On 11/14/2016 7:25 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/14/2016 4:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/14/16 2:56 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 9:17 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running
bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.


Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need
guides at all.


+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any
guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp,
true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so
far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy
manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to
set up their saws.



I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to
bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least
that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll
test a 2x6 when I get new blade.


I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation,
that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper
tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended
purpose, as well!).

I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on
each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With
those things being attained, the guides are pretty much
irrelevant.


How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels?

Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.


I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions...

When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you
from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?




On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I
have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.


That is totally different, the blade does not cut in reverse so the
reverse pressure on the blade pulls it off of the wheels. When cutting
the pressure is less and the blades naturally try to stay on the wheels,
hense they don't touch the guides when just spinning.



When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving
back, so the blade would never come off.

Some band saws will require guides, not all do. Granted under heavy
pressure the blade can be forced off but getting back to the original
problem, a bad blade, guides do not make one brand blade wobble.






so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely
perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.

No, I have done it with a Minimax MM16. Hard to believe but
experiencing this proved for me.






Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood
through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the
stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient.
:-)


It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.

Nor should you try, it is just an odd perk of having a top end band saw
and good blade. I would not normally do this but in a pinch...





It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best
bandsaws available.