On 11/15/2016 11:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 8:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
need guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
true. With those things being attained, the guides are
pretty much irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
moving back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.


By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.



I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown.
I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove
the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was
not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel .
But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I
had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.




New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
the Olson crap.
https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o

The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
after taking 1/16 slice off.

Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.



--
Jeff

On 11/18/16 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/15/2016 11:10 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 8:58 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:46 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The
running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
need guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without
any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a
sharp, true blade are much more important than guides.
I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make
up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who
don't take the time to set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants
to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At
least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for
me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and
experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true.
Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp &
true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if
any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and
true. With those things being attained, the guides are
pretty much irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2
occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop
you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I
misunderstand?


On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides.
I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.

When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from
moving back, so the blade would never come off.


Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in
backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.


By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post
on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running
(tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.

You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the
blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that
is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and
thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to
ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.



I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown.
I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove
the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was
not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel .
But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I
had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.




New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
the Olson crap.
https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o

The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
after taking 1/16 slice off.

Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.


Welp, alrighty then! Get to cuttin'!

Glad it was cheap fix.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/18/2016 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Snip



New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
the Olson crap.
https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o

The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
after taking 1/16 slice off.

Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.




Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
are buying them. ;~)

The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
replaced to fit the Laguna.

On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
..
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).

-BR

On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:41:17 -0600, Leon wrote:

Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
are buying them. ;~)

The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
replaced to fit the Laguna.

As they say, YMMV. I have the Rikon and, once adjusted, haven't had any
problem with tracking on several different brands of blades. But I do
love my Woodslicer :-).



--
What if a much of a which of a wind gives the truth to summer's lie?

On 11/19/16 8:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2016 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Snip



New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
the Olson crap.
https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o

The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
after taking 1/16 slice off.

Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.




Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
are buying them. ;~)

The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
replaced to fit the Laguna.

+1

Personally I've had bad luck with Olsen and TW on my MiniMax, but only
from a blade life perspective. It all comes down to what you cut and how
much wear is applied to the blade. Some steels are better than others
and some tooth designs are not appropriate for one application that may
not seem that different from the application they excel at.

-BR

On 11/19/16 8:51 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too
little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.

I thought Lagunas had flat tires (maybe not...)
As a kid I first was introduced to "crowning" when noticing the wide
pulleys on dragster blowers had a curved profile. It works to keep the
belt centered since for some reason I don't quite understand the belt
likes to climb. I'm sure the same physics are in force for crowned band
saw wheels.

-BR

On 11/20/2016 10:18 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/19/16 8:51 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too
little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.

I thought Lagunas had flat tires (maybe not...)

Rubber with a slight crown.

As a kid I first was introduced to "crowning" when noticing the wide
pulleys on dragster blowers had a curved profile. It works to keep the
belt centered since for some reason I don't quite understand the belt
likes to climb. I'm sure the same physics are in force for crowned band
saw wheels.

-BR


Belt sanders have a crown on the rollers too.

I would venture to guess that the crown allows the blade to pivot
slightly. If the blade on the cutting side is pushed back slightly the
rigidity of the blade causes the blade to come forward on the opposite
side of the wheel to counter act the tendency to come off of the wheels.

It makes sense that if ther is a high spot on the wheels you want that
spot in the center vs. the front or back.

A high spot was on both front and back would cause the blade to dull
quickly.

On 11/20/2016 10:12 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/19/16 8:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2016 9:45 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Snip



New blade arrived today. Picked up a Highland woodslicer 1/2" . It
tracks like it should, put it on, shot a video just to show you it was
the Olson crap.
https://youtu.be/z6MwMxNL29o

The fence didn't need touching, my alignment for my timberwolf was the
same as the woodslicer. 0 thousandths diff on a 3" wide 12" long board
after taking 1/16 slice off.

Like I said OLSON's suck. It's a shame because it's an American company,
but I can't let crap like that go... The blades suck.




Don't totally write off Olson, I have never used that brand but people
are buying them. ;~)

The reason I say not to write off Olson is because I bought a bunch of
Timberwolf blades 10 years ago and none of them tracked correctly on my
Rikon BS. It was the BS. I am not saying that there is an issue with
your BS but I learned that some blades and some saw brands do not play
well together. I got rid of the Rikon after about 2 weeks and ordered a
Laguna LT16 HD. This saw, the Laguna, does not care what brand I put on
it, including the Timberwolf blades that Timberwolf they took back and
replaced to fit the Laguna.

+1

Personally I've had bad luck with Olsen and TW on my MiniMax, but only
from a blade life perspective. It all comes down to what you cut and how
much wear is applied to the blade. Some steels are better than others
and some tooth designs are not appropriate for one application that may
not seem that different from the application they excel at.

-BR


My and apparently woodchuckers issue was getting the blades to track
correctly to begin with. Timberwolf had me cut one of their blades and
lay it out flat to observe that it laid out straight, it did.
Oddly/out of the blue they asked me if my saw was a Rikon. Yes, they
responded that they have had some issues with their blades and that
particular 18" saw.

In defense of the Rikon the blade that came with it and one, a no name
brand that I had custom made, worked fine. Unfortunately the roller
bearings were an issue for me as they got dirty quickly and there was a
lot of vibration along with the tracking issues with different blades.

Some of the blades moved forward and backward as the saw ran.

On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver BC
peterbb (at) telus.net
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vpsboat.com

On 11/20/2016 7:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html


Thank you. That explained tracking and at the end of the video another
witness that guides are not necessary per the comment about the band saw
mill that used no guides and had teeth on both sides of the blade for
sawing in both directions.

On 11/20/2016 4:18 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/20/2016 10:18 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/19/16 8:51 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too
little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.

I thought Lagunas had flat tires (maybe not...)

Rubber with a slight crown.

As a kid I first was introduced to "crowning" when noticing the wide
pulleys on dragster blowers had a curved profile. It works to keep the
belt centered since for some reason I don't quite understand the belt
likes to climb. I'm sure the same physics are in force for crowned band
saw wheels.

-BR


Belt sanders have a crown on the rollers too.

Not all. my 6x48 have straight drums. But my 1x40 has crowned wheels.



I would venture to guess that the crown allows the blade to pivot
slightly. If the blade on the cutting side is pushed back slightly the
rigidity of the blade causes the blade to come forward on the opposite
side of the wheel to counter act the tendency to come off of the wheels.

It makes sense that if ther is a high spot on the wheels you want that
spot in the center vs. the front or back.

A high spot was on both front and back would cause the blade to dull
quickly.






--
Jeff

On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/19/2016 9:46 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.


It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.



I've done it on my saw when I needed that extra few inches of resaw
depth. I have flat tires and a wide blade, I imagine a crowned wheel
could have issues if not tensioned correctly (not too much or too little).

-BR



Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html



Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!

-BR

On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

:


Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html



Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!

-BR



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR

On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

:


Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25" wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html



Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!

-BR



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR


Teeth off the front of the rubber?
How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.
Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.

I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.



--
Jeff

On 11/22/2016 12:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

:


Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25"
wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html



Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!

-BR



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR


Teeth off the front of the rubber?
How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.

Many Italian built BS's have "rubber" tires. My Laguna has rubber.



Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.

I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.

On 11/22/2016 2:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/22/2016 12:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

:


Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25"
wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html



Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!

-BR



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR


Teeth off the front of the rubber?
How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.

Many Italian built BS's have "rubber" tires. My Laguna has rubber.

I'm not questioning the rubber, I'm curious about the teeth being off
front (assuming off the rubber) That too me is what I don't understand.
I never heard of that.



Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.

I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.






--
Jeff

replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm





Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than him.

On 11/22/2016 2:37 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/22/2016 2:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/22/2016 12:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/21/16 9:05 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/20/16 6:11 PM, Peter Bennett wrote:
On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 09:51:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

:


Oddly, and counter to what you would think, the crown helps the
blade
stay centered, I read that some where when researching BS's 10 years
ago. With my Laguna the tension does not seem to be critical and I
seldom adjust the top wheel tilt when going from a 1/2" to a 1.25"
wide
blade.


Mattias Wandel explains this:
http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html



Very nice. The "stretching" from the crown makes sense, negative
feedback control loop!

-BR



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR


Teeth off the front of the rubber?
How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.

Many Italian built BS's have "rubber" tires. My Laguna has rubber.

I'm not questioning the rubber, I'm curious about the teeth being off
front (assuming off the rubber) That too me is what I don't understand.
I never heard of that.

Oh., Well some blades are wider then the tires.... From there I don't
know.

On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at
all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his
line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he
said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount
of misinformation on the internet.

--
for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm





Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than him.


And to bring you up to speed on this. I visited the home office at
Minimax to demo the MM16. Unfortunately for both of us, me and the rep
showing me the saw, there were no guides on the MM16. We sawed with
guides anyway per his comment that you can saw with out guides.

We sawed with OUT
guides anyway per his comment that you can saw with out guides.

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm





Ask Mr. Bird how this band saw would cut with guides. Hint, it does not
have guides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tD68veoEz3k

Or how the thrust bearings and guides work on this blade.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAFELL-Z5Ec-...-/330858956821

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides
at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating
his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my
iphone he said you were more full of **** than a thanksgiving turkey
then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on
the internet.

--
for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm





Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out
them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than
him.

Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures were
better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember enough
about the content to give you an idea of its quality.

Puckdropper

--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your
message on my iphone he said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering
amount of misinformation on the internet.

-- for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm







Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with
out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
than him.

Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures
were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember
enough about the content to give you an idea of its quality.

Puckdropper


I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that contained
false information or thing that had been excepted practice for decades
and decades which were taken as the Gospel truth simply because they'd
never been challenged or changed.

Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever even
tried it.
BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did was complete bull$h!t
anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm guessing Leon fell for
some troll bait which we all do from time to time.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/22/2016 11:21 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your
message on my iphone he said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering
amount of misinformation on the internet.

-- for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm







Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with
out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
than him.

Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures
were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember
enough about the content to give you an idea of its quality.

Puckdropper


I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that contained
false information or thing that had been excepted practice for decades
and decades which were taken as the Gospel truth simply because they'd
never been challenged or changed.

Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever even
tried it.
BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did was complete bull$h!t
anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm guessing Leon fell for
some troll bait which we all do from time to time.


I fell but proved my statement correct.

On 11/22/16 11:30 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/22/2016 11:21 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not
need guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie
your message on my iphone he said you were more full of ****
than a thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the
staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.

-- for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm









Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from
the MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw
with out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
than him.

Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and
pictures were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I
don't remember enough about the content to give you an idea of
its quality.

Puckdropper


I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that
contained false information or thing that had been excepted
practice for decades and decades which were taken as the Gospel
truth simply because they'd never been challenged or changed.

Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever
even tried it. BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did
was complete bull$h!t anyway, so my last point is kind of moot.
I'm guessing Leon fell for some troll bait which we all do from
time to time.


I fell but proved my statement correct.

Yours, mine, and the experience of many others proved it.
I just think this "meeting" never happened and if it did, Lonnie never
said that, certainly not the way it was quoted.

Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove the
upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience confidently
outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/22/16 11:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR


Teeth off the front of the rubber?

Yep.

How old is the saw?

2003

What brand?

MiniMax 16

I wonder if the tire is worn.

Nope, just SOP for these saws.

Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.

I fried (melted) my tires when I was resawing some really tough wood
with a 1-1/4" 0.035" thick blade, about the max I'd ever try to tension
on that saw. Usually the tires are supposed to last "forever" (_they_
say), but other then the melted sections, the rubber was nice and
pliable. Bummer is new rubber ran $40 each.


I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.

I could run in the center, but the teeth would tend to eat up the tire
surface given the minimal crown. I have a 1960's 14" Powermatic that is
more typical in that the blades need to run in the center. This saw has
flat machined wheels so the tires supply the crown. I replaced the
original rubber with urethane, which were also flat. The tire mfg.
suggested building up the crown with strips of tape placed in the center
of the wheel (under the tire), 1/4" strip on top of a 1/2" strip.
The crown is visible and the blade loves to seek out that high point.

That second saw lets me keep a 1/4" blade on the 14" saw for general
cutting and curves and leave the MM set up for resawing. BIG time saver
not having to swap out blades in the middle of a project.

-BR

On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:


Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove the
upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience confidently
outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.




I've done the same, no issues.
In all fairness, I can see how narrow blades ( 1/4") with limited beam
strength might bend enough (without guides) to derail when being pushed
(i.e. resawing). The strength of the saw frame probably factors in too,
especially if it begins to twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.

-BR

On 11/23/2016 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:


Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove the
upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience confidently
outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.




I've done the same, no issues.
In all fairness, I can see how narrow blades ( 1/4") with limited beam
strength might bend enough (without guides) to derail when being pushed
(i.e. resawing). The strength of the saw frame probably factors in too,
especially if it begins to twist ever so slightly when loading up the
blade.

-BR


And in all fairness I don't recommend running with out guides either, I
just know that better saws and blades can.

I made this comment when some one mentioned that the saw did not look
like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't
turning at all. No touch.

The fact that the blade was not touching parts of the guide is what
prompted me to mention that the guides are not a part of proper
tracking, and or necessary.

On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
....

Who is Lonnie Bird?
....

http://www.finewoodworking.com/readerproject/2015/05/27/federal-style-serpentine-chest

I've known Lonnie for nearly 40 yr now; first met him when he was still
in Berea, KY. Besides a superb craftsman he's a real gentleman. Yes,
he runs a commercial woodworking school as well as his shop and has some
endorsements but everybody deserves to make a living without impugning
motive.

On 11/23/2016 12:21 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your
message on my iphone he said you were more full of **** than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering
amount of misinformation on the internet.

-- for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm







Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with
out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
than him.

Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures
were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember
enough about the content to give you an idea of its quality.

Puckdropper


I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that contained
false information or thing that had been excepted practice for decades
and decades which were taken as the Gospel truth simply because they'd
never been challenged or changed.

Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever even
tried it.
BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did was complete bull$h!t
anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm guessing Leon fell for
some troll bait which we all do from time to time.


Lonnie Bird makes some beautiful furniture. He's not your typical
writer, he's the real deal.

I have not read his book.



--
Jeff

On 11/23/2016 10:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/22/16 11:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/22/2016 10:45 AM, Brewster wrote:



My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.

-BR


Teeth off the front of the rubber?

Yep.

How old is the saw?

2003

What brand?

MiniMax 16

I wonder if the tire is worn.

Nope, just SOP for these saws.

Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.

I fried (melted) my tires when I was resawing some really tough wood
with a 1-1/4" 0.035" thick blade, about the max I'd ever try to tension
on that saw. Usually the tires are supposed to last "forever" (_they_
say), but other then the melted sections, the rubber was nice and
pliable. Bummer is new rubber ran $40 each.


I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.

I could run in the center, but the teeth would tend to eat up the tire
surface given the minimal crown. I have a 1960's 14" Powermatic that is
more typical in that the blades need to run in the center. This saw has
flat machined wheels so the tires supply the crown. I replaced the
original rubber with urethane, which were also flat. The tire mfg.
suggested building up the crown with strips of tape placed in the center
of the wheel (under the tire), 1/4" strip on top of a 1/2" strip.
The crown is visible and the blade loves to seek out that high point.

That second saw lets me keep a 1/4" blade on the 14" saw for general
cutting and curves and leave the MM set up for resawing. BIG time saver
not having to swap out blades in the middle of a project.

-BR





I have not had to replace the urethane tire on my Delta . I would have
thought the urethane tires have the crown built in. But I don't know as
I've never taken off the tire. Maybe some do and some don't.

I usually run a 1/2 blade unless doing something curvy. So my narrower
blades get much less use.

Thanks, for the info, I had never heard of that, but I guess it makes sense.

--
Jeff

On 11/23/16 9:26 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/22/2016 7:04 PM, Leon wrote:
...

Who is Lonnie Bird?
...

http://www.finewoodworking.com/readerproject/2015/05/27/federal-style-serpentine-chest


I've known Lonnie for nearly 40 yr now; first met him when he was still
in Berea, KY. Besides a superb craftsman he's a real gentleman. Yes,
he runs a commercial woodworking school as well as his shop and has some
endorsements but everybody deserves to make a living without impugning
motive.


A gentleman, yes, which is why I believe the alleged from him is
fictional.
I don't believe he would ever have said that.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/23/16 11:05 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/23/2016 12:21 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/22/16 11:10 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/22/2016 4:25 PM, Travis McDowell wrote:
replying to Leon, Travis McDowell wrote:
Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday
demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie
your message on my iphone he said you were more full of ****
than a thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the
staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.

-- for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm










Who is Lonnie Bird?

He is there to sell you something. I got my information from
the MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can
saw with out them.


I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject
than him.

Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and
pictures were better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I
don't remember enough about the content to give you an idea of
its quality.

Puckdropper


I think we've all seen lots of book by supposed experts that
contained false information or thing that had been excepted
practice for decades and decades which were taken as the Gospel
truth simply because they'd never been challenged or changed.

Not to take anything away from Mr. Bird, but I wonder if he ever
even tried it. BTW, I think the post about him saying what he did
was complete bull$h!t anyway, so my last point is kind of moot. I'm
guessing Leon fell for some troll bait which we all do from time to
time.


Lonnie Bird makes some beautiful furniture. He's not your typical
writer, he's the real deal.

I have not read his book.


I have no doubt. Nothing is my post is meant as any disrespect to him.
A. As I said, I have serious doubts that he even said when the troll
said he said.
B. He probably has gone his entire life without ever having and reason
to use a bandsaw without the guides, so as with anyone who's never tried
it, your initial thought is probably, "Well, that sounds dangerous, I
wouldn't recommend it."

So if this fiction encounter did in fact take place, I suspect his
actual response was more in line with that. However, if he ever tried
it, he'd be in for a pleasant surprise. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/23/16 9:15 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 11/22/16 10:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:


Since I've re-sawed dozens of board feet of stock, having to remove
the upper guides to an extra inch of cut, my experience
confidently outweighs anyone's ignorant opinions on the subject.




I've done the same, no issues. In all fairness, I can see how narrow
blades ( 1/4") with limited beam strength might bend enough (without
guides) to derail when being pushed (i.e. resawing). The strength of
the saw frame probably factors in too, especially if it begins to
twist ever so slightly when loading up the blade.

-BR


Like you said, strength of frame. All I ever said was with a good,
properly set up saw and good blade, you can cut without the guides.

I'm not saying you did this, but it's funny how when someone says
something like that people take it to mean, "You shouldn't use your
guides" or "Guides aren't necessary on a bandsaw."

I do contend that guides are often used as a crutch and/or make for for
poor design/manufacturing of cheap saws. Some people buy a bandsaw and
never actually set it up or adjust it properly. And some manufactured
don't bother "getting it right" at the factory because they just figure
the guides will fix all that.

I also believe that more often than not, people are trying to do too
much with a blade and/or using a dull blade and that's why they expect
the thrust bearings to do all the muscle work.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tue, 22 Nov 2016 19:04:30 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Lonnie Bird

http://www.lonniebird.com/

Yep he is selling something, but the thing about the internet is true.
I heard that on the internet so YMMV.

I think it is about Travis's ego though.

On 11/23/2016 1:34 PM, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 22 Nov 2016 19:04:30 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Lonnie Bird

http://www.lonniebird.com/

Yep he is selling something, but the thing about the internet is true.
I heard that on the internet so YMMV.

I think it is about Travis's ego though.



Perhaps if my statement had not been taken out of context it would have
made more since to Mr. Bird.

On 11/22/2016, Travis McDowell wrote:
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating
his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my
iphone he said you were more full of **** than a thanksgiving turkey
then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on
the internet.

--
for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...es-802682-.htm


Kudos to Travis for making giblet gravy out of both those
puffy pretentious turkeys with one crushing post! You got that
pompous prick Leon and his sycophantic ball washer, drummer boi,
spinning like whirling dervish trying to backpedal their way
out of looking like total ****ing idiots! LOLOK

Cheers!

Who is Lonnie Bird?
Muahahahahaahahahhaha!!