Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.

Mark

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

I have noticed over the years that most repairs of this sort are more
easily accomplished as a bench top job rather than trying to get at
nuts, washers, springs, clips, etc. inside the casing. Or maybe I just
don't have enough joints in my fingers.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.

Mark

Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified
a Trojan threat.

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

My anitivirus (Symantec Endpoint) did the same thing - which is why I didn't
post the the complete link.
I don't know if the site has recently been hijacked or if it's just a
false-alarm but I've been to it many times in the past few years without any
problems.

Also, while Googling "unisaw bearings" the woodworker forums (lumberjocks,
sawmillcreek, etc) recommended that same link numerous times.

The link below IS safe. It's an archive of the original sawcenter instructional:
http://web.archive.org/web/201201291...com/unisaw.htm

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?

On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?


It will be heavy, but that is relative. I would imagine in the 100lbs
range.

But if you do pull that top off there will probably be shims at each or
some of the corners between the top and the cabinet. You will want to
make sure that they go back in the right place.

On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
....

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--

On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

On 4/6/2013 12:33 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

A) Intended.

B) Is solid, but webbed.

OP can guesstimate as wishes from starting point if wants to get better
estimate by estimating webbing fraction. Starting w/ a 1" thickness
makes the ratioing easier.

--

On 4/6/2013 1:32 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:33 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

A) Intended.

B) Is solid, but webbed.

Yeah, what I meant to indicate was not solid 1" thick.

On 4/6/2013 3:17 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 1:32 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:33 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

A) Intended.

B) Is solid, but webbed.

Yeah, what I meant to indicate was not solid 1" thick.

Actually to be anal about it, using an iron weight calculator, a 1/4"
thick by 27 x 40 would weigh about 70lbs. Add 50% more for the webbing
and you are at about 105 lbs.

Subject

Not to get the cart before the horse, but to properly install the
new bearings, you are going to need an arbor press.

You are going to take the arbor and bearings to the arbor press,
not the other way around.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...
Subject

Not to get the cart before the horse, but to properly install the
new bearings, you are going to need an arbor press.

You are going to take the arbor and bearings to the arbor press,
not the other way around.

What he said. If you are too rough on the cast iron yolk that holds the
bearings, you will break the casting.

DON'T ask me how I know that. Be Very careful with the amount of force you
use.
--
Jim in NC

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 12:26:22 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:


What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?


It will be heavy, but that is relative. I would imagine in the 100lbs
range.

But if you do pull that top off there will probably be shims at each or
some of the corners between the top and the cabinet. You will want to
make sure that they go back in the right place.

With a bright flashlight and reading glasses I found 3 of the 4 large cap screws
do indeed have shims, a couple have multiple shims. I was expecting thin metal
shims but they appear to be some sort of amber phenolic material varying in
thickness.

On Sat, 6 Apr 2013 13:37:55 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

You are going to take the arbor and bearings to the arbor press,
not the other way around.

Lew

Actually I won't. I'll be using a bearing separator/puller to remove the bearing
nearest the blade and I believe I can use it to slide the new bearing home as
well.
I've had a set of these for about 5 yrs, used the small one once, the neighbor
has used them a couple of times. They work great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R25zsdW8Ewo

Here's a photo of a Unisaw arbor shaft with the bearing in place:
http://web.archive.org/liveweb/http:...om/arbor_2.gif

Also, I WILL NOT be changing mine out in the manner this guy did either ;-)
http://lumberjocks.com/Bothus/blog/11219

always nice to learn from other's mistakes...

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 15:35:05 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 3:17 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 1:32 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:33 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

A) Intended.

B) Is solid, but webbed.

Yeah, what I meant to indicate was not solid 1" thick.

Actually to be anal about it, using an iron weight calculator, a 1/4"
thick by 27 x 40 would weigh about 70lbs. Add 50% more for the webbing
and you are at about 105 lbs.

27 x 40 would be the dimension of the top w/both wings attached. I would've
thought that would be closer to 200lbs or more.

I Checked the thickness of my top. Took a 6" C-clamp, screw side underneath, and
snugged it up on a flat area (not on webbing). Wrapped a piece of tape around
where the clamp's male threads entered the female thread clamp portion. Removed
clamp, screwed the thing until the the tape just hit the female portion and
measured the distance between the swivel pad and the stationary thingy and got a
distance of 3/8"!

The top by itself (no wings attached) measures 27 x 20, it's 3/8 thick, the edge
is 1 5/8 wide, the edge and webbing are roughly 5/16 thick.

I'm curious to know what the weight is if you plugged those figures in your
'cast iron calculator'

"Spalted Walt" wrote:


Actually I won't. I'll be using a bearing separator/puller to remove
the bearing
nearest the blade and I believe I can use it to slide the new
bearing home as
well.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You could care less how you remove the old bearings.

The bearing puller shown is basic, but it also is all that is
needed to remove the old bearings.

Attempting to use the tool (bearing puller) to install the
new bearings is pure folly.

You will probably get the new bearings installed, but you are
almost guaranteed to brinnel the new bearings in the process
thus rendering them useless.

An arbor press exists for a reason.

Lew





I've had a set of these for about 5 yrs, used the small one once,
the neighbor
has used them a couple of times. They work great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R25zsdW8Ewo

Here's a photo of a Unisaw arbor shaft with the bearing in place:
http://web.archive.org/liveweb/http:...om/arbor_2.gif

Also, I WILL NOT be changing mine out in the manner this guy did
either ;-)
http://lumberjocks.com/Bothus/blog/11219

always nice to learn from other's mistakes...

On 4/7/2013 8:51 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Spalted Walt" wrote:


Actually I won't. I'll be using a bearing separator/puller to remove
the bearing
nearest the blade and I believe I can use it to slide the new
bearing home as
well.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You could care less how you remove the old bearings.

The bearing puller shown is basic, but it also is all that is
needed to remove the old bearings.

Attempting to use the tool (bearing puller) to install the
new bearings is pure folly.

You will probably get the new bearings installed, but you are
almost guaranteed to brinnel the new bearings in the process
thus rendering them useless.

An arbor press exists for a reason.

Lew





I've had a set of these for about 5 yrs, used the small one once,
the neighbor
has used them a couple of times. They work great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R25zsdW8Ewo

Here's a photo of a Unisaw arbor shaft with the bearing in place:
http://web.archive.org/liveweb/http:...om/arbor_2.gif

Also, I WILL NOT be changing mine out in the manner this guy did
either ;-)
http://lumberjocks.com/Bothus/blog/11219

always nice to learn from other's mistakes...




You could also heat up the bearings by putting them on top of a radiator
and warm them up so they expand then drive them on.

They sell warming machines, but you don't have to buy one just use what
you have. if you can get them heated up to 140 You might be able to
drive them easily.

--
Jeff

Lew Hodgett wrote:



You will probably get the new bearings installed, but you are
almost guaranteed to brinnel the new bearings in the process
thus rendering them useless.


Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't brinelling more common or more likely on
roller bearings than on ball bearings? As I understand it, in order to
cause brinelling, you have to exceed a rated force of the bearing against
the race. This is not likely in seating ball bearings, but it is likely if
improperly installing roller bearings.

An arbor press exists for a reason.


Agreed.

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 7 Apr 2013 17:51:46 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

You could care less how you remove the old bearings.

The bearing puller shown is basic, but it also is all that is
needed to remove the old bearings.

Attempting to use the tool (bearing puller) to install the
new bearings is pure folly.

You will probably get the new bearings installed, but you are
almost guaranteed to brinnel the new bearings in the process
thus rendering them useless.

??? http://dictionary.reference.com/brow...nel?s=t&path=/

Perhaps if you had researched this as much as I have you would realize just how
silly your reply is. No idea how old your are but perhaps with a few more orbits
around the sun you'll come to the realization that there's ALWAYS more than one
way to skin a cat, (or push on a bearing).


An arbor press exists for a reason.

Lew

"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't brinelling more common or more
likely on roller bearings than on ball bearings? As I understand
it, in order to cause brinelling, you have to exceed a rated force
of the bearing against the race. This is not likely in seating ball
bearings, but it is likely if improperly installing roller bearings.

An arbor press exists for a reason.


Agreed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
It is very easy to brinnel a ball bearing if proper installation
techniques
are not followed.

If the installation load to seat the ball bearing gets applied from
the outer
race, across the balls to the inner race, or vice versa, brinnelling
is
almost guaranteed to happen.

The load rating of the ball bearing is for a bearing operating at
rotating
RPM and load, not the static load that happens when the bearing is
improperly installed.

As far as tapered roller bearings are concerned, have been in a couple
of
Timken plants but never got involved in a design application so can't
comment on tapered roller bearings from an engineering stand point;
however, the installation methods are totally different and would not
be subjected to the installation brinelling experienced by ball
bearings.


Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

You could care less how you remove the old bearings.

The bearing puller shown is basic, but it also is all that is
needed to remove the old bearings.

Attempting to use the tool (bearing puller) to install the
new bearings is pure folly.

You will probably get the new bearings installed, but you are
almost guaranteed to brinnel the new bearings in the process
thus rendering them useless.
--------------------------------------------------------
"Spalted Walt" wrote:

??? http://dictionary.reference.com/brow...nel?s=t&path=/
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Has nothing to do with "brinelling" as applied to ball bearings.

SFWIW, "brinelling" is a term unique to the ball bearing industry.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Perhaps if you had researched this as much as I have you would
realize just how
silly your reply is. No idea how old your are but perhaps with a few
more orbits
around the sun you'll come to the realization that there's ALWAYS
more than one
way to skin a cat, (or push on a bearing).
---------------------------------------------------------------------
I got paid real money to design ball bearing systems back in the days
when I worked in the engineering department or a rotating equipment
manufacturer.

What part of ball bearing design and application would you like to
discuss?

As far as age is concerned, I was here before the first A-bomb was
dropped.

What is your excuse?

Lew

On Sun, 7 Apr 2013 21:07:09 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

I got paid real money to design ball bearing systems back in the days
when I worked in the engineering department or a rotating equipment
manufacturer.

What part of ball bearing design and application would you like to
discuss?

Lets discuss the part where I ASSUMED it was common knowledge that the proper
way to press a bearing on a shaft was to apply pressure to the inner race ONLY.
Never the seal and never the outer race.

-- parts diagram posted in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

What I failed to mention was (for the sake of brevity) is the bearing puller,
when flipped over, is flat (not concave) on the back side.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_21569.jpg

I am planning to use this FLAT side of the puller to push Item #143 (steel
spacer) which will be butted up against ONLY the inner race of the bearing Item
#142.

You obviously ASSUMED I would be removing the entire arbor assembly ("You are
going to take the arbor and bearings to the arbor press") when in fact I'm
probably going to remove the shaft only, for a number of reasons.

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

Any input?


Using a "very" straight edge, make a long line on the top of the
saw with the straight edge on both sides of the blade. Makes putting
the top back on much easier.

Removing the bearing with out removing the top is silly to
even attempt.

Here is a complete restoration method detailed in pictures:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/How...%20Unisaw.ashx

for your bearing, go to:

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93322

and then order from: http://www.accuratebearing.com/

You need to order from Lynne using the correct numbers.

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

I should have mentioned that a Unisaw weight is 380 lbs trimmed out.

The top is heavy and should be moved by two people for safety and
common sense reasons.

I would take the arbor assembly to a machine shop for bearing removal
and replacement because they will have the proper tools to do it
correctly.

Screwing up the install will screw up both the bearing
and the arbor shaft.

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 07:51:49 -0700, Pat Barber wrote:

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

Any input?


Using a "very" straight edge, make a long line on the top of the
saw with the straight edge on both sides of the blade. Makes putting
the top back on much easier.

Removing the bearing with out removing the top is silly to
even attempt.

So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed description of
how to do it without removing the top,

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

along with others that have done it quite successfully?


Here is a complete restoration method detailed in pictures:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/How...%20Unisaw.ashx

A complete restoration is not needed on my Unisaw. It looks and runs as if it
were manufactured a year ago (although it's 12 yrs old) and has relatively few
hours on it. I merely noticed the distinct sound of dry clicking bearings while
spinning the blade with the belts removed. From what I've read Delta is
notorious for using low quality Chinese bearings and charging $25 bucks for the
same poor quality replacements.

for your bearing, go to:

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93322


and then order from: http://www.accuratebearing.com/

You need to order from Lynne using the correct numbers.


Sorry, Lynne lost a sale. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow, USPS
priority mail. Oh, and the correct number/size is 6203. At $5.55 a piece with
free shipping, I doubt Lynne could have beat the price on 6203-2NSE Nachi
bearings anyway.

On 4/8/2013 9:05 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:


So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed description of
how to do it without removing the top,

Yes I do... I have completely restored two Delta saws from the ground up
and I am very familiar with the process.

I did a 34-450 Unisaw(1971)
and a (1966) 34-350 12/14" Tilting Arbor Saw.


Sorry, Lynne lost a sale. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow, USPS
priority mail. Oh, and the correct number/size is 6203. At $5.55 a piece with
free shipping, I doubt Lynne could have beat the price on 6203-2NSE Nachi
bearings anyway.

Sounds like a great deal... Do you think the bearing that came in the
saw cost $5.55 each when the saw was built ?

Didn't you wonder why the folks at the Saw Center did it that way ?
Hint: They do it for a living.

"Spalted Walt" wrote:

Lets discuss the part where I ASSUMED it was common knowledge that
the proper
way to press a bearing on a shaft was to apply pressure to the inner
race ONLY.
Never the seal and never the outer race.
-------------------------------------------------------
That gets half the job done.

BTW, most folks know what ASSUMED gets you, perhaps you have
forgotton.

STFWIW, there are more 6203 bearings made than all the other
ball bearings combined.

Your renewal parts price is about right,

Probably could have walked into any bearing supply house and bought
a couple across the counter and saved the freight.

Lew

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 11:01:05 -0700, Pat Barber wrote:

On 4/8/2013 9:05 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:


So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed description of
how to do it without removing the top,

Yes I do... I have completely restored two Delta saws from the ground up
and I am very familiar with the process.

Sorry, but I trust Steve Shanesy's judgement (of Popular Woodworking) on this
more than yours.

Do yourself a favor and watch this informative Delta sponsored video of how the
'Pros' replace arbor bearings at Popular Woodworking and then get back to me on
the importance of "taking the arbor assembly to a machine shop for bearing
removal and replacement because they will have the proper tools to do it
correctly."

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/vi...ration_part_ii

You can skip ahead to about the 4 minute mark if you're pressed for time.

Yes, he has the top removed, because he's doing a COMPLETE restoration on a
vintage 1944 Uni. Pay particular attention to the way he drives the shaft out of
the arbor bracket and puts the new bearing on.


I did a 34-450 Unisaw(1971)
and a (1966) 34-350 12/14" Tilting Arbor Saw.


Sorry, Lynne lost a sale. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow, USPS
priority mail. Oh, and the correct number/size is 6203. At $5.55 a piece with
free shipping, I doubt Lynne could have beat the price on 6203-2NSE Nachi
bearings anyway.

Sounds like a great deal... Do you think the bearing that came in the
saw cost $5.55 each when the saw was built ?

Are you serious? I'd guess Delta paid closer to $.75 ea buying in bulk from
their Chinese bearing importer.

So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed
description of
how to do it without removing the top,
----------------------------------------------------
Pat Barber wrote:

Yes I do... I have completely restored two Delta saws from the ground
up
and I am very familiar with the process.
-------------------------------------------------------
"Spalted Walt" wrote:

Sorry, but I trust Steve Shanesy's judgement (of Popular
Woodworking) on this
more than yours.
------------------------------------------------
Buy them books, they eat the covers.

Good luck.

Lew

On Mon, 8 Apr 2013 11:18:20 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Probably could have walked into any bearing supply house and bought
a couple across the counter and saved the freight.

Lew


Shipping was free and they arrived today!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6203-2NSE-Na...-/130572904784

On Mon, 8 Apr 2013 12:42:59 -0700, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Good luck.

Lew

Thanx

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:53:00 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.



Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified
a Trojan threat.

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

On 4/9/2013 6:55 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:53:00 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.



Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified
a Trojan threat.

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

ESET NOD32 and apparently Norton caught it too. Mine submitted the
threat to the software guys.

On Tue, 09 Apr 2013 08:21:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/9/2013 6:55 AM, Markem wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

ESET NOD32 and apparently Norton caught it too. Mine submitted the
threat to the software guys.

Honestly I do not trust Norton at all, had it seemed to miss virus'
and identify harmless java scripts for an email address as a problem.
Symantec is run by bankers that adds to distrust and dislike of the
company.

But that said the NPE program from Norton has fix two really bad
problems I had in the past.

Hopefully if Saw Center has a problem the ESET people will let them
know.

Mark

On 4/9/2013 2:49 PM, Markem wrote:
On Tue, 09 Apr 2013 08:21:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/9/2013 6:55 AM, Markem wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

ESET NOD32 and apparently Norton caught it too. Mine submitted the
threat to the software guys.

Honestly I do not trust Norton at all, had it seemed to miss virus'
and identify harmless java scripts for an email address as a problem.
Symantec is run by bankers that adds to distrust and dislike of the
company.
I trusted Norton but got tired of it taking control and eating up
resources and then uninstalling some versions was a nightmare. I had a
neighbor that is in the business build my current computer and he puts
ESET on all of them. I will say that talking to them, ESET was an easy
task totally unlike Norton.




But that said the NPE program from Norton has fix two really bad
problems I had in the past.

Hopefully if Saw Center has a problem the ESET people will let them
know.

Mark

In article ,
Markem wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Let me be the first linux user to say, "Gee, I'm glad I don't have to worry
about that."


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Tue, 09 Apr 2013 15:32:23 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I trusted Norton but got tired of it taking control and eating up
resources and then uninstalling some versions was a nightmare.

Completely agree. Tried it for several weeks and then dumped it. Like
you, I got tired of it taking over my system. I'm now using Zone Alarm
and am very satisfied with it.