Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k

Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/23/2014 5:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k


Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.


Nice job.

2 things, did you paint blue before putting tiles up in the bathroom or
is that something else?

The shower doors look wrong. Since the shower head is to the left, the
outter sliding door should be on the outside to prevent water from going
between the 2 panes, it looks like the opening is the inside door.



--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k


Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.


Nice job.

2 things, did you paint blue before putting tiles up in the bathroom or
is that something else?

Sealant, we call it "Red Gard", although it is sometimes blue.

The shower doors look wrong. Since the shower head is to the left, the
outter sliding door should be on the outside to prevent water from going
between the 2 panes, it looks like the opening is the inside door.

By design (although not an issue with a properly installed "frameless"
shower door). Keep in mind, as stated, the main use for this shower is for
the handicapped client who will be using the hand held shower head from the
seat opposite the wall mounted shower head. (the "color coordinated" holder
for the handheld unit next to the shower seat is on backorder, as well as
the handheld supply "elbow", thus not pictured.)

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On 1/23/2014 9:05 PM, Swingman wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k


Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.


Nice job.

2 things, did you paint blue before putting tiles up in the bathroom or
is that something else?

Sealant, we call it "Red Gard", although it is sometimes blue.

The shower doors look wrong. Since the shower head is to the left, the
outter sliding door should be on the outside to prevent water from going
between the 2 panes, it looks like the opening is the inside door.

By design (although not an issue with a properly installed "frameless"
shower door). Keep in mind, as stated, the main use for this shower is for
the handicapped client who will be using the hand held shower head from the
seat opposite the wall mounted shower head. (the "color coordinated" holder
for the handheld unit next to the shower seat is on backorder, as well as
the handheld supply "elbow", thus not pictured.)

k that makes sense.

Is the red gard required by code?
I have to do a makeover on my master bath sometime.. been thinking about
how I am going to do it.



--
Jeff

On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Is the red gard required by code?
I have to do a makeover on my master bath sometime.. been thinking about
how I am going to do it.

Prudent, but not required. At least not around here.

Tile installers have been using "red gard" for a few years, and in some
locations where plumbers do not do shower pans, it is often all that is
used in lieu of a membrane shower pan.

An example, in a similar, but smaller shower I did in AR last year,
where it does happen to be "red" :

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink

I require, and spec both as a rule, as well as a 24 hour leak test,
which could also be seen in process in the photos of the subject bath.

All elements of "plumbing", and a shower pan is part of the plumbing
system IMO, should require a leak test.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/23/2014 4:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k


Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.



Bravo!

elle'gaugn!

On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 16:10:24 -0600, Swingman wrote:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k
Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.

Good job!

On 1/23/14, 9:14 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Is the red gard required by code?
I have to do a makeover on my master bath sometime.. been thinking about
how I am going to do it.

Prudent, but not required. At least not around here.

Tile installers have been using "red gard" for a few years, and in some
locations where plumbers do not do shower pans, it is often all that is
used in lieu of a membrane shower pan.

An example, in a similar, but smaller shower I did in AR last year,
where it does happen to be "red" :

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink


I require, and spec both as a rule, as well as a 24 hour leak test,
which could also be seen in process in the photos of the subject bath.

All elements of "plumbing", and a shower pan is part of the plumbing
system IMO, should require a leak test.


Great work, as usual.
Has Schluter systems made it your way, yet? Have you ever used it. I
used their Ditra underlayment, Kerdi membrane and Kerdi wall boards for
our baths remodel.

http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k

Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.

Nice job Karl. How many on the crew? It would have been a challenge for me
to complete a task like that in 19 days by myself. Challenge hell - might
just have missed the time allocation!

--

-Mike-

Swingman wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Is the red gard required by code?
I have to do a makeover on my master bath sometime.. been thinking
about how I am going to do it.

Prudent, but not required. At least not around here.

Tile installers have been using "red gard" for a few years, and in
some locations where plumbers do not do shower pans, it is often all
that is used in lieu of a membrane shower pan.


What do you use to tape the joints in the cement board Karl?

--

-Mike-

On 1/23/2014 10:14 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Is the red gard required by code?
I have to do a makeover on my master bath sometime.. been thinking about
how I am going to do it.

Prudent, but not required. At least not around here.

Tile installers have been using "red gard" for a few years, and in some
locations where plumbers do not do shower pans, it is often all that is
used in lieu of a membrane shower pan.

An example, in a similar, but smaller shower I did in AR last year,
where it does happen to be "red" :

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink


I require, and spec both as a rule, as well as a 24 hour leak test,
which could also be seen in process in the photos of the subject bath.
I saw that and thought it was important too. Thanks for the info.
I'll make sure I do all of that when I finally do the bath upgrade.

All elements of "plumbing", and a shower pan is part of the plumbing
system IMO, should require a leak test.



--
Jeff

Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k

Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.

I don't think I could have held it for 19 days.

Good job!

--
 GW Ross 

 Everyone is gifted, but some open the 
 package sooner. 

On 1/24/2014 10:43 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Great work, as usual.
Has Schluter systems made it your way, yet? Have you ever used it. I
used their Ditra underlayment, Kerdi membrane and Kerdi wall boards for
our baths remodel.

http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx

Yep, Home Depot carries it here, among other places. Mostly online
special ordering though, so thus far I have not used it due to logistics
and lack of being able to "run to the store" when stuff happens.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/24/2014 11:04 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:

What do you use to tape the joints in the cement board Karl?

Joints floated with the same tile mortar used for time, 2" glass fiber
tape, then RedGard.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/24/14, 12:25 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2014 10:43 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Great work, as usual.
Has Schluter systems made it your way, yet? Have you ever used it. I
used their Ditra underlayment, Kerdi membrane and Kerdi wall boards for
our baths remodel.

http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx

Yep, Home Depot carries it here, among other places. Mostly online
special ordering though, so thus far I have not used it due to logistics
and lack of being able to "run to the store" when stuff happens.


I encourage you to check it out and use their whole system next time you
get the chance... with availability of course.

Their Kerdi boards are structural, so you can frame up walls and
steps/seats, etc with the rigid foam sections that already have the
membrane permanently attached. No 2x lumber build-outs, then covering in
rubber, then seam tape, etc.

Their seam tape is made of the same membrane and is applied with
thin-set, no expensive specialty adhesives. The Kerdi membrane can go
over anything. No need for green-board or cement board. It can go right
on drywall. But on to-the-studs remodels, you just use their 1/2" Kerdi
board instead of drywall/cement board.

Their shower pan systems are also pretty ridiculous. One guy who is
experience with the Schluter schtuff (-- see what I did there) could
have an entire to-the-studs build-out ready for tile in one long day
with nothing more than thinset and utility knives.

There are a ton of videos on their site and youtube. I was very
skeptical at first, thinking, "It just can't be that easy," but it was.
When I was finished with each step, I was all "No way I'm finished with
this. That's can;t be there is to it."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k

Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.
Nice job Karl. How many on the crew? It would have been a challenge for me
to complete a task like that in 19 days by myself. Challenge hell - might
just have missed the time allocation!

Yep, definitely a nice job. You obviously have a great work ethic going
for you!
It makes some of us feel like slobs.. ; )

Bill

On 1/24/2014 11:01 AM, Mike Marlow wrote: Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:


https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k

Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.

Nice job Karl. How many on the crew?

Two of us, Carlos Ruff (my good friend, fishing buddy, and goto guy for
all things construction) and I did everything from design, to demo, to
framing, to trim out carpentry, except:

Subs: rough-in plumbing (1), glass window block installation (1), tile
installation, painting (2), and the sliding shower door installation (1).

Actually, due to drain to wall distance issues in the tract built home,
the commode/bidet/"butt spa" installation (medically of utmost
importance to the project) was actually too complicated, and
non-standard, to leave to a plumber.

I came up with the installation method for the $3000 unit, which the
plumber had never seen/dealt with. Carlos and I did the actual
installation, with the plumber as our helper (basically he had a truck
full of most of the arcane bits and pieces we needed, and he is licensed
to say the final blessing over our installation ... but mostly just got
in our way ).

It would have been a challenge for me
to complete a task like that in 19 days by myself. Challenge hell -
might
just have missed the time allocation!

Carlos and I have a lot of practice. We have done complete baths, from
to-the-studs demo to the finished product in +/- 18 days, including all
plumbing, bathtub installation, electrical, painting, et al ... but
there was no tile involved.

It do take a bit of planning, persistence, and a small amount of cussing
and cajoling.

Started in late November on the design (yep, Sketchup to the rescue),
numerous meeting with clients to go over details and handicap
requirements, staging all needed materials on site, purchasing all
fixtures, supplies, and getting firm commitments as to dates from the
plumbing contractor, tile installer, glass block installer, paint
contractor, and sliding glass door contractor during the month of December.

The client wanted it done in December, but I advised them against it as
no matter what subs tell you, you will not be able to find one the last
10 days of December (Christmas holidays), and therefore if there is a
month that would throw a monkey wrench into a tight schedule, it is
December, so we started Jan 2nd.

Scheduling was critical, as the client, suffering from advancing ALS
complicated by respiratory problems, had to move to a hotel, at great
discomfort and hardship.

I had contractually promised the client no more than thirty days - she
moved back in on the evening of the 19th day.

The above mentioned subs, with the exception of the glass block mason,
have been working with me for a decade or more, so our established
relationships, based on mutual trust and their ability to do it
punctually and right, were the most important element in getting this
job done correctly and in a timely manner.

AAMOF, except for the beginning and end, I spent a good deal of my time
running errands for this and that, being there to answer
questions/advise, and just watching paint dry.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Friday, January 24, 2014 1:42:30 PM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:

SNIP

The above mentioned subs, with the exception of the glass block mason,

have been working with me for a decade or more, so our established

relationships, based on mutual trust and their ability to do it

punctually and right, were the most important element in getting this

job done correctly and in a timely manner.

NICE job. I really like the clean, modern design, too.

I have to say though as I must have been the only one that noticed it... where in the world did you find that toilet. I watched that video about 5 times! Neat stuff!

Robert

On 1/25/2014 2:05 AM, wrote:
On Friday, January 24, 2014 1:42:30 PM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:

SNIP

The above mentioned subs, with the exception of the glass block mason,

have been working with me for a decade or more, so our established

relationships, based on mutual trust and their ability to do it

punctually and right, were the most important element in getting this

job done correctly and in a timely manner.

NICE job. I really like the clean, modern design, too.

I have to say though as I must have been the only one that noticed it... where in the world did you find that toilet. I watched that video about 5 times! Neat stuff!

Robert




I think they found it at the "nothing Under $2,000.00" store. :~)

We have some friends that own on of those contraptions, pretty cool.
But do you really need something else to keep you in there longer? LOL

On 1/24/14 9:43 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/23/14, 9:14 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/23/2014 8:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:

Is the red gard required by code?
I have to do a makeover on my master bath sometime.. been thinking about
how I am going to do it.

Prudent, but not required. At least not around here.

Tile installers have been using "red gard" for a few years, and in some
locations where plumbers do not do shower pans, it is often all that is
used in lieu of a membrane shower pan.

An example, in a similar, but smaller shower I did in AR last year,
where it does happen to be "red" :

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...t=d irectlink



I require, and spec both as a rule, as well as a 24 hour leak test,
which could also be seen in process in the photos of the subject bath.

All elements of "plumbing", and a shower pan is part of the plumbing
system IMO, should require a leak test.


Great work, as usual.
Has Schluter systems made it your way, yet? Have you ever used it. I
used their Ditra underlayment, Kerdi membrane and Kerdi wall boards for
our baths remodel.

http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx


I use the Ditra for all my tile jobs over slab since I first tried the
product. Best advice is to shop around (on line) since the 'quantity'
discount is significant and a lot cheaper than Borg pricing.

-BR

On 1/25/2014 2:05 AM, wrote:

NICE job. I really like the clean, modern design, too.

As always, Linda shopped the tile and did the tile design.

I have to say though as I must have been the only one that noticed it... where in the world did you find that toilet. I watched that video about 5 times! Neat stuff!

I took that video because I was so damned happy to get that "Butt Spa"
mounted, and flushing without a leak, that I was ready to cry. ;0

You will appreciate what usually happens when a salesman promises a
client that if an "industry standard fixture" is currently installed,
this fixture will "absolutely fit", right?

Yeah, right ... never fails to be wrong, and it ain't the salesman (nor
the plumber) who has to somehow make it work ... and 24 hours before the
client move-in time.

And do so without moving the drain (tearing out the slab), and/or moving
the wall (which contained a supply line AND vent pipe _directly_ in line
with the drain and too close to the sill plate to gain the needed
clearance, which also precluded creating a recess in the finished wall
for the back of the commode)

Long story, but with a bit of Cajun ingenuity, born of desperate
necessity, and facing a deadline cast in concrete, all's well that ends
well.

IOW, I'm damned proud to have been able to take that video.


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/24/2014 12:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/24/14, 12:25 PM, Swingman wrote:

I encourage you to check it out and use their whole system next time you
get the chance... with availability of course.

I saw it at a GHBA seminar a few years back and was intrigued.

Providing I can insure "in stock" availability, and based on your
recommendation, I'll definitely consider it on this next bath remodel
which is right around the corner.

Be a good time to try it.

Thanks!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/25/2014 8:15 AM, Leon wrote:

I think they found it at the "nothing Under $2,000.00" store. :~)

Bingo!

We have some friends that own on of those contraptions, pretty cool. But
do you really need something else to keep you in there longer? LOL

I gotta admit that I kinda wanted to give it a test drive (only in the
interest of QA, or course) but didn't have the necessary urge within the
time allowed.

What was funny was when we were installing the handicap bars around the
Butt Spa, I sat, fully clothed, on the seat (which automagically opens
when you approach the beast) to judge the correct height of said bars,
and it warmed up the butt end my jeans considerably ... a strange sensation.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:
Bath remodel to assist client with medically necessary, handicapped
access to shower and facilities:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...t=directlin k


Time was of the essence ... 19 days from start to finish.
Nice job Karl. How many on the crew? It would have been a challenge
for me
to complete a task like that in 19 days by myself. Challenge hell -
might
just have missed the time allocation!

Yep, definitely a nice job. You obviously have a great work ethic
going for you!
It makes some of us feel like slobs.. ; )

I didn't really mean that last part of course, Karl. I wondered where
you had been!



Bill

On Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:42:36 AM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:

I gotta admit that I kinda wanted to give it a test drive (only in the

interest of QA, or course) but didn't have the necessary urge within the

time allowed.

You should have visited that joint where you and Leon like to go for Mex! That could have started the ball rolling...


What was funny was when we were installing the handicap bars around the

Butt Spa, I sat, fully clothed, on the seat (which automagically opens

when you approach the beast) to judge the correct height of said bars,

and it warmed up the butt end my jeans considerably ... a strange sensation.

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can a plastic seat get? Of course, I guess it doesn't have to be that old sometimes to interrupt the initial "flow" of things. Is it 110V, plugged in behind the unit? Does the lid close by itself as well? Inquiring minds need to know.

All that thing needs is a washer nozzle and it would be perfect.

I am impressed it was installable. I don't stray much off the path these days having had to jackhammer up a piece of slab, replace/relocate the lead drain boot/bowl ring for a fancy turbo flush monster in a house. Now I let the client pick out the toilet as I too was assured that the toilet was a "universal fit" to existing dimensions. Nope. Another expensive lesson for yours truly.

No kidding... a heated seat. I had heard of them but never actually knew of someone installing one.

I hope Kathy doesn't find that as an after market install.

Robert

On 1/24/2014 1:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/24/14, 12:25 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2014 10:43 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Great work, as usual.
Has Schluter systems made it your way, yet? Have you ever used it. I
used their Ditra underlayment, Kerdi membrane and Kerdi wall boards for
our baths remodel.

http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx

Yep, Home Depot carries it here, among other places. Mostly online
special ordering though, so thus far I have not used it due to logistics
and lack of being able to "run to the store" when stuff happens.


I encourage you to check it out and use their whole system next time you
get the chance... with availability of course.

Their Kerdi boards are structural, so you can frame up walls and
steps/seats, etc with the rigid foam sections that already have the
membrane permanently attached. No 2x lumber build-outs, then covering in
rubber, then seam tape, etc.

Their seam tape is made of the same membrane and is applied with
thin-set, no expensive specialty adhesives. The Kerdi membrane can go
over anything. No need for green-board or cement board. It can go right
on drywall. But on to-the-studs remodels, you just use their 1/2" Kerdi
board instead of drywall/cement board.

Their shower pan systems are also pretty ridiculous. One guy who is
experience with the Schluter schtuff (-- see what I did there) could
have an entire to-the-studs build-out ready for tile in one long day
with nothing more than thinset and utility knives.

There are a ton of videos on their site and youtube. I was very
skeptical at first, thinking, "It just can't be that easy," but it was.
When I was finished with each step, I was all "No way I'm finished with
this. That's can;t be there is to it."




I'm doing a to-the-studs rip and replace of a very small en suite bathroom.
My first truly complete replacement and it is going a lot slower than 'one
long day'. Hell, it took me three days to get out the lead shower pan and
complete mud bed floor. I worked very carefully on that so as to not cause
any structural damage. I'm finally down to fitting the replacement floor
(no mud!) and am using Schluter all the way -- Ditra and Kerdi with the
foam pan and bench. There was some pretty nasty stuff going on in the walls
and floor of the old shower and I'm looking forward to a truly waterproof
system in the next go-round which had better last longer than I do since
I'm never going to do this sort of job again.

On 1/25/2014 10:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/25/2014 8:15 AM, Leon wrote:

I think they found it at the "nothing Under $2,000.00" store. :~)

Bingo!

We have some friends that own on of those contraptions, pretty cool. But
do you really need something else to keep you in there longer? LOL

I gotta admit that I kinda wanted to give it a test drive (only in the
interest of QA, or course) but didn't have the necessary urge within the
time allowed.

What was funny was when we were installing the handicap bars around the
Butt Spa, I sat, fully clothed, on the seat (which automagically opens
when you approach the beast) to judge the correct height of said bars,
and it warmed up the butt end my jeans considerably ... a strange
sensation.



Now that would have been too funny had it started to clean things up
down there too. :~)

On 1/25/2014 12:04 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:42:36 AM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:

I gotta admit that I kinda wanted to give it a test drive (only in the

interest of QA, or course) but didn't have the necessary urge within the

time allowed.

You should have visited that joint where you and Leon like to go for Mex! That could have started the ball rolling...


What was funny was when we were installing the handicap bars around the

Butt Spa, I sat, fully clothed, on the seat (which automagically opens

when you approach the beast) to judge the correct height of said bars,

and it warmed up the butt end my jeans considerably ... a strange sensation.

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can a plastic seat get? Of course, I guess it doesn't have to be that old sometimes to interrupt the initial "flow" of things. Is it 110V, plugged in behind the unit? Does the lid close by itself as well? Inquiring minds need to know.

All that thing needs is a washer nozzle and it would be perfect.

I am impressed it was installable. I don't stray much off the path these days having had to jackhammer up a piece of slab, replace/relocate the lead drain boot/bowl ring for a fancy turbo flush monster in a house. Now I let the client pick out the toilet as I too was assured that the toilet was a "universal fit" to existing dimensions. Nope. Another expensive lesson for yours truly.

No kidding... a heated seat. I had heard of them but never actually knew of someone installing one.

I hope Kathy doesn't find that as an after market install.

Robert



You need to look into those things, there is a spray nozzle that comes
out and washes you down too. Seriously!

On 1/25/14, 12:56 PM, BenignBodger wrote:
On 1/24/2014 1:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/24/14, 12:25 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2014 10:43 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Great work, as usual. Has Schluter systems made it your way,
yet? Have you ever used it. I used their Ditra underlayment,
Kerdi membrane and Kerdi wall boards for our baths remodel.

http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx

Yep, Home Depot carries it here, among other places. Mostly
online special ordering though, so thus far I have not used it
due to logistics and lack of being able to "run to the store"
when stuff happens.


I encourage you to check it out and use their whole system next
time you get the chance... with availability of course.

Their Kerdi boards are structural, so you can frame up walls and
steps/seats, etc with the rigid foam sections that already have
the membrane permanently attached. No 2x lumber build-outs, then
covering in rubber, then seam tape, etc.

Their seam tape is made of the same membrane and is applied with
thin-set, no expensive specialty adhesives. The Kerdi membrane can
go over anything. No need for green-board or cement board. It can
go right on drywall. But on to-the-studs remodels, you just use
their 1/2" Kerdi board instead of drywall/cement board.

Their shower pan systems are also pretty ridiculous. One guy who
is experience with the Schluter schtuff (-- see what I did there)
could have an entire to-the-studs build-out ready for tile in one
long day with nothing more than thinset and utility knives.

There are a ton of videos on their site and youtube. I was very
skeptical at first, thinking, "It just can't be that easy," but it
was. When I was finished with each step, I was all "No way I'm
finished with this. That's can;t be there is to it."




I'm doing a to-the-studs rip and replace of a very small en suite
bathroom. My first truly complete replacement and it is going a lot
slower than 'one long day'. Hell, it took me three days to get out
the lead shower pan and complete mud bed floor. I worked very
carefully on that so as to not cause any structural damage. I'm
finally down to fitting the replacement floor (no mud!) and am using
Schluter all the way -- Ditra and Kerdi with the foam pan and bench.
There was some pretty nasty stuff going on in the walls and floor of
the old shower and I'm looking forward to a truly waterproof system
in the next go-round which had better last longer than I do since I'm
never going to do this sort of job again.


When I said "one long day," I was talking about a room that was to the
studs and subfloor and ready for the Schluter Schtuff to be installed.
AND an experienced guy who works with the stuff every day.

When you watch the videos of the guys who demonstrate it, it's amazing
how fast and perfect they work.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/25/2014 12:04 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, January 25, 2014 10:42:36 AM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:

I gotta admit that I kinda wanted to give it a test drive (only in the

interest of QA, or course) but didn't have the necessary urge within the

time allowed.

You should have visited that joint where you and Leon like to go for Mex! That could have started the ball rolling...


What was funny was when we were installing the handicap bars around the

Butt Spa, I sat, fully clothed, on the seat (which automagically opens

when you approach the beast) to judge the correct height of said bars,

and it warmed up the butt end my jeans considerably ... a strange sensation.

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can a plastic seat get? Of course, I guess it doesn't have to be that old sometimes to interrupt the initial "flow" of things. Is it 110V, plugged in behind the unit? Does the lid close by itself as well? Inquiring minds need to know.

All that thing needs is a washer nozzle and it would be perfect.

110v, dedicated GFCI ... I simply rerouted the dedicated GFCI circuit
that was designated for the old Jacuzzi tub.

The both lids programmably open and close automagically. They/it opens
when you walk up, programmable for either for male or female, and closes
the same a few minutes after you walk away.

Totally programmable, for heating, washing, wiping, drying, (and
possibly kissing?) with remote control, for two users.

Not one washer nozzle but two, one for the butt, the other for the more
delicate female unit ... either, or both remotely programmable at the
push of the button.

Here's a similar unit:

http://www.totousa.com/Washlet/G500.aspx


I am impressed it was installable. I don't stray much off the path these days having had to jackhammer up a piece of slab, replace/relocate the lead drain boot/bowl ring for a fancy turbo flush monster in a house. Now I let the client pick out the toilet as I too was assured that the toilet was a "universal fit" to existing dimensions. Nope. Another expensive lesson for yours truly.

No kidding... a heated seat. I had heard of them but never actually knew of someone installing one.

The thing is scary. When you see those nozzles come out, you start
worrying about keeping any virginity you might possess!

I hope Kathy doesn't find that as an after market install.

I have, wisely, refused to let Linda see it in operation.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/25/2014 12:04 PM, wrote:
No kidding... a heated seat. I had heard of them but never actually knew of someone installing one.

I hope Kathy doesn't find that as an after market install.

When I first discovered the TV "Remote" app for my iPhone/iPad, I would
torment Linda by changing the channel she was watching (preferably to a
Spanish one) from an upstairs room while she was watching TV downstairs
in the den.

Just imagine the fun to be had with this toilet remote control. EG

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

wrote:

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can
a plastic seat get?

Ummmmmm... in the climates further north than your agreeable climate - VERY
freakin' cold. It's always best to be the second person to sit on the
seat - if you don't wait too long after the first person. Do you have any
idea at all what -25F translates to in terms of toilet seat temperature at
5:00AM?


No kidding... a heated seat. I had heard of them but never actually
knew of someone installing one.

Heated seat - I just let the better half use it first. Feels just perfect
after she gets off.


--

-Mike-

On 1/25/2014 8:47 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can
a plastic seat get?

Ummmmmm... in the climates further north than your agreeable climate - VERY
freakin' cold. It's always best to be the second person to sit on the
seat - if you don't wait too long after the first person. Do you have any
idea at all what -25F translates to in terms of toilet seat temperature at
5:00AM?


No, and I seriously doubt that your indoor toilet is anywhere near -25F
degrees either, regardless of what time it is.

By the same token in the south I too have no idea what 108F degree
translates to in terms of indoor toilet seat temperatures.

I surely would not sit on the hood of my truck butt naked on August 31
at 3 PM and I suspect you don't do the same during the dead of winter. ;~)






No kidding... a heated seat. I had heard of them but never actually
knew of someone installing one.

Heated seat - I just let the better half use it first. Feels just perfect
after she gets off.

Leon wrote:
On 1/25/2014 8:47 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can
a plastic seat get?

Ummmmmm... in the climates further north than your agreeable climate
- VERY freakin' cold. It's always best to be the second person to
sit on the seat - if you don't wait too long after the first person.
Do you have any idea at all what -25F translates to in terms of
toilet seat temperature at 5:00AM?


No, and I seriously doubt that your indoor toilet is anywhere near
-25F degrees either, regardless of what time it is.


Of course - but when it's that cold outside, it's too cold inside! You
southerners don't realize the impact of low outside temps on the living
conditions inside the house. Yer butt can say "WOW" on those cold mornings!


I surely would not sit on the hood of my truck butt naked on August 31
at 3 PM and I suspect you don't do the same during the dead of
winter. ;~)

Well - there are those guys who say "Hey hold my beer... watch this...". We
have them around here too...


--

-Mike-

On 1/26/2014 1:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/25/2014 8:47 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

Wait... WHAT? It has a butt heater, too? No kidding? How cold can
a plastic seat get?

Ummmmmm... in the climates further north than your agreeable climate
- VERY freakin' cold. It's always best to be the second person to
sit on the seat - if you don't wait too long after the first person.
Do you have any idea at all what -25F translates to in terms of
toilet seat temperature at 5:00AM?


No, and I seriously doubt that your indoor toilet is anywhere near
-25F degrees either, regardless of what time it is.


Of course - but when it's that cold outside, it's too cold inside! You
southerners don't realize the impact of low outside temps on the living
conditions inside the house. Yer butt can say "WOW" on those cold mornings!

How cold do you let it get inside??







I surely would not sit on the hood of my truck butt naked on August 31
at 3 PM and I suspect you don't do the same during the dead of
winter. ;~)

Well - there are those guys who say "Hey hold my beer... watch this...". We
have them around here too...

Yeah buddy! LOL

Leon wrote:

How cold do you let it get inside??


Woke up one morning and the fuel oil had run out. It was 52F in the house.
The wood stove had been banked down for the night and it had plenty of coals
to get a new fire going, but it wasn't prepared to cope with those
temperatures all by itself at the night time setting. We keep our boiler
thermostats set on 62F and let the wood stove take care of the rest of the
heat. Generally speaking it does a pretty good job at that. Our house can
stay in the mid 70's that way. If we crank the stove we can get it to
almost 80F. But - at night it gets banked down and we usually expect to get
up to a house that is no colder than mid to upper 60's. In this cold snap
it's important to regulate heat where you want it and where you don't by
closing doors to upper rooms, and/or opening doors to lower rooms. Leave a
first floor bathroom door closed in these temps and I can assure you it will
get cold enough to make you wish you hadn't.


--

-Mike-

Leon wrote:

How cold do you let it get inside??

----------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Woke up one morning and the fuel oil had run out. It was 52F in the
house. The wood stove had been banked down for the night and it had
plenty of coals to get a new fire going, but it wasn't prepared to
cope with those temperatures all by itself at the night time
setting. We keep our boiler thermostats set on 62F and let the wood
stove take care of the rest of the heat. Generally speaking it does
a pretty good job at that. Our house can stay in the mid 70's that
way. If we crank the stove we can get it to almost 80F. But - at
night it gets banked down and we usually expect to get up to a house
that is no colder than mid to upper 60's. In this cold snap it's
important to regulate heat where you want it and where you don't by
closing doors to upper rooms, and/or opening doors to lower rooms.
Leave a first floor bathroom door closed in these temps and I can
assure you it will get cold enough to make you wish you hadn't.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Reading the above reminds me of just how fortunate I was to escape to
SoCal.

Feel sorry for you folks over the hill from SoCal.

Just glad I don't have to experience that kind of weather any more.

Still haven't broken out a jacket this season.

Temps only reached mid 70s today, just the Santana's (Devil winds),
but no rain.


Lew

On 1/26/2014 6:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:

How cold do you let it get inside??


Woke up one morning and the fuel oil had run out. It was 52F in the house.
The wood stove had been banked down for the night and it had plenty of coals
to get a new fire going, but it wasn't prepared to cope with those
temperatures all by itself at the night time setting. We keep our boiler
thermostats set on 62F and let the wood stove take care of the rest of the
heat. Generally speaking it does a pretty good job at that. Our house can
stay in the mid 70's that way. If we crank the stove we can get it to
almost 80F. But - at night it gets banked down and we usually expect to get
up to a house that is no colder than mid to upper 60's. In this cold snap
it's important to regulate heat where you want it and where you don't by
closing doors to upper rooms, and/or opening doors to lower rooms. Leave a
first floor bathroom door closed in these temps and I can assure you it will
get cold enough to make you wish you hadn't.




Well at night you keep your house 6 degrees cooler than I do.

On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 21:50:50 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/26/2014 6:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:

How cold do you let it get inside??


Woke up one morning and the fuel oil had run out. It was 52F in the house.
The wood stove had been banked down for the night and it had plenty of coals
to get a new fire going, but it wasn't prepared to cope with those
temperatures all by itself at the night time setting. We keep our boiler
thermostats set on 62F and let the wood stove take care of the rest of the
heat. Generally speaking it does a pretty good job at that. Our house can
stay in the mid 70's that way. If we crank the stove we can get it to
almost 80F. But - at night it gets banked down and we usually expect to get
up to a house that is no colder than mid to upper 60's. In this cold snap
it's important to regulate heat where you want it and where you don't by
closing doors to upper rooms, and/or opening doors to lower rooms. Leave a
first floor bathroom door closed in these temps and I can assure you it will
get cold enough to make you wish you hadn't.




Well at night you keep your house 6 degrees cooler than I do.

When we lived in Vermont, we set the thermostat back to 58F at night
and up to a toasty 64F during the day (usually bumped up to 66F during
the evening). Here in GA, I keep it at about 66 or 67, down to 65F at
night. Heating is much cheaper here.