I'm brand new here. This forum was recommended by a friend. I'm an avid DIY-er but finishes are not my specialty.

The problem:
I built a steam radiator cover (out of red oak) for my 8mth old son's room (turned out great). The minwax oil based fast drying semigloss polyurethane has not dried properly and is giving off a smell as the radiator heats up.. I'm concerned about safety (fumes) so I have removed the cover until I can fix the problem.

The finishing process:
We live in a small 2 bed APT in NYC, so I have less than ideal circumstances for woodworking.

For the first coat I applied the polyurethane directly to the (sanded/wiped clean) surface of the wood. *it it possible that the can was not stirred well enough. * the first coat was possibly thick but had no runs. I sat outside my apt in the sun waiting for the finish to off-gas. After an hour I brought it inside to cure.

After 4 hours the finish seemed cured (the can recommends 3-4hrs). I sanded with 220 and wiped clean with a slightly damp cloth.

For the second coat (around 9pm) I had to change location, so I applied the finish standing inside our apt with the project sitting outside on the fire escape (on a cardboard box to catch drips). It was cold - about 50 degrees. I left it out there to off-gas for an hour, then brought it inside to cute overnight. *Again the can was possibly not stirred well enough.

The next day everything seemed fine other than a slight oily film (like the project had the tiniest film of cooking oil over it). I figured it would harden with heat and time, so I attached the aluminum mesh and installed it.... And now we have the problem.

Thoughts, guys? I'd love to avoid sanding this whole thing back to bare wood (as it will be by hand on my kitchen floor).

wrote in
:

I'm brand new here. This forum was recommended by a friend. I'm an
avid DIY-er but finishes are not my specialty.

The problem:
I built a steam radiator cover (out of red oak) for my 8mth old son's
room (turned out great). The minwax oil based fast drying semigloss
polyurethane has not dried properly and is giving off a smell as the
radiator heats up. I'm concerned about safety (fumes) so I have
removed the cover until I can fix the problem.

In my experience poly smells for a while. It seems that
whatever formula Minwax is using now is worse than it was
10 or so years ago, too.

In any event, my first thought would be to just leave it
awhile - the smell will probably go away in a week or so.

My second thought is, you could try sealing it with shellac.

FWIW, shellac is a non-toxic finish (they coat M&Ms with it),
so if you're making other kid-stuff that needs a finish you
might consider it. Altho toys and things like that are
generally best left bare wood.

John

On Saturday, October 25, 2014 12:12:16 PM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:

In my experience poly smells for a while. It seems that
whatever formula Minwax is using now is worse than it was
10 or so years ago, too.

The formula was changed to accommodate the newer VOC concerns.

In any event, my first thought would be to just leave it
awhile - the smell will probably go away in a week or so.

I agree with John. Just let it sit a good while.

*First coat applied on raw wood: Some has soaked in, a bit, so it would take longer to dry, than what the can says. Would have been good to let it dry overnight. Despite the short time before recoating, it should cure, properly, after a good week.

So, until then, the penalty assessed is: Your son sleeps with Mom and you sleep on the couch!

Sonny

Thanks, John. I'll definitely look into shellac.

Update: the finish seems fine until I run fingers over it. There is a slight oily residue that comes off on my fingers. This hasn't gone away after a week. Is this normal for poly??

On Sat, 25 Oct 2014 08:35:19 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm brand new here. This forum was recommended by a friend. I'm an avid DIY-er but finishes are not my specialty.

The problem:
I built a steam radiator cover (out of red oak) for my 8mth old son's room (turned out great). The minwax oil based fast drying semigloss polyurethane has not dried properly and is giving off a smell as the radiator heats up. I'm concerned about safety (fumes) so I have removed the cover until I can fix the problem.

The finishing process:
We live in a small 2 bed APT in NYC, so I have less than ideal circumstances for woodworking.

For the first coat I applied the polyurethane directly to the (sanded/wiped clean) surface of the wood. *it it possible that the can was not stirred well enough. * the first coat was possibly thick but had no runs. I sat outside my apt in the sun waiting for the finish to off-gas. After an hour I brought it inside to cure.

After 4 hours the finish seemed cured (the can recommends 3-4hrs). I sanded with 220 and wiped clean with a slightly damp cloth.

For the second coat (around 9pm) I had to change location, so I applied the finish standing inside our apt with the project sitting outside on the fire escape (on a cardboard box to catch drips). It was cold - about 50 degrees. I left it out there to off-gas for an hour, then brought it inside to cute overnight. *Again the can was possibly not stirred well enough.

The next day everything seemed fine other than a slight oily film (like the project had the tiniest film of cooking oil over it). I figured it would harden with heat and time, so I attached the aluminum mesh and installed it... And now we have the problem.

Thoughts, guys? I'd love to avoid sanding this whole thing back to bare wood (as it will be by hand on my kitchen floor).

Your concern about not stirring the polyurethane well enough is
unwarranted. The thicker contents at the bottom of the can that needs
stirring will only effect the sheen. That contents is not present in
the clear gloss polyurethane and that is why that polyurethane is
glossy.

Don't be too concerned about the smell unless it really bothers you or
your son. It will stop soon. When polyurethane is curing it gives off
those fumes. The off-gassing is exacerbated when it is heated such as
being near a radiator.

wrote in message


After 4 hours the finish seemed cured (the can recommends 3-4hrs). I
sanded with 220 and wiped clean with a slightly damp cloth.

It may be dry to the touch but it won't be cured for at least two weeks,
month is closer.

I hope you dried it after wiping with before the damp cloth before
applying coat #2.
____________

For the second coat (around 9pm) I had to change location, so I applied
the finish standing inside our apt with the project sitting outside on
the fire escape (on a cardboard box to catch drips). It was cold - about
50 degrees. I left it out there to off-gas for an hour, then brought it
inside to cute overnight. *Again the can was possibly not stirred well
enough.

The next day everything seemed fine other than a slight oily film (like
the project had the tiniest film of cooking oil over it). I figured it
would harden with heat and time, so I attached the aluminum mesh and
installed it... And now we have the problem.

If it had an oily film, regardless of how slight, you didn't stir it
enough. The 50 degree weather didn't help either.
__________________

Thoughts, guys? I'd love to avoid sanding this whole thing back to bare
wood (as it will be by hand on my kitchen floor).

Try wiping it down well with paint thinner. If the oily film goes away,
scuff sand and apply another coat after stirring well. "Well" = twice
what you think it needs.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

wrote:
Thanks, John. I'll definitely look into shellac.

Update: the finish seems fine until I run fingers over it. There is
a slight oily residue that comes off on my fingers. This hasn't gone
away after a week. Is this normal for poly??

Not in my experience - at all. After 24 hours it should be completely dry
to the touch - no residue, no oily residue. After 24 hours I scuff it down
with a 3M pad and re-coat. Works every time. You absolutely should not get
an oily feel from poly.

--

-Mike-

On 10/25/2014 3:38 PM, wrote:
Thanks, John. I'll definitely look into shellac.

Update: the finish seems fine until I run fingers over it. There is a slight oily residue that comes off on my fingers. This hasn't gone away after a week. Is this normal for poly??

do not apply shellac, it's not very good with heat.
It's a great finish, but it does not like heat.
I would have waited 24 hours before recoating.
Then I would wait a week before putting it to use.

Just wait and see what happens.

I'm not a big poly user, but I don't think you need to stir it.


--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:


I'm not a big poly user, but I don't think you need to stir it.

Yes Jeff - you do need to stir it. With any poly - not just with satin
finishes, stir slowly and don't shake. You don't want to introduce air
bubbles into poly which will happen when shaking it. That though does not
apply to the OP's question about an oily feel. I can't figure out how he's
getting that - it's just not what one would expect from poly. If I were
him, I'd scuff it down and re-apply with proper stirring.

--

-Mike-

On 10/25/2014 6:24 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:

That though does not
apply to the OP's question about an oily feel. I can't figure out how he's
getting that - it's just not what one would expect from poly. If I were
him, I'd scuff it down and re-apply with proper stirring.


That would be step two. Step one is to put a coat on a scrap of wood
Let it dry, sand, recoat as you did on the original. If it is properly
dried, I'd think operator error on the first try. If it is oily, I'd
think possibly something wrong with the poly. Very odd that would
happen though.

Mike Marlow wrote:

That though does not
apply to the OP's question about an oily feel. I can't figure out
how he's
getting that - it's just not what one would expect from poly. If I
were
him, I'd scuff it down and re-apply with proper stirring.
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

That would be step two. Step one is to put a coat on a scrap of
wood Let it dry, sand, recoat as you did on the original. If it is
properly dried, I'd think operator error on the first try. If it is
oily, I'd think possibly something wrong with the poly. Very odd
that would happen though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
One of the reasons I left Ohio was to get away from weather
problems like this.

The only way to do it was down in the heated basement, apply
a coat and allow a week to cure between coats and learning
to live with the stink.

Based on what I read so far, it's time to go to Goodwill and buy
a bag of rags, then to HD for a gallon of denatured alcohol.

Wipe as much of the defective material as possible, then sand
out starting with 150 grit using the +/- 45 degree bias method.

When finished sanding, WAIT a WEEK before applying new
material that has been prepared like Bond's martini.

(Don't bruise it.)grin

Wipe the surface down one final time before applying new finish.

And now the tough part, keep the piece INSIDE and learn
to live with the stink while it dries.

After the 2nd or 3rd day, the stink won't be so bad.

DAMHIKT.

Lew

On 10/25/2014 2:38 PM, wrote:
Thanks, John. I'll definitely look into shellac.

Update: the finish seems fine until I run fingers over it. There is a slight oily residue that comes off on my fingers. This hasn't gone away after a week. Is this normal for poly??



Not normal. Is that "new" can of finish?

On 10/25/2014 11:25 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:

That though does not
apply to the OP's question about an oily feel. I can't figure out
how he's
getting that - it's just not what one would expect from poly. If I
were
him, I'd scuff it down and re-apply with proper stirring.
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

That would be step two. Step one is to put a coat on a scrap of
wood Let it dry, sand, recoat as you did on the original. If it is
properly dried, I'd think operator error on the first try. If it is
oily, I'd think possibly something wrong with the poly. Very odd
that would happen though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
One of the reasons I left Ohio was to get away from weather
problems like this.

The only way to do it was down in the heated basement, apply
a coat and allow a week to cure between coats and learning
to live with the stink.

Based on what I read so far, it's time to go to Goodwill and buy
a bag of rags, then to HD for a gallon of denatured alcohol.

Wipe as much of the defective material as possible, then sand
out starting with 150 grit using the +/- 45 degree bias method.

When finished sanding, WAIT a WEEK before applying new
material that has been prepared like Bond's martini.

(Don't bruise it.)grin

Wipe the surface down one final time before applying new finish.

And now the tough part, keep the piece INSIDE and learn
to live with the stink while it dries.

After the 2nd or 3rd day, the stink won't be so bad.

DAMHIKT.

Lew




Denatured alcohol won't put a dent in poly..
I'm not sure about acetone..





--
Jeff

Mike Marlow wrote:

That though does not
apply to the OP's question about an oily feel. I can't figure
out
how he's
getting that - it's just not what one would expect from poly. If
I
were
him, I'd scuff it down and re-apply with proper stirring.
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

That would be step two. Step one is to put a coat on a scrap of
wood Let it dry, sand, recoat as you did on the original. If it
is
properly dried, I'd think operator error on the first try. If it
is
oily, I'd think possibly something wrong with the poly. Very odd
that would happen though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

One of the reasons I left Ohio was to get away from weather
problems like this.

The only way to do it was down in the heated basement, apply
a coat and allow a week to cure between coats and learning
to live with the stink.

Based on what I read so far, it's time to go to Goodwill and buy
a bag of rags, then to HD for a gallon of denatured alcohol.

Wipe as much of the defective material as possible, then sand
out starting with 150 grit using the +/- 45 degree bias method.

When finished sanding, WAIT a WEEK before applying new
material that has been prepared like Bond's martini.

(Don't bruise it.)grin

Wipe the surface down one final time before applying new finish.

And now the tough part, keep the piece INSIDE and learn
to live with the stink while it dries.

After the 2nd or 3rd day, the stink won't be so bad.

DAMHIKT.

Lew
--------------------------------------------------

"woodchucker" wrote:

Denatured alcohol won't put a dent in poly..
I'm not sure about acetone..
---------------------------------------------------
If it won't attack "weakened" poly, then it's acetone or xylene time.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:544d9e62$0$46573
:

"woodchucker" wrote:

Denatured alcohol won't put a dent in poly..
I'm not sure about acetone..
---------------------------------------------------
If it won't attack "weakened" poly, then it's acetone or xylene time.

Considering he's worried about an infant in the house, acetone
or xylene is probably the last thing he wants to experiment
with.

John

"John McCoy" wrote:

"woodchucker" wrote:

Denatured alcohol won't put a dent in poly..
I'm not sure about acetone..
---------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

If it won't attack "weakened" poly, then it's acetone or xylene
time.
--------------------------------------------
"John McCoy" wrote:

Considering he's worried about an infant in the house, acetone
or xylene is probably the last thing he wants to experiment
with.
---------------------------------------------
That should probably apply to the total project if the infant can't be
isolated when working on the project.

Basic problem of working inside during winter months.

Lew


Lew

On 10/26/2014 12:51 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/25/2014 2:38 PM, wrote:
Thanks, John. I'll definitely look into shellac.

Update: the finish seems fine until I run fingers over it. There is a
slight oily residue that comes off on my fingers. This hasn't gone
away after a week. Is this normal for poly??



Not normal. Is that "new" can of finish?

I find myself especially curious about this so I'd like to recap.

Its seems we have several factors here, and two questions. The first
question: what accounts for this strange result?

Here are (some of the) possibilities:

1. The state of the can of finish.

Do these have date codes? I have seen some pretty un-saleable things
returned to the shelves of Home Depot. What happens to old poly?

2. Insufficient stirring.

The instructions say to mix thoroughly before - and even during -
application. But what happens if we don't? Is it simply that we will
have a more dilute mixture near the top of the can? If so it's hard to
imagine that causing the reported symptom. After all, some of us have
thinned poly on purpose without that result. Or maybe something else
separates out as well?

3. The temperature.

If I remember correctly, poly "dries" by two processes. First the
solvent evaporates, then the "polymerization" reaction occurs over time.
If memory serves, the second reaction at least (the "curing") is
retarded by lower temperatures. But the piece was eventually brought
into a heated space. Would it then cure properly, even if the process
had been slowed by the lower temperature?

4.The timing.

The online instructions say to wait 4-6 hours between coats. So again,
what happens if we don't wait long enough, "long enough" perhaps being
lengthened by the ambient temperature during the first hour outside?
Does the second coat prevent enough oxygen from getting to the first
coat, perhaps?

5. The radiator heat.

But of course, all of the above is to some degree an academic exercise,
with the possible exception of the condition of the can of finish. What
does Tim do now to fix it?

I'm guessing he finished the inside surfaces of the project as well. So
perhaps the first bit of advice would be to try out a repair strategy on
the inside surfaces. If successful, repeat on the surfaces that will show.

Finishing figures prominently among the topics I'm ignorant about, but
if this were my own project I'd be inclined to try removing the oily
residue with a solvent like mineral spirits. If that seemed successful,
I'd probably scuff the finish a little and reapply poly - from a
different can - just to be safe. I'd stir, and watch the temperature,
and wait a whole day before considering any further coats.

One other thing:

Perhaps, given the apartment setting and his infant son, a water-borne
poly would have been a good choice. I thought I read somewhere that
despite being *carried* by water, the poly is still poly. Does this mean
that he could try water-borne poly over what he's got (with some surface
prep, but without sanding down to bare wood)? Or is there perhaps some
other choice that's sufficiently non-hazardous to do entirely inside his
heated apartment?

Sorry for the long-winded questions (my specialty), but I have taken a
special interest in this young man's predicament for some reason.



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 10/25/2014 4:44 PM, dadiOH wrote:

I hope you dried it after wiping with before the damp cloth before
applying coat #2.

I wondered about that possibility as well. Any one else have thoughts on
this?

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Greg Guarino wrote in
:

4.The timing.

The online instructions say to wait 4-6 hours between coats. So again,
what happens if we don't wait long enough, "long enough" perhaps being
lengthened by the ambient temperature during the first hour outside?
Does the second coat prevent enough oxygen from getting to the first
coat, perhaps?

Like you, finishing isn't really my strong suit. But my
understanding is that, if you recoat too soon, you're basically
just creating one very thick coat. Since the solvent has to
evaporate, and that happens very slowly once a skin forms on
the finish, very thick coats are not recommended...

(I note that professional finishers often spray on coats on a
much shorter schedule than 4-6 hours. But they're spraying, so
a much thinner coat to start with).

Perhaps, given the apartment setting and his infant son, a water-borne
poly would have been a good choice. I thought I read somewhere that
despite being *carried* by water, the poly is still poly.

Water-borne poly is just that, regular poly carried by water.
To be specific, it's regular poly in an emulsion in water.
Once the water evaporates, you're left with the normal poly
solvents (just much less of them).

The only non-hazardous finish that comes to mind is shellac.
But as someone pointed out (and I'd forgotten), that's not
such a good choice with the heat from the radiator.

John

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message


I find myself especially curious about this so I'd like to recap.

Its seems we have several factors here, and two questions. The first
question: what accounts for this strange result?

Here are (some of the) possibilities:

1. The state of the can of finish.

Do these have date codes? I have seen some pretty un-saleable things
returned to the shelves of Home Depot. What happens to old poly?

How old is old? I've used stuff that was at least five years old, maybe
ten, without problems.
_______________

2. Insufficient stirring.

The instructions say to mix thoroughly before - and even during -
application. But what happens if we don't? Is it simply that we will
have a more dilute mixture near the top of the can? If so it's hard to
imagine that causing the reported symptom. After all, some of us have
thinned poly on purpose without that result. Or maybe something else
separates out as well?

If I don't use a can of oil paint for some time the linseed oil separates
out and floats on the top. Stirring gets it mixed back in.

If the varnish is non-glossy, one also has to mix in the flatting
agent...the gelatinous goo in the bottom. Takes lots of mixing. Time was
that the flatting material was talc; now I suspect it is fumed silica.
_________________

If I remember correctly, poly "dries" by two processes. First the
solvent evaporates, then the "polymerization" reaction occurs over time.
If memory serves, the second reaction at least (the "curing") is
retarded by lower temperatures. But the piece was eventually brought
into a heated space. Would it then cure properly, even if the process
had been slowed by the lower temperature?

Can't say for sure but I don't see why not. Regardless, the finish should
NOT have an oily film at any time under any conditions.
_____________________

4.The timing.

The online instructions say to wait 4-6 hours between coats. So again,
what happens if we don't wait long enough, "long enough" perhaps being
lengthened by the ambient temperature during the first hour outside?
Does the second coat prevent enough oxygen from getting to the first
coat, perhaps?

All the floors in my house are Saltillo tile top coated with oil poly. I
apply 3-4 coats in one day, waiting between coats until I can walk on it
without sticking. That is usually 3-4 hours.

I mop on the poly so coat thickness varies considerably. The tile is also
a bit curved so in areas where the coat is particularly thick, it will run
to and pool at the corners between tiles. I try to avoid that, I look for
and smooth out any I see, but it is pretty much inevitable that I'll miss
some. In the thickest spots, the poly winds up 1/16" thick - maybe more -
but eventually dries and cures.
_________________

5. The radiator heat.

But of course, all of the above is to some degree an academic exercise,
with the possible exception of the condition of the can of finish. What
does Tim do now to fix it?

I'm guessing he finished the inside surfaces of the project as well. So
perhaps the first bit of advice would be to try out a repair strategy on
the inside surfaces. If successful, repeat on the surfaces that will
show.

Finishing figures prominently among the topics I'm ignorant about, but
if this were my own project I'd be inclined to try removing the oily
residue with a solvent like mineral spirits.

ONLY mineral spirits or other similar (paint thinner, turpentine).

If that seemed successful,
I'd probably scuff the finish a little and reapply poly - from a
different can - just to be safe. I'd stir, and watch the temperature,
and wait a whole day before considering any further coats.

If you wait a day, you have to sand between coats. The "window of
opportunity" for recoating without sanding stops at about eight hours
IIRC.

I would also want to assess the condition of the varnish once/if the oily
residue can be removed.
_________________

One other thing:

Perhaps, given the apartment setting and his infant son, a water-borne
poly would have been a good choice. I thought I read somewhere that
despite being *carried* by water, the poly is still poly.

Sort of. It is polycarbonate + acrylic. Oil poly is polycarbonate +
(probably) alkyd, could be phenolic but not likely.

Water base stuff has two useful features: 1., it doesn't color the wood
and 2., it washes out of applicators. When you get those you give up
hardness, durability and longevity.
________________

Does this mean
that he could try water-borne poly over what he's got (with some surface
prep, but without sanding down to bare wood)? Or is there perhaps some
other choice that's sufficiently non-hazardous to do entirely inside his
heated apartment?

Once cured, you can put water poly over oil poly and vice versa.
__________________

This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
protection is active. http://www.avast.com

I'm pleased to note that, I will rest easier tonight even though this
isn't email.

PS: I use avast! too but I don't shill for them

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 10/27/2014 12:05 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote in
:

4.The timing.

The online instructions say to wait 4-6 hours between coats. So again,
what happens if we don't wait long enough, "long enough" perhaps being
lengthened by the ambient temperature during the first hour outside?
Does the second coat prevent enough oxygen from getting to the first
coat, perhaps?

Like you, finishing isn't really my strong suit. But my
understanding is that, if you recoat too soon, you're basically
just creating one very thick coat. Since the solvent has to
evaporate, and that happens very slowly once a skin forms on
the finish, very thick coats are not recommended...

(I note that professional finishers often spray on coats on a
much shorter schedule than 4-6 hours. But they're spraying, so
a much thinner coat to start with).

Perhaps, given the apartment setting and his infant son, a water-borne
poly would have been a good choice. I thought I read somewhere that
despite being *carried* by water, the poly is still poly.

Water-borne poly is just that, regular poly carried by water.
To be specific, it's regular poly in an emulsion in water.
Once the water evaporates, you're left with the normal poly
solvents (just much less of them).

The only non-hazardous finish that comes to mind is shellac.
But as someone pointed out (and I'd forgotten), that's not
such a good choice with the heat from the radiator.

John


Actually it can be worse than 1 thick coat.
In some situations the gassing off will cause a problem for the new
coat, rough finish, air bubbles, incomplete cure underneath...

It's not just a thicker coat.

--
Jeff

Personlly, going with daddiOH and Mike Marlow on this one.

Important note to all finishers:

READ, UNDERSTAND, AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN. While many think they know the manufacturer's product better than the manufacturer, this simply isn't true.

Poly will indeed desegregate with the heavier resins going to the bottom of the can and the ligher oils coming to the top. While it may not be apparent to the naked eye, especially when looking down into a can, it happens. Storage in hot weather can really make a difference in how fast this happens, too. (Hint: hotter weather makes the oil rise..)

No doubt, you have the long oils on top of your project. They may not dry for a long time, and if they do, your finish is already fouled. I can tell you as a professional that does this, you cannot "salvage" a finish. You either do it right or wrong, there is nothing in between. Don't spend the next couple of weeks trying to put a band aid on this project. If your poly isn't dry to the touch in a day, unless there are unusual weather conditions, something went wrong. Strip the old stuff off, buy new poly, STIR IT UP, and apply it. Put this behind you and go to the next project.

Robert

On 10/27/2014 3:32 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message


I find myself especially curious about this so I'd like to recap.

Its seems we have several factors here, and two questions. The first
question: what accounts for this strange result?

Here are (some of the) possibilities:

1. The state of the can of finish.

Do these have date codes? I have seen some pretty un-saleable things
returned to the shelves of Home Depot. What happens to old poly?

How old is old? I've used stuff that was at least five years old, maybe
ten, without problems.
_______________

I have stains that are still good after 20 years, once I open a gel
varnish it could be good for 6 weeks to 6 months before beginning to
harden and or not perform correctly. When working on something that is
worth more because of your time and materials involved, if there is the
slightest doubt spend $20 on a new can of varnish.







2. Insufficient stirring.

The instructions say to mix thoroughly before - and even during -
application. But what happens if we don't? Is it simply that we will
have a more dilute mixture near the top of the can? If so it's hard to
imagine that causing the reported symptom. After all, some of us have
thinned poly on purpose without that result. Or maybe something else
separates out as well?

If I don't use a can of oil paint for some time the linseed oil
separates out and floats on the top. Stirring gets it mixed back in.

If the varnish is non-glossy, one also has to mix in the flatting
agent...the gelatinous goo in the bottom. Takes lots of mixing. Time
was that the flatting material was talc; now I suspect it is fumed silica.

And even on gloss varnishes the varnish should be stirred. The delivery
part that evaporates can separate from the protective film left on the
piece.

_________________

If I remember correctly, poly "dries" by two processes. First the
solvent evaporates, then the "polymerization" reaction occurs over time.
If memory serves, the second reaction at least (the "curing") is
retarded by lower temperatures. But the piece was eventually brought
into a heated space. Would it then cure properly, even if the process
had been slowed by the lower temperature?

Can't say for sure but I don't see why not. Regardless, the finish
should NOT have an oily film at any time under any conditions.

I find that too hot, too cold, and too humid can slow down the curing
process.

On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 10:11:04 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 10/27/2014 3:32 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino"

I find myself especially curious about this so I'd like to recap.

what accounts for this strange result?
re are (some of the) possibilities:

1. The state of the can of finish.

How old is old?

3) How much was the can stirred, in the first place?

This seems to be a good case study, at any rate.

No matter! For now and for the OP's sake, I doubt the project is ruined and we may never know, exactly, the problem. Clean off the oil film, scuff the finish (as DadiOH says) and let it sit/cure, some more. I think, as long as the second coat doesn't start peeling off, it should be fine.

As long as there's no more fumes, oders, etc., the baby should be safe. Cover the radiator and wait until next spring/summer to recoat or redo the finish, if need be.

Maybe keep us posted, as to subsequent drying/curing results or further problems, so we can explore the problem solving, some more.

Finish formulas have changed (15-20 yrs ago?), to accommodate new VOC regs and concerns, yet many of the can's instructions remained the same. Unless you have perfect weather and other conditions, etc., drying and curing times may very well vary, from the ideal, and remedies, for mistakes, can be aggravating, not only for a novice, but for the experienced, as well.

Sonny
"Experienced" woodworkers use this time-tested remedy: Postpone the project until next year. That's why we have so many ongoing projects in our shops.

On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:50:58 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Finish formulas have changed (15-20 yrs ago?), to accommodate new VOC regs and concerns, yet many of the can's instructions remained the same. Unless you have perfect weather and other conditions, etc., drying and curing times may very well vary, from the ideal, and remedies, for mistakes, can be aggravating, not only for a novice, but for the experienced, as well.


Formulas for most states (of course with the huge exception of CA) didn't change much 20 or so years ago. The labels did. The instructions became 50% warnings about how dangerous the product was.

About 15 years or so ago product ingredients changed all for the best and so did application methods and protocols. Better resins, better synthetic oils, better product/quality control, and better application research started to come to the front of the line. When I took a class at the Sherwin Williams commercial coatings division traveling seminars, it was fascinating. They loaded me up with all kinds of practical and technical information, product manuals, etc. And better still, I got to talk to some of the guys that had actually applied the products.

I realized then how awful finishing is for the home guy. They don't like it (the battle cry of "I am a woodworker, not a painter") still rings in my ears from time to time. So the average woodworker learns exactly enough to get by. And, when they find something they like, THEY NEVER CHANGE.

I am being bit silly here, but it is almost like "Robert, I would paint the house myself, but with my wipe on products it might take me a while, and probably 10,000 cans of finish."

I spotted this trend at least 15 years back, and realized that "finishing" also known as "paintin", "stainin" and "varnishin" is widely viewed as a voodoo art. I rarely meet folks that read the cans, follow the protocols and procedures, and interface with the manufacturer. So finishing becomes almost folkloric, with bits and pieces of "knowledge" passed around on a slow day over coffee, or in an emergency situation like this one. Anything is better than doing the right prep, following the instructions on the can (what... read the instructions?), and the worst bugaboo of all... practicing your technique.

It is much more fun to sit and chat knowingly about a simple finish that is a favorite, and offer suggestions to others that in the end amount to passing verbal gas. Pure conjecture. I have heard more downright bull**** about finishing than just about any other craft. It is a craft unto itself, so how the guy that had literally applied finish to a hand full of pieces that only uses one or two finishes feels capable of dispensing advice, I don't know.

Folks that finish one piece a year (but have been doing one piece a year for 20 years)feel free to opine their expert opinion, because afterall, they have been doing it for 20 years! BTW, this isn't a slap at non professionals, many "professionals" are just as frickin' bad about not following instructions or learning their finishing products.

Anyone can pull off good finishing, just follow the instructions on the can.. That's what stumps me. Today's finishes are so good, so forgiving, and so easy to apply (follow the instructions) I don't really understand fouled finishes on projects made with new materials.

You are a professional finisher when you know your products well enough to know what VOC of solvent to thin with depending on the day's weather, you know which tip you want in your gun because there is a difference in "hanging" a coating and "laying" it out. You are fluent with paints, coatings, clear coats, and their application and methods of application. Better still, you understand prep.

For everyone else, just follow the instructions on the can. No guessing on application techniques from others, no folkloric advice from around the camp fire, no Google experts needed, and no "I know a guy that does this XXXXX this way... I haven't tried it, but he swears by it" thus divesting himself from any responsibility for his answer.

Robert

wrote:


Folks that finish one piece a year (but have been doing one piece a
year for 20 years)feel free to opine their expert opinion, because
afterall, they have been doing it for 20 years! BTW, this isn't a
slap at non professionals, many "professionals" are just as frickin'
bad about not following instructions or learning their finishing
products.

Preach it brother! I find this even in the world of "professional
automotive refinishers". These are the guys who are supposed to be tuned
into things like MSDS sheets, manufacturer's specifications, etc. but in
reality are seat of the pants-got lucky on that last job, sorts of guys. I
talk with manufacturers all of the time to confirm my notions that mix A can
really be compatible with mix B from a different manufacturer -or why that
may not be the case, and often enough there is a real reason why what seems
innocent, really isn't. Too many people think they're chemists because they
took a chemestry course in college 40 years ago and really don't have a clue
how thing interact - especially with today's compounds.


Anyone can pull off good finishing, just follow the instructions on
the can. That's what stumps me. Today's finishes are so good, so
forgiving, and so easy to apply (follow the instructions) I don't
really understand fouled finishes on projects made with new
materials.

Time to pass the bread and the wine - and the collection basket! Preach it
brother!


You are a professional finisher when you know your products well
enough to know what VOC of solvent to thin with depending on the
day's weather, you know which tip you want in your gun because there
is a difference in "hanging" a coating and "laying" it out. You are
fluent with paints, coatings, clear coats, and their application and
methods of application. Better still, you understand prep.

And to this very day, I still shoot test panels - if only on a paper backer
taped up to the wall, if weather conditions are not exactly within the
definition of "normal". And... I look at that damned paper to see what is
happening - not just to see that I could seemingly shoot a spray that should
work. Man - I've screwed up enough paint jobs by thinking that conditions
were well within the range of a medium speed reducer and temps were fine
and, and, and... only to be stymied by hangs and runs that never should have
happened. Or had interactions between color coats and clear coats all for
the want of 5 more minutes of flash time. I know these interactions pretty
damned well, but I also know that there are factors that escape any attempt
to simply formulize this stuff.


For everyone else, just follow the instructions on the can. No
guessing on application techniques from others, no folkloric advice
from around the camp fire, no Google experts needed, and no "I know a
guy that does this XXXXX this way... I haven't tried it, but he
swears by it" thus divesting himself from any responsibility for his
answer.

And... just test everything you embark on. Testing is cheap and easy.
Re-working is not.

--

-Mike-

wrote in message

On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:50:58 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

I spotted this trend at least 15 years back, and realized that
"finishing" also known as "paintin", "stainin" and "varnishin" is
widely
viewed as a voodoo art.

I agree with all you wrote but snipped most in the interest of brevity.

It seems to me that the manufacturers themselves are at least partially
responsible ofr the "voodoo art" concept. Take spar varnish for one
example...thanks mostly to the manufacturers, the average Joe thinks spar
varnish is a superior, harder varnish. Not true. Heck, I don't even know
if what is labled as such IS spar varnish. I do know that it isn't easy
to find a plain old alkyd one.

Teak oil is another. Oil FROM teak? Nope. Oil FOR teak? Sure...and for
any other wood.

Minwax's Polycrylic is another. Is it multiple acrylics? Polyurethane +
acrylic? I won't even get into the puffery by many such as "rock hard".

I would like to know what things are without having to delve into the
MSDS/Tech sheets.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 10/30/2014 2:13 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:50:58 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Finish formulas have changed (15-20 yrs ago?), to accommodate new VOC regs and concerns, yet many of the can's instructions remained the same. Unless you have perfect weather and other conditions, etc., drying and curing times may very well vary, from the ideal, and remedies, for mistakes, can be aggravating, not only for a novice, but for the experienced, as well.


Formulas for most states (of course with the huge exception of CA) didn't change much 20 or so years ago. The labels did. The instructions became 50% warnings about how dangerous the product was.

About 15 years or so ago product ingredients changed all for the best and so did application methods and protocols. Better resins, better synthetic oils, better product/quality control, and better application research started to come to the front of the line. When I took a class at the Sherwin Williams commercial coatings division traveling seminars, it was fascinating. They loaded me up with all kinds of practical and technical information, product manuals, etc. And better still, I got to talk to some of the guys that had actually applied the products.

I realized then how awful finishing is for the home guy. They don't like it (the battle cry of "I am a woodworker, not a painter") still rings in my ears from time to time. So the average woodworker learns exactly enough to get by. And, when they find something they like, THEY NEVER CHANGE.

I am being bit silly here, but it is almost like "Robert, I would paint the house myself, but with my wipe on products it might take me a while, and probably 10,000 cans of finish."

I spotted this trend at least 15 years back, and realized that "finishing" also known as "paintin", "stainin" and "varnishin" is widely viewed as a voodoo art. I rarely meet folks that read the cans, follow the protocols and procedures, and interface with the manufacturer. So finishing becomes almost folkloric, with bits and pieces of "knowledge" passed around on a slow day over coffee, or in an emergency situation like this one. Anything is better than doing the right prep, following the instructions on the can (what... read the instructions?), and the worst bugaboo of all... practicing your technique.

It is much more fun to sit and chat knowingly about a simple finish that is a favorite, and offer suggestions to others that in the end amount to passing verbal gas. Pure conjecture. I have heard more downright bull**** about finishing than just about any other craft. It is a craft unto itself, so how the guy that had literally applied finish to a hand full of pieces that only uses one or two finishes feels capable of dispensing advice, I don't know.

Folks that finish one piece a year (but have been doing one piece a year for 20 years)feel free to opine their expert opinion, because afterall, they have been doing it for 20 years! BTW, this isn't a slap at non professionals, many "professionals" are just as frickin' bad about not following instructions or learning their finishing products.

Anyone can pull off good finishing, just follow the instructions on the can. That's what stumps me. Today's finishes are so good, so forgiving, and so easy to apply (follow the instructions) I don't really understand fouled finishes on projects made with new materials.

You are a professional finisher when you know your products well enough to know what VOC of solvent to thin with depending on the day's weather, you know which tip you want in your gun because there is a difference in "hanging" a coating and "laying" it out. You are fluent with paints, coatings, clear coats, and their application and methods of application. Better still, you understand prep.

For everyone else, just follow the instructions on the can. No guessing on application techniques from others, no folkloric advice from around the camp fire, no Google experts needed, and no "I know a guy that does this XXXXX this way... I haven't tried it, but he swears by it" thus divesting himself from any responsibility for his answer.

Robert


LOL. no kidding...... I took me 8 separate quarts of Old Masters gel
varnish to get the hang if it. I think I am on my 4th case now and I am
happy once again. Reading the instructions and not reading anything
into the instructions helps.

wrote:

I spotted this trend at least 15 years back, and realized that
"finishing" also known as "paintin", "stainin" and "varnishin" is
widely
viewed as a voodoo art.
--------------------------------------------------------

"dadiOH" wrote:

I agree with all you wrote but snipped most in the interest of
brevity.

It seems to me that the manufacturers themselves are at least
partially responsible ofr the "voodoo art" concept. Take spar
varnish for one example...thanks mostly to the manufacturers, the
average Joe thinks spar varnish is a superior, harder varnish. Not
true. Heck, I don't even know if what is labled as such IS spar
varnish. I do know that it isn't easy to find a plain old alkyd
one.
---------------------------------------------------------

Amen.

Lew




Teak oil is another. Oil FROM teak? Nope. Oil FOR teak?
Sure...and for any other wood.

Minwax's Polycrylic is another. Is it multiple acrylics?
Polyurethane + acrylic? I won't even get into the puffery by many
such as "rock hard".

I would like to know what things are without having to delve into
the MSDS/Tech sheets.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in :

It seems to me that the manufacturers themselves are at least
partially responsible ofr the "voodoo art" concept. Take spar varnish
for one example...thanks mostly to the manufacturers, the average Joe
thinks spar varnish is a superior, harder varnish. Not true. Heck, I
don't even know if what is labled as such IS spar varnish. I do know
that it isn't easy to find a plain old alkyd one.

I'll agree with you on that specific one. Mass-market
manufacturers putting random crap in the big-box stores
and calling it "spar varnish" does no-one any good. Use
a real spar varnish, like Petit or Epifanes and you
quickly see the difference.

BTW, for those not familiar with it, spar varnish is _not_
harder than other varnish, it's softer. That's because
it's intended to go on spars, and not crack when the spar
flexes with the wind.

John

On Thursday, October 30, 2014 2:13:24 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 11:50:58 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Finish formulas have changed (15-20 yrs ago?), ......


Formulas for most states (of course with the huge exception of CA) didn't change much 20 or so years ago. The labels did. The instructions became 50% warnings about how dangerous the product was.

About 15 years or so ago product ingredients changed all for the best and so did application methods and protocols. Better resins, better synthetic oils, better product/quality control, and better application research started to come to the front of the line. .....

I kinna feel like I got castigated, here, and, to some extent, rightly so. I don't mind, at all, being guided in the right direction.

Gradully, over those years, many things changed, with respect to finishing products. For us non-experts, these changes can be confusing. For someone as I, and likely the OP (my reasoning), finding one or two finishes and techniques and, somewhat, mastering those, is also reasonable. But this wasn't the crux of my post. I suppose I shouldn't have commented about any of this. It has nothing to do with fixing his problem.

The OP's project is not fine furniture, requiring absolute expert finishing.. He seemed to be concerned that he might have to strip and refinish the radiator cover, maybe even if the project was ruined, and the concern for the baby.

With the info we have, it's unlikely the project is ruined, it's unlikely it may need to be stripped and refinished, if he allows time for more curing, and if more curing solves the odors/fumes issue, then the concerns for the baby should be resolved. I was also treating the "patient", to be patient with his project, not just treating the project.

Despite the probable mistakes involved, a fix, to his finish, is likely available with a little patience, allowing the finish to dry or cure a little longer. We can't fix his problem, from our distance, but we can guide him, to the best of our experience, for him to have the best confidence in his work, to have the best immediate finishing results, possible (I assume he wants the cover installed ASAP), and for him to have confidence that everything will be safe for the baby.

I suppose the spirit of our words don't always get posted, as we are thinking of them, as we write.

Sonny

On 10/30/14, 8:03 PM, John McCoy wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in :

It seems to me that the manufacturers themselves are at least
partially responsible ofr the "voodoo art" concept. Take spar varnish
for one example...thanks mostly to the manufacturers, the average Joe
thinks spar varnish is a superior, harder varnish. Not true. Heck, I
don't even know if what is labled as such IS spar varnish. I do know
that it isn't easy to find a plain old alkyd one.

I'll agree with you on that specific one. Mass-market
manufacturers putting random crap in the big-box stores
and calling it "spar varnish" does no-one any good. Use
a real spar varnish, like Petit or Epifanes and you
quickly see the difference.


You can smell the difference too!

I inherited several cans of "Helmsman" spar urethane and used it on an
outdoor project. It smelled exactly like Minwax poly, albeit a bit
thicker. It started flaking in about a year. I bought some Epifanes for
a different outdoor item and the first thing I noticed was the (rather
rank) odor. Wayyyy different from the Helmsman. Although the item is
mounted on a north facing exterior wall and is somewhat protected, it
has held up fine for the past 4 years.

-BR


BTW, for those not familiar with it, spar varnish is _not_
harder than other varnish, it's softer. That's because
it's intended to go on spars, and not crack when the spar
flexes with the wind.

John



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Friday, October 31, 2014 8:48:07 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:


I kinna feel like I got castigated, here, and, to some extent, rightly so.. I don't mind, at all, being guided in the right direction.

I hope you don't feel that way because of my post. I take for granted we are all guys here, and when I am in "contractor" mode, I tend to write and speak as I do when on the job. Besides, remember what I post is my opinion, based on my experience(s). It certainly isn't anything written in stone.

Sometimes too, I tend to skip the niceties. I am around contractors, sub contractors, vendors and such all day long and our language and while polite, our interface with one another can be extremely crisp and brief.

Gradully, over those years, many things changed, with respect to finishing products. For us non-experts, these changes can be confusing. For someone as I, and likely the OP (my reasoning), finding one or two finishes and techniques and, somewhat, mastering those, is also reasonable. But this wasn't the crux of my post. I suppose I shouldn't have commented about any of this. It has nothing to do with fixing his problem.

I disagree. These threads rarely stay exactly on topic and often times that leads to another adjoining issue that is pertinent to the discussion. I say "fire away" and let the chips fall where they will. No one owns this joint and everyone is entitled to post as they please.

The OP's project is not fine furniture, requiring absolute expert finishing. He seemed to be concerned that he might have to strip and refinish the radiator cover, maybe even if the project was ruined, and the concern for the baby.

With the info we have, it's unlikely the project is ruined, it's unlikely it may need to be stripped and refinished, if he allows time for more curing, and if more curing solves the odors/fumes issue, then the concerns for the baby should be resolved. I was also treating the "patient", to be patient with his project, not just treating the project.


In all likelihood, the project is fine, but the finish is not. If you have a finish that should dry to the touch in a few hours, and it is still oily after a few days, that should be a signal that things are screwed up. If you poured concrete and it didn't get hard in a day, you would know something was wrong. If you painted a wall and it was "wet" for a few days, you would understand that things weren't right. If you laid brick and the mortar didn't set up, you would assume something went wrong.

Here's what I don't get. The finish OP describes stays oily for a few days and no one thinks that much of it, and is actually advised all could be well with patience. So to boil it down, there is an application of an incorrectly mixed solution to a surface that, since it was not mixed well (specifically using the product NOT as designed), refuses to create the chemical reaction it is designed to do. So the application is fouled, as is the final product.

Even if the coating finally "dries", no doubt it will not perform as intended.

What grinds my gears is the folks that advise "repairs" and "things to try" based on rumor and hearsay. No professional finisher or even an experienced home finisher would advise some of the nonsense that shows up. For example, you clearly have a non miscible, oil finish that is being used. Why would you put shellac ON TOP of a non bondable substrate to begin with, and worse, why would you put a finish on top of wet finish that uses a completely different solvent/carrier? Maybe some of those things might be OK as a completely last ditch effort, but even then, when you have screwed up it is time to move forward.

I AM NOT singling you out or pointing a finger at you. But for the casual poster that taps out reply, sometimes they don't think of the consequences of what they post. Someone might actually TRY the methods they post or the materials they suggest, even if the respondent doesn't have any real knowledge to know if it will work. I have seen many suggestions over the years posted here as advice on repairs that I KNOW have made the problem worse, caused more work, and wasted more time than should have ever happened.

I suppose the spirit of our words don't always get posted, as we are thinking of them, as we write.


True enough. It is difficult to get the intent of the spoken word to the page, and it all sounds different to each of us. As we do more and more interfacing by way of keyboard, I always try to think twice before I post to see if my post was too offensive, or if I could tone down my response if I was in torch mode.

All the best to you, Sonny. I enjoy your posts.

Robert

Hey guys!

OP back with an update.

Like any dad, woodworking time is limited. So, partly because of lack of time and partly out of hope that the finish would continue to cure, I have made no change to the 2x coats already applied.

The results:
The oily residue has gone. Once I noticed this (1.5 weeks after application), I decided to put the cover back into action. The finish looks great, and I would have no reason for concern other than, the finish still gives off a smell when the radiator gets hot.

I have been careful to air out the room and limit time spent when the odor is strong. BUT I am concerned about 2x things 1) is this odor dangerous 2) dangerous or not it is not pleasant

I have time today. Thinking that the best answer is to

1) remove the aluminum mesh. Remove reflectix reflective lining covering the inside of the top. Top is 4"x32".
2) scuff the finish back with 220
3) wipe with paint thinner to remove dust and any oily residue that may still exist (ie possibly under the lining inside)
4) STIR THE CAN. This is 100% the problem. I'm convinced that the can is fine. The problem was that I did not stir well enough. (I will never make that mistake again.)
5) re coat with final coat indoors (heated/shared basement area)

Any thoughts or tips? The de-construction of mesh (many staples) and lining is not an insignificant task, but I suspect will be worth the effort.

Another update:

I disassembled the reflectix lining. As suspected, the finish underneath was still smelly and had some of that oily residue (very minor). This had obviously not cured as well as the exposed finish.

So...

Mesh is still attached. New plan is to leave the lining out for a few days/week to see if the smell goes away. I'll put the cover next to another radiator so it has the heat to help the process.

How's my rationale here, guys. Hoping to avoid possible conflicts with neighbors over a smelly basement.

Oh, to have a working space!!

Tim

On Saturday, November 1, 2014 2:32:03 PM UTC-5, wrote:

I hope you don't feel that way because of my post.

Yes, Robert, but I was aware of where you're coming from. No problem with your guiding us, this way. I always welcome your input. Thanks.

Maybe I should have been more direct.... and taking a cue from DadiOH:
To the OP....
1) wipe the oil off
2) Scuff it
3) Allow it to dry or cure, as best as possible
4) Install the cover, as long as there's no odor to effect the child

*) And since your weather may have contributed to the issue and you have no decent place to work, other than the kitchen table

5)Wait until spring or summer to do any fix that may need to be done.
6) In the meantime, keep us updated, so "we" can further troubleshoot some possible fixes.... *That's what us non-pros do, postpone the project, until a more convenient time, like next year.

One way or the other, there are folks, here, that can and will help solve your problem. That's one reason why I visit, here, often.

Sonny

On 11/1/2014 4:47 PM, wrote:

I have been careful to air out the room and limit time spent when the odor is strong. BUT I am concerned about 2x things

1) is this odor dangerous 2) dangerous or not it is not pleasant



the odor is off gassing and will get better with time. What I can't say
is how much time, but a second coat, properly applied, may seal in
whatever the problem is. Heating is forcing a cure and while
unpleasant, it may shorten the time.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/1/2014 4:47 PM, wrote:

I have been careful to air out the room and limit time spent when the
odor is strong. BUT I am concerned about 2x things

1) is this odor dangerous
Probably more so if you are very young or very old. It's
not the odor, it's the chemicals that are being outgassed that are the
issue. Suggest you open a window daily until you don't notice it anymore
unless you have somewhere else to put it.


2) dangerous or not it is not pleasant



the odor is off gassing and will get better with time. What I can't
say is how much time, but a second coat, properly applied, may seal in
whatever the problem is. Heating is forcing a cure and while
unpleasant, it may shorten the time.