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Jim Wilkins[_2_] Jim Wilkins[_2_] is offline
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Default Fast, Inexpensive, Strong Drawers

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
"Jim Wilkins" writes:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message
...
On 10/10/2019 1:56 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Bob La Londe writes:



I would add that depending on details we aren't talking about
5-6
drawers or even a dozen or twenty. I am looking at around
90-100
drawers in that span. Making one box doesn't take all that
long,
but
making a hundred of them sure does.


If all the boxes are uniform in size, it would seem feasible to
build a jig that lets one gang-cut the box-joints with a router;
stack a dozen or two 3/4" sides/fronts/backs (if square draws) on
edge, clamp, place a homemade router guide jig over the edges and
route away.

May be a wash timewise when compared with screwing and glueing.



I'll have to think about that. Its worth consideration. It has
the
advantage of not worrying about the shifting force with pocket
hole
screws.


Mounting the router in a router table would make fixturing easier.


I wouldn't want to try to move a 9" thick stack of 20"x8"[*] plywood
pieces on edge across a router table. Much easier to move the
router in
this case and keep the material stationary.

[*] Assuming a 20" wide by 8" deep drawer.


I wouldn't want to either, that's a task a bandsaw (or my sawmill)
could rough out and a jointer or thickness planer could finish, but a
table saw is the better choice. The router would cut the edge detail
separately for each piece, guided by the fixture clamped to the table.

My father and I made a batch of t&g flooring on his Shopsmith, set up
like a horizontal-shaft table router. The saw fence was the width
guide and we clamped on scrap wood blocks to hold the flooring strips
against the table, so they only needed to be pushed through by the
next strip. I used the Shopsmith the same way with a saw blade to cut
the edge tongues and grooves in cabinet panel doors.