On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
need guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
true. With those things being attained, the guides are
pretty much irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
moving back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.


By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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