I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades. The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

(I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open my
wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that the
bugger is starting to crack...)

-BR

On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

(I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open my
wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that the
bugger is starting to crack...)

;-)

FWIW, the "voucher" for the next tool isn't. It's a factory rebate
coupon, no matter what it says on it. You have to go to the a web
site and enter the coupon number, the model, and serial number of the
additional tool, then "wait 6 to 8 weeks" for a check).

On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 04:58:01 -0800, Dr. Deb wrote:

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades. The
absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.

Haven't tried Carter, but otherwise my experience is the same.


--
Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!

"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
listings.

Brewster wrote in news


The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland
Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades
I replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

(I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open
my wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that
the bugger is starting to crack...)

-BR


You'll want to take a look at this FAQ:
https://web.archive.org/web/20040804...hammer.org/cro
wbar/

It was the best I could find.

Puckdropper

On 11/11/2016 3:51 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
listings.



For your purposes Highland Hardware = Highland Woodworking. If you are
looking for their house brand resaw blade then it is in this neighborhood:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...s705to137.aspx

I find them to be pretty good blades overall but like any others they can
start to get a bit 'funny' when they feel like it -- first they are
tracking and cutting perfectly then they aren't.

"John McGaw" wrote in message
...
On 11/11/2016 3:51 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set
in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll
ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland
Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the
paid
listings.



For your purposes Highland Hardware = Highland Woodworking. If you are
looking for their house brand resaw blade then it is in this neighborhood:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...s705to137.aspx

I find them to be pretty good blades overall but like any others they can
start to get a bit 'funny' when they feel like it -- first they are
tracking and cutting perfectly then they aren't.

Thank you.

"Bob La Londe" wrote:

"krw" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
listings.

For resawing the blade is 'Wood Slicer' and it's 'Highland Woodworking'
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...aw-blades.aspx

For all other bandsaw blade needs/sizes I suggest you can't do better than the fine folk @
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm

doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.

How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do
something ?

Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.

Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?


Martin

On 11/10/2016 8:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4

On 11/11/16 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.

How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do
something ?

Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.

Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?


Martin

The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting.
Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the
blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a Timberwolf
in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in it
that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run clean.
This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

After 30 minutes (or less) the tension may have changed. Tried
increasing/decreasing it?

On 11/11/2016 9:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting.
Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the
blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.

Yep ... I eyeball it to the thickness of a sheet of paper/$bill when
setting mine.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 13:51:39 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"krw" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
listings.



http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/b...cessories.aspx

On Thu, 10 Nov 2016 21:33:15 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.

was it really half inch

you have clearly established your dislike for these blades

have an olson that seemed fine until i induced a set into it
took it off and uninduced the set and it seems to be ok

but most cuts are just for roughing stock for the lathe so not
too precise

if i ever need precision i will look at the widest my saw can take
but i will still keep my expectations low


what are you cutting and what are you making

On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.

On 11/11/2016 8:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.

How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do
something ?

Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.

Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?


Martin

On 11/10/2016 8:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4

The rear bearing is pulled back. BTW your bearing should not be running
up against the blade when not under load. As soon as you touch wood is
when it should engage.

The blade was uncoiled in my hands, with gloves on.

I spent a long time years ago truing this band saw up. The wheel is true .

My timberwolf broke, but it was running true. My old dull olson runs true.

This is a blade that has some wierd set in it. Not what I would call
usable. I made a couple of test resaw cuts and it was so rough .. not
close to the timberwolf.

And yes everyone I had planned on trying the wood slicer, I have been
happy with my timberwolfs, but I am always willing to give something a try.

--
Jeff

On 11/12/2016 7:23 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"woodchucker" wrote in message
...
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a Timberwolf
in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in it
that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run clean.
This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

After 30 minutes (or less) the tension may have changed. Tried
increasing/decreasing it?



Yes, I did. I increased it hoping to take the set out. and kept moving
it up until it finally bottomed the spring out.
It's a good set that won't come out.

I might have lived with it if the cut wasn't so poor. It has a pretty
thick kerf too.

--
Jeff

On 11/12/2016 11:32 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2016 21:33:15 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.

was it really half inch

you have clearly established your dislike for these blades

have an olson that seemed fine until i induced a set into it
took it off and uninduced the set and it seems to be ok

but most cuts are just for roughing stock for the lathe so not
too precise

if i ever need precision i will look at the widest my saw can take
but i will still keep my expectations low


what are you cutting and what are you making




1/2 the 14" saw says it can handle 3/4 but no one ever does.

About to make some Christmas gifts for some friends we go to every
Christmas eve. About to resaw quite a bit of walnut, cherry and maple.
They'll be more of the trays I did many years ago. A slightly
different design. They entertain a lot so these will be nice.. they
hold a wine glass and hors'doeuvres (sp?) . each looks different so you
can identify your own tray (think plate and wine)


--
Jeff

On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
all.


+100points!!!
I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
all.


+100points!!!
I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend back,
if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what I believe
to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new
blade.

--
Jeff

On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides
at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are
much more important than guides. I would go so far as to say
guides were invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy
woodworkers who don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend
back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what
I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when
I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote.
After much research and experimentation, that's what I came to witness
as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp & true blade
(proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on each
blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With those things
being attained, the guides are pretty much irrelevant.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

And remember if the blade moves very far - what is it doing on the
wheels? and to itself. A tiny bit - I like the old man thoughts -
Use a sheet of cig paper - I have a pack in my metal lathe G-box.

Do you use dial indicators on the wheels as they turn at speed ? or
is it only in idle and hand turned... Or at all ?

do your wheels have a flat spot on the rubber band from being kept at
tension for a long time ? And the wheel(s) cause the oscillation ?

Martin

On 11/12/2016 8:27 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/11/2016 9:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting.
Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the
blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.

Yep ... I eyeball it to the thickness of a sheet of paper/$bill when
setting mine.

On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
all.


+100points!!!
I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.

Congratulations, little drummer boi! Your gut-wrenching
ignorance is now permanently archived for the amusement of
future generations of woodworkers worldwide! LOLOK

http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900

Please pardon me while I push my guts back through the
hernia hole that laughing at your post has caused me to do.

On 11/12/16 9:33 PM, Laguna LT24 wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
all.


+100points!!!
I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.

Congratulations, little drummer boi! Your gut-wrenching
ignorance is now permanently archived for the amusement of
future generations of woodworkers worldwide! LOLOK

http://al.howardknight.net/msgid.cgi?ID=147900684900

Please pardon me while I push my guts back through the
hernia hole that laughing at your post has caused me to do.


Awww, how adorable.
I have another anonymous pussy, internet stalker troll.
Thank you, I'm flattered.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing
isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
all.


+100points!!!
I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all.
Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more
important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were
invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend back,
if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what I believe
to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new
blade.


Not necessarily achievable with any band saw. I learned that guides were
not necessary, on a good saw and blade when I view sited Mnimax for a
private demo of, IIRC, an MM16 band saw 10 years ago.
Unfortunately the only MM16 that they had to show was missing the upper
and lower guides. I was not happy about that but the rep said they were
not necessary on a rigid saw. Right he was, he and I both made several
cuts, straight and curved, on several thickness woods with no problems.
Ultimately I bought the
Laguna LT 16 HD.

On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides
at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are
much more important than guides. I would go so far as to say
guides were invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy
woodworkers who don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend
back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what
I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when
I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote.
After much research and experimentation, that's what I came to witness
as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp & true blade
(proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on each
blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With those things
being attained, the guides are pretty much irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?
I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions... so how
does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely perfect to make
sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.

It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.

--
Jeff

On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?


so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.


Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 12 Nov 2016 17:06:35 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

1/2 the 14" saw says it can handle 3/4 but no one ever does.

have never tried resawing on mine and the first time i watched a video
of someone resawing was not sure what i was seeing

ok the guy had a much nicer setup but he was making cuts i did not think
were possible on a bandsaw

maybe a thicker kerf instead of a wider blade would help

Christmas eve. About to resaw quite a bit of walnut, cherry and
maple. They'll be more of the trays I did many years ago. A slightly
different design. They entertain a lot so these will be nice.. they
hold a wine glass and hors'doeuvres (sp?) . each looks different so
you can identify your own tray (think plate and wine)

good idea
sounds useful

"Markem" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 13:51:39 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"krw" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 08:22:45 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:
I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade.
it has been in the box for a little over 5 years.
I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a
Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade
SUCKS.

After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set
in
it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run
clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll
ever
buy...

VIDEO of wobble : https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4
--
Jeff

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades.

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland
Hardware.


Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI
Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I
replaced them with.

I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware
Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid
listings.



http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/b...cessories.aspx

For all who replied... Thank you. I already ordered a couple for my little
Rigid bandsaw. And some cool blocks. If they work out it will save me
another project. I was going to make a bearing roller setup for it like the
one on my metal cutting bandsaw.

On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
back, so the blade would never come off.



so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.


Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.




--
Jeff

On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying.
There are other factors involved in backing up in the kerf that aren't
present in forward cutting.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
need guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
true. With those things being attained, the guides are
pretty much irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
moving back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.


By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/14/2016, -MIKE- wrote:

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?

You obviously haven't even a cursory grasp of what the ****
you are talking about, drummer boi.


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying.
There are other factors involved in backing up in the kerf that aren't
present in forward cutting.

Sickening isn't it? Why sure it is. What a horrifying
existence one must have to suffer through, to troll a news
group with this non-stop spew of empty headed drivel. And
having one and one thing only on your agenda, that being to
draw attention to one's self. When one is this desperate for
the spotlight, any attention, good or bad, seems to be
perfectly acceptable and this has me scratching my head
trying to understand the mentality behind this behavior. My
only guess at this point would be that in order for one to
be able to stand looking in the mirror at themselves after
posting a barrage of self-admittedly idiotic messages as in
this case, it would take a complete breakdown of one's self
esteem. It has really got to suck big time to be this hard
up for attention eh?

On 11/14/2016 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?




On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.


That is totally different, the blade does not cut in reverse so the
reverse pressure on the blade pulls it off of the wheels. When cutting
the pressure is less and the blades naturally try to stay on the wheels,
hense they don't touch the guides when just spinning.



When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
back, so the blade would never come off.

Some band saws will require guides, not all do. Granted under heavy
pressure the blade can be forced off but getting back to the original
problem, a bad blade, guides do not make one brand blade wobble.






so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.

No, I have done it with a Minimax MM16. Hard to believe but
experiencing this proved for me.






Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.

Nor should you try, it is just an odd perk of having a top end band saw
and good blade. I would not normally do this but in a pinch...





It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
news
By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.

Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track exactly
as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when
cutting.

On 11/14/2016 8:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
need guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
true. With those things being attained, the guides are
pretty much irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
moving back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.


By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.



I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown.
I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove
the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was
not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel .
But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I
had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.



--
Jeff

On 11/15/2016 8:26 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
news
By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.

Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track exactly
as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when
cutting.



I don't find that to be true. If your guides are right where they should
be the guide takes the pressure and does not change the tracking at all.
And I assume this is because it is well tuned as well.

--
Jeff

On 11/15/2016 11:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/15/2016 8:26 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
news
By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.

Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track
exactly
as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when
cutting.



I don't find that to be true. If your guides are right where they should
be the guide takes the pressure and does not change the tracking at all.
And I assume this is because it is well tuned as well.


I wrote guides, but meant thrust bearing.

--
Jeff