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#441
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sizing home jointers and planers?
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes: On 4/17/2012 8:15 AM, Drew Lawson wrote: I have a drywall job on the to-do (to-hire-for) list. Part of the procrastination is knowing that it will get dust everywhere. (The rest is budget and I haven't finished the framing yet.) If I heard someone talking about a drywall job that was surprisingly low in dust, I'd be writing down the contractor's name. http://www.sanderfordrywall.com/ Cool. And if I am choosing between a contractor with something like that and one without, it will certainly have weight in the decision. -- Drew Lawson | Pass the tea and sympathy | for he good old days are dead | Let's raise a toast to those | who best survived the life they led |
#442
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/17/2012 11:48 AM, Leon wrote:
BUT for remodeling it would have to pay for itself in clean up time. Just for the record, the current crew rate here is $35/labor hour (four people $140/hour) for "top to bottom" cleanup after a remodel. Current, and as quoted, for an upcoming cleanup next week on a remodel I'm finishing up as we speak. It wouldn't take an undue amount at that rate for a contractor to pay for one of those in fewer hours of cleanup over a couple of jobs. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
#443
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
"Swingman" wrote... On 4/17/2012 11:48 AM, Leon wrote: BUT for remodeling it would have to pay for itself in clean up time. Just for the record, the current crew rate here is $35/labor hour (four people $140/hour) for "top to bottom" cleanup after a remodel. Current, and as quoted, for an upcoming cleanup next week on a remodel I'm finishing up as we speak. It wouldn't take an undue amount at that rate for a contractor to pay for one of those in fewer hours of cleanup over a couple of jobs. Again, as you pointed out earlier, Festool is a SYSTEM!! The whole package may be kind of expensive. But they have the whole package. The drywall sander itself, which I have never seen one like that before. The abrasives, which as a Festool product is not only quality, but lasts a long time. And, of course, the "dust extractor". It seems to me that most folks who would buy such a system probably already have the dust extractor. Dust free sanding would seem to be a super marketing point. Not that many folks can say that. And having a sander or two could easily create some more biz as well. Perhaps some touch up on the cabinets or whatever. And like real estate agents, who are clueless, contractors have no idea how much stress they create for their clients. Reduce the stress levels, the clients are happier. And since most folks charge by the job, it means you get out of there sooner. Client is happier. Contractor make more money. Seems pretty straightforward to me. And, again, the best form of marketing is referrals. You make a good impression, the client talks about it friends and neighbors. Reducing the time on the job and the dust levels could be considered a legitimate marketing expense. There is more than one way to justify the cost from a business perspective. |
#444
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:
Again, as you pointed out earlier, Festool is a SYSTEM!! And like real estate agents, who are clueless, contractors have no idea how much stress they create for their clients. Reduce the stress levels, the clients are happier. Absolutely ... but not all. I have actually bought many a client a copy of Tracy Kidder's "House" .... And without doubt saved a few marriages by doing so. AAMOF, I always introduce the book in the initial meeting with clients contemplating building a home, or doing a major remodel. -- www.ewoodshop.com |
#445
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/18/2012 11:22 AM, Leon wrote:
And by golly you have cannot see ever using either and have not used either but know that the equipment is bulky and heavy. Here we go again., The lack of experience or knowledge about something does not matter.. Was that in english? -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#446
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
Steve Barker wrote:
On 4/18/2012 11:22 AM, Leon wrote: And by golly you have cannot see ever using either and have not used either but know that the equipment is bulky and heavy. Here we go again., The lack of experience or knowledge about something does not matter.. Was that in english? If you remove the first "have" it reads good--I mean well. |
#447
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 10:48:01 -0500, Steve Barker
the pc is cheaper. Hell, FIVE PC's are probably cheaper. I can't see using either brand. bulky heavy joke of a piece of equipment. Did you by any chance, have a look at one either online or in person? With the belt support, you can use it to do ceilings and higher up walls. Of course, I'm quite sure you'd prefer the aches and pains of hand sanding a ceiling. |
#448
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 15:26:47 -0500, Steve Barker
Here we go again., The lack of experience or knowledge about something does not matter.. Was that in english? I don't know about English, but I do know about displayed ignorance bolstered by a measure of arrogance thrown in for good measure. |
#449
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
Dave writes:
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 15:26:47 -0500, Steve Barker Here we go again., The lack of experience or knowledge about something does not matter.. Was that in english? I don't know about English, but I do know about displayed ignorance bolstered by a measure of arrogance thrown in for good measure. Not just know, but seemingly exemplify. |
#450
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/18/2012 6:36 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 18 Apr 2012 10:48:01 -0500, Steve Barker the pc is cheaper. Hell, FIVE PC's are probably cheaper. I can't see using either brand. bulky heavy joke of a piece of equipment. Did you by any chance, have a look at one either online or in person? With the belt support, you can use it to do ceilings and higher up walls. Of course, I'm quite sure you'd prefer the aches and pains of hand sanding a ceiling. no i don't relish the thought of sanding ceilings. But i do a pretty fair job of taping, and i do knock down on them, and I don't have to do them often. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#451
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/18/2012 4:46 PM, Bill wrote:
Steve Barker wrote: On 4/18/2012 11:22 AM, Leon wrote: And by golly you have cannot see ever using either and have not used either but know that the equipment is bulky and heavy. Here we go again., The lack of experience or knowledge about something does not matter.. Was that in english? If you remove the first "have" it reads good--I mean well. yes, it's amazing how one misplaced word can screw up an entire thought. Thanks. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
#452
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/17/2012 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
On 4/17/2012 9:03 AM, Jack wrote: On 4/16/2012 6:48 PM, Leon wrote: Snip So, while I think Festools are quality, I also think they are over priced. You don't, so ergo an opening for a lively debate. I enjoy the debate or I would be not be in it. Rest assured that if you ever do decide to try out a Festool you have 30 days to take it back if it did not live up to your expectations both in performance and value. I doubt any Festool would not live up to my expectations, just like I doubt the Rolls pu would not be good enough for me:-). The only disparaging remarks I made about them is they are super expensive, and they are, and the green color is god awful. Color is a joke, who cares and it is completely personal and in the eye of the beholder. Oddly I almost took my Festool drill back... I've looked at, and pulled the trigger on the drill, nice piece and you can feel the quality. The start up was different, I noticed that immediately. I would have to get used to the design, but would personally have a hard time justifying the expense. I'm a tool guy though, I love tools and would like to have, (not pay for), any Festool. The vacuum that I pick on is the last Festool I'd like to own. It's a damned vacuum, any half decent vac is good enough for me. NOTHING I do requires a high priced shop vacuum. The sander you use raises my interest, particularly when you say you almost enjoy sanding with it... I recognize hyperbole when I see it, so so far have resisted. I still wish my son would have bought me one for xmas instead of the Ipad. On another note maybe they know something I don't. The drill comes with a Torx/star drive bit and I used that bit on 3" deck screws last week. If I did not already have 2~3 thousand square drive screw already I would immediately switch to Torx exclusively. I like plain old Phillips. I've use Torx and square drive, they work OK, but so does a Phillips. I like Phillips because everyone in the US has a Phillips driver, housewives, school teachers, ballet dancers and wood workers. IMHO Torx is about as much better than square drive as square drive is better than Phillips. I agree with that but the difference to me is not enough to sacrifice common compatibility. The only heads I truly dislike are of course slotted ones of yesteryear. They should be illegal. The chair I'm sitting in now has hex drive screws holding it together. They come loose on occasion and if they were Phillips, I have a driver in my knife, and one in my pencil holder that would tighten them, instead, I have to go to my shop, find the right size hex wrench to do a simple task. When I replaced the power window actuator in the wife's jeep, the door panel came off with 3 screws, 2 you could see were Phillips, the one recessed in a small hole you could not see was a Torx, #25. Had I not known that up front, I would have went nuts trying to get that screw out. (thank you internet) I think the MF's at Chrysler did that ONLY to F*** off guys like me that would rather spend 1/2 hour and $75 fixing it themselves instead of taking it to the dealer and spending $450 to have someone else do it. The actuator itself cost $260 at the dealers, $75 on the net. Exact same piece, I know, I replaced the sucker. I also think the 25 cent plastic gear that breaks over and over again on jeep power windows, and cannot be replaced, is done on purpose. a 50 cent steel or aluminum one would last forever. There are internet web sites dedicated to that specific problem, so they know how f*** up the design is. I called them about as well. One guy even makes an aluminum replacement gear on his cnc machine you can buy for $35 but he says you pretty much need to replace it before it breaks. Have a good day Jack! You too Leon, keep up the good work. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#453
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/19/2012 8:46 AM, Jack wrote:
On 4/17/2012 12:38 PM, Leon wrote: On 4/17/2012 9:03 AM, Jack wrote: On 4/16/2012 6:48 PM, Leon wrote: Snip Snip The sander you use raises my interest, particularly when you say you almost enjoy sanding with it... I recognize hyperbole when I see it, so so far have resisted. I still wish my son would have bought me one for xmas instead of the Ipad. If you are referencing the Rotex, yeah that is a great sander. With the aggressive mode and "Crystal" paper it can just about keep up with a belt sander. or have the finesse of a finish sander in RO mode On another note maybe they know something I don't. The drill comes with a Torx/star drive bit and I used that bit on 3" deck screws last week. If I did not already have 2~3 thousand square drive screw already I would immediately switch to Torx exclusively. I like plain old Phillips. I've use Torx and square drive, they work OK, but so does a Phillips. I like Phillips because everyone in the US has a Phillips driver, housewives, school teachers, ballet dancers and wood workers. Well this is where I might sound selfish but I don't care if some one else cannot remove one of my screws. I hate caming out, iot drives me up the wall. I would never make is as a dry wall installer. LOL BUT!!! McFeeley's and many of the deck screws offer combo head screws which you can use Philips head and square drive in. I do try to buy those when I order. IMHO Torx is about as much better than square drive as square drive is better than Phillips. I agree with that but the difference to me is not enough to sacrifice common compatibility. The only heads I truly dislike are of course slotted ones of yesteryear. They should be illegal. Yeah and they still make those kind of screws. ;~( The chair I'm sitting in now has hex drive screws holding it together. They come loose on occasion and if they were Phillips, I have a driver in my knife, and one in my pencil holder that would tighten them, instead, I have to go to my shop, find the right size hex wrench to do a simple task. Oh noooooooooooo! LOL When I replaced the power window actuator in the wife's jeep, the door panel came off with 3 screws, 2 you could see were Phillips, the one recessed in a small hole you could not see was a Torx, #25. Had I not known that up front, I would have went nuts trying to get that screw out. (thank you internet) I think the MF's at Chrysler did that ONLY to F*** off guys like me that would rather spend 1/2 hour and $75 fixing it themselves instead of taking it to the dealer and spending $450 to have someone else do it. The actuator itself cost $260 at the dealers, $75 on the net. Exact same piece, I know, I replaced the sucker. Strange that there is still a mix being used. I recall the Torx screws being introduced on GM vehicles in 1975.. The Sealed Beam retainer used Torx in place of Philips. The Philips were notorious for rusting so badly that you could hardly get them out. The Torx was a welcome improvement. I also think the 25 cent plastic gear that breaks over and over again on jeep power windows, and cannot be replaced, is done on purpose. a 50 cent steel or aluminum one would last forever. Absolutely! I worked with Gm products for 17 years. Their blower motors, alternators, and AC compressors were a staple item in any dealership. The old Axial compressors that GM used for many many years were rebuildable in the shop. The radial 4 cylinder units were not. There are internet web sites dedicated to that specific problem, so they know how f*** up the design is. I called them about as well. One guy even makes an aluminum replacement gear on his cnc machine you can buy for $35 but he says you pretty much need to replace it before it breaks. |
#454
Posted to rec.woodworking
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sizing home jointers and planers?
On 4/19/2012 8:14 AM, Steve Barker wrote:
On 4/18/2012 4:46 PM, Bill wrote: Steve Barker wrote: On 4/18/2012 11:22 AM, Leon wrote: And by golly you have cannot see ever using either and have not used either but know that the equipment is bulky and heavy. Here we go again., The lack of experience or knowledge about something does not matter.. Was that in english? If you remove the first "have" it reads good--I mean well. yes, it's amazing how one misplaced word can screw up an entire thought. Thanks. Stick around long enough Steve and you will learn my code. LOL |
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