I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!

wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems
that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the
planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as
large?

So that you can get a board of reasonable width to a given thickness and
still have the sides parallel. You can skinny one down on a joiner but the
sides are unlikely to wind up parallel.

Joiners are best for getting a straight *edge*; consequently, width of the
machine is of less importance. You can get wide joiners
too...12"...16""...all you have to do is spring for the big bucks.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

In article
14062658.1524.1333782531697.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@vbyj26,
wrote:

I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all
of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12".
What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

I'm just thinking that if I edge glue two 6" wide boards together, I'd
still be able to run them through my 12" planer.

Joe

On Sat, 7 Apr 2012 00:08:51 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!


I'd really like to have one triple the width. OK, you just jointed
your 6" boards, planed them to the thickness you want, then glued them
together. Maybe it is not quite perfect. You put it through the
planer and now it is perfect!

Maybe you did not use the jointer at all. You bought a 1 x 12 or 1 x
8 pine board at the lumber yard. Your project would be perfect if the
two pieces in the center were 5/8" thick. Hey look, if will go right
through my planer!

My planer is 13". Coincidently, the most used cutting board in my
house is 12 7/8" wide, made from glued up pieces of maple.

Another reason is cost. The tool manufacturers can build 12" planers
at a much more reasonable price than a 12" joiner, so they do.

Not...

Jointers come in 4,6,8,and 12 inch models. The most common hobbiest is
the 6" If you can afford it 8" is better.

I bought mine at an estate sale, so I saved a bunch. You use it for
more than edging. You face joint one face, before sending it to the
planer. The jointer will flatten one face, the planer will make the
other face parallel to that flattened face.

The idea of a wider planer is to take glue ups and clean them up. since
most hobbyist units are only 12-13 inches you work in groups of glue ups.

On 4/7/2012 6:44 AM, dadiOH wrote:
wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems
that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the
planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as
large?

So that you can get a board of reasonable width to a given thickness and
still have the sides parallel. You can skinny one down on a joiner but the
sides are unlikely to wind up parallel.

Joiners are best for getting a straight *edge*; consequently, width of the
machine is of less importance. You can get wide joiners
too...12"...16""...all you have to do is spring for the big bucks.

On Apr 7, 2:08*am, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. *It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". *What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... *help a rookie out?

Thanks!

Theoretically jointers and planers serve two different purposes - but
not entirely.

- Primary purpose for a jointer is to edge plane boards to provide a
good straight glue-able edge - thus "jointer". But Jointers are also
used to plane one surface to obtain a flat face before it us run
through a planer (if you have one)

- Planers surface plane and provide parallel surfaces. They are also
very useful for smoothing boards that have been edge-glued.

The thing you need to keep in mind is when making large flat surfaces
for table tops, book case tops etc., where you are using lumber
instead of hardwood ply, you need to keep boards narrower. I often
cut nice, 10-12" wide boards into 5-6" strips so I can reverse the
growth rings and glue them back together. A nice, wide board looks
pretty until it starts to warp and cup - or even split because it is
restrained from cupping. Cutting into smaller strips and reversing
the growth rings slows this down. So, with that in mind, a 6" jointer
can surface plane one side of a ripped board and provide a joint-able
edge; then the 12-1/2 planer can surface plane the glued boards.

You can pay any price for "portable' surface planer but don't skimp
too much. I see some in the big box stores that don't even have
infeed and outfeed tables. Most of these are Ryobi equipment which is
a shame. Ryobi came out, during the 1990's with a couple of the best
suitcase planers ever built. their 10" and 12-1/4" inch machines
became almost legendary for quality, smoothness and durability. I
owned the latter for 15 years when I turned it over to the son and
upgraded in size. Apparently Ryobi adopted the Craftsman business
model because it has been down hill since the late 90's. Shop
carefully and use on-line reviews before you end up buying a bargain
that will frustrate you for as long as you own the machine.

RonB

RonB wrote:

Apparently Ryobi adopted the Craftsman business
model because it has been down hill since the late 90's. Shop
carefully and use on-line reviews before you end up buying a bargain
that will frustrate you for as long as you own the machine.


Unfortunately, Ryobi (which used to be pretty decent stuff at one time), has
become the universal junk line - across all of their product set. Their
power equipment is pure junk these days.

--

-Mike-

On 4/7/2012 2:08 AM, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It
seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the
planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

You're limiting your looking too much, then...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/450000
http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/490000

for a sample selection of what is easily available at reasonable price
points...obviously higher capacity machines are higher cost.

These, of course, don't even begin to cover the "real" industrial-sized
machines.

The advantage of a larger jointer is twofold--the surface width is the
obvious one to easily surface larger stock in preparation for the planer
but the second is the longer bed length. There's actually a third in
that the extra mass alone is beneficial in any piece of gear as well.

There's a tendency here to minimize the value of a jointer to simply the
single operation of jointing edges--this is a great under-utilization of
the machine. It's also capable of rabbeting, tapering, as well as the
obvious. If you can find the room and have the budget, I recommend at
least 8". If room and cost are real constraints, consider one of the
newer combo machines that are 12-13" planer/jointer-in-one at reasonable
cost. FWW had a review of several just within the last couple of issues.

--

On Sat, 7 Apr 2012 00:08:51 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Um, maybe because a jointer does the thin faces and the planer does
the wide, flat faces? That said, a wider jointer can be used to face
lumber, too, though it doesn't do quite as nice a job.

--
Life is an escalator:
You can move forward or backward;
you can not remain still.
-- Patricia Russell-McCloud

On 4/7/2012 3:08 AM, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!

The easiest solution is to buy a combination jointer/planer so that their
widths will always match. The equipment is usually cheaper than two
separate machines since the frame, motor, drive, and cutter head are shared
between functions. The downside is that there is a changeover time to go
between functions but if you streamline your workflow the overhead is
minimized. I've been using a Robland 12" combination for 13 years now and
have no problems (although there have been times when a 16" or 18" machine
would have been good to have - never satisfied I guess).

I think there are a lot of people who buy their lumber S2S or better at a
store and then work with those boards. Assuming that you select only the
good straight stock before you plunk down the big bucks, you already have
"jointed" and planed stock.
If that is the case for you, then you could expect that the board is pretty
flat and not twisted. Then you don't need a wide jointer. But you would
still need a wider planer if reducing the thickness of an already good board
for some particular purpose.

On the other hand, if you work with a lot of rough sawn lumber, as I do,
you are working with twisted, cupped and bowed stuff real often. I could
really use a jointer wider than my 6 inch in this case. But come people
have told me that, even then,
they simply cut boards down to fit the jointer and glue up for wider stock.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------

On 4/7/2012 2:08 AM, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!

And oddly I have no jointer and a 15" planer. I did have a jointer and
never used it.

Anyway, to answer your question. A jointer helps to initially true up
one side and one edge of a board. Call it 6 inches wide. Now glue up
that board to another of the same size, you need twice the capacity.

The sizes you mentioned are common sizes but certainly not the only
sizes. For a stationary jointer the 6" is pretty much entry level in
size and 12" for a planer is pretty small with 13"~15" being the norm.

And for what it is worth the combination jointer/planer is beginning to
be more common place. It is typically less expensive than buying a
stationary jointer and stationary planer and takes up half the room.

http://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-...889764&sr=8-25

On Sun, 08 Apr 2012 07:59:14 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
And for what it is worth the combination jointer/planer is beginning to
be more common place. It is typically less expensive than buying a
stationary jointer and stationary planer and takes up half the room.
http://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-...889764&sr=8-25

No, no no. We have to go with quality here.
http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/produ...1--410-mm.html

On 4/7/2012 8:04 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Not...

Not?????

Jointers come in 4,6,8,and 12 inch models. The most common hobbiest is
the 6" If you can afford it 8" is better.


A slight amount of research on many manufacturers web sites reveals,

16" and 17" jointers

http://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-...889764&sr=8-25

http://www.lagunatools.com/jointers/jointer-signature

or a 20 incher

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php...mart&Itemid=35

http://www.format-4usa.com/products_...Fjointers.html

On 4/7/2012 9:54 PM, Pete S wrote:
I think there are a lot of people who buy their lumber S2S or better at
a store and then work with those boards. Assuming that you select only
the good straight stock before you plunk down the big bucks, you already
have "jointed" and planed stock.

Where are you getting s2s that has been jointed??? Granted you did
mention "or better" but you need to go up to s3s to get one edge
jointed. between s2s and s3s is s2s1e which is typically flat and
parallel on both faces and one edge is ripped straight which still does
not give you a glue edge.

On 4/8/2012 8:08 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/7/2012 8:04 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Not...

Not?????

Jointers come in 4,6,8,and 12 inch models. The most common hobbiest is
the 6" If you can afford it 8" is better.


A slight amount of research on many manufacturers web sites reveals,

16" and 17" jointers

....


or a 20 incher

....

or a 24...

http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/jointers/heavy.htm



--

On 4/8/2012 8:06 AM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 08 Apr 2012 07:59:14 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
And for what it is worth the combination jointer/planer is beginning to
be more common place. It is typically less expensive than buying a
stationary jointer and stationary planer and takes up half the room.
http://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-...889764&sr=8-25

No, no no. We have to go with quality here.
http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/produ...1--410-mm.html

Maybe you were looking for...

http://www.olivermachinery.net/index.php?node=machines&type_id=3&model=5240



--

On 4/7/2012 9:54 PM, Pete S wrote:
I think there are a lot of people who buy their lumber S2S or better at a store
and then work with those boards. Assuming that you select only the good
straight stock before you plunk down the big bucks, you already have "jointed"
and planed stock.
If that is the case for you, then you could expect that the board is pretty
flat and not twisted. Then you don't need a wide jointer. But you would still
need a wider planer if reducing the thickness of an already good board for some
particular purpose.

On the other hand, if you work with a lot of rough sawn lumber, as I do, you
are working with twisted, cupped and bowed stuff real often. I could really use
a jointer wider than my 6 inch in this case. But come people have told me that,
even then,
they simply cut boards down to fit the jointer and glue up for wider stock.

FYI/FWIW, if you're going to rip wide boards that are bowed or twisted down to
a width that's manageable on your jointer, you'd better be doing it on a
bandsaw and not a tablesaw. Ripping a twisted board on a tablesaw is dangerous
as hell.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

That hammer is awesome. I like the doweling and mortising capability in
one unit. Wooo hooo.

On 4/8/2012 9:06 AM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 08 Apr 2012 07:59:14 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
And for what it is worth the combination jointer/planer is beginning to
be more common place. It is typically less expensive than buying a
stationary jointer and stationary planer and takes up half the room.
http://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-...889764&sr=8-25

No, no no. We have to go with quality here.
http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/produ...1--410-mm.html

On Apr 7, 9:54*pm, "Pete S" wrote:
I think there are a lot of people who buy their lumber S2S or better at a
store and then work with those boards. *Assuming that you select only the
good straight *stock before you plunk down the big bucks, *you already have
"jointed" and planed stock.
If that is the case for you, then you could expect that the board is pretty
flat and not twisted. *Then you don't need a wide jointer. *But you would
still need a wider planer if reducing the thickness of an already good board
for some particular purpose.

* On the other hand, if you work with *a lot of rough sawn lumber, as I do,
you are working with twisted, cupped and bowed stuff real often. *I could
really use a *jointer wider than my 6 inch in this case. *But come people
have told me that, even then,
they simply cut boards down to fit the jointer and glue up for wider stock.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------

I you are buying finished hardwood at the big box stores, and you buy
much of it, you can easily justify a planer and jointer. I was
finishing a project some time ago and needed to run to HD to buy a
piece of red oak. It was a nice clear piece of 1x6, 8'. Then I made
the mistake of figuring the price per board foot - $7.50. That
stings when you buy most of your Oak under $2.

RonB

On Sun, 08 Apr 2012 10:50:11 -0400, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com
That hammer is awesome. I like the doweling and mortising capability in
one unit. Wooo hooo.
http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/produ...1--410-mm.html

There's only one problem. As time goes by machines are getting better
and more capable, but the quality of available wood is diminishing
right in front of our eyes. Of course, living in the centre of a city
will do that to you.

When I win the lottery and can afford all these great new tools, I'll
be moving to some house on a pristine lake with a substantial stand of
harvestable trees around me. Or at the very least, a decent lumber
yard within traveling distance.

On 4/8/2012 9:21 AM, dpb wrote:
On 4/8/2012 8:08 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/7/2012 8:04 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Not...

Not?????

Jointers come in 4,6,8,and 12 inch models. The most common hobbiest is
the 6" If you can afford it 8" is better.


A slight amount of research on many manufacturers web sites reveals,

16" and 17" jointers

....


or a 20 incher

....

or a 24...

http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/jointers/heavy.htm
....

I've seen (I believe it was Oliver but been too long ago for absolute
certain and OWWM doesn't have one altho that's certainly not conclusive)
a 30". 36" is largest I've ever heard of in actual configuration we
think of as a jointer; there are yet larger "facers" but other than
stumbling on the one Oliver below I didn't look further for examples.

So, after a little looking

30"

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=3156

An Oliver 30" facer
http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=2688


and everybody's absolute need, the 36

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoind...l.aspx?id=7479

--

No doubt that you are right about the lumber.
Even man made lumber (ply) is diminishing in quality.

And the price is getting up there for all, hardwoods, softwoods, and ply.

Even Veneer is outrageous in price and sometimes quality.

But it is the cards we are dealt. When you win the lottery and get that
home, give me a call, I'll take care of that forrest for you. You'll be
too rich to want to play with wood.

8)

Happy Easter.



On 4/8/2012 2:18 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 08 Apr 2012 10:50:11 -0400, tiredofspamnospam.nospam.com
That hammer is awesome. I like the doweling and mortising capability in
one unit. Wooo hooo.
http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/produ...1--410-mm.html

There's only one problem. As time goes by machines are getting better
and more capable, but the quality of available wood is diminishing
right in front of our eyes. Of course, living in the centre of a city
will do that to you.

When I win the lottery and can afford all these great new tools, I'll
be moving to some house on a pristine lake with a substantial stand of
harvestable trees around me. Or at the very least, a decent lumber
yard within traveling distance.

tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

No doubt that you are right about the lumber.
Even man made lumber (ply) is diminishing in quality.

And the price is getting up there for all, hardwoods, softwoods, and
ply.

Even Veneer is outrageous in price and sometimes quality.

But it is the cards we are dealt. When you win the lottery and get
that home, give me a call, I'll take care of that forrest for you.
You'll be too rich to want to play with wood.

8)

Happy Easter.


I'm giving up on ply. At least on the nicer face veneers that they
charge more for. I figure for only a little more I can cut my own
veneers from thick stock and get not only something I can sand, but a
material where tear out is much less likely.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 08 Apr 2012 19:30:34 GMT, Puckdropper
I'm giving up on ply. At least on the nicer face veneers that they
charge more for. I figure for only a little more I can cut my own
veneers from thick stock and get not only something I can sand, but a
material where tear out is much less likely.

Important that you mentioned that. I still buy VC, veneered ply, but
I'm noticed the last several years how the most important layer, the
top veneer layer is getting thinner and thinner. Even with the initial
sanding, one has to be careful not to sand through it.

I'm almost at the stage where I'm considering buying just a regular
sheet of ply and facing it with a separate layer of veneer that I've
bought separately.

On 4/7/2012 10:44 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
RonB wrote:

Apparently Ryobi adopted the Craftsman business
model because it has been down hill since the late 90's. Shop
carefully and use on-line reviews before you end up buying a bargain
that will frustrate you for as long as you own the machine.


Unfortunately, Ryobi (which used to be pretty decent stuff at one time), has
become the universal junk line - across all of their product set. Their
power equipment is pure junk these days.



Ryobi is made by the same Chinese company as Ridgid power tools and
Milwaukee power tools are.

Apparently The same company that makes Ryobi tools also makes Craftsman
and Mastercraft, however I was always under the Impression that
Craftsman were made by the most part, by Skil and Craftsman Professional
by Bosch.

Skil and Ryobi power tools were owned by the same company in the 1990s
but that is no longer the case.

On 4/8/2012 10:33 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
On 4/7/2012 10:44 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
RonB wrote:

Apparently Ryobi adopted the Craftsman business
model because it has been down hill since the late 90's. Shop
carefully and use on-line reviews before you end up buying a bargain
that will frustrate you for as long as you own the machine.


Unfortunately, Ryobi (which used to be pretty decent stuff at one
time), has
become the universal junk line - across all of their product set. Their
power equipment is pure junk these days.



Ryobi is made by the same Chinese company as Ridgid power tools and
Milwaukee power tools are.

Perhaps more accurately, "Some" of those tools are made by a Chinese
tool company.


Apparently The same company that makes Ryobi tools also makes Craftsman
and Mastercraft, however I was always under the Impression that
Craftsman were made by the most part, by Skil and Craftsman Professional
by Bosch.

Ryobi has made some of the Craftsman power tools for decades. Along
with DeWalt, Bosch, B&D, etc.


Skil and Ryobi power tools were owned by the same company in the 1990s
but that is no longer the case.

Skil has been owned by Bosch since the mid 90's.

Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s. John Deere stripped
the company of all quality, then sold the business. I had known someone
who worked for Ryobi back then. The complaint I heard from him was how
JD was just destroying the quality, and making them a useless brand.

I never owned a BT3000 but I know that it had a following.

On 4/9/2012 7:38 AM, Leon wrote:
On 4/8/2012 10:33 PM, Duesenberg wrote:
On 4/7/2012 10:44 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
RonB wrote:

Apparently Ryobi adopted the Craftsman business
model because it has been down hill since the late 90's. Shop
carefully and use on-line reviews before you end up buying a bargain
that will frustrate you for as long as you own the machine.


Unfortunately, Ryobi (which used to be pretty decent stuff at one
time), has
become the universal junk line - across all of their product set. Their
power equipment is pure junk these days.



Ryobi is made by the same Chinese company as Ridgid power tools and
Milwaukee power tools are.

Perhaps more accurately, "Some" of those tools are made by a Chinese
tool company.


Apparently The same company that makes Ryobi tools also makes Craftsman
and Mastercraft, however I was always under the Impression that
Craftsman were made by the most part, by Skil and Craftsman Professional
by Bosch.

Ryobi has made some of the Craftsman power tools for decades. Along with
DeWalt, Bosch, B&D, etc.


Skil and Ryobi power tools were owned by the same company in the 1990s
but that is no longer the case.

Skil has been owned by Bosch since the mid 90's.

On 4/9/2012 9:14 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s. John Deere stripped
the company of all quality, then sold the business. I had known someone
who worked for Ryobi back then. The complaint I heard from him was how
JD was just destroying the quality, and making them a useless brand.

MBAthink ... ramped up during WWII, took hold in the sixties, perverted
since to the ridiculous extreme of
bottom-line-fixation-damn-all-else-****-the-consumer-while-I-get-mine
mentality.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

The wider planer lets you shave the thickness of larger panels. Note
that it does not neccessarily "flatten" panels. If the panel goes in
cupped/bowed, it will come out cupped/bowed. The 13" benchtop planer is
common for the average hobbyist woodworker (like myself) who cannot (or
doesn't need to) spend the money on larger stand-alone machines.
Though if cost isn't a consideration, bigger is better.
The Performax sanders are another way to surface a large panels though I
haven't actually seen one in action.

On 04/07/2012 02:08 AM, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!

On 4/9/2012 10:27 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/9/2012 9:14 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s. John Deere stripped
the company of all quality, then sold the business. I had known someone
who worked for Ryobi back then. The complaint I heard from him was how
JD was just destroying the quality, and making them a useless brand.

MBAthink ... ramped up during WWII, took hold in the sixties, perverted
since to the ridiculous extreme of
bottom-line-fixation-damn-all-else-****-the-consumer-while-I-get-mine
mentality.


IIRC developed by the government and in use today by the government, in
all branches.

On 4/9/2012 9:14 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s....

No, don't think so.

Maybe you're thinking of the Homelite homeowner outdoor tools. Deere
did own Homelite for a while and divested themselves of it (to TTI) but
afaik never Ryobi.

Deere & Co acquires Textron Inc-Homelite Division from Textron Inc Aug 29, 1994


TechTronics Industries Co acquires Deere & Co-Homelite Consumer from
Deere & Co TechTronics Industries Co acquires Deere & Co-Homelite
Consumer from Deere & Co Nov 16, 2001

http://www.alacrastore.com/mergers-acquisitions/Deere_Company-1004803

for detailed listing of Deere acquisitions/dispositions from early 80s
forward.

--

On Mon, 09 Apr 2012 10:27:22 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 4/9/2012 9:14 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s. John Deere stripped
the company of all quality, then sold the business. I had known someone
who worked for Ryobi back then. The complaint I heard from him was how
JD was just destroying the quality, and making them a useless brand.

MBAthink ... ramped up during WWII, took hold in the sixties, perverted
since to the ridiculous extreme of
bottom-line-fixation-damn-all-else-****-the-consumer-while-I-get-mine
mentality.

I've owned several Ryobi tools over the years and have always had good
luck with them. The nicads didn't last quite as long as I'd like, but
that's common to pricy tools, too.

I also have the BTS-10 portable table saw. It's gutless enough to
prevent dangerous kickbacks, a plus in my book. g 1.5hp cuts just
fine, though. The fence is rather, well, wimpy, so I ad lib a bit.

I recently bought the large kit for less than an equivalent drill
motor from the top brands. $125 got me a drill motor, recip saw, circ
saw, flashlight, two batteries, charger, and nylon kit bag to carry
them in. The 18v circ saw outlasts my old 14.4v saw by a 3:1 margin,
but is still too short. That's the only negative thing I can say about
them. The drill motors have dual bubble levels on them, so you can
drill precisely vertically or horizontally. It's a GREAT idea, one
which I don't see on other brands. http://tinyurl.com/7am9bla

I think I first started buying Ryobis in 1999, though. Perhaps I
waited out the JD trashing and got good tools.

No, they're not Festools, but they have been great values, which is
what I look for. I'm not made of money, unlike you rich Texicans.

--
Live Simply. Speak Kindly. Care Deeply. Love Generously.
-- anon

On 4/9/2012 11:27 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/9/2012 9:14 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s. John Deere stripped
the company of all quality, then sold the business. I had known someone
who worked for Ryobi back then. The complaint I heard from him was how
JD was just destroying the quality, and making them a useless brand.

MBAthink ... ramped up during WWII, took hold in the sixties, perverted
since to the ridiculous extreme of
bottom-line-fixation-damn-all-else-****-the-consumer-while-I-get-mine
mentality.



And in the most recent decades--don't worry about the share-holders or
the tax payers while you're at at!

The idea of a wider planer is to take glue ups and clean them up. since
most hobbyist units are only 12-13 inches you work in groups of glue ups.

Well... you really shouldn't run a glue up through a planer. The glue will play hell with your blades. No glue, no poaint, just wood ro the blades die. Also, if you have any spring or cup in your glue up the planer might crack the glue joint.

Get a drum sander or wide belt sander if you want to flatten glue ups.

On 4/9/2012 11:41 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 09 Apr 2012 10:27:22 -0500, wrote:

On 4/9/2012 9:14 AM, tiredofspam wrote:
Ryobi had been owned by John Deere during the 90s. John Deere stripped
the company of all quality, then sold the business. I had known someone
who worked for Ryobi back then. The complaint I heard from him was how
JD was just destroying the quality, and making them a useless brand.

MBAthink ... ramped up during WWII, took hold in the sixties, perverted
since to the ridiculous extreme of
bottom-line-fixation-damn-all-else-****-the-consumer-while-I-get-mine
mentality.

I've owned several Ryobi tools over the years and have always had good
luck with them. The nicads didn't last quite as long as I'd like, but
that's common to pricy tools, too.

I also have the BTS-10 portable table saw. It's gutless enough to
prevent dangerous kickbacks, a plus in my book.g

You reallllly don't believe that do you???






I recently bought the large kit for less than an equivalent drill
motor from the top brands. $125 got me a drill motor, recip saw, circ
saw, flashlight, two batteries, charger, and nylon kit bag to carry
them in. The 18v circ saw outlasts my old 14.4v saw by a 3:1 margin,
but is still too short. That's the only negative thing I can say about
them. The drill motors have dual bubble levels on them, so you can
drill precisely vertically or horizontally. It's a GREAT idea, one
which I don't see on other brands. http://tinyurl.com/7am9bla

I think I first started buying Ryobis in 1999, though. Perhaps I
waited out the JD trashing and got good tools.

Actually the good Ryobi tools were built in the 80's, IMHO about
equivalent to Makita back then and mostly sold by tool dealers.


No, they're not Festools, but they have been great values, which is
what I look for. I'm not made of money, unlike you rich Texicans.

--
Live Simply. Speak Kindly. Care Deeply. Love Generously.
-- anon

On 4/9/2012 12:05 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
The idea of a wider planer is to take glue ups and clean them up. since
most hobbyist units are only 12-13 inches you work in groups of glue ups.

Well... you really shouldn't run a glue up through a planer. The
glue will play hell with your blades. No glue, no poaint, just wood
ro the blades die. Also, if you have any spring or cup in your glue
up theplaner might crack the glue joint.

Get a drum sander or wide belt sander if you want to flatten glue ups.

Disagree on both counts. As long as it is huge globs of a very hard
glue, the glue isn't as hard as most woods and won't do any significant
damage to a planer (or jointer) knife.

And, as has been demonstrated in many tests, a good glueline joint is
stronger than the surrounding wood; if there's that severe a cup and
there's a failure, odds are very high it will be the wood that fails,
not the glueline.

Not that having a wide belt sander isn't a good thing but certainly it's
not a verboten to plane down a glue up.

--

On 4/7/2012 12:08 AM, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!

I don't think you have been looking at "commercial grade" equipment if
that's all you have seen.

A 6" jointer is about the smallest you can buy.

A 12" planer is also quite small by commercial standards.

Here are a few examples:

http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/jointers

http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/planers

The size depends on the stock you work with and
the amount of money you have.

The 6" jointer is fine for smaller, shorter stock,
while the 8" is for wider and longer stock. The 8"
jointer normally has a MUCH longer table,ex:
6" jointer 46"
8" jointer 76"

The planers also follow similar patterns.

If you buy s4s lumber, a big jointer is not needed
but if you buy rough cut, the need is there for the
jointer and the planer.

The smaller "lunch box" planer(12") is fine for many shops
and is MUCH cheaper to get into. The next step up is a
15" and that's when price makes a real difference. You
are paying for bigger, much more powerful motors and heavier
equipment. a standard 15" planer is "about" 340 lbs, while the
12" is 76 lbs.

On 4/9/2012 1:06 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 4/7/2012 12:08 AM, wrote:
I've been looking at jointers and planers for a home shop. It seems
that all of the commercially available jointers are 6" and the planers
are about 12". What's the point in having a planer twice as large?

I must be missing something obvious... help a rookie out?

Thanks!

I don't think you have been looking at "commercial grade" equipment if
that's all you have seen.

A 6" jointer is about the smallest you can buy.
....

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/95

A nicely built little 4" jointer. Dad had one; brother has it now. As
noted, the disadvantage of the smaller ones is the shorter bed lengths;
"bigger is better" is certainly true w/ jointers, especially.

The only thing I disliked w/ the Delta 4" is that doing the cabinets for
folks used some hard maple for the facings and the lightness of the
cutterhead made it chatter more than one would like if tried to face a
2"+ piece; just not enough mass. It did fine on jointing glue edges
even on the maple.

--

Yes...that was a nice little jointer 50 years ago.

Over at owwm.org, I see many restorations of those
jointers.

That is 37-290 Deluxe I believe.

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/95

A nicely built little 4" jointer. Dad had one; brother has it now. As
noted, the disadvantage of the smaller ones is the shorter bed lengths;
"bigger is better" is certainly true w/ jointers, especially.

The only thing I disliked w/ the Delta 4" is that doing the cabinets for
folks used some hard maple for the facings and the lightness of the
cutterhead made it chatter more than one would like if tried to face a
2"+ piece; just not enough mass. It did fine on jointing glue edges even
on the maple.

--