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No
 
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Default planers and jointers

OK - 6" and 8" jointers. Lots of options. I am leaning toward the Yorkcraft
8" jointer and the Delta 22-580 13" planer.
I think this will be a fine setup for what I do.

My question is really one of what is ideal.

The purpose of a jointer is two fold, making the face of a board flat so it
can then be planed to proper thickness, secondly, straightening an edge for
a tight glue up. A planer can not straighten or flatten a board with out a
sled and some finagling.

I see a lot of posts by people that talk about ripping their boards down to
something that will fit on their jointer then planning. You rarely hear of
someone ripping a board so it fits in their planer.

Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common? I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width. Lots of big
iron, I know. Cost? Room? I know there are a couple of combo machines
(Hitachi I think) that do this.

The Yorkcraft page illustrates my point perfectly
http://www.wilkemachinery.com/Yorkcraft.tpl They advertise a 6" and 8"
jointer and a 15" and 20" planer.

Buying S4S lumber doesn't guarantee you flat and if it is flat when you buy
it its quite possible its not when you go to use it.

Shouldn't we all have matching jointer and planer widths? The wider the
better?

Ah, here we go! http://www.olivermachinery.net/machi...p?machine=4270 its
only 1750 lbs!


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Doug Miller
 
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Default

In article , "No" wrote:
Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common?


Probably because 13" and larger *boards* are not common.

I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width.


Disagree. IMO ideally one would have a jointer that matches the width of the
widest boards one typically handles, and a planer that matches the width of
the widest panels one typically glues up. Since most of us have limited space,
and limited budgets, we must compromise; for me, the compromise turns out to
be a 6" jointer and a 13" planer.



--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
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Juergen Hannappel
 
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"No" writes:

[...]

Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common? I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width. Lots of big


In Europe jointer/planer combination machines are common, they have
one cutterhead, used from the top for jointing and from below (with a
table of adjustable height) for thickness planning. They are very
handy in a small workshop.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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"No" wrote in message ...
OK - 6" and 8" jointers. Lots of options. I am leaning toward the
Yorkcraft
8" jointer and the Delta 22-580 13" planer.
I think this will be a fine setup for what I do.


It would be a good setup, IMO.



Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common?


Cost, power requirements, space rquirements. I can buy a 6" jointer for
about $350 but a DJ30 is about $3800, well out of my range.


I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width.


Not needed in real life. Have you been to the wood store? How many 12"
boards do you see compared to 6" and less? Sure wider is better, but not
all that practical.





Buying S4S lumber doesn't guarantee you flat and if it is flat when you
buy
it its quite possible its not when you go to use it.


Correct. That is why w ehave jointers and planers.


Shouldn't we all have matching jointer and planer widths? The wider the
better?


Nice, but not in my budget right now. I can glue up three 4" boards and
then run them through my 13" planer for a perfect flat piece.

Ah, here we go! http://www.olivermachinery.net/machi...p?machine=4270
its
only 1750 lbs!


Pro shops and lottery winners are their customer base. I'm going to order
the optional helical cutter when I hit the Powerball.


  #5   Report Post  
George
 
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Default


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:AC0le.1332$Qd3.1177@trndny01...

I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width.


Not needed in real life. Have you been to the wood store? How many 12"
boards do you see compared to 6" and less? Sure wider is better, but not
all that practical.


Hardwoods are normally harvested at about 14-16" size in the US, because
they aren't laying down as much wood as they used to, generally have picked
up enough damage up top to let in various fungi and such to start hollowing
the heart and weakening the tree. They're like old men, full of
infirmities.

They are then sawed for grade, which is a different criterion - greater bf
of clear stock - than through-and-through, which, due to grading standards,
would have more lower-grade boards.

If you have a local sawyer, you can go for width/thicknesses you want, and
cut either side of knots. I had a lot of 5/4 maple done to fit quarto and
octavo size books, and those knots at the back of the shelf bother no one.




  #6   Report Post  
John McCoy
 
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"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
news:AC0le.1332$Qd3.1177@trndny01:


"No" wrote in message
...

Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common?


Cost, power requirements, space rquirements. I can buy a 6" jointer
for about $350 but a DJ30 is about $3800, well out of my range.


Note that to make a wider planer, all one has to do is make the
cutterhead wider - not a very complicated or expensive thing to
do. To make a jointer wider, you have to make the tables wider
too - which makes them heavier, which means you've got to make
all the supporting structure heavier and stronger too. Hence
the very rapid increase in cost as jointers get bigger.

I will say that having an 8" as compared to a 6" jointer is
a very worthwhile thing. I see enough clean boards in the
7-8" range to be annoyed at having to trim an inch or so off
them, but it's pretty rare to see a board over 8" that doesn't
have some flaw that required ripping it narrower.

John
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George wrote:
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:AC0le.1332$Qd3.1177@trndny01...

I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width.


Not needed in real life. Have you been to the wood store? How many 12"
boards do you see compared to 6" and less? Sure wider is better, but not
all that practical.


Hardwoods are normally harvested at about 14-16" size in the US, because
they aren't laying down as much wood as they used to,


Actually, as trees get older they put down wood at a faster rate,
especially once they break through the canopy. According to the NFS
the giant Sequoias are among the fastest growing organisms on Earth,
the largest can add a ton of wood per year, even though their trunks
only increase in diameter (radial growth) by a tiny fraction of
an inch per year.

They aren't necessarily putting it down where it'll make good lumber
though, the wood in the crown is all reaction wood.

Here are two good articles that illustrate the situation:

http://www.daviesand.com/Papers/Economics/The_Myth/

Of course sequoias are softwoods and hardwoods are different from
softwoods but ht ebasic idea that they grow in proportion to the
energy and CO2 that they absorb, which in turn are both proportionate
to foliage, is the same.

(the one below is in Adobe pdf format)
http://eesc.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat/EC1183.pdf

generally have picked
up enough damage up top to let in various fungi and such to start hollowing
the heart and weakening the tree.


Yes, a lot of large fast growing trees are rotting away at the core
faster than they're growing. The result is a big tree with no useful
wood.

I'm sure also that timing depends a lot on considerations of making
room for the next generation of trees if you want sustainable
production.

--

FF

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James \Cubby\ Culbertson
 
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Default

You may also add the Grizzly G0586 to your possibilities. A bit more
expensive
(shipping...not sure what the Yorkcraft ships for) but it seems to have some
very
nice features (handwheels!, 4 cutters, etc...) for the price:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=g0586

I'm trying to justify how I can buy this thing given I already have a 6"
jointer. I got
the Sunhill 6" version about a year or so ago. Been happy with it but an
8" would be better!
Cheers,
cc

"No" wrote in message ...
OK - 6" and 8" jointers. Lots of options. I am leaning toward the
Yorkcraft
8" jointer and the Delta 22-580 13" planer.
I think this will be a fine setup for what I do.

My question is really one of what is ideal.

The purpose of a jointer is two fold, making the face of a board flat so
it
can then be planed to proper thickness, secondly, straightening an edge
for
a tight glue up. A planer can not straighten or flatten a board with out a
sled and some finagling.

I see a lot of posts by people that talk about ripping their boards down
to
something that will fit on their jointer then planning. You rarely hear of
someone ripping a board so it fits in their planer.

Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common? I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width. Lots of big
iron, I know. Cost? Room? I know there are a couple of combo machines
(Hitachi I think) that do this.

The Yorkcraft page illustrates my point perfectly
http://www.wilkemachinery.com/Yorkcraft.tpl They advertise a 6" and 8"
jointer and a 15" and 20" planer.

Buying S4S lumber doesn't guarantee you flat and if it is flat when you
buy
it its quite possible its not when you go to use it.

Shouldn't we all have matching jointer and planer widths? The wider the
better?

Ah, here we go! http://www.olivermachinery.net/machi...p?machine=4270
its
only 1750 lbs!




  #9   Report Post  
George
 
Posts: n/a
Default


wrote in message
oups.com...

Hardwoods are normally harvested at about 14-16" size in the US, because
they aren't laying down as much wood as they used to,


Actually, as trees get older they put down wood at a faster rate,
especially once they break through the canopy. According to the NFS
the giant Sequoias are among the fastest growing organisms on Earth,
the largest can add a ton of wood per year, even though their trunks
only increase in diameter (radial growth) by a tiny fraction of
an inch per year.


WOW! Apples really are different than oranges? Who'd have thought.


  #10   Report Post  
No
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks James, for your reply, I ranted a bit in reply to your elec post in
alt.home.repair. Probably not as useful as your reply to my post. Thanks
again.


"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...
You may also add the Grizzly G0586 to your possibilities. A bit more
expensive
(shipping...not sure what the Yorkcraft ships for) but it seems to have
some very
nice features (handwheels!, 4 cutters, etc...) for the price:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=g0586

I'm trying to justify how I can buy this thing given I already have a 6"
jointer. I got
the Sunhill 6" version about a year or so ago. Been happy with it but an
8" would be better!
Cheers,
cc

"No" wrote in message
...
OK - 6" and 8" jointers. Lots of options. I am leaning toward the
Yorkcraft
8" jointer and the Delta 22-580 13" planer.
I think this will be a fine setup for what I do.

My question is really one of what is ideal.

The purpose of a jointer is two fold, making the face of a board flat so
it
can then be planed to proper thickness, secondly, straightening an edge
for
a tight glue up. A planer can not straighten or flatten a board with out
a
sled and some finagling.

I see a lot of posts by people that talk about ripping their boards down
to
something that will fit on their jointer then planning. You rarely hear
of
someone ripping a board so it fits in their planer.

Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common? I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width. Lots of big
iron, I know. Cost? Room? I know there are a couple of combo machines
(Hitachi I think) that do this.

The Yorkcraft page illustrates my point perfectly
http://www.wilkemachinery.com/Yorkcraft.tpl They advertise a 6" and 8"
jointer and a 15" and 20" planer.

Buying S4S lumber doesn't guarantee you flat and if it is flat when you
buy
it its quite possible its not when you go to use it.

Shouldn't we all have matching jointer and planer widths? The wider the
better?

Ah, here we go! http://www.olivermachinery.net/machi...p?machine=4270
its
only 1750 lbs!








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James \Cubby\ Culbertson
 
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Ahh no worries. I know the passion can really come out when we get into a
discussion regarding politics, beauracracy, etc.....

Seriously though, it looks like this jointer could be a pretty good deal
given it's features and Grizzly is pretty well known for their exceptional
service. I've got their G0555 bandsaw and 1023SL tablesaw and am happy with
both.
Cheers,
cc

"No" wrote in message ...
Thanks James, for your reply, I ranted a bit in reply to your elec post in
alt.home.repair. Probably not as useful as your reply to my post. Thanks
again.



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