When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some stain and nothing
more or do some lacquer over it? I understand it will probably depend on
several variables such as stain color, stain type, sanding prep (final
grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?

I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar with two coats
though I'm uncertain if it's normal. When viewing the wood directly, it
looks fine. When I lay it down and view it with light reflection, I can
see some shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's just the
way the stain absorbed into the wood based on it's texture/grain. I'm
trying to determine if I should add another coat or lacquer over it and
be done.

What say the experts?

Thank you

On 12/31/2013 8:58 AM, Meanie wrote:
When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some stain and nothing
more or do some lacquer over it? I understand it will probably depend on
several variables such as stain color, stain type, sanding prep (final
grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?

I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar with two coats
though I'm uncertain if it's normal. When viewing the wood directly, it
looks fine. When I lay it down and view it with light reflection, I can
see some shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's just the
way the stain absorbed into the wood based on it's texture/grain. I'm
trying to determine if I should add another coat or lacquer over it and
be done.

What say the experts?

Thank you

To date there are 1,233,367 correct answers and as many incorrect answers.

The most common of stains require one coat and multiple coats of clear
to protect the finish.

Some stains have a finish built in. That sounds like what you might be
using. Minwax by any chance? The trouble with a built in
finish/varnish is that you are essentially staining wood and then
staining varnish with each successive coat. The trouble also is that
while you might not want to go any darker with successive coats the
surface may not be properly protected, this is often visible by the
appearance of shinny and dull spots.

For best results, read the directions on the can.

If you don't like the results, try another brand. Not all stains and
varnishes are created equal and you absolutely will get different results.

A few rules to consider.

1. Don't scrimp on the finish. The quality of the stain/finish can
make a great looking project look terrible. This is no time to start
trying to save a few dollars.

2. Don't try a, new to you, product on your project piece, always
practice on scraps of the same wood. It is much better to change brands
before apply to your project if you don't like the results.

On 12/31/2013 9:58 AM, Meanie wrote:
When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some stain and nothing
more or do some lacquer over it? I understand it will probably depend on
several variables such as stain color, stain type, sanding prep (final
grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?

I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar with two coats
though I'm uncertain if it's normal. When viewing the wood directly, it
looks fine. When I lay it down and view it with light reflection, I can
see some shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's just the
way the stain absorbed into the wood based on it's texture/grain. I'm
trying to determine if I should add another coat or lacquer over it and
be done.

What say the experts?

Thank you

Appearance is subjective. Normally, one coat is right, but some woods
don't absorb the stain evenly. In that case, you either like the blotch
or you use a pre-stain (mineral spirits will do) to help even it out.

I think you are right about the shiny versus dull spots. If you like
the overall appearance, let it dry and top coat it. If you don't like
it, go back and wipe some stain on the lighter parts.

There are entire books dedicated to finishing written by people far more
knowledgeable than me. You may want to check them out at some point.

"Meanie" wrote in message

When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some
stain and nothing more or do some lacquer over it? I
understand it will probably depend on several variables
such as stain color, stain type, sanding prep (final
grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?
I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar
with two coats though I'm uncertain if it's normal. When
viewing the wood directly, it looks fine. When I lay it
down and view it with light reflection, I can see some
shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's
just the way the stain absorbed into the wood based on
it's texture/grain. I'm trying to determine if I should
add another coat or lacquer over it and be done.
What say the experts?


Stain isn't a finish. Its purpose is to color the wood before applying a
finish.

When top coating stained wood with lacquer, be sure the stain is completely
dry else the lacquer may mess up the stain.




--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 12/31/2013 10:42 AM, Leon wrote:


To date there are 1,233,367 correct answers and as many incorrect answers.

The most common of stains require one coat and multiple coats of clear
to protect the finish.

Some stains have a finish built in. That sounds like what you might be
using. Minwax by any chance?

Oh oh, you're on to me.

Any brand recommendation?


The trouble with a built in
finish/varnish is that you are essentially staining wood and then
staining varnish with each successive coat. The trouble also is that
while you might not want to go any darker with successive coats the
surface may not be properly protected, this is often visible by the
appearance of shinny and dull spots.

For best results, read the directions on the can.

If you don't like the results, try another brand. Not all stains and
varnishes are created equal and you absolutely will get different results.

A few rules to consider.

1. Don't scrimp on the finish. The quality of the stain/finish can
make a great looking project look terrible. This is no time to start
trying to save a few dollars.

I don't have a problem paying for a good product. I just need to learn
what they are.

2. Don't try a, new to you, product on your project piece, always
practice on scraps of the same wood. It is much better to change brands
before apply to your project if you don't like the results.


On scraps of the same wood, it looks good, but with a small piece, it's
difficult to grasp the color as a whole or to discover the shiny and
dull mixtures.

I understand I'll need to practice with varying techniques and products,
I'm hoping some tips would help me avoid minor catastrophes.

Thanks

Meanie wrote:
On 12/31/2013 10:42 AM, Leon wrote:


To date there are 1,233,367 correct answers and as many incorrect
answers.

The most common of stains require one coat and multiple coats of clear
to protect the finish.

Some stains have a finish built in. That sounds like what you might be
using. Minwax by any chance?

Oh oh, you're on to me.

Any brand recommendation?


The trouble with a built in
finish/varnish is that you are essentially staining wood and then
staining varnish with each successive coat. The trouble also is that
while you might not want to go any darker with successive coats the
surface may not be properly protected, this is often visible by the
appearance of shinny and dull spots.

For best results, read the directions on the can.

If you don't like the results, try another brand. Not all stains and
varnishes are created equal and you absolutely will get different
results.

A few rules to consider.

1. Don't scrimp on the finish. The quality of the stain/finish can
make a great looking project look terrible. This is no time to start
trying to save a few dollars.

I don't have a problem paying for a good product. I just need to learn
what they are.

2. Don't try a, new to you, product on your project piece, always
practice on scraps of the same wood. It is much better to change brands
before apply to your project if you don't like the results.


On scraps of the same wood, it looks good, but with a small piece,
it's difficult to grasp the color as a whole or to discover the shiny
and dull mixtures.

You just need "bigger" small pieces! I bought Jeff Jewitt's book on
finishing based upon it's excellent reputation (you might like it?) and
opportune pricing, but haven't really started it.

It's great to learn a bit about finishing/woodworking here today. It
appears many are away from their computers this week.

Cheers,
Bill




I understand I'll need to practice with varying techniques and
products, I'm hoping some tips would help me avoid minor catastrophes.

Thanks

In article , Meanie
wrote:

When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some stain and nothing
more or do some lacquer over it? I understand it will probably depend on
several variables such as stain color, stain type, sanding prep (final
grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?

I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar with two coats
though I'm uncertain if it's normal. When viewing the wood directly, it
looks fine. When I lay it down and view it with light reflection, I can
see some shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's just the
way the stain absorbed into the wood based on it's texture/grain. I'm
trying to determine if I should add another coat or lacquer over it and
be done.

What say the experts?

When I stain, I usually use General Finishes' water-based stains, then
finish with spraying a topcoat of their pre-cat poly.

I apply the stain by hand, with as many coats as needed to get the
color I want. Typically 2 or 3, but as many as 5 or 6.

However, there is no finish in the stain...

On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 9:42:28 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
Meanie wrote: .... is there a general rule for staining?

LOL (laughing with/at Leon's answer). How about let's just concentrate on the issue you are now having.

When viewing the wood directly, it looks fine. When I lay it down and view it with light reflection, I can see some shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's just the way the stain absorbed into the wood based on it's texture/grain.

For best results, read the directions on the can. If you don't like the results, try another brand. Not all stains and varnishes are created equal and you absolutely will get different results.

Stain, not a dye: Some/most instructions state to wipe off the excess. We may comprehend "wiping" differently. Often times, I wipe and rub hard, to absolutely get all the obvious wetness off the surface. Even very little or slight wetness/"puddling" (thicker in some spots, because of non-uniform wiping off of the excess) can result in the results you describe, hence, one cause of those results.

For our better understanding, what stain did you use, what was your application technique, and what type of wood?

Sonny

On 12/31/2013 6:37 PM, Meanie wrote:
On 12/31/2013 10:42 AM, Leon wrote:


To date there are 1,233,367 correct answers and as many incorrect
answers.

The most common of stains require one coat and multiple coats of clear
to protect the finish.

Some stains have a finish built in. That sounds like what you might be
using. Minwax by any chance?

Oh oh, you're on to me.

Any brand recommendation?

Well from me, anything but Minwax. I have never had any good
experiences with it. Now that I have said that, others have had stellar
results with the product. It may be that I expect much more from a product.


Brand recommendations and top on my list is Old Masters gel varnish. I
understand that their gel varnishes are top shelf however I have not yet
used their stains yet.

Next down on my list is General Finishes. I have used their stains for
many years and recently have been using their water based dyes. FWIW I
would advise going with oil based over water based any time you have the
choice.

With any gel stain or varnish, read the directions. But specifically
with Old Masters gel "varnishes" apply one to two square feet at a time
and IMMEDIATELY wipe that area down with a new clean lent free cloth to
remove the excess, you might use 2~3 of the initial wiping clothes
during an application. I wipe quickly enough that I get away using
Scott Blue shop paper towels.

Now this is key, after wiping the excess off, wipe it again lightly with
a different clean cloth. 2~3 coats will normally be necessary to get an
even sheen.


Alternatively if you want to build a heavier thicker coat more quickly,
I use General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based varnish. I apply the first
coat with a rag as indicated on the directions.

I apply the second coat with, now this is key, A "Wooster" brand foam
brush. DO NOT USE a cheap inexpensive foam brush!. I find these
Wooster brand brushes at Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-2...0020/204302391

I buy General Finishes at my local Woodcraft and Rockler stores.
I buy Old Masters gel varnish by the case from my local paint Store.







The trouble with a built in
finish/varnish is that you are essentially staining wood and then
staining varnish with each successive coat. The trouble also is that
while you might not want to go any darker with successive coats the
surface may not be properly protected, this is often visible by the
appearance of shinny and dull spots.

For best results, read the directions on the can.

If you don't like the results, try another brand. Not all stains and
varnishes are created equal and you absolutely will get different
results.

A few rules to consider.

1. Don't scrimp on the finish. The quality of the stain/finish can
make a great looking project look terrible. This is no time to start
trying to save a few dollars.

I don't have a problem paying for a good product. I just need to learn
what they are.

2. Don't try a, new to you, product on your project piece, always
practice on scraps of the same wood. It is much better to change brands
before apply to your project if you don't like the results.


On scraps of the same wood, it looks good, but with a small piece, it's
difficult to grasp the color as a whole or to discover the shiny and
dull mixtures.

;~) Use a bigger scrap.

Shiny and dull is part of the process of applying a clear finish. With
a stain mixed in the finish tends to get darker as you apply more coats.





I understand I'll need to practice with varying techniques and products,
I'm hoping some tips would help me avoid minor catastrophes.

Thanks


Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon wrote:

Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

One of the advantages claimed for gel finishes is that they blotch less.
I tried out one of the General ones shortly after they came out. A good
finish, but it blotched just as much as the liquid ones.

I still like a dye followed by a clear coat (usually Tried&True) or a dye
mixed in with dewaxed shellac (SealCoat).

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On 1/1/2014 12:45 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon wrote:

Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

One of the advantages claimed for gel finishes is that they blotch less.
I tried out one of the General ones shortly after they came out. A good
finish, but it blotched just as much as the liquid ones.

I still like a dye followed by a clear coat (usually Tried&True) or a dye
mixed in with dewaxed shellac (SealCoat).


I started appreciating the gel when I had to do my slider replacement.
The wood is yellow pine. I do have splotching, but it's a minimum, and
looks quite acceptable since it didn't run rampant. I blame myself for
rubbing it in.

I have since started using it in other finishing projects, and can say
it works well.

--
Jeff

On 1/1/2014 11:45 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon wrote:

Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

One of the advantages claimed for gel finishes is that they blotch less.
I tried out one of the General ones shortly after they came out. A good
finish, but it blotched just as much as the liquid ones.

I still like a dye followed by a clear coat (usually Tried&True) or a dye
mixed in with dewaxed shellac (SealCoat).



I have never been a fan of General Finishes "Gel Anything"

I have not used the General Finishes gel stains, only their gel varnish,
and it was pretty sad IMHO.


My past favorites were Bartelys, Lawrence McFadden, and Verathane gel
stains.

Lately I have not been staining unless absolutely necessary and IIRC
have only used General Finishes Dye stain Which got the job done but I
was not impressed with the way it raised the grain.

I prefer the General Finishes liquid oil stains and finishes.

When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some stain and
nothing more or do some lacquer over it? I understand it will probably
depend on several variables such as stain color, stain type, sanding
prep (final grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?
I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar with two coats
though I'm uncertain if it's normal.

I've built several projects with cedar and usually just put an oil based
poly on the bare wood. I think cedar looks great with no stain.

However, most of the projects I build are made with pine or poplar that I
get from the home center. Stain is a necessity with these, but they're
also very prone to splotching. I'm sure everyone has their own favorite
brands and techniques, but here's mine:

1. Sand the bare wood to 150 or 180 grit. I've tried sanding to finer
grits, but didn't see any signficant difference in the final product.
Then use a shop vac with a dust brush attachment to remove all dust.

2. Apply a "pre-conditioner" to the wood. I use the regular Min-Wax
version you can find at any home center. The preconditioner helps seal
the wood and really helps reduce blotching with soft woods like pine and
poplar. There's nothing finicky about this step, I just grab a paper
towel and wipe it on. If there's any excess, I wipe it off with a paper
towel.

3. Apply the stain within an hour or two of applying the conditioner.
Gel-stains blotch less than oil stains, but I've used both with good
results. I like the General Finishes gel stains, but they can be a bit
pricey. Ordinary Min-Wax oil stains work OK too. I like to use stain
applicators that you can find in the paint section at the home center.
Basically it's a sponge covered with a soft cloth. I find it helps even
out the stain application. Oh, and I always wear blue nitrile gloves when
staining so I don't end up with stained fingers.

4. Let the stain dry over night, then apply your first coat of
polyurethane. I've been using General Finishes oil based polyurethanes
recently, but can't say the results have been significantly different
than the Min-Wax versions.

5. Let the first coat of poly dry overnight, then sand lightly with 220
grit. Don't get crazy and sand through to the stain, you're just trying
to knock off all the little dust nibs that settle in the finish. The
clear finish will usually look dull and white after sanding. Then use the
shop vac brush to clean up any dust on the surface.

6. Apply a second coat of poly. Let it dry overnight, then lightly sand
with 220 grit again. Shop vac the dust again.

7. Apply a third coat of poly. Let it dry overnight before handling.

I normally use oil based polyurethanes. However, they have a strong odor
and dry slowly (more dust gets trapped in the finish). Sometimes the oil
based poly tends to act as a solvent and picks up some of the stain.
Also, projects that I have finished with oil based poly can have a strong
smell for a couple weeks. This is more noticeable with projects that are
closed up like drawers and cabinets.

I am currently trying the water based Min-Wax brand polyurethane, over
the General Finish gel stain. So far I've been rather impressed. It
brushes on nicely, has virtually no odor, and dries quickly. I didn't
notice any of the stain being pulled up like the oil based poly does, and
there's practically no dust nibs in the finish since it dries so fast.
Otherwise, I'm using the same three coat method I normally use. The water
based poly is more "clear" than the slight amber color of the oil based
poly. This isn't much of an issue on stained wood, but could be a factor
if applied to bare wood. I don't have enough experience with the water
based poly to know how it will hold up long term.

By the way, avoid those stain and poly in one mixes. I had horrible
results with those. They go on streaky and additional coats just make it
look worse.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On 1/1/2014 9:45 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon wrote:

Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

One of the advantages claimed for gel finishes is that they blotch less.
I tried out one of the General ones shortly after they came out. A good
finish, but it blotched just as much as the liquid ones.

I still like a dye followed by a clear coat (usually Tried&True) or a dye
mixed in with dewaxed shellac (SealCoat).

+1 for the dewaxed shellac and dye. Personally I have used SealCoat and
TransTint with decent effect. Rigorous testing is a must. Take notes.
Label everything. Buy a decent eyedropper to make matching colors
from one batch to the next a bit more likely. You can then add
protective coatings (or not) to taste and the environment the piece will
live in. Have fun.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On Thu, 02 Jan 2014 06:45:58 -0800, jo4hn wrote:

Label everything. Buy a decent eyedropper to make matching colors from
one batch to the next a bit more likely.

Amen!


--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 8:30:31 AM UTC-6, HerHusband wrote:


5. Let the first coat of poly dry overnight, then sand lightly with 220

grit. Don't get crazy and sand through to the stain, you're just trying

to knock off all the little dust nibs that settle in the finish. The

clear finish will usually look dull and white after sanding. Then use the

shop vac brush to clean up any dust on the surface.

At this point you should advise those that are seeking advice to read the directions on their specific brand of poly for its application. Generic instructions won't serve well for all brands of poly. Some have recoat times of 12 hours, some 8, and some are as little as 2 to 4.

Failure to follow the specific instructions of the manufacturer can lead to lack of adhesion, witness lines and a list of other problems.


6. Apply a second coat of poly. Let it dry overnight, then lightly sand

with 220 grit again. Shop vac the dust again.

See above for recoat times.


7. Apply a third coat of poly. Let it dry overnight before handling.

See above for application timing.


I normally use oil based polyurethanes. However, they have a strong odor

and dry slowly (more dust gets trapped in the finish). Sometimes the oil

based poly tends to act as a solvent and picks up some of the stain.

Also, projects that I have finished with oil based poly can have a strong

smell for a couple weeks. This is more noticeable with projects that are

closed up like drawers and cabinets.



I am currently trying the water based Min-Wax brand polyurethane, over

the General Finish gel stain. So far I've been rather impressed. It

brushes on nicely, has virtually no odor, and dries quickly. I didn't

notice any of the stain being pulled up like the oil based poly does, and

there's practically no dust nibs in the finish since it dries so fast.

Otherwise, I'm using the same three coat method I normally use.

Read those instructions! I do a fair amount of finishing professionally through my contracting company and I have never found it wise to work outside the parameters and instructive directions given by the manufacturer.

For example:

With Minwax oil poly, Minwax specifically says a 2 hr recoat:
http://goo.gl/fV6Rzu

For Minwax waterborne poly, Minwax states 2 hr recoat as well:
http://goo.gl/SRrhGS

These are a world apart from the oil based GF finishes you reference. And when discussing waterborne finishes, overnight is simply too long. Take a look at the Varathane site which also says 2 hrs. to recoat:

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/t...lyurethane.pdf

Sherwin Williams waterborne poly is a ONE hr recoat:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/docu.../035777464212/

You get the idea. Many other manufacturers have their own times for recoats and their application. One should completely familiarize themselves with the product they are using before they apply it to their prized wood working project. Giving advice in an off handed way can ruin projects for the folks that read these messages and follow their instructions...

Robert

Hi Robert,

At this point you should advise those that are seeking advice to read
the directions on their specific brand of poly for its application.
Generic instructions won't serve well for all brands of poly. Some
have recoat times of 12 hours, some 8, and some are as little as 2 to
4. Failure to follow the specific instructions of the manufacturer can
lead to lack of adhesion, witness lines and a list of other problems.

True, but my own time constraints limit me to one coat each day. So
faster recoat times are never an issue for me. The only exception is if
it is really cold, in which case I might need to let the finish dry
another day.

These are a world apart from the oil based GF finishes you reference.
And when discussing waterborne finishes, overnight is simply too long.
Take a look at the Varathane site which also says 2 hrs. to recoat:
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/t...terior%20WB%20
Polyurethane.pdf

I haven't used Varathane poly, but I took a look:

"Allow finish to dry minimum of 2 hours before recoating. Lower
temperatures and/or higher humidity may cause slower dry times. Re-coat
only when previous coats have dried clear and feel hard. (Should no
longer feel tacky to the touch.) A powder should develop when lightly
sanded. If any coat has dried more than 24 hours, lightly sand before re-
coating to avoid brush marks."

That's no different than any other poly I have used, other than I "can"
recoat after two hours if I wish. I always wait 24 hours and sand
between coats anyway, nothing unusual there.

You get the idea. Many other manufacturers have their own times for
recoats and their application. One should completely familiarize
themselves with the product they are using before they apply it to
their prized wood working project.

Agreed, that seems like a given. Still, I was simply describing "my"
method of applying finish. It's certainly not the best or only way to do
it, but it works well for me.

Giving advice in an off handed way can ruin projects for the folks
that read these messages and follow their instructions...

And remember to wear these, safety glasses.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I apply the second coat with, now this is key, A "Wooster" brand foam
brush. DO NOT USE a cheap inexpensive foam brush!. I find these
Wooster brand brushes at Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-2...0020/204302391

Hi Leon. I saved this message you posted in January. Apparently, the
Canadian Home Depot stores do not carry the Wooster brand of foam
brush. (not that I could find) Lowes do carry the Wooster brand, but
not the specific foam brush you quoted above.

I guess my question is: What constitutes a good or poor foam brush?
Can you determine a good foam brush by looking at them in the store?
Or, do you have to buy and use various brands to see how well they
work? Barring my finding decent foam brushes, I'll have to go with a
good bristle brush.

On 4/21/2014 5:04 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I apply the second coat with, now this is key, A "Wooster" brand foam
brush. DO NOT USE a cheap inexpensive foam brush!. I find these
Wooster brand brushes at Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-2...0020/204302391

Hi Leon. I saved this message you posted in January. Apparently, the
Canadian Home Depot stores do not carry the Wooster brand of foam
brush. (not that I could find) Lowes do carry the Wooster brand, but
not the specific foam brush you quoted above.

I guess my question is: What constitutes a good or poor foam brush?
Can you determine a good foam brush by looking at them in the store?
Or, do you have to buy and use various brands to see how well they
work? Barring my finding decent foam brushes, I'll have to go with a
good bristle brush.



Typically a better foam brush will have a plastic ferrule and handle
similar to a bristle brush. The better foam brush is typically not
impaled with a wooden dowel. for a handle. It will tend to feel softer
and smoother than a cheap brush, the cells will be smaller. The better
foam brush will not melt in an oil based varnish or paint and will can
be easily cleaned in thinner several times.

Having said all of that, can you order from Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-.../dp/B0019F06DG

On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 07:43:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Having said all of that, can you order from Amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-.../dp/B0019F06DG

Yes. Amazon.ca has them for $6.17. Considering the price gouge, it
would almost be cheaper to order them from amazon.com. But, either
way, I can get them. Thanks.

On 4/21/2014 8:57 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 07:43:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Having said all of that, can you order from Amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/Wooster-Brush-.../dp/B0019F06DG

Yes. Amazon.ca has them for $6.17. Considering the price gouge, it
would almost be cheaper to order them from amazon.com. But, either
way, I can get them. Thanks.


You can almost drive across the border just ont he price difference.
$2,58 here.

I skimmed through the posts pretty quickly, but I don't think anyone mentioned Watco. It's my go-to stain. Wipe it on heavy so it soaks in, wait the directed amount of time and wipe off the excess. Recoat in about 30 minutes. Give it 24 hours to cure and top off with your choice of oil-based top coats.

Larry


On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 8:58:47 AM UTC-6, SBH wrote:
When staining wood, how many coats are normal? Do some stain and nothing

more or do some lacquer over it? I understand it will probably depend on

several variables such as stain color, stain type, sanding prep (final

grit) and wood but is there a general rule for staining?



I'm encountering an slight concern after staining cedar with two coats

though I'm uncertain if it's normal. When viewing the wood directly, it

looks fine. When I lay it down and view it with light reflection, I can

see some shiny spots and dull spots, which I simply think it's just the

way the stain absorbed into the wood based on it's texture/grain. I'm

trying to determine if I should add another coat or lacquer over it and

be done.



What say the experts?



Thank you

On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

Leon, got a question about your gel finishes advice.

When you say to immediately remove the excess finishes, as in a table
top, are you saying to remove just the section you've just applied the
finish to? Or, are you saying to cover the whole table top and then
remove the excess.

Hope I've made my question understandable... I'd guess that much of
your advise depends on the size of the wood surface that one would be
finishing.

On 6/29/2014 9:47 AM, wrote:

When you say to immediately remove the excess finishes, as in a table
top, are you saying to remove just the section you've just applied the
finish to? Or, are you saying to cover the whole table top and then
remove the excess.

Depends upon how big the table top is (and also the temperature and
humidity), but IME with gel stains it is best to do a small area, say an
area no larger than couple of square feet, wipe that down immediately,
then overlap to next same size area.

As your wiping rag gets impregnated a bit, you may be able to stretch
that somewhat, before you change to a new rag, but then it's back to the
smaller area with a new wipe down rag.

As always, YMMV.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 6/29/2014 9:47 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jan 2014 08:36:35 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Gel Finishes tend to be extremely easy to use providing you IMMEDIATELY
remove the excess as indicated in the directions. Typically you do not
need to sand between coats.

Leon, got a question about your gel finishes advice.

When you say to immediately remove the excess finishes, as in a table
top, are you saying to remove just the section you've just applied the
finish to? Or, are you saying to cover the whole table top and then
remove the excess.

Hope I've made my question understandable... I'd guess that much of
your advise depends on the size of the wood surface that one would be
finishing.



It really depends on the brand of gel varnish but IMHO you cannot wipe
it off fast enough.

For instance with Old Masters Gel varnish I wipe on with half of a
folded up Scott's Blue Shop Paper towel. You can use lent free t-shirt
material but the paper towels work just as good if you work fast.
You want to wipe off excess and then buff out before it begins to get tacky.


So for instance I might go as far with 2 square feet before wiping off
the excess with another whole blue paper towel. And get those 2 square
feet covered quickly, be a little liberal when putting it down but not
so much that you are wiping a lot of it off with the first wipe down.
You should put down the two square feet in about 10~15 seconds MAX. Then
immediately buff that out with another clean paper towel. You can
continue to use the same towels for the same processes as long as they
work freely and don't begin sticking to the surface.

The longer you wait the more difficult it is to wipe off the excess and
especially to buff out the surface with third step. If any of the
towels begin to feel draggy you are waiting too long. The trick is to
get the product on the piece and then get it off as quickly as you can.
I know that sounds wrong.... And higher humidity really makes this
necessary.

The tendency is to cover more ground and wait longer but that all adds
up much more drudgery and much much longer curing times between coats.

So wipe down 2 square feet, wipe off excess, and buff out in about 25
seconds total. Than move on. With this brand gel varnish, Old Masters,
speed is your friend.

With the old Bartelys and Lawrence McFaddin gel varnishes you only had
to apply and immediately wipe off the excess. IT IS IMPERATIVE to very
quickly apply wipe off excess and buff out ASAP with Old Masters and
even more so when applying the coats after the initial first coat.

Finally after the surface has dried a few days and feels dry, you can
wrap a piece of printer paper around a block of wood and rub down the
surface to get rid of dust nibs get a very smooth surface.



Damn I could have videoed the whole process faster than typing this out.
LOL.

I am working on a cabinet now and will be applying the finish to the top
this week.. I'll try to remember to get my wife to video the process. ;~)