Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.

Mark

On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.

Mark

Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified
a Trojan threat.

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:53:00 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.



Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified
a Trojan threat.

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

On 4/9/2013 6:55 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:53:00 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:59 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 13:40:35 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

Well you do need to remove the top.

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

That might help.



Hummmm my virus protection prevented me from going there and identified
a Trojan threat.

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

ESET NOD32 and apparently Norton caught it too. Mine submitted the
threat to the software guys.

On Tue, 09 Apr 2013 08:21:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 4/9/2013 6:55 AM, Markem wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Mark

ESET NOD32 and apparently Norton caught it too. Mine submitted the
threat to the software guys.

Honestly I do not trust Norton at all, had it seemed to miss virus'
and identify harmless java scripts for an email address as a problem.
Symantec is run by bankers that adds to distrust and dislike of the
company.

But that said the NPE program from Norton has fix two really bad
problems I had in the past.

Hopefully if Saw Center has a problem the ESET people will let them
know.

Mark

In article ,
Markem wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Let me be the first linux user to say, "Gee, I'm glad I don't have to worry
about that."


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Tue, 9 Apr 2013 21:48:03 +0000 (UTC),
(Larry W) wrote:

In article ,
Markem wrote:

What anti virus are you using? Vipre says tis ok.

Let me be the first linux user to say, "Gee, I'm glad I don't have to worry
about that."

Well with Apple running a version of linux you may have to worry.

Mark

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?

I have noticed over the years that most repairs of this sort are more
easily accomplished as a bench top job rather than trying to get at
nuts, washers, springs, clips, etc. inside the casing. Or maybe I just
don't have enough joints in my fingers.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

My anitivirus (Symantec Endpoint) did the same thing - which is why I didn't
post the the complete link.
I don't know if the site has recently been hijacked or if it's just a
false-alarm but I've been to it many times in the past few years without any
problems.

Also, while Googling "unisaw bearings" the woodworker forums (lumberjocks,
sawmillcreek, etc) recommended that same link numerous times.

The link below IS safe. It's an archive of the original sawcenter instructional:
http://web.archive.org/web/201201291...com/unisaw.htm

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?

On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

This article makes it sound fairly simple without removing the top OR the arbor
bracket, only the arbor shaft:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

The procedure on sawcenter.com has the top removed AND he removes the whole
arbor assembly as well.

My Unisaw is a model 36-844, circa 2001. I changed the belts yesterday, and
while the belts were off, I could hear the sound of dry clicking bearings when I
spun the blade by hand. There is no slop and they still spin freely but I
figured it would be best to go ahead and change them out.

I'll be replacing the originals with 2 quality Nachi bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/6203-2NSE-Bear.../dp/B0045E0E8U

Any input?




I have never ever done this but here is something to think about.

I highly suspect that after removing the arbor and replacing the
bearings that the blade is not going to end up exactly where it was
before the bearing replacement. If you are worried about upsetting
blade alignment by removing the top you may not be making things easier
by not removing the top if the alignment still has to be reset.

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?


It will be heavy, but that is relative. I would imagine in the 100lbs
range.

But if you do pull that top off there will probably be shims at each or
some of the corners between the top and the cabinet. You will want to
make sure that they go back in the right place.

On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 12:26:22 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
On Sat, 06 Apr 2013 09:51:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 4/6/2013 8:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:


What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?


It will be heavy, but that is relative. I would imagine in the 100lbs
range.

But if you do pull that top off there will probably be shims at each or
some of the corners between the top and the cabinet. You will want to
make sure that they go back in the right place.

With a bright flashlight and reading glasses I found 3 of the 4 large cap screws
do indeed have shims, a couple have multiple shims. I was expecting thin metal
shims but they appear to be some sort of amber phenolic material varying in
thickness.

On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
....

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--

On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

On 4/6/2013 12:33 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:29 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/6/2013 12:02 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
...

What I'm actually more worried about is the weight of the top (I'll be
doing
this solo). With the wing removed I believe I can manage it. Any idea
what the
weight of the top is?

About 250 or less...I don't recall exact dimensions but they're roughly
27" deep by 40" including wing iirc. Presuming extension is 10" that's
27x30 and if assume 1" thick on average that's just a little over 200
lb. or so.

--


I think you are way over estimating, the motor and trunion will be a
majority of the weight and the top is not solid, typically it is about
1/4" thick.

A) Intended.

B) Is solid, but webbed.

OP can guesstimate as wishes from starting point if wants to get better
estimate by estimating webbing fraction. Starting w/ a 1" thickness
makes the ratioing easier.

--

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

Any input?


Using a "very" straight edge, make a long line on the top of the
saw with the straight edge on both sides of the blade. Makes putting
the top back on much easier.

Removing the bearing with out removing the top is silly to
even attempt.

Here is a complete restoration method detailed in pictures:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/How...%20Unisaw.ashx

for your bearing, go to:

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93322

and then order from: http://www.accuratebearing.com/

You need to order from Lynne using the correct numbers.

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 07:51:49 -0700, Pat Barber wrote:

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

Any input?


Using a "very" straight edge, make a long line on the top of the
saw with the straight edge on both sides of the blade. Makes putting
the top back on much easier.

Removing the bearing with out removing the top is silly to
even attempt.

So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed description of
how to do it without removing the top,

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticle...bearings.shtml

along with others that have done it quite successfully?


Here is a complete restoration method detailed in pictures:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/How...%20Unisaw.ashx

A complete restoration is not needed on my Unisaw. It looks and runs as if it
were manufactured a year ago (although it's 12 yrs old) and has relatively few
hours on it. I merely noticed the distinct sound of dry clicking bearings while
spinning the blade with the belts removed. From what I've read Delta is
notorious for using low quality Chinese bearings and charging $25 bucks for the
same poor quality replacements.

for your bearing, go to:

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93322


and then order from: http://www.accuratebearing.com/

You need to order from Lynne using the correct numbers.


Sorry, Lynne lost a sale. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow, USPS
priority mail. Oh, and the correct number/size is 6203. At $5.55 a piece with
free shipping, I doubt Lynne could have beat the price on 6203-2NSE Nachi
bearings anyway.

On 4/8/2013 9:05 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:


So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed description of
how to do it without removing the top,

Yes I do... I have completely restored two Delta saws from the ground up
and I am very familiar with the process.

I did a 34-450 Unisaw(1971)
and a (1966) 34-350 12/14" Tilting Arbor Saw.


Sorry, Lynne lost a sale. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow, USPS
priority mail. Oh, and the correct number/size is 6203. At $5.55 a piece with
free shipping, I doubt Lynne could have beat the price on 6203-2NSE Nachi
bearings anyway.

Sounds like a great deal... Do you think the bearing that came in the
saw cost $5.55 each when the saw was built ?

Didn't you wonder why the folks at the Saw Center did it that way ?
Hint: They do it for a living.

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 11:01:05 -0700, Pat Barber wrote:

On 4/8/2013 9:05 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:


So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed description of
how to do it without removing the top,

Yes I do... I have completely restored two Delta saws from the ground up
and I am very familiar with the process.

Sorry, but I trust Steve Shanesy's judgement (of Popular Woodworking) on this
more than yours.

Do yourself a favor and watch this informative Delta sponsored video of how the
'Pros' replace arbor bearings at Popular Woodworking and then get back to me on
the importance of "taking the arbor assembly to a machine shop for bearing
removal and replacement because they will have the proper tools to do it
correctly."

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/vi...ration_part_ii

You can skip ahead to about the 4 minute mark if you're pressed for time.

Yes, he has the top removed, because he's doing a COMPLETE restoration on a
vintage 1944 Uni. Pay particular attention to the way he drives the shaft out of
the arbor bracket and puts the new bearing on.


I did a 34-450 Unisaw(1971)
and a (1966) 34-350 12/14" Tilting Arbor Saw.


Sorry, Lynne lost a sale. I expect them to arrive today or tomorrow, USPS
priority mail. Oh, and the correct number/size is 6203. At $5.55 a piece with
free shipping, I doubt Lynne could have beat the price on 6203-2NSE Nachi
bearings anyway.

Sounds like a great deal... Do you think the bearing that came in the
saw cost $5.55 each when the saw was built ?

Are you serious? I'd guess Delta paid closer to $.75 ea buying in bulk from
their Chinese bearing importer.

So you're saying Jesper Gronvaldt is full of crap in his detailed
description of
how to do it without removing the top,
----------------------------------------------------
Pat Barber wrote:

Yes I do... I have completely restored two Delta saws from the ground
up
and I am very familiar with the process.
-------------------------------------------------------
"Spalted Walt" wrote:

Sorry, but I trust Steve Shanesy's judgement (of Popular
Woodworking) on this
more than yours.
------------------------------------------------
Buy them books, they eat the covers.

Good luck.

Lew

On 4/6/2013 6:40 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:
Has anyone replaced arbor bearings on a Unisaw? If so, did you do it without
removing the table top, or did you remove it first?

I should have mentioned that a Unisaw weight is 380 lbs trimmed out.

The top is heavy and should be moved by two people for safety and
common sense reasons.

I would take the arbor assembly to a machine shop for bearing removal
and replacement because they will have the proper tools to do it
correctly.

Screwing up the install will screw up both the bearing
and the arbor shaft.