Howdy. My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop, and I am a new
member cuz my kitchen drawers are falling apart and I need to learn
how to fix them. Since the entire house (mfd home) is fiberboard and
long abuse by my late mother has it falling apart, it's time to learn
some decent cabinetry.

I know jes enough about general carpentry that I'm totally fearless.
Spent 8 mos framing houses. Boy, can I ever neaten up a lumber pile!
Plus, as a former machinist and my late brother having been a master
carpenter, I've already got a lot of those tools.

Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
.....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).

I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff. Looks like big fun. I'm looking
forward to posting, here. If I get good enough, might try a guitar
spkr cabinet with all dovetail joinery, like I usta have (mesa boogie
mk II).

nb

notbob wrote in :

Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).

I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff.

If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.

John

On 2016-03-13, John McCoy wrote:

If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.

I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
--benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
router table.

I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

I've so much to learn.

nb

In article ,
says...

On 2016-03-13, John McCoy wrote:

If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.

I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
--benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
router table.

I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

I've so much to learn.

The main thing the lift gives you is precise control of the protrusion
of the bit above the table using a control that you access from above
the table. There are some routers now that have the same sort of
capability built-in or easily addable.

On Sunday, March 13, 2016 at 12:40:42 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-13, John McCoy wrote:

If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.

I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
--benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
router table.

Where have you been looking?

A simple Google search of _DIY router table_ returns a ridiculous number of hits.

Just as an example, one such hit...

http://freebies.about.com/od/free-pl...able-plans.htm

....leads to this...

http://www.ana-white.com/2012/07/pla...s-router-table

....and this...

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/pr...r-router-table

There are probably hundreds of plans to choose from on ye ole interweb.


I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

I've so much to learn.

nb

John McCoy writes:
If I might make a suggestion, build your own router table.
You can find plans on-line, and most router tables are done
in the same style as a kitchen cabinet, so you'll be exercising
the same skills you'll want for the kitchen re-hab.

Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
practice for my dining room cabinets!

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/

notbob wrote:


I gotta clear out one of my late mother's sheds. One of them would be
perfect as a workshop. I've been looking at plans fer everything
--benches, tables, jigs, etc-- but have not run across DIY plans fer a
router table.

I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

I've so much to learn.


Oh man - let google be your friend. Do a simple search - there is a ton
of stuff out there for DIY plans, including lifts and all the other
stuff. In fact, that may well be one of the biggest hits on DIY
woodworking things.


--
-Mike-

On 13 Mar 2016 15:53:11 GMT
notbob wrote:

My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop

you must be a l33t h4x0r

i am leon and i own a ****load of really expensive festools and you dont
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notbob wrote in news:dkljg4Ft51cU4
@mid.individual.net:

I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:

1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
straight edges for that purpose).

2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
it, but I've seen others do so.

3 - drill a starter hole a hair larger than the router bit,
and with the router in the table put the workpiece over the
bit, turn the router on and make the cut. This is how I do
it to make stopped grooves and similar cuts. (*)

The purpose of the lift is simply to make it easy to adjust
the bit height when the router is in the table. Particularly
if it's a plunge router, the normal depth adjustment is hard
to use in a table.

I've so much to learn.

Gotta start somewhere, and this is (usually) a good place.

John

(* note that a lot of times it's simpler to make a thru groove,
and then plug the ends with scrap stock cut to the groove's
width)

In article ,
says...

notbob wrote in news:dkljg4Ft51cU4
@mid.individual.net:

I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:

1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
straight edges for that purpose).

2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
it, but I've seen others do so.

3 - drill a starter hole a hair larger than the router bit,
and with the router in the table put the workpiece over the
bit, turn the router on and make the cut. This is how I do
it to make stopped grooves and similar cuts. (*)

The purpose of the lift is simply to make it easy to adjust
the bit height when the router is in the table. Particularly
if it's a plunge router, the normal depth adjustment is hard
to use in a table.

However using the lift to raise the bit into a piece that is secured by
featherboards and other controls is quite safe and can be done with good
accuracy.

I've so much to learn.

Gotta start somewhere, and this is (usually) a good place.

John

(* note that a lot of times it's simpler to make a thru groove,
and then plug the ends with scrap stock cut to the groove's
width)

Neon Leon wrote:
On 13 Mar 2016 15:53:11 GMT
notbob wrote:

My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop

you must be a l33t h4x0r

i am leon and i own a ****load of really expensive festools and you dont

No - you are a complete asshole with nothing valuable to say.

On Sun, 13 Mar 2016 19:14:40 -0400
Mike Marlow wrote:

No - you are a complete asshole with nothing valuable to say.

**** you too sparky
now run along and hang some smoke detectors
in that charred **** shack you call home

i am leon and i own a ****load of really expensive festools and you dont
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;~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~ );~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);
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~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~) ;~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~
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~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~) ;~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~);~

On 3/13/2016 5:56 PM, John McCoy wrote:
notbob wrote in news:dkljg4Ft51cU4
@mid.individual.net:

I think I'll need one with a "lift". Is a lift for the purpose of
allowing a rounter to do plunge-cuts from sed same router table?

No, you don't do plunge cuts on a router table. If you need to
start in the middle of a piece, there's three ways to do it:

1 - use your plunge router in it's normal hand-held manner.
Clamp straightedges to your workpiece as needed to guide
the router (I keep an assortment of longish scraps with
straight edges for that purpose).

2 - with the router in the table, running, and your workpiece
held at an angle above the table, butted up against a stop,
carefully lower it onto the bit and then make your cut.
Myself I consider this a dangerous technique and don't do
it, but I've seen others do so.

I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.

On a different note I used a 4 flute HSS end mill bit and it lasted 5~10
times longer than any carbide bits plus it cut much more smoothly when
lowering the work.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
:

I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.

If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
sled's fence to make the groove.

I've seen pictures of a rig like that used to make tenons
for chair slats.

John

On 2016-03-14, John McCoy wrote:

If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece.

I've seen a buncha U2B videos on routers and they look like a hoot!

I really like the router table lift kits.

I've seen "sleds" fer table saws, but have no clue as to yer
"horizontally" mounted, sliding sled, router.

nb

On 3/14/2016 2:23 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
:

I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.

If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
sled's fence to make the groove.

Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.



I've seen pictures of a rig like that used to make tenons
for chair slats.

John

On Mon, 14 Mar 2016 16:45:44 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/14/2016 2:23 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
:

I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.

If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
sled's fence to make the groove.

Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.


So the coffin smoother I bought from Steve very likely has passed
through your hand Leon, thanks.

On 3/15/2016 7:30 AM, Markem wrote:
On Mon, 14 Mar 2016 16:45:44 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 3/14/2016 2:23 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:sJidndu9P9MzjnvLnZ2dnUU7-
:

I used to use that method making mouth blocks for Steve Knight 15 years
ago.. I was lowering a chunk of 2"x3.5"x 3/8" Ipe to make two parallel
3/8" x 1.5" slots. I literally did this thousands of times.
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. I wished there was a faster and or better
way but the pieces were so small that was about my only option.

If I were doing that on a production basis, I think I'd
build a table with a horizontally mounted router and a
sliding sled to hold the workpiece. Slide the sled and
workpiece into the bit, then move the workpiece along the
sled's fence to make the groove.

Basically it was 200~300 slots at a time every 2~4 months for about 4
years and that was it. It actually went pretty quickly, 4~6 hours on
the slots for each run. But there was the resawing, planing, cutting to
width and length and cutting a 45 on one end. Tough on the fingers
holding that wood, 3 times harder than oak and the edges were sharp.


So the coffin smoother I bought from Steve very likely has passed
through your hand Leon, thanks.


Very likely if you bought between 1999 and 2006 ish. But only the mouth
block, not the whole smoother. ;~)

On 2016-03-13, DJ Delorie wrote:

Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
practice for my dining room cabinets!

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/

Beautiful table and thank you for the link.

Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?

Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
neighbors.

nb

"notbob" wrote in message ...

Howdy. My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop, and I am a new
member cuz my kitchen drawers are falling apart and I need to learn
how to fix them. Since the entire house (mfd home) is fiberboard and
long abuse by my late mother has it falling apart, it's time to learn
some decent cabinetry.

I know jes enough about general carpentry that I'm totally fearless.
Spent 8 mos framing houses. Boy, can I ever neaten up a lumber pile!
Plus, as a former machinist and my late brother having been a master
carpenter, I've already got a lot of those tools.

Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
.....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).

I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff. Looks like big fun. I'm looking
forward to posting, here. If I get good enough, might try a guitar
spkr cabinet with all dovetail joinery, like I usta have (mesa boogie
mk II).

nb

Do yourself a favor and take a good read at Pat Warner's site. I built the
first version of this router fence when he wrote the article for Fine
Woodworking magazine. That fence is still in-use today and just as precise
as the day I built it.

http://www.patwarner.com/routerfence.html

Bob S.

notbob wrote in news:dl8cgkFlhsjU10
@mid.individual.net:

*snip*

Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
neighbors.

nb

A very cheap clamp is the humble wood screw. Naturally, it leaves a
woodscrew sized hole in whatever you're clamping. You just have to allow
for that and screw on the off-cut side.

Puckdropper

On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 3:37:59 PM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-13, DJ Delorie wrote:

Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
practice for my dining room cabinets!

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/

Beautiful table and thank you for the link.

Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?

Leon! ;-)

On 2016-03-21, Puckdropper puckdropper wrote:

notbob wrote in news:dl8cgkFlhsjU10

Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
neighbors.

A very cheap clamp is the humble wood screw. Naturally, it leaves a
woodscrew sized hole in whatever you're clamping. You just have to
allow for that and screw on the off-cut side.

Yes. The first joint I researched is the pocket-hole joint. I also
have a fiberboard face frame cross-piece (15"x1-5/8"x9/16") that
ripped out cuz the pkt-hls failed for the usual fiberboard reasons. I
kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
makes to do the job. Anyone have any experience with the all-metal HF
jig?

Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?

I have to replace the drawers, one at a time. I figure I'll use 1/2"
b.birch fer the box and use a different joint (biz, box, dove, etc)
with each drawer, depending on which tools --and how many clamps!-- I
have access to, at that time. When I have the tools and knowledge,
I'll attempt the full face frame and countertop.

Now, I need to replace all the decayed rubber parts on my B&D
Workbench 225. Boy, did that thing ever fall apart, suddenly. Oh
yeah ....and replace those crappy fiberboard slats (work-top?) before
they go south!

nb

On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 11:41:27 AM UTC-4, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-21, Puckdropper puckdropper wrote:

notbob wrote in news:dl8cgkFlhsjU10

Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
neighbors.

A very cheap clamp is the humble wood screw. Naturally, it leaves a
woodscrew sized hole in whatever you're clamping. You just have to
allow for that and screw on the off-cut side.

Yes. The first joint I researched is the pocket-hole joint. I also
have a fiberboard face frame cross-piece (15"x1-5/8"x9/16") that
ripped out cuz the pkt-hls failed for the usual fiberboard reasons. I
kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
makes to do the job. Anyone have any experience with the all-metal HF
jig?

Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?


Speaking of pocket holes and biscuits, I used my Kreg jig to mock
up a 5/4" x 8" x 38" square frame for the pot rack I'm making. Once
it had SWMBO's approval, I took out the screws and used 4 biscuits
at each joint, clamping the frame while the glue dried. Just before
I walked away I looked down on the table and saw the screws lying
there. Then I looked at the pocket holes in the frame.

I paused, I hesitated, I tried to walk away. I just couldn't do it.
Back in went the screws. 4 biscuits and 2 pocket screws per joint.
The wall will come down before this thing falls apart. ;-)

On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:

kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
makes to do the job.

Too bad. Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic
Kreg jigs.

AAMOF, I gave my old metal K2 of yore away because it did not allow use
of dust collection to keep the holes clear ... a real PITA with the old
K2 when production cutting a kitchen full of face frames.

Built literally thousands of FF's using the newer Kreg with nary a problem.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:

Our local cabinetry shop, which got me started down this seemingly
endless road, makes its drawer boxes with baltic birch (ply), using
biscuit joints. Is there a cheaper alternative to BB ply?

Yes, AND there many more correct ways to build drawers than to misuse
biscuit joinery.

If they indeed do that, you should run the other way down that road as
fast as you can, as there is a no more shoddy way to build a drawer than
to use biscuit joinery ... a guaranteed, unarguably, misguided FAIL from
the get go.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/20/2016 2:37 PM, notbob wrote:

Oh, I have plenty of dial
indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?

1/32" is a worthy goal to shoot for, as it is easy to see on most
measuring devices with 1/16" indices ... and it also lets you
interpolate to +/- 1/64th when the need arises ... and it does:

A 1/64" gap on a joint is readily apparent.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:
I have to replace the drawers, one at a time. I figure I'll use 1/2"
b.birch fer the box and use a different joint (biz, box, dove, etc)
with each drawer, depending on which tools --and how many clamps!-- I
have access to, at that time.

Baltic birch is a good material for a relatively inexpensive, but long
lasting, with the proper joinery, drawer boxes.

A good, medium strong joint for the plywood drawer box is a locking
rabbet joint. A joinery method that will stand the test of time in any
drawer that uses up to a 100 lb drawer slide, and is MUCH stronger than
a biscuit joint for the repeated forces a drawer must eventually withstand.

The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
"locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.

Keep in mind that many full service hardwood lumber yards carry
pre-finished, plywood drawer side material, in varying widths (but
usually 6' lengths), with a groove pre-cut for 1/4" plywood bottoms,
which can also be found pre-finished with the same polyurethane finish
as the sides.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote in
:

On 3/21/2016 10:41 AM, notbob wrote:

kinda like the pkt-hl joint, but do NOT like the plastic tools Kreg
makes to do the job.

Too bad. Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic
Kreg jigs.

AAMOF, I gave my old metal K2 of yore away because it did not allow
use of dust collection to keep the holes clear ... a real PITA with
the old K2 when production cutting a kitchen full of face frames.

Built literally thousands of FF's using the newer Kreg with nary a
problem.


My K4 has a metal insert that keeps the bit from digging in the plastic.
That metal insert is sharp! Use a acuum, compressed air or brush to
clean it, and not your fingers!

Puckdropper

On 3/20/2016 2:37 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-13, DJ Delorie wrote:

Amusingly enough, that's one reason I built *my* router table - it was
practice for my dining room cabinets!

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/

Beautiful table and thank you for the link.

Unfortunately, I do not have that kinda $$$$ and prolly will not be
bying any of that stuff (too much plastic). Oh, I have plenty of dial
indicators and other machinist tools, but who makes wood cuts closer
than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?

Right now, I'm running around trying to bum pipe clamps from my
neighbors.

nb


FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
accurate than that for pieces to fit together.

On 2016-03-21, Swingman wrote:

Too bad.

Yes. It is sad.

Nothing at all wrong with the newer injection molded plastic Kreg
jigs.

In yer opinion.

I've already dealt with enough plastic in my life. I'm getting into
woodworking cuz I wanna get away from plastic.

Yeah, I know. There is still gonna be tons o' plastic around the
shop. Try and find some hand power tools that are still all metal,
like my '70 Milwaukee all-metal-casing 1/2" drill motor. Fat chance.

I'm cleaning out my late mother's property. Jes today, I've already
found 3 almost new pwr tools. Two corded orb sanders (hope one has a
dust blwr) and and an ultra cheap B&D bat drill motor. Now I have 3
orb sanders, four battery drill motors, 2 Skil saws (gave the
worm-drive away), and they all are mostly plastic construction.

Another reason I dislike plastic: Know what a Robot Coupe immersion
blender is?

http://www.basequipment.com/Robot-Coupe-MP550-TURBO-21-Immersion-Blender-p/rob-mp550.htm

Our model cost over $600, yet it fell over in the kitchen and the
plastic handle broke into a dozen pieces when it hit the kitchen floor
(which is always present). Oops! Last time I saw it, it was a Red
Green special.

nb

On 2016-03-21, Swingman wrote:

as there is a no more shoddy way to build a drawer than to use
biscuit joinery ... a guaranteed, unarguably, misguided FAIL from
the get go.

Not the way I plan to go. Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool.

I was thinking the cheapest entry would be box joints. Buy a good saw,
a good chisel, and some glue. Then, borrow a boatload of clamps.

Anyone make a good joinery saw fer under $50? (saw handle). No way I
can afford one of those Rob Cosman thingies. 8|

nb

On 2016-03-21, Swingman wrote:

A 1/64" gap on a joint is readily apparent.

Yeah, I know. I usta be able to judge a .005" gap. Now I'm old.
Gotta wear cheaters.

nb

On 2016-03-21, Swingman wrote:

A good, medium strong joint for the plywood drawer box is a locking
rabbet joint [...] and is MUCH stronger than a biscuit joint for the
repeated forces a drawer must eventually withstand.

I thought the biscuit joint would be stronger. I'll hafta look up a
"locking rabbet joint".

The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
"locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.

Keep in mind that many full service hardwood lumber yards carry
pre-finished, plywood drawer side material, in varying widths (but
usually 6' lengths), with a groove pre-cut for 1/4" plywood bottoms,
which can also be found pre-finished with the same polyurethane finish
as the sides.

I'm in the boonies, the high Colorado Rockies, so no HDs or Lowe's
around here. Heck, the lumber yards aren't even open on Sun!

nb

On 2016-03-21, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
accurate than that for pieces to fit together.

As an ex-machinist, I have some rather accurate measuring tools.
Metric is not a problem.

nb

On 3/21/2016 4:58 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-21, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
accurate than that for pieces to fit together.

As an ex-machinist, I have some rather accurate measuring tools.
Metric is not a problem.

nb


;~)
FWIW you can get tooooooo anal. I don't know how small you can measure
but anything finer than 1/128" gets confusing fast with the
inconsistencies of sheet goods and milled lumber.

I use a $35 digital caliper that shows thousandths", 1/128" and mm and
it is almost too detailed.

I am starting to see advantages of going strictly metric except for one
fact. Hardware is very often set up with metric lengths and sizes
however I cant tell you how many times I have seen metric instructions
indicating to measure fractions/hundredths of a millimeter.

A good example are full extension drawer slides. Almost everything
about them is in millimeters except their width, which is commonly 1/2".

Another funny one is Leigh Jigs. Directions to upgrade your current
older jig. The instructions on the last page on the below link ask that
you drill holes at 4.37mm and 3.57mm in diameter. Aside from that the
jig is metric, IIRC.

;~)
FWIW you can get tooooooo anal. I don't know how small you can measure
but anything finer than 1/128" gets confusing fast with the
inconsistencies of sheet goods and milled lumber.

I use a $35 digital caliper that shows thousandths", 1/128" and mm and
it is almost too detailed.

I am starting to see advantages of going strictly metric except for one
fact. Hardware is very often set up with metric lengths and sizes
however I cant tell you how many times I have seen metric instructions
indicating to measure fractions/hundredths of a millimeter.

A good example are full extension drawer slides. Almost everything
about them is in millimeters except their width, which is commonly 1/2".

Another funny one is Leigh Jigs. Directions to upgrade your current
older jig. The instructions on the last page on the below link ask that
you drill holes at 4.37mm and 3.57mm in diameter. Aside from that the
jig is metric, IIRC.


https://www.leighjigs.com/download/S...0Dec8%2015.pdf

On 2016-03-21, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

https://www.leighjigs.com/download/S...0Dec8%2015.pdf

Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.

nb

On 3/21/2016 7:55 PM, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-21, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

https://www.leighjigs.com/download/S...0Dec8%2015.pdf

Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.

nb

Understood. ;~)

notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-21, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

https://www.leighjigs.com/download/S...0Dec8%2015.pdf

Sorry. I don't dwnld PDF files proffered in newsgroups. Thnx anyway.

nb


Then why bother to even ask questions on a forum like this. Maybe you
should just go on in the way that you you to be the best.

--
-Mike-