,sci.engr.joining.welding
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![]() I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6 drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100 drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but making a hundred of them sure does. |
#34
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Bob La Londe writes:
I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about 5-6 drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around 90-100 drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that long, but making a hundred of them sure does. If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router; stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and route away. May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing. |
#35
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On Thursday, October 10, 2019 at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote: Bob La Londe writes: On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger. Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old. The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do. I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place to grab them. I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw dust gets in the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too. 1/4 ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit. |
#36
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On 10/11/2019 3:59 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Thursday, October 10, 2019
at 12:13:45 PM UTC-4, Bob La Londe wrote: On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote: Bob La Londe writes: On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger. Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old. The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do. I'm not a wood worker by trade or hobby, I don't get excited by the process, and I don't care about pretty. I doubt I'll even put false fronts on them. Probably just hack a dip in the front so I have a place to grab them. I've got a couple of notched front drawers with exposed slides. Saw dust gets in the drawers and on the slides. I assume metal dust would too. 1/4 ply fronts is all you'd need to seal them up a bit. Metal dust and chips would be worse probably. Good point. Although most of the metal chips are made in a different room of the shop. I could even have them sliced up at the box store to save myself some time. |
#37
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On 10/10/2019 12:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/10/2019 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote: Bob La Londe writes: On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger. Well, box joints are certainly stronger. I agree, but they fail in the faster department. I have glued and screwed drawers with hundreds of pounds of bolts, motors, etc in them now. They are several years old. The slides will fail from overloading before the drawers do. I've no experience with making drawers for holding hundreds of lbs. of motors and such, but, I absolutely would not simply use Titebond and pocket screws with plywood. Pocket screws are not appropriate, imo, for any drawer and gluing plywood edge grain to face grain is also a no no in my book, especially if strength is an issue. Personally, I wouldn't even use plywood, I'd use 1x material with at a bare minimum of locking rabbited drawer joints and glue. No screws needed but could clamp with nail gun for speed while glue dries. This would be very fast for multiple drawers of a standard size on just your table saw, and way stronger than pocket screws, glue and plywood. Also it's worth noting that drawers do not need to be the full height of the drawer opening. The drawers mainly just need to keep the items from rolling off the drawer. You can save a lot of material with 100 drawers that way. Use plywood for the bottoms. -- Jack Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions. |
#38
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On Thu, 10 Oct 2019 15:43:03 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote: Bob La Londe writes: On 10/4/2019 1:24 PM, Bob La Londe wrote: Well after much thought I figure I'll go with 3/4 plywood and pocket screws with Titebond. Personally, I'd use box joints for the drawer sides; much stronger. Ayup. __ "Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is. No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public. Which is a very good thing." Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
#39
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On Fri, 4 Oct 2019 13:24:29 -0700, Bob La Londe
wrote: This might be metalworking or wood working. I'm seriously thinking about removing the work benches from along the back wall in my shop and replacing them with a single continuous monolithic steel plate top work bench. Beveled, welded, and ground flat at each joint. Apx 54' long. Ok, that part is definitely metalworking. Here is the part I am undecided about. I want drawers from the bench top to about 3 inches above the floor from end to end. No. not a 54' long drawer. LOL. Banks of drawers, to eliminate all my roll away tool boxes and sort a lot of tools with their related parts. ie: Snap rings with snap ring tools, etc... Appearance is a non issue for me. Strength and speed of assembly probably rank 1 & 2 for importance with cost coming in at number three. Not all drawers would need to be super strong of course, but I would like to make them all the same. Right now I am thinking about wood drawers or folded/welded sheet metal drawers. I have a decent finger brake and various metal cutting processes in my shop. I also have all the wood working tools I could need for making wood drawers. No matter which way I go I'd want to make them all the same way. I looked at roll away bottom cabinets as an option under the bench, but they are either way to light duty, don't have drawer configurations that I like, or way to expensive. Wood will be cheaper and easier. Metal will last forever. __ "Poor widdle Wudy...mentally ill, lies constantly, doesnt know who he is, or even what gender "he" is. No more pathetic creature has ever walked the earth. But...he is locked into a mental hospital for the safety of the public. Which is a very good thing." Asun rauhassa, valmistaudun sotaan. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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